Travel Guides: All Countries / Africa / Mauritius
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| | | | Review by Heather Gulliver from Gloucester
The real Mauritian Culture is very fascinating and if you get too carried away presenting the tourist with a sanitised version that is unfortunate.
Swimming with the gods in delicious Mauritius
From the Mail on Sunday
At 6.30 on a late February morning the sun is already as hot as a rare warm June afternoon at Royal Ascot. I sit in a raised pavilion in the new, eccentric Oberoi hotel on the northwest corner of Mauritius, one of my five favourite islands in the world.
It is humid. In January and February most rain falls here: eight inches or more. But, as in Barbados on the other side of the world, the showers are sudden, warm and brief.
The land is verdant. Miles of sugar cane fields roll far away. It's still the main crop but now contributes less than ten per cent of the little republic's buoyant national income.
In other respects, thank God, Mauritius is nothing like Barbados. This busy, prosperous island is not dependent on charter flight tourists and none of the rich, vulgar folk who are such honking horrors on the Bajan scene.
The buildings of this new Oberoi resemble at first astonished blink a thatched African village. My windows stretch up from flowerbeds to the overhang of the brown sugar cane thatch. My window and my little private pool are surrounded, for modesty's sake, by golden ochre walls. Four frangipani trees hang over the pool supporting darting sparrows.
What remains so endearing about Mauritius (which I first discovered 20 years ago) are its rambling, flowery lanes along which in close amity you pass a Hindu temple, Christian churches from High Roman to Low Pentecostal and a Muslim mosque. Villages and shops have French names. Though English remains the official language, French and a Creole patois are still universally, melodiously spoken.
The island is no small Caribbean tourist pad but 40 miles by nearly 30 miles. The airport, now modernised, is still growing. By one gate waits a gleaming host of white-cowled nuns. The main exit, however, jostles with Muslims making their pilgrimage to Mecca. And the car park is bright with the saris of prosperous Indians.
The general manager of the Oberoi, a German, neatly generalises, praising the peaceful unity and cheerfulness of the island. He explains: 'The Indians lead in politics, the Muslims in the professions, law and accountancy and the French - they still live on their country estates where the English left them in 1810, when your country took over the island!'
These days there's a rush hour in the capital, Port Louis. It always had a faded charm and still has a splendid market. But new factories, primarily making textiles, have sprung up producing 25 per cent of the nation's wealth. Self dependence - Mauritius has been independent since 1968 and a republic since 1992 - produces a confident nation. Too often countries which depend on mass tourism (often in offensive hordes) lose pride, develop chips and become surly.
Travel guide: Mauritius
Sunglasses service and smiles
Flying non-stop to Mauritius in a BA Jumbo is not exactly a voyage into the unexpected.
True, when you arrive, gastronomic feasts by specially flown-in French chefs and a beach-side sunglasses cleaning service came as surprises.
But, overall, Mauritius is billed as a paradise in the middle of the Indian Ocean and, possibly because you've been very good in a previous life, that's what you get.
Odd to think that the dodos had it all to themselves before Portuguese sailors found it in 1507 to be followed by the Dutch, the French and the British who finished up with it.
Actually the 1.5 million inhabitants who finally finished up with it are mainly descendants of people who didn't much want to go - indentured Indian labourers shipped in to work the 19th Century sugar plantations.
And they are as delightful, helpful and charming as I had been told before I set out to check Mauritius's reputation as a beautiful place with a perfect climate, white sandy beaches, glorious coral lagoons and excellent hotels.
It's all true. I was staying at the Beau Rivage - one of six Naiade Resorts Group hotels on the islands - and I was greeted by general manager Lionel Alvarez, who told me four French chefs, none with less than a two-star Michelin rating, were being flown in to celebrate the Rivage's second birthday.
I wonder if they found it easier to talk to the Mauritians in English, which most speak, or the islanders' own sort of pidgin French creole.
The food was magnifique in any language. I'd like to go into rhapsodies about it but I'm afraid I'd only slobber into my word processor.
Suffice to say that I'll never be able to eat in a mere one-star again. Only kidding.
Travel guide: Mauritius
Where life really is a beach
Mauritius is one of those places where the rich go to remind themselves of the simple life - at luxury prices.
It is cradled in the sheltering arm of coral reefs that make the inner lagoons and beaches as tranquil and as unruffled as a botoxed brow, where you can lie on the icing sugar sands, listening to the thunder of the waves pounding the reef in the distance, and relax in a carefree universe where every whim is catered for.
This volcanic island, 960 miles east of Madagascar, is a thriving, bustling community of which well over half are Hindus. The rest of the population are Muslim, Creole or Chinese, making it a truly vibrant multicultural society with a cuisine that reflects the ethnic mix.
Most visitors merely skim the surface of the real Mauritius, as their taxi sweeps them from the airport to their luxury hotel, venturing forth only for sightseeing, or perhaps for a trip to the market in the capital, Port Louis. The island suffered only minimal damage during last month's tsunami disaster and its deluxe resorts are open for business.
The coast is ringed by superior five-star resort hotels, each a haven from everyday stresses and strains, and a self-contained microcosm of lavish living.
All mentioned here have their own gyms, hair and beauty salons, spas and a range of land and water sports on offer, free of charge.
Each hotel has its own special flavour, some more suitable for honeymooners, others for families. Some can feel a little claustrophobic while others will leave you feeling as though you've been cast away in hotel heaven, with 24-hour room service.
Honeymooners might enjoy the privacy a tad more than the couple who've been married for 20 years, and though Mauritius is custom made for those wanting to get away from it all , it is not the best place for the solitary holidaymaker.
All the conjugal canoodling of the newlywed romantics can give singletons a real pain in the neck. Take it from me. I went with my teenage daughter and gave thanks for her company every day, which, believe me, is not my default setting.
Generally, the southern part of the island is more rugged and wild. On the west coast, the hotel Paradis on the Le Morne Peninsula is a good choice for those who get stir crazy in a small space.
Teenagers, and their grateful parents, might especially benefit from their ability to wander off on their own - and the hotel is convenient for sightseeing and surfing.
The waterfall at Chamarel and the Black River Gorges National Park are nearby, as is the island's most famous beach – Flic en Flac. The hotel also has several restaurants and an 18-hole championship golf course.
Most recently opened on this part of the coast is the Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, spread over 27 acres overlooking the blue waters of Tamarin Bay at Wolmar Beach, it consists of 65 villas, each with its own private pool.
The majority of the other hotels are clustered along the east coast. Here the twin resorts of Le Tousserok and Saint Geran offer two quite different atmospheres.
Travel guide: Mauritius
Mr Mahogany goes to Mauritius
When The Mail on Sunday asked me to write a travel article I thought, blimey, Dickie, this is too good to be true.
Dave Dickinson, the duke, getting sent on holiday and topping up the tan at the same time -absolutely marvellous.
I had just finished making 140 Bargain Hunts back-to-back and was after total relaxation plus pampering. And the world was my oyster.
The only question: Which bit of it? Some years ago, working on the Holiday Show for the BBC, I visited lots of exciting destinations, but one place stuck in my mind - Mauritius, the fabulous sub-tropical island, the jewel of the Indian Ocean.
Although I was there only a short time, I was very impressed by the sandy beaches, the wonderful sunsets, the warm, friendly people and I thought: 'One day I'll come back here and bring Her Indoors, the duchess.'
I decided to compare two very different hotels on this magical island: where would I want to lay out my towel?
We left London on the 8pm Air Mauritius flight. After dinner and champagne in Club Class we got our heads down and slept soundly in the deep leather seats.
If you can push the boat out for Club Class on long-haul flights, believe me, it can make all the difference. You arrive refreshed, not so shattered that you need a day off from your expensive holiday to recover.
Mauritius is four hours ahead, so we arrived at 1pm, got rushed through baggage and customs and were met by a smiling driver of a Mercedes - preferable to the fashion among some hotels for four-wheel-drive utility vehicles.
Our first hotel, the Oberoi, is just 50 minutes from the airport on the west coast, a short distance from the capital, Saint Louis.
As we arrived and saw the thatched roofs amid 20 acres of tropical gardens along a fabulous beach, I thought: 'Yes! This is going to be a cracker, a real bobby-dazzler.'
As we drew up, boys came running from everywhere to collect our luggage. We were ushered to one of the open-air thatched reception huts and offered cold exotic fruit drinks and cold towels to soothe our brows.
The hotel's motto is: 'This is where heaven meets earth' and, as we relaxed in a cooling breeze within sight of the sea, it seemed to be living up to it.
Travel guide: Mauritius
Beautiful beaches
We visited Mauritius in June 2005 and stayed at the Silver Beach Hotel on the east coast on an all-inclusive basis.
It was a small, mid-range hotel set on a pretty beach. It's probably due for some upgrading soon but it was clean and excellent value for money. The food was fine and the service was very good.
It was extremely windy here which I gather is a seasonal norm in this particular spot.
Mauritius has beautiful beaches and lovely people, like the Caribbean 20 ago but with better service.
Travel guide: Mauritius
Pearl in the Indian Ocean
From the Daily Mail
Until recently, I'd had very little experience of tropical islands and was inclined to dislike them. I believed there were only three facts that every intelligent person knew by heart. Tropical islands were a) boring, b) uncomfortable and c) extremely bad for the bowels.
I forgot to add that it nearly always rains. They claim in the holiday brochures that October to March is nice and dry and the rest of the year constitutes the rainy season.
They lie. All of the year seems to constitute the rainy season. Why else do all those colonials in Somerset Maugham stories carry whopping great umbrellas?
But, as is the prerogative of my sex, I changed my mind when I experienced Mauritius. For one thing, it only rained once, which in my opinion makes the place unique among its peers.
For another, Mauritius isn't even the tiddliest bit boring - not the weeniest bit. It has a real history. This is, among other things, the home of the poor old Dodo, which apparently flourished until the Europeans came knocking about the Indian Ocean in the 16th Century.
The Dutch sailors fancied it for dinner, so when the French took over in 1715 there were none left and they had to make do with the indigenous seafood, tea and a great deal of sugar. A century later it was all change again. In 1810 the island became British and stayed that way until its independence in 1968.
As melting pots go you couldn't ask for a more fortuitous fusion of races and cultures. Huguenots, British, Chinese and Indians have produced a native population which is the best looking in the Indian Ocean.
Most locals speak Creole, a linguistic legacy that conjures up pictures of the young, languorous Josephine Bonaparte and snowy white plantation houses.
Much of the architecture is colonial. Mauritius has plantation houses whose columns reach up towards the azure sky below which rests the picturesque 'mountain of the three mammaries'. The numerous hills, with their tea and eucalyptus plants, resemble bountiful arboretums. And there are the beaches . . .
As Raymond Chandler's Philip Marlowe used to say of blondes, there are beaches and there are beaches. These are the turquoise waters, deserted sands and rosy coral kind.
At any moment you expect Bing Crosby to appear and warble, Moonlight Becomes You.
Travel guide: Mauritius
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| | | | Retreat amongst the foliage
The rough-hewn exterior of the Oberoi buildings embrace modern marbled delights plus air conditioning, TV, the lot. But I can't see why the Thai architect so concentrated on the African influence. Mauritius lies 550 miles off the African coast and 1,200 miles from dire Mombassa.
The island has been far more influenced by the Dutch, French and British occupations. Mass Indian immigration (as indentured labourers when slavery ended) and the subsequent arrivals of Chinese and Malays made the island the lively, friendly melting pot it is.
Around the Oberoi there were certainly many Indian and Balinese artefacts: my garden is guarded by grey stone beasts, a tiger's head watches over my private pool and a strange, horn-topped god stares into the marble bath.
The gardens are improving by leaps and borders. They and the sapphire-blue pool are enlivened by bizarre statues, figures often in grey volcanic stone, some reclining, some as if fallen. It feels like swimming in the ruins of a Balinese temple.
Dark pitchers deliver water into pools. Cascades fall from tall, engraved columns. Swimming among them is delicious and, at the moment, far easier than the ocean. Strong seas in January swept much sand off the gently sloping stones. The sea inside the close reef is very shallow and the stones are hard on the feet.
I write in a high, thatched platform in my garden, like an Indian maharajah's throne. From it, I can see the white beach parasols and the blue-green banded sea. To the south east are Mauritius's fantastical purple mountains, some topping 2,000 ft, spiky and often cloud-capped like fairy fortresses.
Awesome rock formations
The service was as good as the food. With 500 staff to look after, at most, 450 clients it was the best I've ever encountered in all my years of travel.
Lying on the beach, I was approached by a young hotel employee who demanded my sunglasses.
I handed them over with apprehension and he squirted them with an aromatic mixture of patchouli and vanilla (a renowned local product) then wiped them with a chamois leather.
This happened at intervals throughout the day, often interrupted by another staff member bearing freebie hors d'oeuvres to reclining guests.
It was a pleasant 86 degrees, the crystal clear water was 80 degrees...
It was so tempting not to move but there were places to go, people to see.
Mauritours, a leading ground-handler, provided a car and a charming guide for a day's exploration.
There is no space here to list all the great sights - awesome rock formations, waterfalls, mountains sweeping down to the sea - but pride of place must go to the riot of colour provided throughout the island by the mauve jacaranda, frangipani, lilies, purple bougainvillea, orchids, anthuriums and the bright red flame trees.
No excursion should fail to include the astonishing Botanical Gardens of Pamplemousses originally planted to provide citrus fruits as an anti-scurvy medicine for the incoming sailors.
Port Louis, the capital, is also a must, if only for the huge selection of really worthwhile goods on offer, especially fine cloths - a speciality of the island.
You'll have your own butler
Le Tousserok is hot, hot, hot in every way (especially the dining room in the warm humid, evenings when we sweated it out in a decidedly unchic canteen-like free for all).
This is the achingly hip place to see the beautiful people ignoring popular advice about the ageing properties of sun and best for couples.
The hotel is dotted on a series of small islands linked together by high bridges and walkways - for that authentic Ewok experience.
There are many individual coves and beaches - but the hotel does have a high-density feel and if you truly want to escape people you need to head off to the resort's exclusive, completely private, island. Take a pre-prepared picnic or eat at one of the island restaurants.
Bedrooms can be comparatively small in the way that, say, Vanessa Feltz looks skinny next to Pavarotti, but all have a range of glitzy extras, not least of which is the Philip Starck egg bath that dominates the bathroom.
Get in and you might never get out again, not only because you keep slipping down the sides but because it's like floating in a bubble-filled womb.
Each room has a plasma screen television and tea and espresso facilities though beware the fistful of dollars they charge you for the pleasure of making your own coffee or dunking a tea bag.
Each guest has a butler who will do anything for you short of fathering your children and on the beach they really do offer to polish your sunglasses.
However, if you have a sandwich brought to you on the beach or in the room beware the tray charge per person (around a whacking $8 while I was there) that can take the edge off your appetite.
The pop stars and gliterati who stay here probably don't worry about little cash-flow problems like this, but ordinary mortals might want to do their sums.
The resort has a Givenchy spa, a high-end Indian restaurant - Safran - and at night they turn down the lights and sprinkle flower petals on your bed. So romantic you want to cry though you'll be picking them out of your hair for days afterwards.
The Saint Geran, but a short flip-flop away, is plush, posh and pricey. It has miles of private beaches and a beautiful tropical garden complete with flamingos and swans.
However, the run-of-the-mill layout of the hotel fronts the beach and, despite being recently revamped, doesn't offer the same aesthetic beauty as many of the other resorts.
A better choice for families, rooms again are on the Vanessa Feltz post-diet size and are decorated in warm apricot tones, with balconies or terraces and, rattan loungers.
Staff, as everywhere on Mauritius, are overwhelmingly friendly, charming and highly efficient. The butler allocated to you on your arrival will offer to do a free pressing for you, but sadly it's only your clothes he's talking about.
Like Le Tousserok, Saint Geran has a Givenchy spa with a sauna and swimming pool, free water sports including snorkelling and a glass bottom boat and both French film star and rocker Johnny Halliday and singer Chris de Burgh have stayed there, which, depending on your musical tastes, may be a good reason for you not to.
Fragrance of frangipani
Check-in was fast and smooth. Then, to the sound of birdsong and the sea, a little buggy took us beneath regal palms, past the heady fragrance of frangipani and scarlet flame trees to our villa. Like the others it was private and surrounded by its own gardens.
Inside, the main impression was of spacious, air-conditioned luxury. Some villas had private swimming pools, others no pools but more extensive walled gardens.
Since there was the sea - safe from sharks thanks to the world's largest unbroken coral reef surrounding the island - and also a very romantic and natural pool right on the beach, a private pool wasn't a necessity.
Inside the ochre-walled villa, the main lounge-cum-bedroom had cool marble floors and pastel painted walls, a king-sized fourposter bed and comfortable rattan furniture with pastel chintzes.
My wife Lorne, now very much Her Indoors, spotted the massive walk-in wardrobe. The duchess does like to bring along about 26 dresses to wear during six days.
The marble-lined bathroom, with its motif of mother-of-pearl and black shell, was stunning. There was a sunken bath big enough to throw a decadent party.
The glass-lined shower opened to a small, walled garden so private you could shower and have the doors open to rustling foliage and birdsong.
Not long after 2pm we had unpacked and were out on the 600 yards of private beach, soaking up those rays. The transformation was so fast it seemed unreal to be strolling along golden sand and gazing at the intense turquoise sea.
The hotel's gardens, with the most wonderful flowers and foliage and a backdrop of dark, mysterious volcanic mountains, added to the feeling of a fusion of the East with Africa.
Everywhere, figures carved in volcanic stone with Buddha-like faces gave the feel of Bali. Small winding paths - lit at night with fairy-tale lanterns - lured you to explore, to breathe in deeply the musky scent of the tropics.
I wasn't looking for an activity holiday, although Mauritius can accommodate anyone wanting one. Neither was I looking to pound a treadmill, the baffling activity of many guests in the well-appointed gym.
A personal butler
It is not surprising then that in the last few years the island has become an increasingly favoured tourist destination for the international chic, making significant erosions into the traditional Caribbean market.
Nicky Haslam and Lee Radziwill, Jackie Kennedy's sister, spent New Year there. The South African Sol Kerzner has been a shrewd investor; Sun International owns Le Tousserok hotel and the newly revamped and glitzy Saint Geran where Camilla Parker Bowles stayed recently, which has a casino and a lot of people from Hello! magazine.
Both these hotels offer excellent examples of Mauritian cuisine, which, unlike most tropical-island fare (burnt bits of fish and unchewable meat from God-knows what mammal), is a savoury mixture of Chinese, French and Indonesian.
If you stay at the Saint Geran, your whims are attended to by a personal butler. Many of the suites open out on to the sea, giving the impression of being on a gigantic yacht - the sort that only Onassis could dream of.
Once on the beach, sunbathing is enlivened by colourfully garbed men offering to sell one pearls.
The way to tell whether pearls are real or not is either to bite them, to see if they are painted - place them in a flame - if they burn they are plastic.
Most of these salesmen peddle the genuine stuff, at a very reasonable price. The hotels pretend to disapprove of their trade, principally because their glossy boutiques sell pearl necklaces for triple the price.
Mauritius is hardly Nice or Cannes when it comes to shopping. Port Louis, the capital, has a profusion of shops selling shells, miniature wooden boats and straw hats.
The food market is compelling but not for the fastidious. One of its common sights is the live, as it were, slaughter of goats and other animals.
For the benefit of the traveller used to the salubriousness of the first world resorts, it bears no resemblance to the charming little place in Portofino where you picked up that delightful blue and white china breakfast set.
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| | | | A very modern Mauritius
The 18th century botanical gardens at Pamplemousses (yes, grapefruits do grow there) are beautiful, serene and free. On an earlier visit we came upon the Hindu prime minister's funeral pyre. Next time his memorial was finished. Around and about stand young trees given by presidents and royalty from the world over.
There are wonderful old trees, water gardens of immense lily leaves, some from India, some from the Amazon, and in the centre is a beautiful but empty French-built Governor's house. There are 80 different palm trees among 600 different trees altogether. One, the talipot, blooms only once in 60 years, then dies.
Down in the south west I've been deep-sea fishing and, close by, explored the Black River Gorges National Park and seen the once almost extinct Mauritius kestrel and pink pigeon. I've been up to the green extinct volcano, the Trou aux Cerfs, and swum off the eastern shore from the Ile aux Cerfs. There were plenty of these cerfs around because the Dutch imported them. Sadly, these deer also routed out the ebony trees and finally killed off the dodo.
The greatest improvement for tourism on the island is the development of the magnificent waterfronts at Port Louis. Where tatty old wharfs once stood there is now a magnificent array of chic shops, busy pubs, arts 'n' crafts, and good restaurants. Here sleek businessmen in silk shirts and ties and dark suits, prattling French, lunch well, while at the next table jolly, fat Essex girls and lusty lads gorge and giggle.
Dinners at the Oberoi are in a tall, open-sided hall, wonderfully lit - the designer works in theatres - and offer the essence of Creole cooking with whiffs of Indian, based on excellent French. I stroll back to my little cottage past a rushing artificial waterfall and a new lake honking with a deep orchestra of frogs. Suitably, they sound fat and happy.
Getting there: Abercrombie & Kent (0845 070 0611) organises packages from London to the Oberoi, including return flights with Air Mauritius and private transfers. For Air Mauritius call 020 7434 4375. For information on Oberoi Hotels call 0207 222 0606.
Glorious carefree holiday
I also wanted to take a quick look at the other hotels of the Naiade Group, ranging from five to three-star establishments.
All seemed quite delightful and I was especially impressed by the four-star Les Pavillons.
In my line, it pays to know other travellers' opinions. It's a hard habit to break and I got chatting to other guests at the Beau Rivage.
During one of those fantastic dinners I shared a table with Janet Reger - queen of lingerie - who now divides her time between Mauritius, where she has her workshops, and London and her boutique in Beauchamp Place.
We began chatting to the couple at the next table, John and Susan Bawler from Ashurstwood in West Sussex who were on their honeymoon.
I asked John about his impressions - he gave me a written travel report from which I quote: 'Far beyond our dream... superb food, warm people... everything beautifully presented.'
Chris and Michelle were honeymooning on the island where they became engaged 'A super place,' said Michelle. 'I couldn't imagine a greater place for a honeymoon,' said Chris.
Or for families either, it seemed. Kevin and Tania Andrews of Wokingham appreciated the hotel's Kiddies Club and babysitting service for their three children aged 10 months to 10 years. 'Kevin and I are having a really glorious carefree holiday,' Tania said.
So what can I say in conclusion to my brief adventure? I know, and I shall say it in Creole.
Mo content toi, Morice. I love you, Mauritius.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Sunset Faraway Holidays (http://www.sunsetfaraway.com 020 7498 9922) offers flights and airport transfers plus seven nights half-board at the Beau Rivage; at Les and at Merville Beach. British Airways (http://www.ba.com tel: 0845 7733377)
Endlessly hospitable island
There are two restaurants - the fish and Creole eatery - named Paul And Virginie after the tedious and slight romantic novel that seems to be Mauritius's one claim to literary fame
And there's Alaine Ducasse's Spoon des Iles which offers his signature tiny titbits for tired palates in a padded white-leather interior that makes you feel as though you are sitting in a very large Cadillac. Ah - where's Elvis when you need him?
Nearby, The Residence is a vast, white, 1920s, Great Gatsby-meets-Indian colonial style hotel filled with sepia photographs, and beautiful Indian and Balinese antiques.
Staff here glide around in white like obliging ghosts. Friendly, eager to help and endlessly hospitable - given its size, the hotel is overall, one of the most efficient and welcoming.
Again, a butler is allocated on arrival who will unpack for you, so make sure your suitcase is up to inspection. We declined. That stuff your mother tells you about your underwear in the event of an accident applies equally to the scrutiny of luggage.
Le Prince Maurice, also on the east coast is quite simply bliss on the beach - with endless acres of private sands, gardens and walkways to explore and barely a soul to bother you. Set on a beautiful lagoon, completely free of beach traders, this is one of the most exclusive and relaxing resorts on the island.
You shed stress like a loose sarong when you walk into the cool, vanilla-scented interior of the Prince Maurice. Fountains and swimming pools fill the air with the gentle sound of trickling water, and huge squashy sofas in the bar encourage easy flopping.
Staff are always discretely available a mere whim away from fulfilling your every desire. This is a place where everybody knows your name. Walking through reception is like being a celebrity without the flashbulbs.
Extra touches flock around the resort like groupies round a pop star – the Guerlaine spa; the floating restaurant hidden on a volcanic island; the rooms on stilts on the water of the inner lagoon which are so popular they can book up years in advance; and the private swimming pools in the ocean villas which, by themselves, are large enough for a sulking family.
Another destination with a difference is the Oberoi Hotel on the north-west tip of the island. Think the Flintstones-meets-full on luxury. It's yabba yabba yes with thatched roof cottages tucked away amid lush gardens full of colourful birds and butterflies and impressive carved animal sculptures looming out of the shrubbery.
There's an extraordinary indigo-coloured swimming pool with dramatic statues making you feel like you're swimming in a Mayan temple and at night, when braziers light up in the grounds for a dramatic ambience, romantics can eat dinner at the end of the pier or even on the beach, away from the madding crowd.
Paradise Cove is on the northernmost tip of the island. As the name suggests, this hotel is set round a small private cove surrounded by colonnades that are ideal for sunbathing, and faces out to twin islands that lie offshore like basking whales.
This is a less elaborate resort - the only four-star hotel of those I've mentioned here - with a traditional, laid-back feel. It's also the only locally owned hotel and marketed heavily as a honeymoon heaven for the smooching brigade.
Unfortunately, we spent the night hiding from a little lizard that seemed to think we were up for a threesome. Needless to say he spent the night in an upturned water glass until a member of staff returned him to the wild.
Finally, The Royal Palm on the Grand Baie in the north of the island is the grande dowager of the hotels, with a real sense of old-fashioned glamour and refinement.
There's an outstanding Moroccan hammam with a series of private rooms where you can either steam, sauna and massage, or simply relax - each in its own private garden.
We were there during a tropical storm - cyclone watching in the rainy season is something of an extreme sport for the unwary – and when it rains, it rains.
With no sun to bathe in we steamed, instead, in the marble hammam, then showered in the warm rain. It was an experience in itself. They really should put it in the brochure.
Lulling sound of the sea
This mini-palace is definitely for royalty - Prince William stayed there two years ago - and movie stars. Last year it provided a hidey-hole for Michael Barrymore when he was having a bit of bother with the Press.
The villa is in its own grounds, with a private pristine beach, its own pool, staff and chef. In fact, its own everything. It also has the biggest double bed I have ever seen. Beckham could practise free kicks from one corner of it to the other.
The Oberoi has romance and panache, the St Geran has style, elegance and remarkably well trained staff. Within hours, they knew the name of every guest as if it had been tattooed on your forehead while you'd been sleeping.
And they are experienced with children, who are welcome.
Again, I had to do something for the first time -a facial in the Givenchy spa. Having a wet clay mask applied to my face was an intriguing experience. When I walked out, looking 10 years younger, Lorne was looking around as if trying to find me.
I said, 'It's me!' Her mouth dropped open. But was that a twinkle in her eye?
There is a Michelin star gourmet restaurant, The Spoons, inspired by Alain Ducasse, but sadly my brief didn't run to that kind of expense.
Instead, the first night we ate in the Paul et Virginie restaurant - named after two runaway lovers who, according to legend, drowned in a shipwreck off the coast.
It is set on an open deck overlooking a lagoon, a magical place when the moon and stars are out.
Our giant prawns were excellent - grilled and garnished with a vanilla bean sauce and accompanied by a chilled bottle of Chablis.
Afterwards, we had caffe latte with petits fours; in this case, a serving so generous it seemed like another course.
We also dined in the Terrace restaurant which is amusingly laid out on large concrete lily pads in and around the swimming pool. It is beautiful, with candlelight reflected in the water. However, the food, while good, is not spectacular.
If there was a drawback with our room it was that we could hear the band all night. The next day, we moved rooms, then it was back to sleeping to the lulling sound of the sea.
Over the years Lorne and I have travelled throughout the world and stayed in some of the best five-star hotels available. The Oberoi and the Saint Geran both compared well with the best.
For me, it was the perfect holiday: I did absolutely nothing and had the time of my life. But in which of the two would I choose to leave my towel?
The Oberoi edged it on value for money; while the Saint Geran's staff are its polished diamonds. So I'm going to leave half a towel at the Oberoi and half a towel at the Saint Geran - and leave you to decide where you would choose to go.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Elegant Resorts features holidays to Mauritius. Call 01244 897888 or visit http://www.elegantresorts.co.uk
Adorned with rose petals
Down from the market is what is left of colonial Port Louis. There is a splendid government building held up by snowy columns. In the foreground a large statue of Queen Victoria gazes out benevolently over the bay.
Marking the demise of another species, a bronze carving of a Dodo looks mournfully in the other direction. In the museum is a stuffed example of the real thing. What puzzled me is how the sailors could have made a meal of it. The bird is all bill and no body.
Nearby are the island's botanical gardens. Visiting them is an Alice in Wonderland experience.
All the plants seem inordinately large compared to the people walking beside them. In the centre of the gardens is a lake containing giant water lilies. When at their full size they can seat five people. It is alleged that Queen Victoria gave them to the people of Mauritius after they failed to prosper in Great Britain.
South east from the lilies lies the prettiest stretch of coast. The French hotelier, Philippe Requin, of the Naiade hotel group, is busy recreating, down to a silver teaspoon, the far off, resplendent days of colonial hedonism. The Naiade group operates a charming hotel called Beau Rivage.
It consists of groups of small houses made to look like an estate with thatched roofs. In the centre is the Maharajah suite, which probably amounts to a fevered exposition of what an Indian nabob might have imagined.
It is a pleasure dome with rainbow colour schemes and shimmering, shiny mosaics. The bathroom has a distinctly Moorish air, meanwhile. No bath goes unadorned with rose petals while jasmine scent wafts from jardinieres.
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| | | | For the weedily romantic
About a 20-minute boat trip from the hotel is a demi-paradise set in the emerald sea, which for centuries had been known by locals as Ile Des Deux Cocos.
The first British Governor, Sir Hesketh Bell, built his summer residence here. Its central facade remains, an arabesque folly from which the governor and his guests, drinks in hand, surveyed the mainland.
In the past, the island has been declared a nature reserve and, visiting its opalescent shores, it is easy to see why.
Ulysses and his exhausted sailors could not have found refuge in a more verdant spot, where a gentle breeze blows in from the ocean without cessation.
After the return journey, guilty holidaymakers might think it a good idea to work off some of their picnic with a ride on the beach. Recently, one of the young locals started a stable for rescued racehorses and other thoroughbreds.
My first sight of him was at 7am on the morning when I was swimming, virtually alone in the sea. He rode up on a great black horse, like something out of the books my grandmother used to read.
He turned out to own a sugar plantation too. We inspected it one day while clouds hung over the hills like an aureole and monkeys chattered in the trees. There were no mosquitoes or insects in hearing distance.
Mauritius is definitely a tropical island for the weedily romantic.
TRAVEL FACTS:
Air Mauritius (020 7434 4375) operates from London Heathrow and Manchester. Magical Mauritius (01488 668821) offers tailor-made holidays to Mauritius and features the Saint Geran, the Tousserok and the Beau Rivage.
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| | Destination Guide : Mauritius |
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| | | Island wonders |  | Why go on holiday to Mauritius?
The island is justly famous for its coral reefs and white beaches. But that's not all there is to this destination, with a population made up of the descendants of Indian indentured workers, African slaves, British colonists and French traders.
And the island's architecture, history, culture and cuisine are as interesting and diverse as its population.
Add to the mix nature reserves with wildlife galore and you have a varied holiday destination that combines beach, culture and nature into a heady and fulfilling experience.
How much does it cost?
There are some lower priced resorts but don't expect anything especially cheap. A return flight will set you back from around £600 and a seven-day package including flights from about £900. Mid-range hotel accommodation in a double room costs from £20-£40. Shop around as costs will vary.
When should I go?
The east coast is drier during January and February, when winds dump rain on central and western Mauritius. Hottest months are January-April (25-35C/78-95F) with high humidity and cyclones.
July to September is the Mauritian "winter" with average temperatures of 24C/78F during the day and 16C/62F at night; it is also less humid and drier.
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| | | A colourful country |  | What should I do when I'm there?
Watersports including kayaking, sailboarding, surfing and snorkelling, as well as deep-sea fishing, yachting, cycling and horseriding are all on offer on the island.
The north-west coast is where you'll find most resorts, Grande Baie and the smaller, quieter, cheaper Pereybere. The secluded Baie de L'Arsenal is next to the wonderful but rapidly developing Balaclava. Troux aux Biches is the chic "sunset strip".
On the east coast, the village of Poudre d'Or not only has the golden powder beaches of its name, but is also rich in history and character.
To the west, laid-back Tamarin is the surfers' hang-out, whilst the Grande Riviere Noire is the centre for deep-sea fishing. Flic en Flac and Belle Mare have the best swimming on the island.
And when I'm bored with the beach?
The capital, Port Louis, has great views from Fort Adelaide; you can also see the last dodo - stuffed, sadly - in the Natural History Museum. The town of Goodlands is worth visiting to see the Historic Marine boatbuilding factory.
In the centre of the island visit Moka town and its environs; waterfalls and tropical mountains galore, the lovely Tamarind falls, and the Troux aux Cerfs crater with its incredible views over the whole island.
Troux d'Eau Douce is a village that has lots of character and charm, with steps leading down to the sea and the spring-fed sea pool that gives the town its name. The southern town of Mahebourg has a fascinating Naval Museum.
Where can I see wildlife?
The Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolan Botanical Gardens in Pamplemousses is a wonderful place to see exotic flora.
Mongooses and Java deer can be glimpsed by the roadside, but you'll need to go into the huge Riviere Noire Gorge national park to catch sight of wild pigs and macaque monkeys.
Head west to see the feathery and furry creatures at Casela Bird Park, where one of the tortoises is rumoured to be 150 years old. In the south the Domaine du Chasseur gives you a taste of tropical forest, as does the nearby La Vanille Crocodile Park.
What about local festivals?
The colourful, sometimes alarming, festivals are well worth seeking out. For the Cavadee festivals (Hindu), men put skewers through their cheeks before the procession of a flower-decorated wooden arch (cavadee).
Devotees at the Teemeedee festival walk over red-hot embers. For three days in February/March, Maha Shivarati takes place, the biggest and best Hindu festival outside India.
Holi, held every February/March, involves lots of coloured powder and liquid being thrown - you have been warned!
For Muslims, Id-el-Fitr is a big celebration at the end of Ramadan; the Pere Laval Feast Day in September is a big Christian festival; and the Chinese community celebrates Chinese Spring Festival or New Year.
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| | | Cuisine of many cultures | | Where's good for nightlife?
In Port Louis, head for the swish Le Caudan Waterfront development, with a casino as well as bars and restaurants.
In Grande Baie and elsewhere, go for a sega (local style of dance rather like shuffling salsa) disco, either in a hotel or in town. Check Cote Nord for listings for all the main north-west resort towns.
You'll find live music and entertainment at most of the big hotels, including the local rhythmic music that accompanies sega dance, which blends many musical influences over African beats.
What's the food like?
Mauritian food is a mixed bag - the influence of several cultures combined. Creole fare is a kind of spiced-up French cuisine, often featuring seafood or meat in spicy tomato sauce.
Chinese restaurants are the most common, serving a mixture of Chinese and Indian/creole foods. Street food, such as samosas, curried rolls and rotis, is often good; just make sure it's boiling hot to avoid tummy trouble.
Green Island, Powers No1 and Anytime are popular brands of rum. South African wine is the best bet here; Phoenix pilsner is the locally brewed beer. Yoghurt drinks are popular and refreshing - try a lassi or an alouda.
What should I buy?
The main market in the narrow alleys of Port Louis gives a real taste of local life. Colourful spices, clothes, medicinal herbs and handicrafts are all on offer - just watch out for pickpockets.
Model ship-making is big business in Mauritius - you'll find intricate miniatures of The Bounty and other famous sailing vessels; the best place to buy is Voiliers de L'Ocean in Curepipe, or the Historic Marine factory in Goodlands.
The Handloom House in Port Louis has a good range of Indian garments and fabrics; for designer goods from factory outlets, try the Phoenix Factory Shop near the brewery in Phoenix town. Buy made-to-measure shoes in Curepipe shopping arcade.
What is there for children to do?
Kids love the beaches, the ancient tortoise in the nature reserve, and the model boat factories. They may also enjoy the Mauritius Postal Museum in Port Louis. In Tamarin head for the Shellorama Museum - a huge and colourful collection of shells.
Tourist office
Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority, 32 Elveston Place, London SW7 5NW. Tel. 020 7584 3666.
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| | Fact File : Mauritius |
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| | | Mauritius | | Did you know?
Once a year the entire coral reef reproduces in the same night, releasing millions of tiny eggs that float to the surface of the water, changing colour dramatically as they go.
Language
English and French are the official languages; Creole/patois is spoken widely; Bhojpuri, Urdu, Gujarati and Chinese dialects are also represented.
Visas
None required but you need a valid passport and an outward ticket to be allowed in to the country. You may be asked where you are going to stay and even to show that you have sufficient finances for your trip, if you are not part of a package tour/holiday.
Getting there
Direct flights from the UK to Mauritius from London.
Flying time from London
Twelve hours
Getting around
Daily flights to Rodrigues Island. Buses are good but slow. Car hire is reasonably priced but the main roads can be very busy and a bit dangerous, so be careful. Taxis are cheap but only if you negotiate a price before undertaking your journey. Cycling is a great way to go around the coast as there are few hills, but beware potholes and drivers. There are daily ferries to the nearby Ile aux Cerfs and many small pirogues for hire to cross small rivers and lagoons - as with taxis, agree a price before starting the journey.
Currency
Rupee. Major credit cards widely accepted; cash advances on credit cards available from most major banks.
Costs
As a guide: Litre of petrol 40p; moderate restaurant meal £15; beer £1.50-£2; camera film £2; short taxi ride £3.50.
Weather
On the plateau around Curepipe temperatures are usually 5C lower than on the coast. It can be rainy up on the plateau and clear on the coast, and vice-versa. The east coast is drier during January and February when winds dump rain on central and western Mauritius. Hottest months are Jan-April (25-35C/78-95F) with high humidity and cyclones. July to September is the Mauritian winter, with average temperatures 24C/78F in the daytime and 16C/62F at night; it is also less humid and has less rainfall.
Time difference
Four hours ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 230
Voltage
220V or 125V, 50 Hz.
Opening hours
Office hours are 9am-4pm Mon-Fri and, for private businesses, 8.30am-noon on Saturday. Shops and cafes are usually open at 9am, close between 3-6pm and then open again. Check restaurant times before arranging evening meals, as some are open only for lunch.
Health - Before you go
Vaccinations are recommended for hepatitis A, polio and typhoid. Anti-malarial tablets are needed in some areas - check with your GP, or the Foreign Office on 020 7238 4503/3, as it depends on which region you are visiting.
Health - When you are there
The main public health service is free to residents and visitors but there'll be a long wait - you may prefer to get insurance and go private. The public hospitals are The Jeetoo in Port Louis, the Princess Margaret in Candos, the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam at Pamplemousses and the Jawaharlal Nehru at Rose Bell.
Warnings
When diving, be careful of the coral, shells and fish - some just sting but others are deadly. Make sure you know which are which, and what to do and where to go for help. Drugs are illegal and there are stiff penalties for possession, use, buying or selling. Showers in some cheaper rooms are electrically heated in the shower head itself with predictably dangerous results. Beware, and ask how to use this kind of shower or you may get a shock.
Emergency
Police - dial 999. British Embassy, Les Cascades Building, Edith Cavell Street, Port Louis. Tel: 211 1361.
Customs
Ask before taking photographs of people; many women find it offensive, as you probably would if someone started snapping away at you. Dress codes are conservative away from beach resort areas. Bargaining is part of life on Mauritius; even daily accommodation rates should drop by around 20-30% after a week's stay.
Pets
Mauritius is in the PETS travel scheme under long-haul regulations. However, this is a long and complicated procedure requiring vaccinations, medical check-ups and route planning; it is not as simple as walking on and off a plane with your pet. Therefore the scheme is more suited to those returning from a long stay abroad, rather than the two-week holidaymaker. It takes several months to set up the relevant documentation; see your vet for further details.
Tipping
It's not necessary to tip. Most restaurants add a government tax to the bill.
Tourist office
Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority, 32 Elveston Place, London SW7 5NW. Tel: 020 7584 3666.
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| | Available rental properties in Mauritius |
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| |  | | Aqua Sur Mer Studio Apartments No. Three Of Five
Beautiful Paradise Beach Front holiday studio Trou-Aux- Biches . Beach front Ocean, ( under a minute to beach ), modern new self catering studio apartment , includes maid service , a/c,Wifi,etc.
|  | | Aqua Sur Mer Studio Apartments No. Two Of Five
Beautiful Paradise Beach Front holiday studio Trou-Aux- Biches . Beach front Ocean, ( under a minute to beach ), modern new self catering studio apartment , includes maid service , a/c,Wifi,etc.
|  | | Aqua Sur Mer Studio Apartments No. One Of Five
Beautiful Paradise Beach Front holiday studio Trou-Aux- Biches . Beach front Ocean, ( under a minute to beach ), modern new self catering studio apartment , includes maid service , a/c, wifi,etc.
|  | | Aqua Sur Mer Studio Apartments
Beautiful Paradise Beach Front holiday studio Trou-Aux- Biches . Beach front Ocean, ( under a minute to beach ), modern new self catering studio apartment , includes maid service , a/c,Wifi,etc.
|  | | Aqua Sur Mer Studio Apartments
Beautiful Paradise Beach Front holiday studio Trou-Aux- Biches . Beach front Ocean, ( under a minute to beach ), modern new self catering studio apartment .Now with Free wifi connection.
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Holiday Rentals in Mauritius |
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