Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Ireland / County Donegal
 |  | Travel Reviews : County Donegal |
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| | | | Review by Rebecca Mavin from Oakdale, NSW Australia & Voorburg, The Netherlands
A must see to all those that visit Ireland! The beaches around Carrigart were like home (Australia).
A celtic cocktail that leaves you reeling
From the Daily Mail
There's no word of a lie in it: the Irish like to talk. They also go out of their way to be helpful to strangers - which means asking for directions can be an entertaining business.
In Londonderry, I asked two men on a corner where to find a particular pub. One took me by the arm and led me into the road to point out the way; the other followed, offering advice. By now we could all see the pub, 30 yards or so away, but that didn't deter my acquaintances.
'Just down there on the left. You'll find a pedestrianised crossing opposite. It should take you, oh, the best part of a couple of minutes if you don't rush.' I was left with the feeling, not for the first time, that the one thing you will never lack in Ireland is friendship - and especially not in Londonderry.
This compact city is intriguing - and blessed with a beautiful location. Standing on the opposite bank of the River Foyle, you look across to a miniature walled city, with deep green hills behind and the silvery sweep of the river before you. Londonderry sits on a low bluff, the perfect position for a trading settlement, and, indeed, the site has been continuously inhabited since the 6th century.
Inside the 17th-century stone walls, the city is small enough that you can see clearly from one arched gate across to another. Walking the mile-long ramparts provides wonderful views over the town and river; and inside the walls lie several small gems. St Columba's Long Tower Roman Catholic church houses two exquisite paintings by Raphael. The Protestant St Columb's Cathedral dates from 1633 and is perfectly preserved.
Some 60% of the city's population is under 25, a fact reflected in the buzzy pubs, cafes and restaurants. In the Metro Bar, a noisy lunchtime crowd was demolishing pints of Harp and Guinness. From the name, I had expected trendy minimalism, but it was a solid, old-fashioned local with a mixed clientele. The bar staff were young and cheery: middle-aged housewives sat laughing together.
An old boy with a newspaper was studying the racing form and watching the bar TV as his horses came in - usually unplaced. 'I've been sitting here since God was a boy,' he said, as I commiserated. 'I'll never learn.'
That night, Oyster's restaurant, with its wooden floor and uncluttered decor, turned out not to have oysters on its menu ('except on special occasions') but it did have the best Tom Yam soup I have tasted outside Thailand, and superb pan-seared salmon.
Travel guide: County Donegal
A celtic cocktail that leaves you reeling
From the Daily Mail
There's no word of a lie in it: the Irish like to talk. They also go out of their way to be helpful to strangers - which means asking for directions can be an entertaining business.
In Londonderry, I asked two men on a corner where to find a particular pub. One took me by the arm and led me into the road to point out the way; the other followed, offering advice. By now we could all see the pub, 30 yards or so away, but that didn't deter my acquaintances.
'Just down there on the left. You'll find a pedestrianised crossing opposite. It should take you, oh, the best part of a couple of minutes if you don't rush.' I was left with the feeling, not for the first time, that the one thing you will never lack in Ireland is friendship - and especially not in Londonderry.
This compact city is intriguing - and blessed with a beautiful location. Standing on the opposite bank of the River Foyle, you look across to a miniature walled city, with deep green hills behind and the silvery sweep of the river before you. Londonderry sits on a low bluff, the perfect position for a trading settlement, and, indeed, the site has been continuously inhabited since the 6th century.
Inside the 17th-century stone walls, the city is small enough that you can see clearly from one arched gate across to another. Walking the mile-long ramparts provides wonderful views over the town and river; and inside the walls lie several small gems. St Columba's Long Tower Roman Catholic church houses two exquisite paintings by Raphael. The Protestant St Columb's Cathedral dates from 1633 and is perfectly preserved.
Some 60% of the city's population is under 25, a fact reflected in the buzzy pubs, cafes and restaurants. In the Metro Bar, a noisy lunchtime crowd was demolishing pints of Harp and Guinness. From the name, I had expected trendy minimalism, but it was a solid, old-fashioned local with a mixed clientele. The bar staff were young and cheery: middle-aged housewives sat laughing together.
An old boy with a newspaper was studying the racing form and watching the bar TV as his horses came in - usually unplaced. 'I've been sitting here since God was a boy,' he said, as I commiserated. 'I'll never learn.'
That night, Oyster's restaurant, with its wooden floor and uncluttered decor, turned out not to have oysters on its menu ('except on special occasions') but it did have the best Tom Yam soup I have tasted outside Thailand, and superb pan-seared salmon.
Travel guide: County Donegal
Donegal at a canter
'Where's the sun?' Shaun asked, not looking up from the map. He had barely looked up from it since we set off the day before.
Shame really, considering the Celtic landscapes drifting past at the pace of an Irish hunter.
I had appointed him Map Monitor, married as I am to a human compass who can be turned around in the dark in a blindfold and still point north.
So it was disconcerting to be asked for the sun.
'To our left?' I suggested wildly. 'Behind us,' said Serena, our eldest. 'In the sky,' Ben thought.
'The sun isn't ever behind us,' Alexander pointed out, rather in the way that he explains why the plughole drains anti-clockwise in the northern hemisphere.
Sadly, further explanations were absorbed by the wind-tossed sighs of the forest.
Riding is a great midwife to conversation when there are two of you but five horses walk just far enough apart, and make just enough noise, to render verbal communication infuriating.
'What did you say?' we had spent much of the holiday saying, at an uncomfortable sort of trot, trying to catch up with the snatches of conversation of the two in front.
The Donegal Trail is the brainchild of Colette and Tilman Anhold. You get a horse and a map and are left in the middle of nowhere (Ireland still has middles of nowhere) to be picked up in 10 days.
The couple who told us about it recounted terrifying tales of horses in bog up to their shoulders and superfit riders with decades of horsemanship. Perfect.
Travel guide: County Donegal
Donegal at a canter
'Where's the sun?' Shaun asked, not looking up from the map. He had barely looked up from it since we set off the day before.
Shame really, considering the Celtic landscapes drifting past at the pace of an Irish hunter.
I had appointed him Map Monitor, married as I am to a human compass who can be turned around in the dark in a blindfold and still point north.
So it was disconcerting to be asked for the sun.
'To our left?' I suggested wildly. 'Behind us,' said Serena, our eldest. 'In the sky,' Ben thought.
'The sun isn't ever behind us,' Alexander pointed out, rather in the way that he explains why the plughole drains anti-clockwise in the northern hemisphere.
Sadly, further explanations were absorbed by the wind-tossed sighs of the forest.
Riding is a great midwife to conversation when there are two of you but five horses walk just far enough apart, and make just enough noise, to render verbal communication infuriating.
'What did you say?' we had spent much of the holiday saying, at an uncomfortable sort of trot, trying to catch up with the snatches of conversation of the two in front.
The Donegal Trail is the brainchild of Colette and Tilman Anhold. You get a horse and a map and are left in the middle of nowhere (Ireland still has middles of nowhere) to be picked up in 10 days.
The couple who told us about it recounted terrifying tales of horses in bog up to their shoulders and superfit riders with decades of horsemanship. Perfect.
Travel guide: County Donegal
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| | | | Roving in the Republic
As memories of the Troubles fade, Londonderry's unique location is coming into its own. Only a few miles away is the border with the Republic of Ireland, once a time-consuming affair marked by checkpoints. Now there is no visible border at all, and only the Gaelic road signs (and cheap petrol) proclaim you've crossed into the Republic - but by then you're too engrossed by the scenery to care.
Here, County Donegal is a panoramic vista of silver lakes, green fields and rugged mountains. I headed off the main road to the Grianan of Aileach, a magnificent stone fort built circa 1700 BC. The perfectly preserved circular structure stood atop a hill like an apparition from the past. And there were no other visitors that morning.
Further west, the spectacular Atlantic Drive runs down to the ocean, dipping in and out of tiny bays and windswept coves.
But to see the best of this country you have to leave your car and walk. At Malin Head, the northernmost point in Ireland (though still in the Republic), the sun was going down in a smudge of pinks and yellows. The wind whipped in off the Atlantic, and the waves blew up rough and choppy. Two fishing boats bobbed back to the harbour, beating against the wind, and, as the last light faded over the dark cliffs, so the moon rose up above the ocean. A magnificent view.
Not much could follow that really. At McGrory's Guesthouse in nearby Culdaff, the rooms were warm and spacious; there was fresh seafood on the restaurant menu, and a coal fire glowing in the bar. Opened in 1924, the place is now run by Anne McGrory and her brothers, Neil and John.
Each Sunday, a music session starts, with John on guitar; Anne on vocals and Neil's wife Roisin on fiddle. Jigs, reels and Irish folk songs tumble forth, and the level of expertise would put many professionals to shame.
At closing time, Neil arrives with a special cocktail of Baileys and brandy, which, he claims, carries a 'knockout punch'. I speak from experience: there's no word of a lie in that, either.
Roving in the Republic
As memories of the Troubles fade, Londonderry's unique location is coming into its own. Only a few miles away is the border with the Republic of Ireland, once a time-consuming affair marked by checkpoints. Now there is no visible border at all, and only the Gaelic road signs (and cheap petrol) proclaim you've crossed into the Republic - but by then you're too engrossed by the scenery to care.
Here, County Donegal is a panoramic vista of silver lakes, green fields and rugged mountains. I headed off the main road to the Grianan of Aileach, a magnificent stone fort built circa 1700 BC. The perfectly preserved circular structure stood atop a hill like an apparition from the past. And there were no other visitors that morning.
Further west, the spectacular Atlantic Drive runs down to the ocean, dipping in and out of tiny bays and windswept coves.
But to see the best of this country you have to leave your car and walk. At Malin Head, the northernmost point in Ireland (though still in the Republic), the sun was going down in a smudge of pinks and yellows. The wind whipped in off the Atlantic, and the waves blew up rough and choppy. Two fishing boats bobbed back to the harbour, beating against the wind, and, as the last light faded over the dark cliffs, so the moon rose up above the ocean. A magnificent view.
Not much could follow that really. At McGrory's Guesthouse in nearby Culdaff, the rooms were warm and spacious; there was fresh seafood on the restaurant menu, and a coal fire glowing in the bar. Opened in 1924, the place is now run by Anne McGrory and her brothers, Neil and John.
Each Sunday, a music session starts, with John on guitar; Anne on vocals and Neil's wife Roisin on fiddle. Jigs, reels and Irish folk songs tumble forth, and the level of expertise would put many professionals to shame.
At closing time, Neil arrives with a special cocktail of Baileys and brandy, which, he claims, carries a 'knockout punch'. I speak from experience: there's no word of a lie in that, either.
Ride along the beach
So, one Wednesday in early July, Tilman drove us to an appropriately remote spot with numerous careful instructions, the first being to ride along the beach and the second to find the path through the forest before teatime because of the tide.
And before the horsebox was over the horizon, we were into our first quarrel.
Now, Atkinses can argue about anything, from black holes to whether you can use a preposition to end a sentence with.
But after a remarkably brief discussion about the merits of this little path behind the sand dune, a road 200 yards further down and the ink blot on the map, all the humans were in agreement. We were wrong.
Every one of the horses said so.
Not wanting to start the holiday with the wrong people in charge, we insisted: 'join the beach here'. So did they: 'no we don't'.
Serena and I, more experienced riders, persuaded ours grudgingly onward. The male contingent danced about on the spot for some time. We became hours late for our rendezvous with the forest but what did we care?
An empty road, July sunshine and nothing but the clop of horses to disturb the birdsong. It was time, I decided, for tea.
What should we pass but a hotel's placard. Ben and I cantered down the drive to enquire about a cuppa.
What is it about Ireland? This place was in the middle of nowhere - a Georgian pile costing a king's ransom to run.
Ride along the beach
So, one Wednesday in early July, Tilman drove us to an appropriately remote spot with numerous careful instructions, the first being to ride along the beach and the second to find the path through the forest before teatime because of the tide.
And before the horsebox was over the horizon, we were into our first quarrel.
Now, Atkinses can argue about anything, from black holes to whether you can use a preposition to end a sentence with.
But after a remarkably brief discussion about the merits of this little path behind the sand dune, a road 200 yards further down and the ink blot on the map, all the humans were in agreement. We were wrong.
Every one of the horses said so.
Not wanting to start the holiday with the wrong people in charge, we insisted: 'join the beach here'. So did they: 'no we don't'.
Serena and I, more experienced riders, persuaded ours grudgingly onward. The male contingent danced about on the spot for some time. We became hours late for our rendezvous with the forest but what did we care?
An empty road, July sunshine and nothing but the clop of horses to disturb the birdsong. It was time, I decided, for tea.
What should we pass but a hotel's placard. Ben and I cantered down the drive to enquire about a cuppa.
What is it about Ireland? This place was in the middle of nowhere - a Georgian pile costing a king's ransom to run.
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| | | | Character-building trip
We rang a bell that echoed for minutes. Eventually, a French maid came scuttling and agreed to a pot of tea.
She disappeared, so we rang bells until the chef arrived, whom we asked about tethering the horses.
'Orrses!' he exclaimed, waving his arms in alarm and requesting that they didn't get in the way of all the cars coming thundering down the drive.
We had a delightful tea in a sunny conservatory before retreading a drive that wasn't simply overgrown down the middle but all over. Cars indeed.
It was a character-building trip. Packing, for instance. Four saddle bags each (two small and two very small) isn't a problem if you're Ben and never change your clothes or wash or read a book, but don't expect a 19-year-old blonde to carry the first aid kit or horse brushes.
Madam's hairdryer took up a larger bag. Mind you, none of us carried the horse brushes - we forgot them. First we improvised, then I gave in - being the only person to have packed my own hairbrush.
Ireland and horses is a humorous enough combination, even before the navigation of unmarked bridleways and moveable gates.
Tilman has enhanced Donegal with yellow arrows painted on rocks and roads to help his riders. These enliven but considerably delay progress as one debates an arrow indicating back down the road, or pointing up a tree.
Ireland has not been enhanced by the euro. Everything has doubled in price. The trail is paid for up-front but dinner is not. After three expensive evenings I said we would economise.
The others protested but I pointed to the map. 'There's a pub within walking distance,' I said. 'We'll unsaddle, bath and go out for a sandwich' ('bath' being a loose term. Tourism Ireland insists B&Bs have ensuite showers, which is about as much use after a day on a horse as a slap in the face with a wet saddle cloth).
Character-building trip
We rang a bell that echoed for minutes. Eventually, a French maid came scuttling and agreed to a pot of tea.
She disappeared, so we rang bells until the chef arrived, whom we asked about tethering the horses.
'Orrses!' he exclaimed, waving his arms in alarm and requesting that they didn't get in the way of all the cars coming thundering down the drive.
We had a delightful tea in a sunny conservatory before retreading a drive that wasn't simply overgrown down the middle but all over. Cars indeed.
It was a character-building trip. Packing, for instance. Four saddle bags each (two small and two very small) isn't a problem if you're Ben and never change your clothes or wash or read a book, but don't expect a 19-year-old blonde to carry the first aid kit or horse brushes.
Madam's hairdryer took up a larger bag. Mind you, none of us carried the horse brushes - we forgot them. First we improvised, then I gave in - being the only person to have packed my own hairbrush.
Ireland and horses is a humorous enough combination, even before the navigation of unmarked bridleways and moveable gates.
Tilman has enhanced Donegal with yellow arrows painted on rocks and roads to help his riders. These enliven but considerably delay progress as one debates an arrow indicating back down the road, or pointing up a tree.
Ireland has not been enhanced by the euro. Everything has doubled in price. The trail is paid for up-front but dinner is not. After three expensive evenings I said we would economise.
The others protested but I pointed to the map. 'There's a pub within walking distance,' I said. 'We'll unsaddle, bath and go out for a sandwich' ('bath' being a loose term. Tourism Ireland insists B&Bs have ensuite showers, which is about as much use after a day on a horse as a slap in the face with a wet saddle cloth).
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| | | | Clip-clopping over the bridge
Oh for a bath, shared between the five of us. And we were in luck: our next farmhouse had one.
It was with breathless anticipation that I turned the taps and watched a couple of inches of lukewarm peaty water dribble into the tub. So we set off in the late afternoon for the pub. On the map it was a couple of miles.
At least it was downhill. Well into the evening, we reached the village: one of those long, spread-out villages with the pub the other end which we hailed like famine victims. Collapsing, we asked for the menu. 'We don't do food,' the landlord said.
The next day we descended a wide valley and basked by the river, asking a passing native whether the shop and pub, round the corner by map, would be open today.
Of course it would. We climbed the other side and saw, miles below, the twinkling habitation that held refreshment.
I went ahead to place orders for my now ravenous family, asking the way of a friendly lady collecting eggs from her hen house.
Round a bend over a bridge was the prettiest pub run by a family that was uncompromisingly, unapologetically, out.
My family, grinning deliriously at the thought of tea, were clip-clopping over the bridge. 'Wait,' I said frantically, thinking of the friendly lady with the eggs, and I cantered back up the road.
'Just a cup of tea,' I begged (forgetting to add 'in the hand', Irish for tea without food).
The welcome was spectacular: table spread wide, toast and cheese, cake, biscuits and fruit, use of the bathroom, pot after pot of tea, 'of course you can't give us anything, be seein' ya'.
Our 10 days in Donegal were perhaps the funniest and most eventful of our lives. Probably also the most memorable. Certainly the most painful after 10 days in the saddle. And would I recommend Tilman's Donegal Trail?
Yes and yes again. Though my family might recommend an intensive course of fitness and horsemanship first.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Horse Holiday Farm features the Donegal Trail http://www.horseriding-holidays.com/sligo-donegal/index.htm, tel: 00353 71 66152.
Stena Line Ferries offers return fares from Stranraer to Belfast. http://www.stenaline.com tel: 08705 707070.
Clip-clopping over the bridge
Oh for a bath, shared between the five of us. And we were in luck: our next farmhouse had one.
It was with breathless anticipation that I turned the taps and watched a couple of inches of lukewarm peaty water dribble into the tub. So we set off in the late afternoon for the pub. On the map it was a couple of miles.
At least it was downhill. Well into the evening, we reached the village: one of those long, spread-out villages with the pub the other end which we hailed like famine victims. Collapsing, we asked for the menu. 'We don't do food,' the landlord said.
The next day we descended a wide valley and basked by the river, asking a passing native whether the shop and pub, round the corner by map, would be open today.
Of course it would. We climbed the other side and saw, miles below, the twinkling habitation that held refreshment.
I went ahead to place orders for my now ravenous family, asking the way of a friendly lady collecting eggs from her hen house.
Round a bend over a bridge was the prettiest pub run by a family that was uncompromisingly, unapologetically, out.
My family, grinning deliriously at the thought of tea, were clip-clopping over the bridge. 'Wait,' I said frantically, thinking of the friendly lady with the eggs, and I cantered back up the road.
'Just a cup of tea,' I begged (forgetting to add 'in the hand', Irish for tea without food).
The welcome was spectacular: table spread wide, toast and cheese, cake, biscuits and fruit, use of the bathroom, pot after pot of tea, 'of course you can't give us anything, be seein' ya'.
Our 10 days in Donegal were perhaps the funniest and most eventful of our lives. Probably also the most memorable. Certainly the most painful after 10 days in the saddle. And would I recommend Tilman's Donegal Trail?
Yes and yes again. Though my family might recommend an intensive course of fitness and horsemanship first.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Horse Holiday Farm features the Donegal Trail www.horseriding-holidays.com/sligo-donegal/index.htm, tel: 00353 71 66152.
Stena Line Ferries offers return fares from Stranraer to Belfast. www.stenaline.com tel: 08705 707070.
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| | Destination Guide : County Donegal |
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| | | Bleak and dramatic |  | Why go on holiday to County Donegal?
Donegal extends farther north than Northern Ireland and is often described as the bleakest place in Ireland.
Bleak and dramatic - with cliffs, mountains, peat bogs, wonderful sandy beaches but often with cold and rainy weather, Donegal offers you empty vistas, some visitor-free coastlines and authentic Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) ambience.
How much does it cost?
A scheduled flight to Donegal Airport from London costs about £170 or you can fly into Derry for less and it is one hour from Donegal.
Ferries run from Holyhead to Dublin and cost from £169, rising in high season. Check for any offers on fares, such as high-season family tickets from £214 for a 10-day ticket.
Rail, ferry and air fares can vary greatly and you should always check with the operator for exact prices.
One week's self-catering in Bundoran including ferry, based on four adults in own car, from £130.
When should I go?
The warmest weather is in July and August, which brings the crowds, making costs the highest and accommodation harder to come by.
In the winter the weather can be miserable and tourist facilities shut. June and September are probably the best times. Summer 15C-20C (58F-68F), winter 2C-10C (35F-50F).
Why go on holiday to County Donegal?
Donegal extends farther north than Northern Ireland and is often described as the bleakest place in Ireland.
Bleak and dramatic - with cliffs, mountains, peat bogs, wonderful sandy beaches but often with cold and rainy weather, Donegal offers you empty vistas, some visitor-free coastlines and authentic Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) ambience.
How much does it cost?
A scheduled flight to Donegal Airport from London costs about £170 or you can fly into Derry for less and it is one hour from Donegal.
Ferries run from Holyhead to Dublin and cost from £169, rising in high season. Check for any offers on fares, such as high-season family tickets from £214 for a 10-day ticket.
Rail, ferry and air fares can vary greatly and you should always check with the operator for exact prices.
One week's self-catering in Bundoran including ferry, based on four adults in own car, from £130.
When should I go?
The warmest weather is in July and August, which brings the crowds, making costs the highest and accommodation harder to come by.
In the winter the weather can be miserable and tourist facilities shut. June and September are probably the best times. Summer 15C-20C (58F-68F), winter 2C-10C (35F-50F).
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| | | Dance to Irish music | | What should I do when I'm there?
Spend some time in Donegal Town enjoying the ambience, the sound of Gaelic being spoken all around and the music in the pubs.
Then head for remote Lough Derg to make a pilgrimage on tiny Station Island - be warned: refreshments on the island consist only of dry bread and black tea.
Go fishing, cycling or walking over the Blue Stack Mountains. Anglers will be in their element, although permits are needed.
What's Donegal Town like?
It's a pleasant, popular little place worth spending a bit of time in. Overlooked by the Castle perched on a rocky outcrop over the River Eske, the town harbours the ruins of a Franciscan friary - now the site of the "Diamond Obelisk".
This obelisk is a memorial to the "Annals of the Four Masters" which chronicle the history and myths of the Celts up to 1618.
You can fish with a permit in most of the local rivers just outside the town, and every year in late June/early July Donegal has a three-day Donegal Town Summer Festival with song, dance and storytelling as well as arts and crafts of the Gaelic people.
What about some countryside?
Head to Lough Eske and the Blue Stack Mountains with their great views. Or go up to North West Donegal around Dungloe Town (where they party for 10 days and choose the "Mary of Dungloe" in late June).
Here you'll find the Glenveagh National Park with the eponymous castle and the Bloody Foreland shore opposite the bleakly remote Tory Island.
Tory Island is worth a visit, as is the smaller, spectacular Arranmore further west. Both islands are inhabited and offer a warm welcome in from the cold.
Where's good on the coast?
South Donegal: Bundoran is the most popular, with arcades, shops, fish'n'chips - it's a kiss-me-quick town. Unspoilt Rossnowlagh with its five-kilometre stunning sandy beach is often deserted apart from a few surfers.
Head past pretty Montcharles and down to Dunkineely which has some good dive sites. You'll smell fishy Killybegs before you'll see it, but the broad harbour filled with trawlers is an amazing sight - and the fresh fish'n'chips are delicious too.
For more unspoiled scenery explore the Inishowen peninsula that ends in Malin Head and the truly spectacular Malin Bay.
What else is there to visit?
Letterkenny, the largest town in Donegal, with its four-day international festival of music and dance at the end of August, has a neo-Gothic Cathedral with intricate Celtic carving and a good Museum.
Some salmon and trout rivers and lakes surround the town - permits are available to visitors.
The nearby Newmills Corn & Flax Mills has a visitor centre explaining the history and production of flax. From there head to Glebe House and Gallery with its good collection - including some "Tory Island" artists - as well as lovely gardens.
Back in South West Donegal you'll find Glencolumbcille with its Folk Village Museum.
What should I do when I'm there?
Spend some time in Donegal Town enjoying the ambience, the sound of Gaelic being spoken all around and the music in the pubs.
Then head for remote Lough Derg to make a pilgrimage on tiny Station Island - be warned: refreshments on the island consist only of dry bread and black tea.
Go fishing, cycling or walking over the Blue Stack Mountains. Anglers will be in their element, although permits are needed.
What's Donegal Town like?
It's a pleasant, popular little place worth spending a bit of time in. Overlooked by the Castle perched on a rocky outcrop over the River Eske, the town harbours the ruins of a Franciscan friary - now the site of the "Diamond Obelisk".
This obelisk is a memorial to the "Annals of the Four Masters" which chronicle the history and myths of the Celts up to 1618.
You can fish with a permit in most of the local rivers just outside the town, and every year in late June/early July Donegal has a three-day Donegal Town Summer Festival with song, dance and storytelling as well as arts and crafts of the Gaelic people.
What about some countryside?
Head to Lough Eske and the Blue Stack Mountains with their great views. Or go up to North West Donegal around Dungloe Town (where they party for 10 days and choose the "Mary of Dungloe" in late June).
Here you'll find the Glenveagh National Park with the eponymous castle and the Bloody Foreland shore opposite the bleakly remote Tory Island.
Tory Island is worth a visit, as is the smaller, spectacular Arranmore further west. Both islands are inhabited and offer a warm welcome in from the cold.
Where's good on the coast?
South Donegal: Bundoran is the most popular, with arcades, shops, fish'n'chips - it's a kiss-me-quick town. Unspoilt Rossnowlagh with its five-kilometre stunning sandy beach is often deserted apart from a few surfers.
Head past pretty Montcharles and down to Dunkineely which has some good dive sites. You'll smell fishy Killybegs before you'll see it, but the broad harbour filled with trawlers is an amazing sight - and the fresh fish'n'chips are delicious too.
For more unspoiled scenery explore the Inishowen peninsula that ends in Malin Head and the truly spectacular Malin Bay.
What else is there to visit?
Letterkenny, the largest town in Donegal, with its four-day international festival of music and dance at the end of August, has a neo-Gothic Cathedral with intricate Celtic carving and a good Museum.
Some salmon and trout rivers and lakes surround the town - permits are available to visitors.
The nearby Newmills Corn & Flax Mills has a visitor centre explaining the history and production of flax. From there head to Glebe House and Gallery with its good collection - including some "Tory Island" artists - as well as lovely gardens.
Back in South West Donegal you'll find Glencolumbcille with its Folk Village Museum.
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| | | Delicious fresh seafood | | Where's good for nightlife?
In Donegal there are many pubs on Main and Upper Main Street - Scotsman has a friendly local crowd ready to sing at the drop of a pint.
In Letterkenny for live music try Central Bar, Upper Main St and the emerald green Cottage Bar on Thursday nights. On remote Tory Island the Club Soisialta Thoraigh (Tory Social Club) has regular traditional music sessions, as does Ostan Thoraigh.
During summer you will find most places you visit will have bustling pubs that will often have live music.
What's the food like?
Make sure you indulge your taste for seafood in Killybegs - try Melly's, where fish is so fresh it melts in your mouth.
In Glencolumbcille Folk Village Museum you'll find a shebeen selling wines made from seaweed, fuchsias and other curious ingredients and a cafe selling excellent examples of delicious Irish cakes, apple tart and breads.
Irish food is generally very meaty, served with potatoes (colcannon - mashed with butter and green onions if you're lucky) and cabbage. Lunch is usually the biggest meal of the day.
Expect Irish bread to be good - especially speciality breads - and cakes to be rich. Guinness and Murphys are the usual pint, Irish whiskey is mellower than the Scottish version, Irish springwater should quench the thirst.
What should I buy?
You will find tweed and knitwear in most places in Donegal County. For real Donegal Tweed try Magees in The Diamond in Donegal - it has its own garment factory and also sells tweed from the roll.
Jackets cost about £150, skirts £60, Aran sweaters £100. Also try Donegal Craft Village with small art and craft workshops: pottery, crystal, batik and jewellery are all made and sold there.
Glencolumbcille Woollen Market 3km south of the village has Rossan knitwear and Donegal tweed jackets, caps and ties plus lambswool scarves and shawls, as well as Aran sweaters and handwoven rugs.
In Rossan itself at Lace House you'll find a selection of the local knitwear and other craft articles.
What is there for children to do?
Donegal Railway Heritage Centre tells the history of the steam railway that ran from Ballyshannon to Derry until 1959.
Malin Bay's Malinmore Outdoor Pursuits Centre with canoeing, snorkelling, fishing, orienteering, boat trips and other activities could be perfect for older kids/teenagers with active parents.
There are many heritage centres and museums. Watch a handloom weaver work at the Ardara Heritage Centre.
Tourist office
Tourism Ireland, 103 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1QS. Tel.0800 039 7000.
Where's good for nightlife?
In Donegal there are many pubs on Main and Upper Main Street - Scotsman has a friendly local crowd ready to sing at the drop of a pint.
In Letterkenny for live music try Central Bar, Upper Main St and the emerald green Cottage Bar on Thursday nights. On remote Tory Island the Club Soisialta Thoraigh (Tory Social Club) has regular traditional music sessions, as does Ostan Thoraigh.
During summer you will find most places you visit will have bustling pubs that will often have live music.
What's the food like?
Make sure you indulge your taste for seafood in Killybegs - try Melly's, where fish is so fresh it melts in your mouth.
In Glencolumbcille Folk Village Museum you'll find a shebeen selling wines made from seaweed, fuchsias and other curious ingredients and a cafe selling excellent examples of delicious Irish cakes, apple tart and breads.
Irish food is generally very meaty, served with potatoes (colcannon - mashed with butter and green onions if you're lucky) and cabbage. Lunch is usually the biggest meal of the day.
Expect Irish bread to be good - especially speciality breads - and cakes to be rich. Guinness and Murphys are the usual pint, Irish whiskey is mellower than the Scottish version, Irish springwater should quench the thirst.
What should I buy?
You will find tweed and knitwear in most places in Donegal County. For real Donegal Tweed try Magees in The Diamond in Donegal - it has its own garment factory and also sells tweed from the roll.
Jackets cost about £150, skirts £60, Aran sweaters £100. Also try Donegal Craft Village with small art and craft workshops: pottery, crystal, batik and jewellery are all made and sold there.
Glencolumbcille Woollen Market 3km south of the village has Rossan knitwear and Donegal tweed jackets, caps and ties plus lambswool scarves and shawls, as well as Aran sweaters and handwoven rugs.
In Rossan itself at Lace House you'll find a selection of the local knitwear and other craft articles.
What is there for children to do?
Donegal Railway Heritage Centre tells the history of the steam railway that ran from Ballyshannon to Derry until 1959.
Malin Bay's Malinmore Outdoor Pursuits Centre with canoeing, snorkelling, fishing, orienteering, boat trips and other activities could be perfect for older kids/teenagers with active parents.
There are many heritage centres and museums. Watch a handloom weaver work at the Ardara Heritage Centre.
Tourist office
Tourism Ireland, 103 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1QS. Tel.0800 039 7000.
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| | Fact File : County Donegal |
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| | | County Donegal | | Did you know?
County Donegal is virtually separated from the rest of the Republic by the westward projection of County Fermanagh.
Language
English, Irish (Gaelic)
Visas
No visa is required for UK citizens, but take your passport for identification.
Getting there
Flights from London, Manchester and other regional airports go to the capital Dublin, Shannon and Cork. Unless you are setting off from the North you will travel to County Donegal from Sligo on the N15. There are frequent bus connections with Derry, Enniskillen and Belfast in the North, Sligo, Galway and Killybegs in the west, Limerick and Cork in the south and Dublin in the south-east.
Flying time from London
Around one hour
Getting around
There are flights between Dublin and Cork, Donegal, Galway, Kerry, Shannon and Sligo. Once in County Donegal you can get around by bus, but it's time-consuming. This is walking and cycling countries. Just remember that country cycling is for the fit, includes hills and there is frequent rain.
Currency
Euro
Costs
Litre of petrol 54p; pint of beer £1.73; moderate restaurant meal £7.50-£15; roll of film £2; four-mile taxi ride £4.
Weather
Winter can be miserable, so June and September are probably the best times. Summer 15-20C (58-68F), winter 2-10C (35-50F). If you arrive in County Donegal in March for example, you'll find most of it shut down.
Time difference
None, it's on GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 353
Voltage
220V 50Hz AC; flat three-pin plugs - no adaptors necessary.
Opening hours
Offices open 9am-5pm weekdays, shops open 9am-5.30/6pm Monday to Saturday, with Thursday and/or Friday late opening. Tourist offices and attractions often open fewer hours or close from October to April.
Health - Before you go
No vaccinations needed.
Health - When you are there
You do not need an EHIC form to get free treatment in Eire - but you do need proof of UK residency. Obtain information regarding treatment from the Health Board of the region you are staying in.
Warnings
Remember that at least one third of Donegal lies in the Gaeltacht, where Irish is more widely spoken than English. Be prepared for road signs (in Irish only), no road signs at all and keep an eye out for suicidal sheep!
Emergency
Police dial 999. British Embassy in Dublin: 29 Merrion Road, Ballsbridge Dublin 4, Tel. (00 353 1) 205 3700.
Customs
You might be invited to a pub for its good "craic" (pron. "crack"), which describes having a good time hanging out with friends. People really do sing and play music in pubs. Join in - it's fun and will be appreciated.
Pets
Eire allows pets entry but has restrictions on certain breeds of dog, and all dogs have to have been resident in the UK for at least six months before their visit.
Tipping
Some places add 10-15% and no additional tip is required. Some don't but if you want to tip, round up the bill or add 10% at most. Taxis don't have to be tipped, but 10% is fine.
Tourist office
Tourism Ireland, 103 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1QS. Tel.0800 039 7000.
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| | Available rental properties in County Donegal |
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| |  | | Meenan's Thatched Cottage
Situated in the shadow of Slieve League, this quaint Thatched Cottage offers a peaceful, comfortable holiday experience with a difference.
|  | | Luxurious Donegal shore house.
This welcoming seafront townhouse, with fantastic sea views across Donegal bay to the Sligo Mountains and Rossnowlagh strand is great value for money!
|  | | No 1 Inverbeg Holiday Cottage Sleeps 8
Luxurious New 3 Bedroom/3Bath Detached Dormer Holiday Cottage Sleeps 9 on Atlantic Drive Downings close to Beach,Water Sports,Golf,Restaurants,Pubs,Horse Riding.
|  | | No 2 Inverbeg Holiday Cottage Sleeps 8 to 10
Luxurious New 3 Bedroom/3Bath Detached Dormer Holiday Cottage Sleeps 9 on Atlantic Drive Downings close to Beach,Water Sports,Golf,Restaurants,Pubs,Horse Riding.
|  | | Glenn Na Ceo Cottage
Gleann na Ceo holiday cottage is a modern detached, luxurious holiday home, finished to a high spec. ,close to Downings and Carrigart. /withSports,Golf,Restaurants,Pubs,Horse Riding in the area
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Holiday Rentals in County Donegal |
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 |  | Family and kids (7) | | | Beautiful Scenery (3) | | | Beach (2) | | | Lively nightlife (2) | | | Good value (1) |
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