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 |  | Travel Reviews : Dubrovnik |
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| | | | Review by Richard China from Maidstone
Had a great week in Dubrovnik, excellent villa.
Excellent points:- Facilities, hospitability, spacious rooms, views over to the sea, cleanliness, amenities, the list goes on….
Not so good points was a £15-20 taxi ride to Dubrovnik old town (only 3 miles but taxi’s are expensive in Dubrovnik) also it was on a busy road but to be fair a main bridge was closed for repair for 20 days during our stay and have been told the road is a lot lot quieter when road is not used as a divert road. Still very safe for children as there are many gates, doors and main wall to prevent children from accessing the road.
Overall and excellent week at the beautiful Dubrovnik and excellent Villa Frana with the very friendly Croatian people. Would defiantly recommend to friends and family.
Review by pauline swatton from crawley down
Dubrovnik was amazing. Spectacular scenery, good food and friendly locals. What more could we ask?
Review by robert pollard from bolton
The old town of Dubrovnik, is by far the best of its kind. The walk around the walls, although long, and not much shelter from the sun, is delightful.
Dubrovnik old town,seems to be, anything you want it to be. The evenings are busy without being over crowded, (but beware if there are more than 2 cruise ships in) You can sit on the Stradun, and watch the world go by with a cool beer. Or you can party till the early hours in some of the clubs , but these do seem to be expensive.
Its a beautiful unspoilt city, with wonderful little streets with with bars and shops to explore. the service from all is second to none in Europe.
Review by Steven and Anne Koprince from Arlington, VA
Dubrovnik was, in a word, amazing! We could not have chosen a more beautiful city for our honeymoon. Everywhere we looked we saw postcard views between the red roofs, old city, and Adriatic Sea. We had a wonderful, relaxing vacation without breaking the bank.
Risen from the ashes
Dubrovnik, one of the world's great cities, has been devastated several times in its lengthy history.
The city was crushed in an earthquake in 1667 and more lately savaged by the civil war in what was Yugoslavia.
In 1991 and 1992, 2,000 shells fell on the city - many people were killed, there was $10m of damage, homes were destroyed and looted, and the water supply was cut off.
Today you can hardly tell how much the old city of Dubrovnik was damaged, apart from a map at the entry to the city showing where the shells hit.
Replacing the area's distinctive roofs was a priority in order to preserve the interiors of the buildings. Repair workers could not find enough yellow tiles so they had to use red.
They still need a few decades of weathering to bring the character back.
Some 28 out of Dubrovnik's 50 hotels have now reopened. Some have taken the opportunity to modernise but others still feel dated.
With nearly half the accommodation shut there is a shortage of rooms, especially in the festival season of July and August when it is busy.
As it also gets particularly hot then it is better to go at the beginning or end of the season.
Dubrovnik is a city to see on foot. Enter the gates and just wander the streets worn shiny with millions of footsteps. Visit the cathedral, palaces and museums or head for the walls that surround the city - but only if you are prepared for a climb.
Most people come here to see the city and take in the culture, but Dubrovnik is on the coast and there is plenty of opportunity for relaxation.
There are beaches, albeit not very pretty ones, close to the city. Choose a hotel away from the town where the shoreline is better.
Many run a water taxi into the old city and there are regular bus services and reasonably-priced taxis.
For a relaxing day away from the city bustle, take a boat ride to the island of Lokrum nearby. It has an inland lake, which is good for children, and a naturist beach.
There are other trips to the Elafiti Islands where there are beaches and trails to explore.
Dubrovnik is ideal for a city break but the beaches and islands make it worth a longer holiday.
Travel guide: Dubrovnik
Back in sparkling form
From the Mail on Sunday
A yellowing photograph in a Dubrovnik newsagent's window shows local artist Ivo Gribic standing in front of his burning house during the shelling of the city in 1991.
His eyes transmit shock but his fist is raised in defiance. It's an image that, for me, embodies the true grit of the Croatian people, who have had it tough and come through.
Not only have they shored up, with international help, their beautiful historic port - 'the pearl of the Adriatic', whose naval clout once rivalled that of Venice - they've also managed to persuade tourists to come back in droves. Last summer more than 60,000 of us alighted on the stunning Dalmatian coast and its archipelago.
Michael Foot, the Labour politician, didn't stay away for long. For more than 20 years, he has been coming to what is now Croatia, formerly Yugoslavia, to relax at the Villa Dubrovnik hotel, perched on the cliffs a mile south of town.
To prove it, there he is on the terrace as I shuffle into my seat for lunch, looking out, as we all do, on a Rolls-Royce view of the city floating in a heat haze below. A sight that, half a millennium ago, would have cheered returning merchantmen after the long voyage from Constantinople and the Middle East.
Now that the restoration work is almost complete, Dubrovnik's old town looks equally splendid close up. You can't see the joins until they're pointed out to you: here a piece of pristine balustrade, there a paving stone that's blonder than the rest.
Only a walk round the battlements reveals the extent of the repair job: the patchwork of new terracotta on medieval roofs.
Stradun, the wide main axis, is ice-rink glossy from centuries of footfalls and the exceptionally pale limestone of which everything is built gives Dubrovnik a lightheartedness that medieval cities usually lack. Local beauties are clearly aware they look best against this background in strong colours and cafe tablecloths stand out in blood red and dark green.
I love it. No traffic (except for deliveries at certain times of day), so it's a place made for just sitting about drinking brilliant coffee and people-watching - by the harbour, below the cathedral or in the lee of Big Onofrio's fountain.
Travel guide: Dubrovnik
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| | | | Brilliant coastline
Croatia has a lot more to offer than just Dubrovnik. It has a fantastic coastline with a dramatic drive up to Split which takes about five hours.
Along the way is Makarska, a busy resort with a wide promenade of cafes and bars. It also has pebble beaches.
The resort is about two hours drive from Dubrovnik, and holiday company Thomson plans to combine them in a two centre holiday next summer.
There are direct flights to Dubrovnik from Gatwick and Manchester which take under three hours. Other flights are via Zagreb so take longer.
The currency is the kuna which you can't get in the UK but the German mark is also acceptable.
Travel facts:
Thomson Lakes and Mountains brochure has seven-night holidays in Dubrovnik from £365 in May to £595 in July and August. 0870 606 147
Nook-and-cranny shoreline
After dark, a party of us thread our way through one of Stradun's needle-thin offshoot alleys to dine in a pocket-sized square festooned with washing.
The name of the restaurant, the Domino Steak House, is uninspiring, but the menu has lots of fish. The one we order - dentex - sounds more like a brand of toothpick and the wine, Grk, like a burp but everything tastes good, costs little and maitre d' Bulic Blago, has us in fits translating the menu.
Croatian is at times a disconcerting language - people barking 'Bog!' at each other as they part company seems rude until you realise it means, 'See you soon.'
Next morning, there are two must-haves on my shopping list. One is travarica, the home-made firewater sold in recycled bottles in Gundulic Square market. Each farmer's wife flavours it with her own mix of herbs and spices. I choose one with a red chilli and wafting fennel which at first tasting burns a hole in the back of my oesophagus. But it's moreish.
The second must is a pot of anti-wrinkle cream from a still-functioning 14th Century apothecary inside the Franciscan monastery. Part museum, with huge Delft jars, filigree Roman jewellery and Gothic reliquaries, it sells natural beauty products made by monks.
Sadly, the anti-wrinkle stuff doesn't work but it makes a good after-sun cooler.
For tanning on the beaches around greater Dubrovnik's nook-and-cranny shoreline, you need a bit of cushioning. Like most on the Dalmatian Coast, they are stony - with the kind of big round pebbles that really dig in. An inflatable sunbed and plastic shoes are essential.
But the sea is really clean and bays are wooded and pretty. If you must have sand, there is always Korcula.
Of the thousand islands scattered in the emerald Adriatic, Korcula is the sixth largest and just three-and-a-half hours by ferry from Dubrovnik. It has one rare sandy bay at Lumbarda backed by the vineyards that produce Grk. Unfortunately, I go there on a rare damp day so the beach is deserted. But I can see its potential.
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| | | | Grilled garlic prawns
Korcula, 'black island' to the ancient Greeks (owing to its once thick fleece of pines, now broken by vines and olive groves), is the perfect backdrop for a week's chill-out. It has all the right ingredients - a small Venetian port full of nice corners to linger in, every imaginable craft afloat in endless picturesque inlets, a laid-back ambiance which is almost Fifties and cheap country buses to take you from here to there.
The Hotel Bon Repos seems a bit ho-hummy when I arrive - functional-looking, if comfortable - but it soon wins me over with a chilled bottle of Rukatac (one of Croatia's best whites along with Grk and Posip) and a plate of grilled garlic prawns. The gardens are pleasant, there's a pool with sunbeds unplagued by towel-bookers and a 20-minute wiggly shore walk to snake you into town.
One way or another, Korcula is a delight. The islanders have an innate reserve but you only have to look worried to draw offers of help.
They have reason, of course, to be well disposed to the British - in the wake of Serb destruction 10 years ago, 75 per cent of aid came from the UK and, going further back, Sir Fitzroy Maclean was given a grace-and-favour villa here by President Tito in recognition of his services to the partisans in the Second World War. The Maclean family still uses it.
'Marco Polo's House', in Korcula town, is the alleged birthplace of the peripatetic Venetian who wrote the first-ever travel book but the evidence is as insubstantial as the ruined shell we peer into after climbing rickety wooden stairs. Much more interesting are the sketches by Tiepolo in the little municipal museum.
Back in Dubrovnik, it's another balmy night and we eat dinner on the terrace of Orhan, below the ramparts of the castle where the RSC does a summer season. Black Adriatic waves crash over the rocks and an almost three-quarter moon casts a laser-like path across the water.
Over a final travarica, as the moon path blurs, I reflect that I've learned to say little other than 'please' and 'thank you' in Croatian, since most of those we've met have made such a good stab at English.
Still, as I check my bags in tomorrow at the airport, I shall definitely be bidding the Dalmatian Coast a resounding 'Bog!'
Travel facts:
Holidays Options (01444 244499) offers seven nights half-board in Dubrovnik and Korcula. For more information call the Croatian National Tourist Office (020 8563 7979).
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 |  | Destination Guide : Dubrovnik |
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| | | Medieval palaces |  | Why go on holiday to Dubrovnik? To explore one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the world. Impressive city walls stand guard over marble-paved squares, steep cobbled streets, and churches, palaces and museums.
How much does it cost? Expect to pay about £500 in peak season for one week's half-board at a three-star hotel, including flight from the UK.
A cheaper option can be to rent a room (sobe) privately. Negotiate a price with anyone who approaches you at the ferry or bus terminal.
You'll pay roughly £9.50-£17 per night depending on the room and season, with a 30% surcharge for stays of fewer than three nights (breakfast not included).
When should I go? The town is packed with Italian holidaymakers in July and August. May, June and September are quieter - and the weather and the sea are warm enough for swimming.
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| | | Restored to former glory | | What should I do when I'm there? Dubrovnik was badly damaged by Serbian forces who shelled the Old City for seven months in 1991-92. A massive regeneration project has now restored most of the buildings to their former glory. The Old City has many museums, palaces and churches to admire.
What should I not miss? Walk around the city walls, which have fabulous views over Dubrovnik's ancient rooftops. The imposing Dominican monastery in the north-east of the city is well worth a visit.
Placa is Dubrovnik's beautiful pedestrian promenade and is home to many of the sights, including the lovely Italian baroque church of St Blaise.
Are there any special events in Dubrovnik? See one of more than 100 performances at different venues in the old town during the Dubrovnik Festival, a major cultural event which takes place from mid-July to mid-August.
Are there any good day trips? Take the 10-minute ferry crossing to the island of Lokrum, which has lots of rocky coves for sunbathing - including one beach for naturists.
Cavtat, a former Illyrian settlement which curves around a pretty harbour, is only 20km from Dubrovnik. It has several interesting old buildings, including a Franciscan monastery and an elaborate mausoleum to the Racic family.
In the summer, escape the crowds by taking a boat to one of the Elafiti islands north-west of Dubrovnik, which offer interesting historical sites, pretty beaches, olive groves, pine forests and orchards.
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| | | Entertainment al fresco | | Where's good for nightlife? The most popular disco is Sun City Disco, next to the bus station. Techno fans will want to head down to the tented, 6,000-capacity Divine Folie disco in Babinkuk.
A more sedate evening could consist of watching a film by starlight at the open-air cinema on Kumicica in Lapad, or having a drink on the open-air terraces overlooking the sea at Club Nautika.
What's the food like? Good seafood, pasta, local ham and cheese. Pizza is often excellent and budget-friendly, costing about half of what you'd pay in Western Europe.
Local cuisine is generally hearty: lots of meat stews, sausages and - for a treat - stuffed cabbage leaves. Local wines can be good - but go steady on the fiery local brandy.
What should I buy? Intricate lace is a Croatian specialty and you'll find it in handicraft shops in the town. Other traditional crafts include wood carvings, woollen and leather items, tapestries, national costumes, ceramics, carpets and filigree jewellery.
What is there for children to do? The aquarium at St John Fort (Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm) goes down well with kids, but besides the beaches there's little else laid-on specifically for children.
Tourist office Croatian National Tourist Office, 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London W6 9ER. Tel. 020 8563 7979.
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 |  | Fact File : Dubrovnik |
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| | | Dubrovnik | | Did you know? Dubrovnik has the third-oldest working pharmacy in Europe, dating from 1391.
Language Croatian
Visas None required from the UK.
Getting there Direct scheduled flights from Gatwick and Manchester, and charter flights.
Flying time from London Two hours 40 minutes
Getting around A good bus service links the Old City with hotels on the Lapad Peninsula on the outskirts of Dubrovnik. Ferries serve islands such as Mljet and Hvar.
Currency Kuna
Costs Moderate restaurant meal £12, night in a middle-range hotel £18-£32 (depending on season), bottle of beer 95p, 36-exposure camera film £3, litre of petrol 55p, four-mile taxi ride £8-£9.
Weather Hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters. Summer temperatures range from 69-85F (20C-30C) and winter 50-57F (10C-14C).
Time difference One hour ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK 00 385 20
Voltage 220V, 50 Hz AC. Croatia uses the standard European round-pronged plugs.
Opening hours Shops open 8am-7pm weekdays, 8am-2pm on Saturdays, and banks 8am-5pm weekdays (sometimes with a lunch hour), 8am-noon on Saturdays.
Health - Before you go No special jabs needed. The tap water is a tad over-chlorinated but safe to drink. Bring an EHIC card from the UK, entitling you to free medical care in Croatia if needed. You may need travel insurance covering snorkelling, rock-climbing, diving, etc.
Health - When you are there Remember you can get sunburnt even when there's cloud cover, so wear sunscreen.
Warnings Croatian hotels are being given a facelift but at some hotels not all rooms are being refurbished. Before booking, check that your hotel and room has already been upgraded.
Emergency Police tel 92, ambulance 94, emergency road help 987. British Embassy Vlaska 121/III, 10000 Zagreb. Tel 01 455 5310
Customs Don't refer to Croatia as Yugoslavia.
Pets You may bring your pet into Croatia, with the correct paperwork, but it will have to undergo six months in quarantine if you want to bring it back into the UK.
Tipping 10% in restaurants, unless service charge is included. Loose change in taxis and bars.
Tourist office Croatian National Tourist Office, 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London W6 9ER. Tel 020 8563 7979.
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 |  | Available rental properties in Dubrovnik |
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| |  | | Art Studio Villa Apartment is a part of the art studio gallery "Marijan" with artistic surrounding among 50 sculptures, made from marble and bronze with a great view to the Lapad bay. Perfect for families.
|  | | Villa Katarina Stylish contemporary villa with pool maintaining traditional Dalmatian values offers 5 elegant adjacent apartments with stunning Adriatic views just a 5 minute drive from the Old Town
|  | | Dubrovnik apartments - Dolphin An apartment within a large Villa with full equipment, DVD, surround, DVD films, near the beach, sea view, with opened Jacuzzi, sauna...
|  | | Dubrovnik apartments - Syren An apartment within a large Villa with full equipment, DVD, surround, DVD films, near the beach, sea view, with opened Jacuzzi, sauna...
|  | | Dubrovnik apartments - Karaka An apartment within a large Villa with full equipment, DVD, surround, LCD TV in both rooms, near the beach, sea view, with opened Jacuzzi, sauna...
| Holiday Rentals in Dubrovnik |
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 |  | Family and kids (9) |  |  | Culture and history (7) |  |  | Beautiful Scenery (3) |  |  | Unspoilt and charming (3) |  |  | Good dining (1) |
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