Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Ireland / County Galway
 |  | Travel Reviews : County Galway |
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| | | | With saints and sinnners
The path to redemption was a long and rocky one and the signs were unmistakable; I wasn't going to make it.
Croagh Patrick's distinctive pyramid-shaped peak near Westport in Western Ireland has been a place of pilgrimage for almost 2,000 years. Legend has it that the country's patron saint, St Patrick, fasted on its summit for 40 days and 40 nights. As if that wasn't challenging enough, he also chose this 765m high vantage point to banish all the country's snakes.
Every July, in memory of the saint, the mountain bristles with the ant-like figures of thousands of pilgrims determined to make the three hour ascent to reach an ancient stone church on the summit – the more pious do it barefoot.
As I picked my way over the razor-sharp rocky trail, the mere thought of this gruelling penance was enough to make my toes curl.
But any chance for personal atonement was going to have to wait. The final scramble on all fours was considered too dangerous for us to tackle in the fog now wrapped devilishly around the mountain's conical-shaped head.
Thank God, I thought: my sinning days weren't quite numbered yet.
Mercifully, the weather was clear beneath the 518m high shelf we aimed to reach, offering us uninterrupted, picture postcard views over Clew Bay with its myriad of small islands glittering like emerald stones.
It was among these sweeping aqua-fringed bays and deserted sandy beaches that pirate queen Grace O'Malley plundered passing ships in the 16th century.
The next morning under a dense blanket of clouds, the islands appeared far less alluring as we whizzed around the bay by boat. A lonely seal gazed disconsolately at us from one grey, boulder-strewn scrap of land, sheep dotted the precariously steep slopes of another, whilst the only evidence of human activity lay by the lighthouse where a postman's boat was tied to shore.
Despite their exposure to the elements, Beatles star John Lennon was so enchanted with the islands that he paid £1,700 to buy one in the 1960s. Last summer, another outcrop was snapped up by the Moonies religious cult – an invasion sure to have O'Malley swashbuckling in her grave, I thought.
A ruthless sea-farer, O'Malley ruled the west coast seas down to Inishbofin, one of Ireland's most westerly outposts located off the coast of County Galway.
About 6km long and 3km wide, this unspoilt haven has become home to around 130 people and boasts one school, a pub and two hotels. Featuring arched caves, vertigo-inducing cliffs, giant crashing waves and hidden sandy beaches, it was Ireland at it wild best.
And the weather, predictably, lent itself to the drama . No sooner had we arrived by ferry from Cleggan and set off for a hike under bright blue skies than we saw a grey column of rain advancing from the Atlantic. Minutes later, big fat dollops of water were bouncing off my waterproofs. Just as suddenly, the showers retreated and we were blessed with sunshine again.
As we passed a row of cottages, Gerry MacCloskey, our ruddy-faced local guide, pointed out ancient middens or grassy banks encrusted with shells dating back to Neolithic times. Further along the cliff-top trail, we trooped by a golden beach washed by turquoise blue waters, the stone ruins of a 2000-year-old fort overlooking dizzyingly high cliffs and a series of rocky quills called the Stags bombarded by frothing surf.
On neighbouring Inishark, abandoned homes stood like ghostly tombstones over a treacherous watery strip. Here, tragedy had struck 50 years earlier, claiming the lives of four islanders and leading the rest to finally abandon their attempt to live on anisland so often cut off from the mainland.
Apart from one other couple, a lapwing and a couple of rabbits, we didn't see a single soul on our hike: it felt like we had Inishbofen to ourselves.
Just as our stomachs were starting to growl, Gerry led us to a sheltered spot overlooking a sea-sculpted rock arch. Like a magician, he pulled from his rucksack bottles of wine, a platter-sized piece of salmon, fresh sandwiches and strawberries. It was certainly one of the best picnics I'd ever eaten.
After four hours of hiking, we returned to the Day's Inishbofin House Hotel & Spa – a chic, minimalist affair lashed together by enough glass to start a double glazing company. Flooded with light, the bar was perfectly designed to drink in flawless views of the old harbour dotted with fishing boats, a partially sunken ferry and if I craned my neck - the crumbled ruins of a 300 year old fort.
It seemed the appropriate moment to enjoy a pint of Guinness, even though I'd never enjoyed it in England. I took a cautious sip and discovered that the legendary black stout tasted much the same as I thought it did back home – vile. Meanwhile, my fellow drinkers slurped contentedly.
The hotel food however was impeccable. I tucked into crab meat for starters before polishing off grilled sea bass and vegetables and panna cotta for dessert, without so much as a pause. It was divine.
Much as I wanted to linger on Inishbofin, the next morning signalled our return to the mainland where we rolled northwards through a land of russet brown and green mountains, gushing streams and glittering lakes to Westport, nestled under the shadow of Croagh Patrick.
That evening in the Moran, a tiny pub adjoining a grocery store where drinkers sipped their pints in front of a well-laden fridge, I struck up a conversation with four, friendly Irishmen who'd hiked to the summit earlier in the day.
Judging from their raucous laughter and unsteady feet, I could see that it was easy to stray from the righteous path after climbing up a mountain - holy or not. I was sure St Patrick would forgive them.
* B&B prices at Day's Inishbofin House Hotel start from 70 euros per person per night. Tel: 00 353 95 458 09 or see www.inishbofinhouse.com. A five day island hopping trip and walking holiday with Connemara Safari starts from 599 euros for a 5 day island hopping and walking holiday. Prices include all meals, hotels and ferry tickets. Ring 00 353 95 21071 for more info or see www.walkingconnemara.com
* If you like Connemara, read the following travel guides:
Scottish Highlands
The Alps
Corsica
Travel Guide: County Galway
The best of the wild west
From the Mail on Sunday
Where to go for a three-day break? I've chosen Roundstone, a remote fishing village on the west coast of Ireland - surely the last tip of land before the New World.
Before booking I greedily scoured guidebooks to find out more about that part of the Irish coast - yes, it's supposed to be the least populated part of the country; also it has remained Celtic, never having been conquered by Rome.
We flew from Gatwick to Dublin, where we changed planes and in one hour were in Galway. Alternatively, you can hire a car in Dublin and drive the 180-odd miles.
The two-hour car journey to Roundstone was a delight, with breathtakingly rugged scenery on either side. Blue sky was reflected in lakes and rivers twisting past us, through turf bogs and yellow gorse, while shaggy Connemara mountain sheep grazed behind dry stone walls, occasional lambs escaping into our path.
Bend upon bend, the scenery changed, a blue haze over the mountains in the distance, the slopes ablaze with purple and pink heather, with a curl of turf smoke rising from the odd white cottage.
We stopped briefly at Ballynahinch Castle, built in 1720 overlooking a tranquil lake - a reminder of how feudal lords once lived. One was Richard Martin, founder of today's RSPCA - nicknamed 'Humanity Dick'.
Finally, we arrived at Roundstone House Hotel in the heart of a scenic fishing village, with each cottage painted a different colour, overlooking a beautiful bay with deep inlets and the peaks of the Twelve Bens beyond.
The evening sun was setting low over the fishing boats as we strolled down to the small pier, having enjoyed the solemn ritual of the slow pouring of a pint of stout - yes, we'd arrived in the midst of the thriving Celtic tradition to the romantic haunts of W.B. Yeats.
Dinner at the hotel, beautifully cooked by owner Maureen Vaughan and her daughter, was local fish, salmon, lobster, lamb or steak, with her home-baked soda bread. Tired and content, we drifted off to bed, impatient for another day to explore this magic country - trout fishing, hill walking, golf or pony-trekking, or a boat trip to Inishbofin or the Aran Islands.
Travel guide: Country Galway
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| | | | Mile upon mile of bogland
The decision was taken out of our hands when our new Irish friend, Siobhan, offered to drive us around Connemara and County Mayo.
Taking the road to Clifden, one passes through the simplicity of mile upon mile of the brown turf of bogland, with lakes mirroring the indigo mountains. As we stopped to shop in Clifden, we learnt that in 1919 aviators Alcock and Brown landed nearby after making the first transatlantic flight.
Driving on, we passed Kylemore Abbey - a neo-gothic castle used in the film The Quiet Man - where wooded hills and the placid waters of a lake provide a perfect setting.
As we drove on towards Killary Bay, the land became more picturesque with arable, green patches, different types of fir trees and yellow gorse. Siobhan reminded us of the old saying 'when the gorse is out of bloom, then is kissing out of tune?'
To our left stretched Killary Bay, deep enough for King Edward VII to steam up in a battleship. It's now alive with salmon and mussel beds.
Before leaving County Galway, Siobhan pointed out high in the hills 'the lazy beds' - the small patches where in 1847 people, starving and despairing for food, made desperate attempts to avoid the blight of the potato famine. As we wound our way into County Mayo, we realised why Prince Charles chose the peace of Delphi, near Doolough, to paint - no telegraph wires for miles, just the odd man fishing in the Erriff River, which ran to one side of the road, with dark, steep, menacing mountains on the other side.
Speeding on, we passed Croagh Patrick mountain - in memory of St Patrick - where there's a steep climb to the top, walking or on your knees, to say prayers in the little chapel. We left that for others and drove on to Clew Bay, where dolphins, whales and basking sharks are seen on sunny days.
The 16th Century pirate queen Granuaile would land here in her boat from her castle on Clare Island. Siobhan told us how one of Granuaile's sons was imprisoned in England - undaunted, she asked the pardon of Queen Elizabeth, who released him and later made him an earl.
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| | | | Honesty, friendliness and peace
Returning to Roundstone utterly content, we met up with our grandson Ned and his Irish friend, Marcus. They had cycled from Galway the night before, camping on the lakeside at Spiddle. Tired, cold and hungry, they tried to light a fire but their matches were damp, save the last one, and the only paper they had was their map! They then snuggled into their sleeping bags and slept the night away at the water's edge. Yes,
On our last day, after an Irish breakfast with sun streaming through a large glass window which looks out over the harbour, I set myself the challenge of climbing Errisbeg mountain behind Roundstone.
As I went on, the sound of children playing in the village square below gave way to the calls of sheep and lambs grazing.
I climbed higher and higher, accompanied by the bubbling and gushing of a brook running past, through gorse, cow pats and rough rock. But time to turn back, as I'd arranged a game of golf with my grandson at Connemara Links Golf course, followed by another Irish dinner sitting around a peat fire in a friend's cottage nearby.
But return we must and spare many more than three days. Certainly, I shall take a boat to some of the many islands, where you can spend a night or two and hire a bicycle.
We had three days of sunshine, with just the odd drop of rain. We must leave now, leave this peaceful village where small groups of villagers still chat in doorways, where they leave their key outside their door to show they are out! Yes, there's a place where honesty, friendliness and peace are still to be found - and only four hours from London.
TRAVEL FACTS:
British Airways (0845 7733377) flies from Gatwick to Dublin and on to Galway. For accommodation at the Roundstone House Hotel contact Maureen Vaughan on 00 353 95 35864. For more information call the Irish Tourist Board (0800 039 7000) or visit the website www.irelandtravel.co.uk.
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| | Destination Guide : County Galway |
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| | | Craggy Atlantic coastline |  | Why go on holiday to Galway?
County Galway is one of the highlights of Ireland as it stretches west from Ballinasloe, through the wilds of Connemara, to the craggy Atlantic coastline beyond Clifden.
Galway City is the west coast's liveliest, most populous town.
How much does it cost?
Flights to Galway cost about £45 return and you have to change planes in Dublin. Alternatively you could fly to Dublin (from £29 return) and drive or take a train to Galway.
Rail and air fares can vary greatly and you should always check with the operator for exact flight prices.
Cottage accommodation from £100 (sterling) a week. B&B costs from £25, hotels from £35.
When should I go?
July and August have the best weather, which brings the crowds and high costs.
In winter the weather can be miserable and many tourist facilities shut. During July's festivals Galway City gets very busy so make sure you've booked accommodation.
Why go on holiday to Galway?
County Galway is one of the highlights of Ireland as it stretches west from Ballinasloe, through the wilds of Connemara, to the craggy Atlantic coastline beyond Clifden.
Galway City is the west coast's liveliest, most populous town.
How much does it cost?
Flights to Galway cost about £45 return and you have to change planes in Dublin. Alternatively you could fly to Dublin (from £29 return) and drive or take a train to Galway.
Rail and air fares can vary greatly and you should always check with the operator for exact prices.
Rent a cottage from £100 (sterling) a week. B&B costs from £25, hotels from £35.
When should I go?
July and August have the best weather, which brings the crowds and high costs.
In winter the weather can be miserable and many tourist facilities shut. During July's festivals Galway City gets very busy so make sure you've booked accommodation.
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| | | Explore the islands | | What should I do when I'm there?
Enjoy pubs, theatres, festivals and street life in Galway City, hike through the wonderful Connemara National Park or the Lough Inagh Valley. Cycle the rugged "Sky Road" near Clifden. Visit the Aran Islands for cycling or walking and exploring.
Where can I get away from it all?
Head west to Connemara, a wild, barren patchwork of bogs, lost valleys, pale grey mountains, shimmering small lakes and excellent salmon fishing.
The Maumturk Mountains and the quartzite peaks of the Twelve Bens in the centre of the region offer stunning, if strenuous, walks with views over the plain to the sea, where pretty villages such as Roundstone and Carna nestle among pink granite rocks.
The scenic landscape around the Lough Inagh Valley, past the Bens and around Kylemore Lake (known as "Joyce country") would be difficult to surpass anywhere in Ireland.
What about the Aran islands?
The limestone Aran Islands, Inishmor, Inishmaan and Inisheer, rise up from the sea and are criss-crossed by ancient stone walls enclosing sandy paths. On Inishmor you'll find the amazing Dun Aengus and two other stone forts - all more than 2,000 years old.
Try to make it to Inishmaan with its forts, cottages and church, or to tiny Inisheer with O'Brien Castle, ring fort, Heritage house and Church. Allow yourself a few days for tranquil exploration.
What about historic sights?
Gort has a 16th century Norman tower used by the poet WB Yeats as a summer home.
It's open Easter to September and has his furnishings and fittings and a presentation about his life.
Dunguaire Castle, north of Kinvara, is also 16th century and each floor represents a different phase in its history. It has guided tours. Galway city is full of history including Lynch's Castle, parts of which date back to the 14th century.
What should I do when I'm there?
Enjoy pubs, theatres, festivals and street life in Galway City, hike through the wonderful Connemara National Park or the Lough Inagh Valley. Cycle the rugged "Sky Road" near Clifden. Visit the Aran Islands for cycling or walking and exploring.
Where can I get away from it all?
Head west to Connemara, a wild, barren patchwork of bogs, lost valleys, pale grey mountains, shimmering small lakes and excellent salmon fishing.
The Maumturk Mountains and the quartzite peaks of the Twelve Bens in the centre of the region offer stunning, if strenuous, walks with views over the plain to the sea, where pretty villages such as Roundstone and Carna nestle among pink granite rocks.
The scenic landscape around the Lough Inagh Valley, past the Bens and around Kylemore Lake (known as "Joyce country") would be difficult to surpass anywhere in Ireland.
What about the Aran islands?
The limestone Aran Islands, Inishmor, Inishmaan and Inisheer, rise up from the sea and are criss-crossed by ancient stone walls enclosing sandy paths. On Inishmor you'll find the amazing Dun Aengus and two other stone forts - all more than 2,000 years old.
Try to make it to Inishmaan with its forts, cottages and church, or to tiny Inisheer with O'Brien Castle, ring fort, Heritage house and Church. Allow yourself a few days for tranquil exploration.
What about historic sights?
Gort has a 16th century Norman tower used by the poet WB Yeats as a summer home.
It's open Easter to September and has his furnishings and fittings and a presentation about his life.
Dunguaire Castle, north of Kinvara, is also 16th century and each floor represents a different phase in its history. It has guided tours. Galway city is full of history including Lynch's Castle, parts of which date back to the 14th century.
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| | | Delicious seafood | | Where's good for nightlife?
Galway City pubs include the 100-year-old Seagan Ua Neachtain. Upper Cross Street has a flamboyant crowd, and the King's Head in the High Street is popular in summer. The Lisheen Bar, Bridge St, is a good traditional music venue.
Listings mag Galway Edge is available free - check what's on at the three theatres. On Inishmor in Kilronan there's music in most of the pubs at night. Try Joe Watty's Bar and The American Bar or Lucky Star.
What's the food like?
Irish meals are usually based around meat - try a traditional Irish stew. This area is also good for seafood - notably fresh oysters and mussels. Traditional Irish breads and scones are also delicious - try a cake-like bread called barm brack.
The main meal of the day tends to be lunch. Wash down a good pub lunch with a Murphys or a Guinness (it really does taste even better in Ireland).
What should I buy?
The Galway Claddagh ring in silver or gold is a popular buy. The Design Concourse Ireland in Kirwan's Lane displays and sells the cutting edge in Irish design: from furniture to tableware to high fashion.
Head to the Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre for glassware and the Royal Tara China factory at Mervue for ceramics. In Clifden and Roundstone you'll find places to buy bodhran (goatskin drums used in Irish music). In Aran buy the famous sweater.
What is there for children to do?
They can go riding on real Connemara ponies along the beach and up into the hills at the Errislannan Riding Centre on the Ballyconneely road. There are plenty of safe beaches to swim from in the area.
Oceans Alive aquarium and museum is on Derrinver Bay, near Lettefrack.
Tourist Office
Tourism Ireland, 103 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1QS. Tel.0800 039 7000.
Where's good for nightlife?
Galway City pubs include the 100-year-old Seagan Ua Neachtain. Upper Cross Street has a flamboyant crowd, and the King's Head in the High Street is popular in summer. The Lisheen Bar, Bridge St, is a good traditional music venue.
Listings mag Galway Edge is available free - check what's on at the three theatres. On Inishmor in Kilronan there's music in most of the pubs at night. Try Joe Watty's Bar and The American Bar or Lucky Star.
What's the food like?
Irish meals are usually based around meat - try a traditional Irish stew. This area is also good for seafood - notably fresh oysters and mussels. Traditional Irish breads and scones are also delicious - try a cake-like bread called barm brack.
The main meal of the day tends to be lunch. Wash down a good pub lunch with a Murphys or a Guinness (it really does taste even better in Ireland).
What should I buy?
The Galway Claddagh ring in silver or gold is a popular buy. The Design Concourse Ireland in Kirwan's Lane displays and sells the cutting edge in Irish design: from furniture to tableware to high fashion.
Head to the Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre for glassware and the Royal Tara China factory at Mervue for ceramics. In Clifden and Roundstone you'll find places to buy bodhran (goatskin drums used in Irish music). In Aran buy the famous sweater.
What is there for children to do?
They can go riding on real Connemara ponies along the beach and up into the hills at the Errislannan Riding Centre on the Ballyconneely road. There are plenty of safe beaches to swim from in the area.
Oceans Alive aquarium and museum is on Derrinver Bay, near Lettefrack.
Tourist Office
Tourism Ireland, 103 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1QS. Tel.0800 039 7000.
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| | Fact File : County Galway |
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| | | County Galway | | Did you know?
County Galway boasts the largest lake in the Republic – Lough Corrib covering 200sq km and featuring more than 360 islands.
Language
English, Irish (Gaelic)
Visas
No visa is required for UK citizens, but take your passport for identification.
Getting there
Flights from London, Manchester, Liverpool, Edinburgh and Glasgow are available. Try Aer Arann, Air Lingus, bmi and British Airways.
Flying time from London
Around one hour 50 mins
Getting around
Buses or cars are the best way of exploring the county. This is also walking and cycling country. Just remember that country cycling is for the fit, includes hills and there is frequent rain.
Currency
Euro
Costs
Litre of petrol 54p; pint of beer £1.73; moderate restaurant meal £7.50-£15; roll of film £2; four-mile taxi ride £4.
Weather
Winter can be miserable, so June and September are probably the best times. Summer 15-20C (58-68F), winter 2-10C (35-50F).
Time difference
None, it's on GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 353
Voltage
220V 50Hz AC; flat three-pin plugs - no adaptors necessary.
Opening hours
Offices open 9am-5pm weekdays, shops open 9am-5.30/6pm Monday to Saturday, with Thursday and/or Friday late opening. Tourist offices and attractions often open fewer hours or close from October to April.
Health - Before you go
No vaccinations needed.
Health - When you are there
You do not need an EHIC form to get free treatment in Eire - but you do need proof of UK residency. Obtain information regarding treatment from the Health Board of the region you are staying in.
Warnings
If you're visiting some of the remote Aran Isles such as Inishmor, be careful if you're doing cliff walks. There are no guard rails and the winds can be very strong.
Emergency
Police dial 999. British Embassy in Dublin: 29 Merrion Road, Ballsbridge Dublin 4, Tel. (00 353 1) 205 3700.
Customs
You might be invited to a pub for its good "craic" (pron. "crack"), which describes having a good time hanging out with friends. People really do sing and play music in pubs. Join in - it's fun and will be appreciated.
Pets
Eire allows pets entry but has restrictions on certain breeds of dog, and all dogs have to have been resident in the UK for at least six months before their visit.
Tipping
Some places add 10-15% and no additional tip is required. Some don't but if you want to tip, round up the bill or add 10% at most. Taxis don't have to be tipped, but 10% is fine.
Tourist office
Tourism Ireland, 103 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1QS. Tel.0800 039 7000.
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| | Available rental properties in County Galway |
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| |  | | Ailleacht an Ghleanna
Connemara holiday home, 16miles west of Galway City, set on the shores of Galway Bay, with a splended view of the Burren, Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands.
|  | | Beautful Cottage
Cottage Roscide
|  | | Thatched cottage
Connemara Thatched Cottage Surrounded by the sea with the majestic Connemara Mountains in the background, this scenic area is one of the few remaining
|  | | Galway Bay Villa
Beautiful house right on the sea with Satellite TV and large Jacuzzi Bath. Sea views from all rooms including views of Galway bay, the burren, the cliffs of Moher and the Aran islands.
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Holiday Rentals in County Galway |
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 |  | Unspoilt and charming (1) | | | Family and kids (1) | | | Beautiful Scenery (1) |
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