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Raising a glass to Hungary's Pecs

If I had a pound for every time someone asked 'Budapest?' when I said I was going to Hungary for a long weekend, I wouldn't necessarily be a rich man but I'd be able to at least afford a decent night out on the town. But there is more to Hungary than the capital city, and certainly more to the clichés that sometimes occupy ones mind before visiting a country.

Pecs is 's fifth largest city, and the unofficial capital of the south-west. Currently gearing itself towards becoming a European Capital of Culture in 2010, the locals are rightly keen to show off their historic town, and it is indeed a pleasant place in which to spend a long weekend or mini-break.
The main square of Pecs is where most descriptions or tours of the town begin, and it's a real picture postcard affair, with the colourfully-patterned buildings offering a distinctive flavour. The most noticeable landmark in the square is the imposing Mosque of Gazi Kaszim Pasa, which became a Roman Catholic church following the retreat of the Ottoman Turks, and is well worth popping in for a visit.
The city's glorious four-towered cathedral dates back to the 11th century, but has been destroyed and subsequently rebuilt on numerous occasions. The cathedral is open for the public every day, although only for a few hours on Sunday afternoons. It stages regular popular organ concerts throughout the year, with schedules available on request.
The square outside the cathedral is a popular place for groups of tourists to gather, and you could visit the Bishop's Palace next door or the nearby World Heritage listed site, where recent excavations have uncovered a number of early Christian tombs.
As far as museums go, the variation took me by surprise and you could easily spend many hours exploring them. The highlight for art-lovers is likely to be the Victor Vasarely Museum, showing many of the works of the renowned artist, who was famed for his use of optical illusions.
Also on Kaptalan Street, unsurprisingly known as the 'Street of Museums', is the Zsolnay Museum, which houses a wonderful display of porcelain.
Wine-lovers will certainly feel at home in the area, with theVillany-Siklos Wine Route featuring a number of fabulous wine cellars. Known by wine buffs throughout Europe and beyond, the region has produced some outstanding wines and it is possible to explore a number of fine cellars on foot in the Villany area.
We visited the Malatinszky-Kuria vinery, where we were given a tour before tasting a selection of wines. I don't claim to be the world's greatest connoisseur but I did particularly enjoy the Chardonnay, which had a sumptuous flavour.
Another undoubted treat for wine-lovers is a visit to the Polgar Winery, with its extensive corridors and cellars, home to literally thousands of bottles of wines, many stored by Hungary's rich and famous. You wouldn't want to be stuck there on your own in the dark hours however, such is the spooky nature of the cellars. The Winery also boasts a sizeable restaurant, although it should be noted that it is a fair drive from the centre of Pecs.
Probably my personal highlight of the trip came when we visited the tiny village of Zengovarkony, a short drive from Pecs, where we were first given a delightful welcome at the Egg Museum, which celebrates the ancient Hungarian tradition of decorated eggs. The tradition, mainly an Easter one, reflects the centuries-old belief that eggs are the spring of life. We were lucky to see a local lady (in fact, the mayor's wife) using wax to paint some.
We visited the Cottage Museum next door, where I was hypnotised by a local lady weaving in the workshop there – it looked like tremendously hard work, and she joked that it was better than training at the gym.
While in the village you can also visit the Corn Treasure House, which displays over 450 corn objects, and I also recommend that you see the old Calvinist church.
Food is varied, and I certainly enjoyed some splendid soups during my time in Hungary, while meat eaters should have no reason to complain. Beer is hearteningly cheap, priced at little over £1 a pint, and you won't be surprised to hear you can try a wide range of very enjoyable wines.
The nightlife is pleasant rather than manic in Pecs, and there were still people filling the bars in the quaint streets around the main square into the wee small hours at the weekend.
During my trip, I stayed in the Hotel Kikelet, which enjoys a prime location in the Mecsek Mountains above Pecs. In truth, I've stayed in hotels with more character but the rooms are very comfortable and offer pleasant views of the town.
If I'm being honest, and despite the fact Pecs University and its 35,000 students can give the town a relatively youthful feel, I would say the area lends itself more comfortably to more mature visitors.
Road infrastructure has improved in recent years, but driving to Budapest should still take around three hours, while an intercity train ride will take slightly longer than two and a half hours.
Pecs is geographically well placed for you to incorporate a break into a longer holiday, with Croatia within driving distance and beautiful Slovenia further afield.
If it seems like I'm trying to diminish Pecs and its surrounding area by recommending staying here as a stopover or for a short break, that couldn't be further from the truth. For fine wines and vineyards, a variety of historical buildings and interesting museums, and a guaranteed warm welcome, a few days in this corner of south-west Hungary won't disappoint.
* For more info, call the Hungarian National Tourist Office on 0207 823 0411 or see www.gotohungary.co.uk
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