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| | | | How to do Prague on the cheap
From the Mail on Sunday
There aren't many capitals where a pint of beer costs just 50p, a hearty meal less than £2 and a trip from the airport to the city centre 25p.
But Prague is one - as long as you know where to look...
GETTING THERE
Low-cost airline Go (http://www.go-fly.com tel: 0870 607 6543) flies to Prague from Stansted and from Bristol and East Midlands airports.
Bus 119 will take you from Prague airport (buy tickets at the arrivals hall transport desk) to the end of the metro line, then it's just a few stops to the city centre. Total journey time 40-60 minutes, total cost 25p.
If you have lots of bags, a Cedaz minibus takes one to four passengers right to your hotel for £7.50.
GETTING AROUND
Within the city centre, you'll only need your feet. However, a ride on the efficient Russian-built metro or the trams costs only 15p-25p, a 24-hour pass £1.50. You must buy tickets/passes in advance.
The most useful tram is 22, which takes you up to Prague Castle. If you take a cab, watch out for overcharging.
Travel guide: Czech Republic
Drowned but not out
Floods? What floods? Czechs are not cocky, so they would not be quite so flourishing in their statements.
But two months after the Czech capital was devastated by floods, the city is not just back on its feet but ready to party.
Relaxed faces line the streets. Teenagers jabber into mobiles. Couples kiss in doorways. Even the policemen are smiling.
It is not quite business as usual. At the aptly named C'est La Vie restaurant on the banks of the Vltava river, a workman is repairing a badly damaged wall.
'How long till you open again?' 'Maybe Christmas.' As with all such natural disasters, there is a lingering sense of unfairness.
One souvenir shop, 18in above the high watermark of August, is doing a roaring trade; another 50 yards away is closed until further notice. C'est la vie indeed.
As the Vltava glides serenely under Charles Bridge, it is hard to imagine it bursting its banks with such ferocity. Only the smell gives the game away.
As you near the river, the stench of silt, damp walls and burst sandbags blends with the other, more seductive aromas of the city: bakeries; freshly brewed coffee; the hint of goulash.
In the low-lying Jewish quarter, Josefov - one of the most fascinating in the whole city and home to Prague's Jewish community since the 13th century - the damage is particularly extensive.
The Jewish museum and cemetery are closed, and in the beautiful 13th-century synagogue the extractor fans are on full blast, drying the sodden walls.
But the area is still wonderfully atmospheric.
Travel guide: Czech Republic
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| | | | Where to stay and eat
WHERE TO STAY
Good-quality budget accommodation is hard to find. For somewhere appealing bank on spending at least £70 a night B&B for a double in high season (April to November).
Book well in advance for the following hotels, which are small and very popular. Rates are for B&B in a double room this summer. Add the prefix 0042 02 to phone numbers.
Dum U Velke Boty, Vlasska 30 (http://www.volweb.cz/rippl/ tel: 575 33 234), £69-£84. The 17th Century house has eight lovely bedrooms, excellent breakfasts, caring staff and a quiet position under the castle. My favourite.
Pension Dientzenhofer, Nosticova 2 (tel: 573 11 319), £73. Tucked away in a peaceful corner near Charles Bridge, this quaint 16th Century house has spacious bedrooms with modern furniture.
U Suteru, Palackeho 4 (249 48 235), £69-£81. A medieval/Baroque pub-with-rooms in the new town, not far from Wenceslas Square. Bedrooms are large and stylish.
Excellent, cheap Czech grub fills the pub with locals.
Pension Unitas, Bartolomejska 9 (http://www.unitas.cz tel: 242 11 020), £41. If you don't mind sharing a bathroom, stay in this former prison. Basement rooms were once the cells, and many - including Vaclav Havel's - still have iron doors.
BEST PUBS AND CAFES
To eat cheaply, go to a beer hall. In the old town, at U Medvidku (Na Perstyne 7) a plateful of goulash and dumplings costs £2, and half a litre of Budvar beer is 50p.
In Mala Strana, Baracnicka Rychta (Trziste 23) is a cosy hideaway where sausages in a beery sauce cost £1.20.
If you want just a beer, find a space at one of the packed communal tables at U Zlateho tygra (Husova 17).
Even the trendiest of Prague's cafes are affordable. At Barock (Parizska 24) in the old Jewish quarter, a bowl of spinach and smoked salmon soup at lunchtime, amid photos of models in various states of undress, costs £3.
The city also has several grand Viennese-style coffee houses, including Kavarna Obecni dum (Namesti Republiky 5); Slavia, opposite the National Theatre, and the Ebel Coffee House on Tyn, the old town's prettiest courtyard.
Explosion of life and colour
The subway system will not re-open for months and some tram routes are also suspended. But Prague is a city for walkers, and with most of its principal attractions on high ground, it is as accessible as ever.
Prague is in the high mainstream of European culture - a perpetual monument to centuries of gracious living.
You could not fail to be exhilarated by the Baroque buildings ringed around Old Town Square, with their soaring spires and painted shop-fronts - an explosion of life and colour.
Charles Bridge, the principal bridge across the Vltava, is adorned by fine statues and looks particularly splendid in a dawn mist.
Prague is such good value, too. In what other A-list European city could two people enjoy a night at the opera, in the best seats, have a two-course dinner with wine and still get change from £40?
We stumbled out of a glorious production of Rigoletto, found a pretty restaurant in the Old Town and were bombarded with so much good food we stayed bombarded till breakfast.
The Czech Republic does not hold with petite salads. Its chefs just kill an animal, cook a generous portion of it in about a pint of cream, then pile high the rest of the plate with carbohydrates.
Such gastronomic excesses will not suit everybody, of course, but are typical of a feel-good city where over-indulging may be a sin but under-indulging is a crime.
Post-Cold War Prague, exulting in its new-found capitalist freedom, is not wholly attractive.
It was dismaying to see a McDonald's within 50 yards of the statue of King Wenceslas in Wenceslas Square, scene of historic demonstrations during the Velvet Revolution of 1989.
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| | | | Sightseeing and entertainment
SIGHTSEEING
The Prague Card (£11.50 from the tourist office on Old Town Square) gives unlimited use of public transport and entry to 40 museums and sights over three days. Note, however, that some major attractions are not covered.
Best free attractions: With its buskers, artists and statues, you can't beat a stroll across Charles Bridge.
Access to much of the castle - including Golden Lane (the row of cute cottages where Kafka once lived) - is free. Don't miss the changing of the guard at noon.
Avoiding the crowds: The castle and the Jewish Museum are best visited first thing in the morning, at lunchtime or teatime. At nights the castle takes on the moodiness that must have inspired Kafka.
The Foreign Office warns that pickpocketing is common at the main tourist attractions.
ENTERTAINMENT
To find out what's on, get Bohemia Ticket International's monthly programme; its office is at Male Namesti 13 in the old town.
The year's big cultural event is the Prague Spring, a music festival (http://www.festival.cz).
The Prague Post, a weekly English-language newspaper, has a useful listings section or look at http://www.praguepost.com
Relaxed good humour
Now, henna-haired prostitutes patrol the other side of the square next to seemingly endless arcades of slot machines.
Was this what the Czechs were fighting for?
But elsewhere in the city, Prague past and present enjoy a symbiotic relationship marked by relaxed good humour.
As good a starting point as any is the recently opened Museum of Communism in the city centre.
'Cash, credit cards and blatant backhanded bribes accepted at our gift shop', reads the tongue-in-cheek poster at the entrance.
It is characteristic of a beautifully crafted exhibition in which the lunacies of the Communist period - the Marxist propaganda, the dreary grocery stores, the bugging devices, the ludicrous statues of Stalin - are viewed with wry amusement.
What were almost 50 years of madness in the life of a great city?
When in Prague, visitors have a sense of so much to do, so little time. Culture vultures will be in heaven, whether they are over-dosing on the Baroque architecture, checking out hip art galleries or listening to an organ concert in a medieval church.
But in cultural terms, there is no compulsion to 'do' anything.
Just to wander the cobbled streets - following your nose towards a hidden gem of a restaurant, or your ears towards a beer cellar throbbing to the sound of jazz, or your eyes towards a breathtaking view across the river - is to share in a vibrant community.
If September 11 proved anything, it was that great cities recover from great disasters. So dry your tears and pack away your wellies. There has probably never been a better time to visit Prague.
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| | Destination Guide : Czech Republic |
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| | | Stunning architecture |  | Why go on holiday to the Czech Republic?
To explore the beautiful city of Prague with its world famous architecture, to see spectacular castles and chateaux throughout the country, to go hiking in Cesky raj National Park, take in the lakes and forests of South Bohemia and chill out in the spa towns of West Bohemia.
How much does it cost?
Prices have crept up, so shop around. At time of writing, flights to Prague can cost from £100, city centre hotels from £30, return coach travel from London (a 23-hour journey) is from £80. A nine-day escorted coach holiday is from £350. A three-night city break to Prague is from £280 outside the main tourist season. An eight-day walking holiday taking in Prague and the Tatras mountains is from £570.
When should I go?
May, June and September are the best months for uncrowded sightseeing and decent weather. April and October may be cooler but they're also cheaper. July and August are busy and expensive, both in the cities and the mountains.
Prague is open for business year-round but castles and museums in other parts of the country usually close from October or November to March or April. The Prague International Music Festival takes place in May and June and the Mozart Festival in September.
April 30 is bonfire night, when the pagan festival of Paleni Carodejnic (Burning of the Witches) takes place.
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| | | Back to nature | | What should I do when I'm there?
Prague has a stunning collection of architecture spanning 900 years and it has provided the backdrop for many a film including Mission: Impossible, starring Tom Cruise, and the award-winning Amadeus, about the life of Mozart.
Prague Castle is a highlight - it's said to be the largest ancient castle in the world. Dating back to the ninth century, it contains a royal palace and St Vitus cathedral. Pause for a coffee at one of the many pavement cafes in the baroque Old Town Square (Staromestske namesti) with its famous astronomical clock.
Visit Wenceslas Square (Vaclavak), scene of much Czech history including student Jan Palach's fatal protest against the Warsaw Pact invasion in 1969. Stroll across the busy Charles Bridge with hundreds of other tourists for some good river views and watch the sun set over the island of Kampa. One of the loveliest buildings in the city is the Municipal House (Obecni Dum) with its art nouveau interior.
What's outside Prague?
Don't miss the lovely medieval town of Cesky Krumlov in South Bohemia, with its well-preserved historic centre and the imposing chateau, perched on a hill above the river Vltava. In Central Bohemia, visit the medieval castles of Konopiste, Karlstejn and Cesky Sternberk. Heavily restored in the 18th and 19th centuries, they're all pretty impressive. See the spooky Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora, decorated with thousands of bones of monks and plague victims - there's even a chandelier made from bones. Kutna Hora itself was Bohemia's most important town after Prague in medieval times and still has some fine architecture in the compact, pedestrianised historic centre.
Visit the spa town of Karlovy Vary on the edge of the Slakov Forest Protected Landscape Region.
Where's good for walking?
One of the best places for walking is in the Cesky raj National Park in East Bohemia with its rolling hills, farmland, woods and castle ruins, rising into the foothills of the Krkonose mountains.
In North Bohemia there are good hiking trails in the steep gorges and rock formations of the Sandstone Rocks of Labe near the German border - this area is known as the Czech Switzerland.
Sumava National Park in South Bohemia has lots of walking trails within its heavily wooded, mountainous region which runs along the border with Austria and Germany - one of the most scenic is along the Vydra river, especially in the Povydri area.
If it's just a stroll you're after, try the 250-acre landscaped Pruhonice park in Central Bohemia with its exotic gardens, lakes and woods.
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| | | Arty fare | | Where's good for nightlife?
Prague is full of bustling bars and cafes, clubs (especially around Wenceslas Square) and cinemas. The Czech Republic has a huge cultural heritage and music is very much to the fore - there are regular concerts held around Prague - among the most popular are the summer concerts in the Lichtenstein Palace. Theatre is also high on the agenda, with some plays performed in English - this is a country which chose a playwright (Vaclav Havel) for a president.
Puppetry is an art form here as is black-light theatre where performers in phosphorescent costumes move against a black background combining mime, puppetry and drama. Several of the castles, including the chateau at Cesky Krumlov, stage open-air theatre in summer.
What's the food like?
Czech cuisine is hearty, with lots of meat, potatoes and dumplings - not just plain old dumplings but many varieties including plum or apricot, sprinkled with poppy seeds or topped with cottage cheese. Vegetarians should beware as non-meat dishes may be cooked in animal fat or contain small pieces of ham or bacon for flavour - check before you eat.
Seafood is not widely eaten - the most popular fish dishes are carp and trout. Fat sausages are the top snack, served on a roll with mustard, and frankfurters feature high on the list too.
Czech beer (pivo) is among the world's best and is served almost everywhere. Budvar is the biggest exporter of Czech beer, also known by the German name Budweiser but a lot stronger than the American beer of the same name. For something to really take your breath away, try slivovice, a fiery plum brandy.
What should I buy?
Bohemian glass, jewellery made from locally mined semi-precious stones including amber, rubies and Czech garnets, Czech liqueurs, including the herbal spirit Becherovka and Fernet, painted eggs and wooden toys, lacework and embroidered blouses. Browse the many antique shops in Prague but be careful about what you take home - there are strict export rules.
What is there for children to do?
Children should enjoy rambling round the numerous castles. Find out more about how people used to live at the Wallachian Open Air Museum at Roznov pod Radhosterm, one of many such folk museums around the country.
Puppetry is a real art in Prague, so visit the Museum of Marionette and Puppet Cultures in the cellar at Karlova 12 showing how puppets developed from the 17th century onwards. Also in Prague try the Toy Museum and the Transport Museum. Petrin Hill park in the capital has paddle boats, a planetarium and a funicular railway.
Tourist office
Czech Tourist Office, Suite 29-31 Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BG Tel. 0207 631 0426. Brochure line (60p a minute) 09063 640641.
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| | Fact File : Czech Republic |
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| | | Czech Republic | | Did you know?
South Bohemia holds an annual bagpipe band festival.
Language
Czech
Visas
None required.
Getting there
There are direct flights into Prague-Ruzyne airport, located 20kms from the city centre and served by a regular bus route which connects to the underground network (Dejvicka Station, Line A). You could also travel by rail or coach (a 23-hour journey) from London to Prague.
Flying time from London
Two hours.
Getting around
In Prague, most sightseeing can be done on foot in the city centre. To get around the city, use the Metro system, or the network of buses and trams. Elsewhere, Czech airlines operate domestic flights between Prague, Ostrava, Brno and Karlovy Vary. Czech Railways have a network of services - the SuperCity trains are the top of the range, followed by the Express category - similar to our InterCity trains. Most locations are served by bus and in towns and cities you'll also find trams and trolleybuses. Drivers will have to pay to travel on the motorways - stickers must be bought in advance and cost from 100Kc (about £2) for 10 days.
Currency
The Czech Crown or Koruna (Kc).
Costs
A beer is from 30p-50p but more at some Prague bars, a short taxi ride is from £4, a moderate meal for two with wine is from £10, a litre of petrol is from 60p and a roll of film for your camera from £3. Shop around, but all prices will vary.
Weather
Most of the Czech Republic has warm, showery summers and cold snowy winters with spring and autumn being changeable. Temperatures are comparable to those in the UK, though in the mountains it is bitterly cold in winter and pretty cool in summer. June, July and August tend to be the wettest months.
Time difference
One hour ahead of GMT.
International dialling code from the UK
00 420
Voltage
220v
Opening hours
Varies but generally shops open from 9am to 6pm weekdays, 9am to 1pm Saturdays with some Sunday opening. Banks open 9am to 6pm.
Health - Before you go
The Czech Republic has a reciprocal medical agreement with the UK - get an EHIC form from your local post office. Travel insurance is still advisable. If you're going trekking, typhoid, polio and Hepatitis A vaccinations are recommended.
Health - When you are there
If you plan on hiking in the popular Krkonose mountain range in East Bohemia, go well prepared in terms of clothing and footwear. It's windy and cold all year at altitude and in summer mountain fog can cause hypothermia.
Warnings
There are heavy fines for drivers if you don't display your motorway toll sticker correctly on your windscreen.
Emergency
Police 158, Fire 150, Ambulance 155.
Customs
If you visit a local resident's home and want to take them flowers, make sure you buy an even number of fresh flowers - odd numbers or dried flowers are symbols of the dead. Always take off your shoes as you enter the house, unless told not to bother.
Pets
The Czech Republic is not covered under the Pet Travel Scheme so leave your cats and dogs at home.
Tipping
5%-10%.
Tourist office
Czech Tourist Authority, Suite 29-31 Second floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street. W1B 3BG. Tel. 020 7631 0426. Brochure line (60p a minute) 09063 640641.
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| | Available rental properties in Czech Republic |
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| |  | | Prague Luxury Art Nouveau Apartment
Luxury, quiet apartment in the centre of Prague. 1 minute from Wenceslas Square. High Speed WIFI Internet. Original Art Nouveau furniture. Very Quiet.
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NEW COMFORTABLE VILLA,NEAR PRAGUE, POOL,SAUNA,FITNESS,KARAOKE BAR,BILIARD,PINGPONG,TABLE FOOTBALL,FIREPLACE,PARKING,GARDEN,BILIARD,HORSE RIDING,CYCLING,GOLF NEAR,TENNIS,MINIGOLF,GRILL,
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Traditional Splendour. Spacious and peaceful luxury apartment. Sleeps 6 in comfort from £15 pppn. Near Wenceslas Square and close to all visitor attractions.
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Quaint holiday cottage within a protected landscape area at the foothills of the Beautiful Jeseniky Mountain range. A great outdoor area for nature lovers, cycling and hiking.
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house in a small ancient village surrounded by a beautiful environment
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Holiday Rentals in Czech Republic |
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