Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Greece / Aegean Islands
 |  | Travel Reviews : Aegean Islands |
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| | | | The view from the ramparts
in the shade of a mulberry tree, ripe red berries dropping into our breakfast of Greek yogurt and honey, we gazed out across a sparkling Aegean to the island of Alonissos, its rocky peaks dominating the horizon.
Closer to hand, verdant mountains dropped sheer to the sea and waves crashed against dazzling white cliffs far below.
This was the stunning view from our holiday home, Pyrgos, a small castle on a remote headland on the isle of Skopelos.
The stone watchtower, with its crenellated ramparts and stained glass windows, looks timeless, standing in isolation on the tip of a promontory at the end of a rutted track snaking round the hillside.
In fact, it's just 10 years old, built by local artists Spiros and Vassiliki Kosmas who let it out until they are ready to retire there.
Vassiliki has decorated the main ceiling with figures from Greek mythology and created cave-style paintings on the walls of our bedroom, hewn out of the hillside.
She had just finished painting dolphins on the bottom of the beautiful pool near the cliff edge while around the grounds Spiros had created strange sculptures from rock, metal and brick.
A scramble down the cliff path brought us to our own private swimming area where we could dive off the rocks and sunbathe on the huge flat boulders. It was difficult to drag ourselves away to explore the island but it was worth the effort.
With no airport, Skopelos is largely untouched by tourism. Its mountainous interior is covered in pine forests and olive groves.
Along the coast are sheltered bays, deep gorges and sleepy fishing villages.
There are a few asphalt roads and dirt tracks which zigzag across the island. We could drive miles without seeing another car, the only hold-ups caused by herds of goats.
Travel guide: Aegean Islands
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| | | | Surrounded by lemon trees
The rocky coves of the northern tip of the island, reached by tortuous tracks, are entirely deserted and even in June the more popular beaches dotted along the west coast were never crowded. My favourite was Kastani, a sandy bay surrounded by wooded hillsides.
Further down the coast, the village of Agnontas is renowned for its seafood restaurants.
At one waterside taverna Pavlos invited us into his kitchen to choose from a huge selection of fish caught that morning.
For local specialities, head for Perivoli, a short walk from the main square in Skopelos Town.
Here, in Reginos' orchard surrounded by lemon trees, we tucked into mussels in basil and tomato, beef with smoked aubergine puree and a delicious pork dish with apples and prunes in a wine sauce.
The town itself is archetypal Greece - a cluster of pretty white-washed houses cascade down the hillside around the bay, their wooden balconies smothered in geraniums and bougainvillea.
Heather Parsons, an English woman who runs walking tours of the island, led us past the tavernas and craft shops along the harbour and up through a maze of stone-paved alleyways.
'There are more than 100 churches here,' she told us as we paused for breath in front of the tiny chapel of Agios Michaelis, 'but this one is really special.'
She pointed to massive slabs of pink rock which formed the cornerstones.
'These are sarcophagi from the Minoan or Neolithic age,' she said. 'How they came to be incorporated into a 17th-century church nobody knows.'
With few archeological remains on the island, this is likely to remain a mystery.
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| | | | A spectacular setting
The main site at Sendoukia was an hour's drive to the central highlands where a graveyard dating back thousands of years was uncovered last century.
A trail of red paint daubed on the stony path marked our way through the pine trees. Bright green lizards scuttled past us as we emerged on to a high plateau and looked down on the coast curling round two sides of the island.
Three tombs had been chiselled out of the rock. With such a spectacular setting it must have been a burial site for kings.
You'll need a head for heights to visit the monastry at Agios Ioannis. Perched on a pinnacle of rock just offshore, the only way up to it is by more than 100 steps cut into the sheer rock face.
I can't imagine how they built it, using only nets and pulleys.
The medieval monasteries near Skopelos Town nestle amid the cypress trees on the hillsides.
If you ring the doorbell the monks will invite you inside to show you their ornate chapels, the gold altar screens adorned with icons.
By contrast we found the little whitewashed monastery of Taxiarchon deserted. It is tucked away in a deep valley, a 40-minute hike along a rough cliff path.
A cloud of blue butterflies settled on the wild flowers as we unlatched the gate leading into an overgrown garden.
The air was hot and still, the only sound the whirr of cicadas. The building looked abandoned but oil lamps and candles were stacked in one of the earth-walled rooms and a fresh garland of flowers hung in the little chapel.
It seemed an ideal hideaway and was, in fact, used as a refuge for British soldiers during the Second World War.
Vangelis, a sprightly 90-year-old former mayor of Skopelos, told me how he had helped them escape.
'We smuggled them from the mainland and hid them there until we could get them on a ship to neutral Turkey,' he explained.
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| | | | Vine-covered trellis
Vangelis was arrested by the occupying Italian forces but was released after the local people marched on their headquarters.
'I fled to the island of Jura until things quietened down,' he recalled. The following day, we sailed to Jura ourselves.
Vassilis, a marine biologist as well as our skipper on the schooner Oceanis, told us how the barren spot was part of a marine park created 10 years ago to help protect the monk seal.
'We have the largest group in the Mediterranean,' he told us, 'but you are unlikely to see them as they are very shy and live in caves.'
The monk seals may have been elusive but Vassilis spotted dolphins only minutes into our cruise.
Standing on the bow he called to them with strange shrill cries while his little black mongrel, Odyssey, paced back and forth scanning the waves in expectation.
The dolphins seemed to respond to Vassilis's call and before long we were leaning over the prow watching them dart in front of the ship.
Most islands in the park are uninhabited but we dropped anchor in a horseshoe bay to climb up to the monastery on Kyra Panagia.
'It was used by the monks of Mount Athos,' Vassilis explained. 'Not even female animals were allowed there, so they raised animals on Kyra Panagia. The last monk stayed for 15 years before it closed in 1984.'
It was a quiet, peaceful spot. A vine-covered trellis shaded the courtyard and beside the chapel and library the monks had a storeroom for wine and their own olive press.
I could see why the last monk was reluctant to leave and after only a week on Skopelos I felt much the same.
As we sailed back to the nearby island of Skiathos for our flight home, I took a last look at Pyrgos and promised to come back, if only for the view.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Pyrgos can be booked through http://www.holiday-rentals.com.
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| | Destination Guide : Aegean Islands |
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| | | Green, lush and forested |  | Why go on holiday to the Aegean Islands?
There are seven major islands in the north-eastern group: Samos, Chios, Ikaria, Lesbos, Limnos, Samothraki and Thassos.
Huge distances separate them, so island-hopping is not as easy as it is within the Cyclades and Dodecanese. Most of these islands are large and have very distinctive characters.
They are all mountainous, green, lush and forested — quite different from the Ionian chain. Because of their isolation, the islands attract travellers looking for space, solitude and sandy beaches.
How much does it cost?
There can be a big difference in costs between the seasons but as a rough guide, a seven-day summer packages in a hotel or villa start at about £360. Expect to pay £180 for a return flight to Athens. Connecting flights from Athens to the various islands cost about £40. Ferries are slower but much cheaper. All prices may vary.
When should I go?
Summer is the most popular time to visit the islands, and also the most expensive. There are significant savings if you go in spring or autumn. Temperatures range from 12C in January to 32C in August.
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| | | Water sports galore |  | What should I do when I'm there?
The lake-like surface of the Aegean provides perfect conditions for windsurfing, which is the most popular water sport in Greece.
Although snorkelling is encouraged and well worthwhile anywhere along the coast, scuba diving is strictly forbidden, unless under the auspices of a diving school. This is so underwater antiquities are protected from pilferers.
Trekking and sightseeing makes a change from lying on the beaches. Yachting is a great way to reach otherwise inaccessible coves and tiny islands.
What are the largest islands like?
Samos is lush and humid with mountains skirted by oak-forested hills, though some of the high forested areas are prone to forest fires.
On the island of Samothraki, Mt Fengari (1,611m) looms over valleys of gnarled oak, forests of olive trees and glades where waterfalls plunge into deep, icy pools.
Lesbos has become a Mecca for walkers attracted by its mountainous countryside and well-marked trekking trails.
Limnos boasts long sandy beaches, undulating countryside and fine villages.
Chios was the home island of many of Greece's rich shipowners. Ikaria is so lush that you might mistake it for the Caribbean. Thassos has lovely beaches, campsites and many archaeological remains.
What about the smaller islands?
Only Fourni itself, of the Fourni islands, has tourist accommodation and little else, making it a haven for those who want to get away from it all.
Psara and Inousses islands have few places to stay and only a few restaurants, but both have good beaches.
Agios Efstrantios or Ai-Stratis as it is known, is the most isolated island in the Aegean, but sadly its picturesque main village was destroyed in an earthquake in 1968. However the island is serene and traffic-free, with good beaches and a surprisingly busy nightlife.
What about ancient sights?
In Lesbos's main town Mytilini, see the Byzantine castle and domed church, icons in the Byzantine Museum and three other museums of note.
Limnos's capital, Myrina, is full of character and has an archaeological museum full of artefacts found on the island. Lovely medieval villages dominate the south of Chios — the loveliest is Pyrgi.
Samothraki's Sanctuary of the Great Gods is the most evocative ancient site in the Med. Thassos has an ancient amphitheatre perched high above the capital, Limenas. In Ikaria, visit the radioactive hot springs and the lovely village of Kampos.
On Samos at Pythagorio (birthplace of Pythagoras) visit the Evpalinos Tunnel, the Moni Panagias Spilianis, the Sacred Way of Hereon and the museum.
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| | | Delicious fresh fish | | Where's good for nightlife?
On Thassos, head for the resorts Limenaria or the capital Limenas (also called Thassos Town); on Samothraki, Loutra is the main resort area but Kamariotissa is best for nightlife; Limnos boasts the five-star mega resort of Porto Myrina Palace on Kaspakas Bay and also bars and tavernas in Myrina.
On Lesbos, Skala Eresou is popular with admirers of the ancient love poet Sappho, and Mytilini and Mithymna have a good scene.
On Chios, the port of Chios Town has most choice; on Ikaria, Armenistis is the biggest resort. Samos Town is busy with bars along the waterfront; Pythagorio has a central square with bars and eateries.
What's the food like?
Your visit to Greece will not be complete if you don't sample some of the local food.
Specialities include tzatziki, a cucumber and yoghurt dip; Greek salad of feta cheese, olives, peppers, onions and tomatoes with oregano and olive oil; and dolmades, stuffed vine leaves.
Fresh fish dishes are also popular on the islands and vegetarians are often surprised at how easy it is to find good food like stuffed courgettes, peppers and tomatoes, and aubergine dip. Greek wines can be very good: retsina is commonly to be had straight out of a barrel; also try domestica and Kefalonian whites.
What should I buy?
Samos produces excellent wines and exports orchids. Lesbos produces Greece's finest olive oil. On Thassos, pine honey with walnuts, olive oil and herbs are good buys.
On Limnos, buy nuts, honey and clothing in Myrina. On Lesbos, visit Agiasos to buy anything from furniture to pottery from the local artisans.
What is there for children to do?
The islands are not as family-orientated as big resorts in Spain or Portugal, or the biggest Greek islands, but if your children enjoy the sun, sea and sand they'll be enchanted.
If they are at the age for kiddies' or teen clubs, then check with your tour operator, but most hotels are small and don't cater specifically for kids in this way.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London W1S 2DJ. Tel 020 7495 9300.
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| | Fact File : Aegean Islands |
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| | | Aegean Islands | | Did you know?
Inspired by the ancient erotic love poetry of Sappho, the island of Lesbos has become a mecca for lesbians from around the world.
Language
Greek.
Visas
None needed for UK citizens.
Getting there
Lesbos has air links from Athens airport. There are also numerous ferry and hydrofoil routes between the island chain and the Greek mainland. You can fly from across the UK to Athens international and head for the Port of Piraeus. Or fly to Kavala and take a ferry from there or nearby Keramoti for Thassos.
Flying time from London
Four hours.
Getting around
There are daily ferries between Lesbos, Ikaria and Samos and Chios. The island has a good bus service, boats, cars and bikes for hire and taxis.
Currency
Euro.
Costs
Roll of film £3, moderate restaurant meal £6, bottle of beer 80p, night in a moderate hotel £10-£30, litre of petrol 50p, four-mile taxi ride £3. All prices will vary.
Weather
Summers are long and hot — average 32C/87F, so it's best to go then. During the mild but wet winters (15C/59F), many tourist facilities shut down, especially on the islands.
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
00 30 for Greece followed by the Lesbos island code 2251.
Voltage
220V. You need an adaptor if you are using electrical goods from the UK.
Opening hours
Banks open 8am-2pm Monday to Thursday and 8am-1.20pm on Friday. Some banks in large cities open from 3.30pm-6.30pm and on Saturday mornings.
Health — before you go
No jabs required. You are eligible for healthcare in Greece but it is wise to buy additional travel insurance before you go.
Health — when you are there
Tap water is generally safe to drink. Be wary of the sun and pack an insect repellent. Residents of EU countries are eligible to receive free emergency medical care.
Warnings
Codeine is banned in Greece so make sure you don't unwittingly smuggle any in, in the form of headache pills! Don't offend locals by sunbathing topless or nude in an undesignated area. Remember that small villages are often quite conservative in their attitudes — behave accordingly when visiting churches, etc.
Emergency
For police, ambulance or fire, call 166. The British Embassy is at Ploutarhou 1, Athens 106 75. Tel 01 723 6211.
Customs
Toilets are usually western-style, but some are still squatting-style and neither will manage to flush away loo paper — put it in the bin next to the loo or watch as the bathroom floods with unmentionables.
Pets
Greece is part of the Pet Travel Scheme. Pets that are eligible to leave the UK and return need health checks and vaccinations before and after their trip. See your vet for details.
Tipping
Service is included on restaurant bills but it's customary to leave a small tip; the same for taxis.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London, W1R 0DJ. Tel. 020 7495 9300.
Did you know?
Inspired by the ancient erotic love poetry of Sappho, the island of Lesbos has become a Mecca for lesbians from around the world.
Language
Greek.
Visas
None needed for UK citizens.
Getting there
Samos, Chios, Lesbos, Limnos and Ikaria all have air links to Athens airports. There are numerous ferry and hydrofoil routes between the island chain and the Greek mainland. You can fly from across the UK to Athens international and head for the Port of Piraeus. Or fly to Kavala and take a ferry from there or nearby Keramoti for Thassos.
Flying time from London
Four hours.
Getting around
There are daily ferries between Ikaria and Samos, Chios and Lesbos. Ferries operate less frequently between Lesbos and Limnos and Chios and Samos. Lesbos is also connected by air to both Limnos and Chios. The larger islands have bus services, tourist bus services, boats for hire and taxis. Also expect to do a lot of walking.
Currency
Euro.
Costs
Roll of film £3, moderate restaurant meal £6, bottle of beer 80p, night in a moderate hotel £10-£30, litre of petrol 50p, four-mile taxi ride £3. All prices will vary.
Weather
Summers are long and hot — average 32C/87F, so it's best to go then. During the mild but wet winters (15C/59F), many tourist facilities shut down, especially on the islands.
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
00 30 for Greece followed by island code: Samos 0273, Ikaria and Fourni 0275, Chios 0271, Psara 0274, Lesbos 0251, Limnos 0254, Samothraki 0551, Thassos 0593
Voltage
220V. You need an adaptor if you are using electrical goods from the UK.
Opening hours
Banks open 8am-2pm Monday to Thursday and 8am-1.20pm on Friday. Some banks in large cities open from 3.30pm-6.30pm and on Saturday mornings.
Health — before you go
No jabs required. You are eligible for healthcare in Greece but it is wise to buy additional travel insurance before you go.
Health — when you are there
Tap water is generally safe to drink. Be wary of the sun and pack an insect repellent. Residents of EU countries are eligible to receive free emergency medical care.
Warnings
Codeine is banned in Greece so make sure you don't unwittingly smuggle any in, in the form of headache pills! Don't offend locals by sunbathing topless or nude in an undesignated area. Remember that small villages are often quite conservative in their attitudes — behave accordingly when visiting churches, etc.
Emergency
For police, ambulance or fire, call 166. The British Embassy is at Ploutarhou 1, Athens 106 75. Tel. 01 723 6211.
Customs
Toilets are usually western-style, but some are still squatting-style and neither will manage to flush away loo paper — put it in the bin next to the loo or watch as the bathroom floods with unmentionables.
Pets
Greece is part of the Pet Travel Scheme. Pets that are eligible to leave the UK and return need health checks and vaccinations before and after their trip. See your vet for details.
Tipping
Service is included on restaurant bills but it's customary to leave a small tip; the same for taxis.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London, W1R 0DJ. Tel. 020 7495 9300.
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| | Available rental properties in Aegean Islands |
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| |  | | AMETHYST, village house, Lemnos
AMETHYST is a one bedroom village house, completely renovated to very high standards. Views sweep down to the sea, and across this peaceful, gentle island. It is the sister of two bedroomed ISATIS.
|  | | ISATIS , village house, Lemnos
Isatis, the sister of the smaller Amethyst is an old stone village house, completely renovated to very high standards. Views sweep down to the sea, and across this peaceful, gentle island
|  | | The White House, Villa Averoff, Evia
19th century historic property on the Greek island of Evia. It consists of a traditional house with wonderful gardens and swimming pool.
|  | | The Red House, Villa Averoff, Evia
19th century historic property on the Greek island of Evia. It consists of a traditional house with wonderful gardens and swimming pool.
|  | | Excellent 3 bed Semi detached in Karystos...
Beautiful 3 bedroom semi-detached villa in the island of Evia, with spectacular sea and mountain views.
Ground Floor: Living room,Kitchen (open plan)
First Floor: Bedrooms,
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Holiday Rentals in Aegean Islands |
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