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| | | | Eating out is so wild in this horn of plenty
From the Mail on Sunday
When I arrived at Galdessa it was the rainy season, a sultry afternoon under a dark sky. A man in khaki shorts and shirt offered me mango juice on a tray at the small, dusty airstrip, and a wet towel at the entrance to the 16-bed lodge in Tsavo East National Park, Kenya.
A bright blue-and-orange agama lizard baked on the stone outside the main mess. Golden weaver birds fluttered through tall palms, the ground was carpeted in fragile blue flowers and bright green grass led down to the swirling waters of the Galana River.
I had been told of the beauty of Galdessa, which means baboon in Walungulu, the language of the tribe which used to live in Tsavo. And that the managers, Johann du Doit and his Malaysian girlfriend Marina Amansham, would do everything to make me comfortable. But I was also told this was to compensate for a lack of game viewing because the seasonally thick bush makes it difficult to see the animals.
At Galdessa, however, they come to you. Less than three hours after I arrived, I was standing 4ft from a huge and very wild elephant. We had just finished a meal of wild-spinach ravioli and fillet steak and had settled in the open-sided sitting room for coffee, when two 3ft tusks and a trunk appeared under the low makuti roof (a thatch made of coconut palm).
It is one thing to view an elephant from the safety of a Land Rover; it's quite another to look up at a great beast silhouetted against a starry sky. Hidden by the low roof, I moved forward until I was so close he could have touched me. But even when he drifted off, bored and apparently still oblivious to his audience, the cabaret wasn't over. Barely had we drunk our coffee than Johann belted across the room: 'Would you like to see a puff adder?'
Not wanting to seem a party pooper, I peered into the bushes outside the mess tent where Johann was jabbing at something on the ground with a forked stick. Johann is a snake man, has been ever since he was a child in the farming community of north-western Kenya, close to the Ugandan border. Now it was his turn for an adrenaline fix as he showed how to pick up the long, fat and dangerous snake which, like all others found at Galdessa, was bagged up and driven well away from the camp before being released.
It was a salutary reminder that the Kenyan bush is very real. When night closes in the hippos, which by day can be heard honking harmlessly in the river, haul themselves out of the water to graze on the riverbank around the bandas (huts).
Physically exhausted after long walks and fresh air, I always slept too soundly to hear them. But one sleepy, still afternoon, I was treated to the sight of a large hippo rolling down the middle of the river. Six times I counted four stumpy legs sticking skywards, before racing to my bedroom for a better view.
Banda One, with a wide platform on stilts jutting out over the sandy banks, has the perfect view over the river. Safe on my vantage point, I could click my camera with abandon. But now Marina was calling me to see another elephant that had entered the camp.
Travel guide: Kenya
Excellent beaches and friendly locals
Excellent beaches, although the beach boys can be a bit off-putting, but very friendly. The hotels all have swimming pools and you can relax under the coconut trees.
The waiters will even climb the trees to get you a fresh coconut. Mombasa has so much to offer from the old town to the gold shops. The safaris were excellent and we saw all the big five, with the exception of the rhino.
The Kenyan people are so friendly and willing to show you their way of life.
Travel guide: Kenya
Into the wilds of Kenya
Back in 1993, three children at Bury Church of England High School, where my wife Jackie teaches, approached her saying, "We want to do something for wildlife", writes Teletext viewer Ray Vet, of Lancashire.
They started by sponsoring an elephant and a rhino and since that initial first step, the group has continued to grow and has raised over £75,000 for conservation and education projects.
Five children and four ex-pupils from the school were told they would travel to Kenya in October to deliver their latest cheque for £10,000.
On October 22, we set off to Nairobi and went to the Serena Hotel. After breakfast we headed up the road to meet Daphne Sheldrick at her house on the edge of the Nairobi National Park.
Here, the children were then taken into the bush for a hands-on session with the orphaned elephants. Then it was back to the hotel to relax by the pool.
The next day we visited the Langata Giraffe Centre, where you can be literally head to head with them - the children of course thought this was great fun.
After checking out of the hotel, we headed south to Kilaguni Lodge in Tsavo West National Park. As we had lunch, two families of elephants came to drink at the waterhole right in front of the open restaurant. The afternoon was taken up by relaxing round the pool followed by a game drive, taking in Mzima Springs - inhabited by families of hippos.
Whilst walking to and from the buses, we were provided with an armed guide - you never know - there were crocodiles in sight on the far bank of the spring.
We had an early game drive the next morning and saw giraffe, buffalo, gazelles, kudu, zebra, secretary birds and ostriches. After breakfast, we were again escorted by an armed guard as we set off for a game walk with the lodge's naturalist all the time pointing out things that we would never have been aware of. When he pointed out the lion paw prints, he certainly had everyone's attention.
After lunch we planted three trees and then it was back to the pool for a well-earned rest, followed by another game drive before the evening meal.
Our next destination was Salt Lick Safari Lodge, where the rooms are on stilts. We did another game drive and then met the general manager who invited us to his house right next to the lodge where two lionesses and three cubs had wandered into his back garden. We were up early for another game drive at 6.30am, followed by breakfast then a very interesting talk about the sanctuary.
After lunch we spent a very leisurely afternoon by the pool at the sister lodge, Taita Hills. As darkness fell we were treated to a night game drive with lots of eyes reflecting back at us and lots of nocturnal creatures that we hadn't heard of. It was quite a novelty to see a sleeping ostrich.
Once back at the lodge, we had the unique and unforgettable experience of being able to get close to several families of wild elephants, many with tiny calves, as they came to the waterhole to drink.
On October 29, we were back on the road, heading for Voi Safari Lodge to meet Daphne Sheldrick and the BBC crew who would be filming our group for the Really Wild Show.
We went off to the mud wallow to film and see the older elephant orphans who had been moved to Tsavo East from Nairobi to begin their rehabilitation into the wild. The mud wallow is one of their daily rituals and makes good filming.
After lunch, we headed for Ore School where we were greeted very warmly and treated to a dance extravaganza and songs. The group had raised money for the school, which included paying for a new water pipe. The buildings had been mainly constructed by parents breaking up rocks and constructing them themselves. What commitment.
We also offered the school books and games that were greatly appreciated. The biggest cheer was for the set of goal posts to replace the sticks they were using. What an afternoon that was.
Travel guide: Kenya
Masai elephant I'll never forget
From the Daily Mail
Oterira, the muscular Masai scout and guide, moved silently, effortlessly, in the coarse grass that cut into my ankles.
He seemed not to notice the searing sun that made his skin shine as he paused regularly at the shrubs and trees to reveal their secrets.
One, its rough surface like sandpaper, is used, said Oterira, for just that - to smooth the wood still used for weapons and in the Masai homesteads. He crushed a deep green leaf in his hand and a red sap appeared. This is used to dye clothes and provide the brilliant 'streaks' that scar the faces of tribesmen.
The dusk walk in the exposed Kenyan wastelands of the sprawling Masai Mara is a daily event for Oterira, but for the tourists who accompany him it is a unique chance to learn about a way of life that has changed little with generations and to experience the magnificent game reserve on foot.
Attached to the Sarova Mara, one of the network of discreet tented camps expertly camouflaged beneath dense lush vegetation around the sprawling reserve, Oterira is on hand to guide you through the list of game - elephant, zebra, impala, cheetah, giraffe, tobi and leopard - drinking as the sun goes down at the watering hole metres from the door of your luxurious mosquito-free tent.
He is there, too, to identify the rasping cicadas, croaking tree frogs, birds, monkeys and wild animals that make up the park's own natural orchestra.
For me, however, his greatest skill was in knowing where to find the lions and cheetahs, with their tiny cubs at play hidden beside a dried-up creek.
One young lion suckled at the milk of its mother, her head always alert and tilted towards us. Her partner, his huge mane failing to disguise the scars of combat on his cheeks, dozed beside a partly eaten gazelle carcass.
The following dawn, as I drifted gracefully in a hot-air balloon over the savannah and grazing animals, we flew over the precise spot of the creek where the lions had been. All that remained were hyena, who had expertly cleaned the bones of the gazelle.
Men such as Oterira are playing a key role in the reinvention of Kenya as an environmentally friendly, conservation- conscious tourist destination, providing for the first time an insight, not just a glimpse, of life in East Africa.
Travel guide: Kenya
Closest thing to paradise
Although my fourth visit to Kenya is rapidly approaching I have seen only a small percentage of its beauty and variety, writes Teletext Holidays viewer Julie Fahey, of Northwich, Cheshire.
Each visit begins at the amazing Travellers Club, north of Mombasa, which sits snugly on the edge of a beautiful, white sand beach. It leads down to a huge crescent-shaped bay, enclosed by a semi-circular coral reef.
The Indian Ocean is an inviting azure blue, but dippers are advised to wear beach shoes as the hidden coral can be painful for unprotected toes.
Along the beach, there are always locals eager to earn a few shillings by taking you on a beach safari. This involves wading through the tropical waters and spotting the delightful and sometimes comical sealife - starfish, tiny lobsters, urchins and sea cucumbers.
The beach traders can be a bit tiresome though if you're firm but polite and promise them a little trade later in the holiday - but only if you mean it - they will leave you in peace.
The Travellers Club has a fantastic introduction to the excitement of the safari. If you go all-inclusive, you will be able to enjoy a brilliant two day safari to the hotel's own elephant sanctuary, Mwaluganje. It must be the closest thing to paradise.
To wake up in a luxury tent in the morning to find 20 wild elephants enjoying their morning mud bath only 30 yards from the breakfast table was like a dream come true for me.
However, to be sat in an open-sided safari vehicle and be charged by a five-ton bull elephant is a different matter altogether. Our driver was very experienced and was able to get out of the way fast. Although I'm not fluent in Swahili, I'm sure the air went a shade of blue!
For those less enthusiastic about wildlife, a trip into Mombasa is essential. Traffic jams abound, as there are few working traffic lights in the centre of town. In seconds, road junctions become blocked by cars, all jammed bumper-to-bumper.
It is hilarious to see a police officer appear, jump onto the bonnet of the car nearest to the centre of the junction, and begin frantically waving his arms, spinning around and around, until finally the traffic becomes mobile again.
There is also a wealth of history in Mombasa. The Old Town is not to be missed. The town square looks like the backdrop for a '50s black and white film, along with the port. Here, labourers sit day after day, waiting to get a few hours' work unloading the ships that come into the old harbour maybe once or twice a week. For culinary shoppers there are spice shops and the famous slave market, now used as a fruit and vegetable market.
And no visit to Mombasa is complete without driving under the giant tusks erected over Moi Avenue, in honour of the visit of the late Princess Margaret in the '60s.
Travel guide: Kenya
Cheating the ivory poachers
The ivory hunters are back in business. Rangers from the Kenya Wildlife Service discovered the decomposing carcasses of a herd of 10 elephants in the Tsavo East National Park last month in the worst case of ivory poaching in the region for a quarter of a century.
The bloody tusks of seven others were discovered nearby. In a related incident, four poachers were killed last week by the authorities in an exchange of gunfire on the edge of the park.
After more than a decade of relative safety for these magnificent beasts, since the introduction of a worldwide ban on the sale of ivory in 1989, the murderous trade in elephant tusks is again on the rise.
Official figures make grim reading. Last year 57 elephants were killed for their ivory, according to the wildlife service. The true total is certain to be far higher.
But the future for the Kenyan elephant population - of which 80 per cent were said to have been killed in a 20-year orgy of killing in the Seventies and Eighties - is not all bleak.
I travelled to Kenya to present Wild At Art, a film focusing on the work of wildlife artist Gary Hodges and conservationist Daphne Sheldrick, who has devoted her life to saving the last remaining wild elephants.
Daphne runs a remarkable orphanage for infant elephants, abandoned as worthless by the poachers because they do not have tusks.
Other inmates may have lost contact with their herd after being trapped by some man-made object such as a drain, a well or a snare.
Either way, they would soon fall victim to the ruthless predators of the African savannah unless they were rescued by Daphne's staff.
I first met Daphne nearly 20 years ago when I narrated her life story for a Survival programme for ITV. Through her, I became deeply and passionately involved in wildlife conservation.
This was to be my third visit to her elephant orphanage on the edges of Nairobi National Park.
Travel guide: Kenya
Prides and Joy
My mother blames David Attenborough, personally I say it's Joy Adamson. Whoever's responsible though, there's no getting away from the fact I love lions, writes Teletext Holidays viewer Sue Williams, of Pontypool, Monmouthshire.
Therefore, when my planned trip to Tanzania in October last year was cancelled at the last moment I could not be persuaded to go to Italy or Costa Rica - it had to be Africa and those lions.
I eventually got on an eight-day safari to Kenya. Aside from an initial stay in the hotel, we were due to spend the rest of the time under canvas, which worried me greatly.
On arrival in Nairobi, I spent nearly two hours going through the visa procedure (next time I'll get one before I go) before meeting my four fellow travellers and the company's guide.
The rest of the day was spent going through the itinerary for the week, exploring the hotel, eating and then grabbing some much-needed sleep - before heading off for the start of the real holiday.
During the first couple of days we had lunch at the Aberdare Country Club. Then we went to The Ark and also visited Sweetwaters Tented Camp. Both places were lovely and I saw an array of animals. I stayed up all night once listening to hyenas laughing in the distance. It was a strange and unforgettable experience.
However, the high points of the holiday were the times spent in Samburu and the Masai Mara. I'd been fortunate enough to visit South Africa and had seen much wildlife there, including a stunningly beautiful leopard, but nothing could prepare me for the quantity of animals in Kenya.
On our first afternoon's drive we saw gerenuks, dikdiks, impalas, buffaloes, giraffes and more elephants in 10 minutes than I saw the whole time I was in South Africa.
The highlight of the day came right at the end when we saw two lionesses taking a drink of water. They walked past our vehicle, rolled around and generally entertained us for 10 minutes before we left to give them peace for the night. We were also shown the area where Joy Adamson gave Elsa the lioness her freedom.
The next day, between our two game drives, I took a walk along the river bank at our camp. It was so peaceful and with only monkeys for company it was easy to forget about humdrum life.
Back out on the game drives we saw more elephants, including several calves, as well as bat-eared foxes, banded mongooses, more lions, warthogs and the second of the animals I really wanted to see - a female cheetah. They really are beautiful and so graceful.
The Samburu National Park is a special place and I did not think it could get any better than that. How wrong I was. Our final destination was the Masai Mara, which we reached by light aircraft.
Like many people I've seen natural history programmes on Africa and marvelled at the open plains of the Mara. However, nothing can prepare you for the beauty, space and amount of animals in this incredible place. There were wildebeest, impalas, gazelles, and buffaloes as far as the eye could see.
We saw where the great crossing of the wildebeest migration takes place and, like the crocodiles, we waited patiently for something to cross. Unfortunately nothing did, but it didn't matter. Just being there was a thrill.
Travel guide: Kenya
Into the wilds of Kenya
Back in 1993, three children at Bury Church of England High School, where my wife Jackie teaches, approached her saying, "We want to do something for wildlife", writes Teletext viewer Ray Vet, of Lancashire.
They started by sponsoring an elephant and a rhino and since that initial first step, the group has continued to grow and has raised over £75,000 for conservation and education projects.
Five children and four ex-pupils from the school were told they would travel to Kenya in October to deliver their latest cheque for £10,000.
On October 22, we set off to Nairobi and went to the Serena Hotel. After breakfast we headed up the road to meet Daphne Sheldrick at her house on the edge of the Nairobi National Park.
Here, the children were then taken into the bush for a hands-on session with the orphaned elephants. Then it was back to the hotel to relax by the pool.
The next day we visited the Langata Giraffe Centre, where you can be literally head to head with them - the children of course thought this was great fun.
After checking out of the hotel, we headed south to Kilaguni Lodge in Tsavo West National Park. As we had lunch, two families of elephants came to drink at the waterhole right in front of the open restaurant. The afternoon was taken up by relaxing round the pool followed by a game drive, taking in Mzima Springs - inhabited by families of hippos.
Whilst walking to and from the buses, we were provided with an armed guide - you never know - there were crocodiles in sight on the far bank of the spring.
We had an early game drive the next morning and saw giraffe, buffalo, gazelles, kudu, zebra, secretary birds and ostriches. After breakfast, we were again escorted by an armed guard as we set off for a game walk with the lodge's naturalist all the time pointing out things that we would never have been aware of. When he pointed out the lion paw prints, he certainly had everyone's attention.
After lunch we planted three trees and then it was back to the pool for a well-earned rest, followed by another game drive before the evening meal.
Our next destination was Salt Lick Safari Lodge, where the rooms are on stilts. We did another game drive and then met the general manager who invited us to his house right next to the lodge where two lionesses and three cubs had wandered into his back garden. We were up early for another game drive at 6.30am, followed by breakfast then a very interesting talk about the sanctuary.
After lunch we spent a very leisurely afternoon by the pool at the sister lodge, Taita Hills. As darkness fell we were treated to a night game drive with lots of eyes reflecting back at us and lots of nocturnal creatures that we hadn't heard of. It was quite a novelty to see a sleeping ostrich.
Once back at the lodge, we had the unique and unforgettable experience of being able to get close to several families of wild elephants, many with tiny calves, as they came to the waterhole to drink.
On October 29, we were back on the road, heading for Voi Safari Lodge to meet Daphne Sheldrick and the BBC crew who would be filming our group for the Really Wild Show.
We went off to the mud wallow to film and see the older elephant orphans who had been moved to Tsavo East from Nairobi to begin their rehabilitation into the wild. The mud wallow is one of their daily rituals and makes good filming.
After lunch, we headed for Ore School where we were greeted very warmly and treated to a dance extravaganza and songs. The group had raised money for the school, which included paying for a new water pipe. The buildings had been mainly constructed by parents breaking up rocks and constructing them themselves. What commitment.
We also offered the school books and games that were greatly appreciated. The biggest cheer was for the set of goal posts to replace the sticks they were using. What an afternoon that was.
Travel guide: Kenya
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| | | | Reviving the rhino
If Galdessa is Tsavo's answer to Piccadilly Circus, it is as much due to the people behind the makuti walls as the managers in the mess. Hidden behind the mess tent is a hive of old-fashioned activity. In the laundry hut, clothes are pressed with an old charcoal iron. The tailor makes everything from mosquito nets to bush shower buckets and the carpenter takes care of damage done by the tropical storms which let loose for an hour and then retreat, leaving behind a cool, fresh breeze.
For those who venture out of camp, the rewards are vast. When the camp was opened in 1991, poaching was rife in Tsavo East. There were fewer than 2,000 elephants in the 6,800 square miles of parkland. Today there are 8,100. But the rhino story is the greatest achievement for the Kenya Wildlife Service rangers, with whom Galdessa works very closely.
That afternoon we went fishing for tilapia in a quiet lugga - a seasonal river - with the rangers who, in theory, are there to protect us from over-friendly crocodiles, but actually spent most of their time unravelling my fishing line.
Oliver Mnyambo, the area's security officer, came with us. 'Fifteen years ago, there were 20 rhinos on that bank,' he said, pointing across the river to where a Nile monitor dozed on a rock. 'But by 1990 they were all poached.' It is with pride that Oliver, who set up a rhino protection unit in 1993, told me that today there are 35 rhino and four babies and that there has been no poaching since 1992. Galdessa donates a percentage of its profits to the charity Tusk Trust, to help step up its breeding programme.
One morning the rangers took us rhino tracking. We got up early, before the sun grew too hot, and for three hours tiptoed through the bush. There were plenty of clues; steaming dung and bits of red mud caught on branches. But, as time went on and we kept returning to the same spot, we called it a day.
It didn't matter. I had enough stories to tell and, besides, one of the most special things had been the opportunity to just sit and listen. In only a couple of days I had learnt to distinguish the chatty and mournful calls of the slate-coloured boubou and the grey-headed kingfisher and the gentle cooing of the morning dove. I could recognise the call of the white-browed coucal, or bottle bird, which warns of forthcoming rain, and the redheaded and rare groundbill.
The bush is not for the elephant-shy, or those with a fear of snakes or spiders. But for anyone else, Galdessa is truly out of Africa.
Making friends with elephants and hippos
On October 30, we had a rendezvous with Daphne and the BBC crew again. Filming started at the group's first major project, the borehole, where a water bowser was filled up. The bowser is the latest project and the group have contributed £10,000 of the £23,000 price tag.
We then met the assistant warden of Tsavo East National Park and left numerous items for him to pass on to the Voi Education Centre. Then it was lunch at Tahri camp.
The rest of the day was taken up filming at the three windmills that are continuously pumping water and are the only source of water for the animals in the southern area of Tsavo East National Park. These windmills are situated at Ndara Plain, Dida Harea and Aruba Dam. Although the schedule was very demanding, the group had a great time during the filming, splashing in the water, singing in the buses and being interviewed by television presenter Michaela Strachan.
It was then another dash back to Satao camp before dark, but we did have time to slow down when we saw two cheetahs that seemed to be concentrating very hard on finding a meal. As we were getting ready for the evening meal one of the hippos from the waterhole near the camp strolled within 20 yards of our tent.
On November 1, we made the three-and-a-half hour journey to the Mombasa coast where we visited Haller Park to see a remarkable ecosystem. This is an area of land that used to belong to the cement works nearby and before Dr Haller worked his miracles on it, all that was there was a complete wasteland. It is now a thriving natural park and education centre.
After a light lunch followed by a guided tour we moved on to the Serena Beach Hotel where sun beds were organised in the gardens adjacent to the beach and all of us enjoyed the rest of the afternoon in the warm sunshine.
The next three days were spent enjoying the hotel's facilities: the inevitable sunbathing, the beach, camel riding, the swimming pool, various sporting activities, the wonderful food and not to forget the hotel parrot. One of the days was taken up by a scuba diving try-a-dive course too.
We also visited Bombolulu, a centre that is self-funding where disabled people make some very good quality items that can be purchased in the extensive shop. Lots of the group's remaining spending money was handed over here, safe in the knowledge that it would be used in support of the centre. After photographs and more goodbyes, we flew back to Nairobi and then back to Manchester via Amsterdam.
I know that the whole group consider their time in Kenya was a trip of a lifetime and certainly an experience they will never forget.
A lake of shimmering pink
Many camps and lodges, which have solar power and biodegradable waste disposal facilities, have established close relations with local communities, which receive employment, and fees for development funds being used for projects such as the local primary school and medical services.
The Masai Mara is a 40-minute light aircraft flight or five-hour drive from Nairobi, while Lake Naivasha and nearby Lake Nakuru, where we were greeted by traditional singers at the enchanting Nakuru Lodge before marvelling at the flamingos that turn the lake's surface into shimmering pink, are a two-hour drive to the west.
However, those who choose to bypass the Kenyan capital will miss a chance to meet, touch and learn about animals in a way they never can in the reserves.
For at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, on the edge of the capital, orphaned elephants and rhinos are cared for.
It was there that I met and fell in love with Mwanzi and her large twinkling earth-brown eyes. Fellow travellers wondered aloud how I could call a creature that weighed 200lb at birth 'adorable', but I did.
Perhaps it was the fact that she was an orphan, found alone near Uganda's border with Kenya, or perhaps it was the fact that at two months old she still didn't know how to use her trunk.
Tiny for her age, she is one of dozens of elephants saved, raised and returned to wild by the trust, run by Daphne Sheldrick.
Incredibly, the joke about an elephant's memory appears to be true - they never forget. One reared by the keepers 16 years ago recently returned to show them her own calf.
For the tourists who visit to see how as its inhabitants are trained to live, to hunt and to survive in East Africa's vast game reserves, it is a thrilling and unforgettable experience.
Travel facts Kenya Tourist Board, tel: 0207 355 3145. Flights: Kenya Airways, tel: 01784 888222. Internally, tel: Air Kenya 00 25 4260 5745. Sarova Hotels (Sarova Mara Camp), tel: 00 25 4271 3333. Balloon rides: Transworld Safaris, Kenya Ltd. Nairobi 29570.
Best of the bush
Kenya is the land of national parks, the largest being Tsavo, divided into East and West by the main Mombasa to Nairobi road. The vastness of the parks is overwhelming. It was on a safari through East Tsavo that our Land Rover had to stop to allow a 30-strong troop of elephants, including a six-month-old calf, amble across the track just ahead of us.
It was an hour later when the same troop arrived at the waterhole just below the dining area, and I'm sure I saw the baby of the group jump up and try to swat a bird with its skinny little trunk. That is an image that will live with me forever.
On my last visit to Kenya, we visited the Masai Mara, flying in an 18-seater plane from Mombasa airport to the Ngebele airstrip. That was a journey to remember as we passed only a few miles from Mount Kilimanjaro along the border with Tanzania.
Here wildlife abounds, and the sights will stun any wildlife lover beyond belief. A pride of 20 lions being chased by elephants, a lioness dragging a freshly killed wildebeest into the bush where her young cubs waited impatiently, and two young cheetahs hiding from the heat under the only bush for miles around. The sound of a lioness gently mewing deep in her throat to urge her seven cubs to follow her across the plain. A group of majestic giraffe elegantly grazing on acacia trees, conveniently located at head height.
The highlight of the Mara safari was on the second morning, when we left camp at 6am to drive out onto the plains to watch the sun come up over the distant escarpment.
This was a beauty no photograph could capture. Then at 9.30am, our guide served us a full English breakfast as we sat on blankets above the banks of the River Mara. About 20ft below us, we were being serenaded by a group of hippos wallowing in the water. They were making some very rude-sounding noises and laughing at their own impudence. I think we can forgive them for that.
I have barely started on my journey through Kenya. No matter how many times I visit this beautiful place, there will always be more to see.
I could reveal more about the sights and experiences to be seen and had in Kenya, but I think somethings should be left for future travellers to discover for themselves.
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Magical little creatures
A close friend and collaborator of Daphne's, Gary draws exquisitely in pencil and uses his own photographs for reference.
We were to spend three days filming at the orphanage and the remainder of the time in Tsavo East National Park - halfway between Nairobi and Mombasa and home to Kenya's largest population of wild elephants - where Daphne's orphans are returned to the wild.
At the Nairobi orphanage, after exchanging warm hugs with Daphne and her daughter Jill, we set off to find the six infant elephants now living there, who were out in the bush with their keepers.
The sight of these magical little creatures in their brightly coloured blankets brought a lump to my throat.
Vulnerable, traumatised and sometimes injured, they are so trusting of their keepers, so protective of each other and yet curious and playful, just like human children.
Slowly, they surrounded us and started shoving and inspecting us. Down on hands and knees, Gary and I were soon blowing into trunks and revelling in the huge privilege of contact with these intelligent mammals.
In normal circumstances, milk-dependent baby elephants like these would live in a large matriarchal herd, spending much of their day under their mothers or other females in the herd.
They would have constant physical contact. They would be looked after like priceless gems.
The devotion of their natural mothers is replaced by the dedicated and caring keepers that work for Daphne.
Touchingly, the little elephants soon become very attached to their human foster parents.
They are with them 24 hours a day, and constantly seek reassurance by clamping their trunks on to nose, ear, mouth or neck, particularly when being given their bottles.
Rah rah super Mara
On our first venture into the Mara we came across a pride of lions with about 10 cubs. We watched them for half an hour and it is a 30-minute-period I will never forget. They played with each other, looked out for one another and I'm sure they observed as much about us than we did of them.
During our next couple of visits we saw more lion cubs, jackals and their pups, more topi, vultures, eagles and a cheetah and her cub resting under a tree. Seeing all these animals where they belong is something to treasure and it is important we make sure they are protected.
At one stage we had a stark reminder of how fragile and vulnerable these animals are.
We were taken to see three rhinos which, although living wild in the Mara, had constant human company in the form of five armed guards to protect them from poachers. While having a lot of anger towards these poachers, it is the westerners who buy bits of these animals for decoration or supposed medicines that I have the biggest problem with.
I've spent most of this time telling you about the animals of Kenya, however my story wouldn't be complete without a mention of the local people. They're warm, welcoming, knowledgeable, good-humoured and proud of their country's animals.
And those worries I had about the tents were unfounded. They proved a better class of accommodation than most hotels I have stayed in in London. And the hippos were a much better class of neighbour.
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Making friends with elephants and hippos
On October 30, we had a rendezvous with Daphne and the BBC crew again. Filming started at the group's first major project, the borehole, where a water bowser was filled up. The bowser is the latest project and the group have contributed £10,000 of the £23,000 price tag.
We then met the assistant warden of Tsavo East National Park and left numerous items for him to pass on to the Voi Education Centre. Then it was lunch at Tahri camp.
The rest of the day was taken up filming at the three windmills that are continuously pumping water and are the only source of water for the animals in the southern area of Tsavo East National Park. These windmills are situated at Ndara Plain, Dida Harea and Aruba Dam. Although the schedule was very demanding, the group had a great time during the filming, splashing in the water, singing in the buses and being interviewed by television presenter Michaela Strachan.
It was then another dash back to Satao camp before dark, but we did have time to slow down when we saw two cheetahs that seemed to be concentrating very hard on finding a meal. As we were getting ready for the evening meal one of the hippos from the waterhole near the camp strolled within 20 yards of our tent.
On November 1, we made the three-and-a-half hour journey to the Mombasa coast where we visited Haller Park to see a remarkable ecosystem. This is an area of land that used to belong to the cement works nearby and before Dr Haller worked his miracles on it, all that was there was a complete wasteland. It is now a thriving natural park and education centre.
After a light lunch followed by a guided tour we moved on to the Serena Beach Hotel where sun beds were organised in the gardens adjacent to the beach and all of us enjoyed the rest of the afternoon in the warm sunshine.
The next three days were spent enjoying the hotel's facilities: the inevitable sunbathing, the beach, camel riding, the swimming pool, various sporting activities, the wonderful food and not to forget the hotel parrot. One of the days was taken up by a scuba diving try-a-dive course too.
We also visited Bombolulu, a centre that is self-funding where disabled people make some very good quality items that can be purchased in the extensive shop. Lots of the group's remaining spending money was handed over here, safe in the knowledge that it would be used in support of the centre. After photographs and more goodbyes, we flew back to Nairobi and then back to Manchester via Amsterdam.
I know that the whole group consider their time in Kenya was a trip of a lifetime and certainly an experience they will never forget.
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| | | | Overwhelming desire to cuddle
Trunks are incredibly versatile instruments containing about 90,000 muscles. But, before they have fully learned how to master these appendages, the young elephants look very comical.
Blowing into the tip of the trunk gives them your scent - like blowing into a horse's nostrils - and after the first day it became apparent that we were remembered by this routine.
Little elephants smell like babies, milky and yeasty. I had an overwhelming desire to cuddle them, despite knowing that they can pack a hefty wallop if they feel like playing shove.
There were several hilarious moments when one would land a timely clout on my head or push me into the camera. Gary's shaved head was also a huge attraction.
The next few days were very special: chatting to the keepers in a mixture of pidgin English and Swahili; long discussions with Daphne about her work in many areas of conservation; interviews with her and Gary for the film; playtime with the resident warthog family; filming the various routines associated with elephant maintenance, such as milk-mixing, mud-bathing, feeding, playing and tucking them in for the night.
Soon it was time to move on to Tsavo, still reeling from the sickening slaughter of one of its elephant families.
It was sad to leave the little ones. Even though the prospect of meeting 23 others much further along the road to eventually becoming wild elephants again was very exciting, it was also somewhat daunting.
The oldest of the little orphans was only one-year-old, the oldest of the Tsavo orphans was eight - with tusks.
But Daphne assured us that we would still be able to get close to them. Five bumpy hours in two four-wheel drives and we were there.
Voi Lodge, in the park, and our home for the remainder of the trip, was stunningly situated with a seemingly never-ending vista of wilderness stretching for miles and miles.
Basic but comfortable, all bedrooms and all vantage points have magnificent views and there is a special underground photo hide right in front of one of the waterholes, which would be extremely useful for observing wild elephants at very close range.
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| | | | Bright red earth
But the hot and humid weather brought us bad news. The seasonal rains had come early and the wild herds were scattered to the four corners of the park rather than congregating around the waterholes.
But the main point of Tsavo was, of course, the 'junior school' - and this turned out to be more exciting and wonderful than we had ever dreamed.
Tsavo is huge: 7,240 square miles of protected wilderness, and the earth is bright red. The stockades where the orphans live are at the entrance to the park and not open to the general public.
Our first meeting was at twilight and no amount of imagination could have prepared me for the sight and sound of them as they rushed forwards to drink several gallons of water followed by dust baths amid rumbling, trumpeting, pushing and jostling.
Two older, self-appointed matriarchs were about 6ft at the shoulder, with sizeable tusks.
My heart was pounding. I couldn't believe that we would be allowed to get right up close to them.
Joseph, the head keeper, was adamant that the elephants were very tolerant and patient. He was right.
His favourite, a boisterous four-year-old called Mkwejo, turned out to be a real star.
The next morning we congregated around the waterhole to sit and wait. Gary wanted shots of the little ones in motion and I was to interview him surrounded by elephants as they came out of the waterhole.
Of course, the earth being red, the water was even redder and within a short time we were surrounded by very excited, slimy and wet pachyderms, splashing and spraying us.
Time and again, a large wet trunk would sneak its way in between us and clamp itself contentedly on Gary's head.
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| | | | Foster an elephant
Elephants also emit a thrilling subsonic rumble, and if you are standing right against its trunk it feels like a giant bass speaker reverberating through your body.
That afternoon, the camera crew stayed around the hotel while Gary and I went off for a sundowner safari.
We were lucky enough to come across a pride of young lions, beautifully lit by the dying sun and stretching and posing for us magnificently, with zebra, ostrich and hartebeest as a backdrop.
We happily shot several rolls of film before retiring to the lodge.
Over the next few days we saw a lot of the orphans. For me that was the highlight of the trip.
Joseph told me how they are gradually introduced to the wild elephants until they choose to spend more and more time with them, and leave their human companions alone.
But many of the orphans make return visits to the camp, some even becoming surrogate nannies to the new additions - in turn teaching them to become wild again.
Daphne told me that, even when they have become truly wild, some elephants will bring back their babies to meet their human carers.
Daphne's work through the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is phenomenal.
And every penny that our film earns will go towards that work. After seeing the horrendous pictures of the massacre of the family of wild elephants, it is wonderful to know that her work does so much good.
The foundation has a Foster An Elephant scheme to which everyone can subscribe via the Internet.
For £35 a year you can have your own elephant. You will get monthly keeper reports and photos and be able to visit them if you get to Kenya.
But most importantly you will really make a difference. I have two and they give me unending pleasure.
The orphanage is open to the public for one hour every afternoon, but 'foster parents' are allowed to visit whenever they like.
You can get more information from http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org. Please become a foster parent. Remember, elephants never forget!
TRAVEL DETAILS:
African Pride (http://www.african-pride.co.uk/home.html tel: 01904 541000) offers holidays to Kenya.
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| | Destination Guide : Kenya |
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| | | On sensational safari |  | Why should I go on holiday to Kenya?
One word sums up the main reason to go to Kenya: safari. The wildlife in this East African country is awe-inspiring, and it also has glorious beaches and magnificent landscapes.
How much does it cost?
There are safaris for pretty much any budgets and standards vary quite widely. As a guide, a seven-night safari costs from about £1,200. A 10-night safari and coastal resort stay costs around £1,400. A return flight London-Nairobi in late May/early June starts from about the £500 mark.
When should I go?
The heat is most bearable in January-February and June-September. The rainy season hits from March-May.
What should I do when I'm there?
There would be next to no point in visiting Kenya and not going on a safari. Most safaris start and end in Nairobi or Mombasa and include up to three game drives a day. All budgets are catered for, from basic camping to luxurious lodges.
For a real high, soar away on a hot-air balloon above the Masai Mara National Game Reserve or sample the wheel thing on a bicycle safari.
Where's best to see wildlife?
The Masai Mara in western Kenya is where the vast Serengeti grasslands host the annual migration of millions of wildebeest, large prides of lions, elephants, buffaloes, zebras and hippos.
For spectacular scenery, Amboseli National Park in the south is set against the backdrop of Mt Kilimanjaro. Kakamega Forest Reserve in the west is home to several primate species. Lake Baringo in the Rift Valley hosts more than 450 kinds of birds.
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| | | Warm seas and sun |  | Seen enough wildlife?
Then head for Kenya's coastline. It's blessed with superb beaches along the Indian Ocean, from the steamy city of Mombasa to the major resort of Malindi, or the beautiful Arab-influenced island of Lamu. Beaches south of Mombasa are protected by a reef.
Where should I go hiking?
If you want to put your best foot forward don't miss the Rift Valley, where visitors can stretch their legs on a 15,000ft trek up Mt Kenya, walk through the scenic Cheragnai Hills and stroll along the shores of huge Lake Turkana in the semi-desert.
What's the capital like?
Nairobi is a lively, cosmopolitan, bustling African city - and a mugger's paradise, so beware. River Road has it all, from a crowded market to hordes of street vendors and scores of budget travellers.
For a spot of Kenyan culture, check out the National Museum, National Archives and the Snake Museum. Central Nairobi is good for restaurants and hotels.
What is the ethnicity of Kenya?
The majority of Kenya's 28m population is African, with more than 70 tribal groups - such as the renowned Masai warriors - several with their own language. There are also substantial Asian and Arab minorities.
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| | | Tastes of Kenya | | Where's good for nightlife?
You'll find a disco in every major town in Kenya - Nairobi has half a dozen, and they're usually fun and lively places. Kenyans tend to be keen on their beer, and are great party people.
Especially recommended is the Octopus Nightclub in Kisumu, on Ogada Street - especially at weekends - and the Florida 2000 on Moi Avenue in Nairobi.
What's the food like?
The nearest thing to a national dish is nyama choma - barbecued goat meat. Swahili dishes are packed with spices and coconut.
If you're feeling fruity try mango, papaya and guava. Wash it all down with a cup of chai (tea) or Tusker beer. Vegetarians will, unfortunately, be eating a lot of beans.
What should I buy?
Wood carvings (including ebony, known as makonde), paintings, gourds, sisal baskets, beaded jewellery, soapstone, fabrics and batik.
Be aware that quality varies enormously according to price - there is a lot of mass-produced dross for sale and you will have to pay more for real quality, particularly for makonde carving, jewellery and paintings.
What is there for children to do?
If the big game seems a mite intimidating for smaller travellers, there is a donkey sanctuary at Lamu, and an animal orphanage in Nairobi.
Tourist office
Kenya Tourist Board, 36 Southwark Bridge Road, London SE1 9EU. Tel. 020 7202 6373.
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| | Fact File : Kenya |
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| | | Kenya | | Did you know?
The word 'safari' means 'journey'.
Language
English and Swahili, plus many tribal languages.
Visas
All UK visitors require a visa, valid for three months.
Getting there
Scheduled airlines fly direct from the UK to the capital Nairobi. Also charter flights to Mombasa.
Flying time from London
Eight hours
Getting around
Kenya Airways operates between main cities. Popular local transport is by matatu, brightly coloured minibuses with loud stereo systems. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are the best transport in national parks.
Currency
Kenyan shilling
Costs
Bottle of beer £1, hearty meal £3-£5, roll of camera film £3-£4, four-mile taxi ride £3-£5, litre of petrol 60p. But all prices may fluctuate and expect to pay more in tourist centres.
Weather
Temperatures vary between main regions. Plateau of western Kenya (highest rainfall in April) 13C-35C (57F-95F). Central highlands and Rift Valley (perhaps Kenya's most agreeable climate is here) 10C-26C (50F-78F). Desert bushlands of eastern Kenya (little rainfall here) 20C-36C (68F-102F). Coastal belt (humid but helped by sea breezes) 21C-30C (70F-86F).
Time difference
Three hours ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 254
Voltage
240V. A universal adaptor is useful.
Opening hours
Government offices open 8/8.30am-1pm, 2pm-5pm, Monday-Friday; Banks 9am-2pm, Monday-Friday, plus 9am-11am first and last Saturday of the month. Nairobi and Mombasa both have branches of Barclays bank which open Monday-Saturday until 4.30/5pm, and the branch at Nairobi airport is open 24 hours.
Health - Before you go
Immunisations not compulsory, although yellow fever necessary for re-entry to UK. Consider tetanus, diphtheria, polio, typhoid, hepatitis A, hepatitis B (particularly for long stays and children), meningococcal meningitis, rabies and cholera. Take anti-malarial drugs and carry adequate supplies of prescribed medications. Take out adequate medical insurance.
Health - When you are there
Take care of what you eat and drink. Don't drink the local water (that includes ice). Stick to boiled milk, and peel fruit. Take precautions against sunburn, prickly heat, and heat stroke.
Warnings
Take common sense precautions. Muggings, car hi-jacks and armed attacks are not common, but do happen. There have been recent incidents of banditry at Samburu, Shaba and Masai Mara game reserves. Avoid travelling after dark. Don't carry or wear valuables in public places. Only travel with reputable tour operators.
Emergency
Police 99. British High Commission, Upper Hill Road, Nairobi. P.O. Box 30465. Tel: (00 254) (2) 714699.
Customs
Kenyans love to party and dance music rules. Modesty in dress prevails in Muslim areas.
Pets
You may only bring a pet back from Kenya if it undergoes six months in quarantine.
Tipping
5%-10% in tourist restaurants, around £1.50 per day for safari staff.
Tourist office
Kenya Tourist Board, 36 Southwark Bridge Road, London SE1 9EU. Tel. 020 7202 6373.
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| | Available rental properties in Kenya |
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| |  | | Villa Paradise View
A beautiful Villa with stunning views across a coral lagoon. Own Pool and secured access to the sea
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Villa Barizi is privately owned, it’s situated in picturesque South Coast Diani Beach area of Mombasa. It is a fully self-contained, 3 bedroom villa
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Luxurious African style villa at the shore of the Indian ocean with big garden and swimmingpool for very relaxing and enjoyable holiday
|  | | Villa Peppercon
African style villa 10 minutes walk from the Indian Ocean with big tropical garden and swimmingpool for very relaxing and enjoyable holiday
|  | | Cottage Lamu
African style villa 10 minutes walk from the Indian Ocean with big tropical garden and swimmingpool for very relaxing and enjoyable holiday
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Holiday Rentals in Kenya |
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