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 |  | Travel Reviews : Melbourne |
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| | | | Melbourne: The food capital of Australia
I visited Melbourne in April after two previous attempts to see the city fell through due to ill health.
The flight from Heathrow took 13 hours to Singapore, then we had a one hour 45 minute re-fuel stop (during which we all disembarked and had a stroll in fabulous Changi Airport) and then it was another seven hours to Melbourne's Tullamarine Airport.
On arrival I got the Skybus to Spencer Street Station in the city centre — great value at $13 one way. It was then just a short taxi drive (or a 15 minute walk) to my hotel on Little Collins Street, right in the heart of the city.
Victoria Hotel is the largest 3.5 star hotel in Melbourne and, although it's a bit shabby in parts it's excellently located and was very clean. It's a great choice if, like me, you're on a tight budget but don't want to rough it too much at a backpacker hotel. I paid £32/night for a single en-suite. If money had been no object then I'd definitely have plummed for the fabulous looking Park Hyatt!
Less than five minutes walk from the hotel was the Town Hall, which was hosting an international Comedy Festival, and Federation Square where there's a huge tourist information centre.
I booked myself trips along the Ocean Road, to the old gold-mining town of Ballarat, and a very fun 'tongue in cheek' trip to Ramsay Street, where the TV programme 'Neighbours' is filmed.
City centre highlights included Melbourne Zoo, the old Victoria streets in Carlton, the Botanical Gardens, Victoria Market – a mecca for food lovers! – and St Kilda beach area, just a 20 minute tram ride from the city centre.
Although the gridded street layout is easy to follow, the city is quite sprawling and some of the streets quite steep. So I made use of the excellent and extensive tram system.
There's a free City Circle tram which runs around the outside of the central area of the city between 10am to 6pm; for the other tram routes make sure you have lots of change on you for the ticket machine on board.
Melbourne deserves it's reputation as the foodie capital of Australia: there are masses of cafes, delis, smoothie bars, restaurants and food courts to suit every taste.
On a limited budget I'd recommend: Porchetta's on Victoria Street for cheap and filling Italian meals; giant-size muffins from Muffin Break (various branches); satay at Golden Orchids restaurant on Little Bourke Street; huge slabs of cheesecake at Café Trevi on Lygon Street; Acland Street for its pastries and gelati; and the food court below Hotel Sofitel. The best supermarket I found was Safeway, near the State Library on Londsdale Street.
A week in Melbourne was plenty long enough to see all the sights and surrounding areas of interest. I felt perfectly safe as a female traveller on my own; I wouldn't say I found people particularly friendly but they were unpretentious and what you see is what you get.
I'm glad I finally made it, but there are too many other tempting places to see in Australia for me to imagine returning to Melbourne again.
Travel guide: Melbourne
Melbourne: Great for city slickers
Melbourne is an attractive city divided by the Yarra River. To the north lies a variety of retail outlets from souvenir shops to elegant department stores. There are theatres, cinemas, banks, in fact everything you would expect of a major city.
An abundance of restaurants graces the streets — fast food diners, most types of ethnic cuisine and Chinatown.
Victoria is known as the garden state. Melbourne has large expanses of parkland, like the Royal Botanical Gardens, which lead into Kings Domain where you'll find the Sydney Myers Music Bowl.
The Domain is also the site of the Shrine of Remembrance, a memorial to Victorians who lost their lives in the First World War.
There are numerous tours and the Tourist Information Centre displays short films of most of the attractions.
One of our favorite tours was the Penguin Parade at Phillip Island. Every evening at sunset, thousands of tiny penguins emerge from the sea and cross the beach to their nests in the surrounding sand dunes.
Other favourites were a trip through the Dandenong Range on the Puffing Billy steam train and panning for gold at Sovereign Hill in Ballarat, a recreation of a gold mining town.
We also travelled along the Great Ocean Road to see the 12 Apostles, stunning outcrops of limestone at the base of the cliffs.
Hiring a car is an option. Plan your journey in advance though because the toll road is expensive.
Melbourne's suburbs have plenty to offer as well. Take the tram to Little Italy, walk along Lygon Street and experience its culture, not only in language but also in food.
For those interested in literature, browse in Readings, an old established bookstore or cross the road to the more modern Borders, complete with its own cafe.
Treasury and Fitzroy Gardens separate east Melbourne from the city and are a short walk from the centre.
Children will enjoy the model village and fairy tree carved and painted with pixies, kangaroos and possums.
See Captain Cook's cottage, his former Yorkshire home which was transported to Melbourne and reconstructed stone by stone.
For cricket and Australian Rules football fans, Melbourne Cricket Ground is close by.
South of Melbourne are two beach resorts. St Kilda, with its promenade for roller skaters and tempting cake shops, is only a short distance by tram. Brighton Beach, with its quaint bathing boxes, is further around the bay.
Our Christmas holiday in Melbourne was a great success.
It's impossible to see everything in one visit and we can't wait to return, not only to see our son, but to see some of the attractions we missed.
Travel guide: Melbourne
New Year Down Under
A beautiful, cosmopolitan city, full of restaurants, parks and great shopping. I went in December, and spent New Year's Eve in the centre of Melbourne. It was spectacular, but the fireworks weren't as good as those we see in Sydney harbour.
With a wide choice of dining available, the Chinatown area is particularly good, but seafood restaurants win hands down. If you're idea of fun is people-watching, try the cafes in Acland Street, where all the beautiful people hang out.
For a getaway from city life, the Mornington peninsula, south of Melbourne, is very picturesque, with great scuba diving, amazing beaches, wineries galore and many other activities to keep you busy.
It's where the Melbournites go on their weekends and holidays, though, so it's best to avoid it in the holiday season.
Travel guide: Melbourne
Sports-mad city
Melbourne has great parks and gardens - the Royal Botanic gardens were beautiful and we had cream tea by the lake, sheltering from the blistering heat under a shady tree.
In Fitzroy Gardens we were a bit confused to see Captain Cook's cottage - brought over brick-by-brick from Yorkshire, strange but true.
My sports-mad man couldn't rest until he'd been to the national gallery of sport and the Olympics, but even I had to admit it was quite interesting. We also trolled round Melbourne cricket club, where you can browse yourself or take a guided tour.
I loved the art deco buildings downtown - they are beautifully preserved and kept up.
I had to get some huge blisters on my feet pierced by a doctor who had an office in one of these architectural gems and it helped take the edge off my discomfort.
Travel guide: Melbourne
Slow down and don't do too much
Australia is enormous - don't try to pack in too much. It's a temptation when you've gone all that way, but you'll end up not enjoying anything because you'll be too tired.
Don't expect to "do" cities like Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth and certainly not Sydney in anything less than three days.
It's also great to get a perspective on things by not flying everywhere, but slowing down and taking a train journey.
We took a 32-hour trip from Brisbane to Cairns and it was brilliant to just chill out and enjoy the scenery - sleeping on the train was very relaxing - and I liked being woken up by the chirpy steward with my morning cuppa.
Travel guide: Melbourne
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| | Destination Guide : Melbourne |
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| | | Elegant, multicultural metropolis |  | Why go on holiday to Melbourne?
It's a vibrant, multicultural city, which is passionate about its arts, sports, food, wine and the good life. It may lack the physical impact of Sydney, and takes a little more time to discover, but Melbourne has something for everyone.
How much does it cost?
Depending on the season you can get flights from only £400 if you're lucky. Prices increase dramatically during Dec/Jan. With accommodation, you have a great choice of everything from B&Bs and guesthouses to deluxe hotels. Prices start from around £30pp.
When should I go?
Australian seasons are the opposite of those in Europe. It's hot in December and many Aussies spend Christmas at the beach. Melbourne has four seasons, with no great extremes. It has half the rainfall of Sydney and Brisbane.
Summer highs are around 26C (79F), spring and autumn highs around 20C (68F) and winter maximum about 13C (55F) - it rarely snows here.
There are year-round festivals and events including the F1 Grand Prix (March), Melbourne Film Festival (June), the Melbourne International Festival (October) and the Melbourne Cup horserace (November).
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| | | Take a tram ride |  | What should I do when I'm there?
Melbourne is an intriguing blend of old and new. Places worth visiting include The Block Arcade, a 19th-century shopping complex; and the Rialto Towers skyscrapers, built in the 1980s, where you'll get some spectacular views.
There are lots of museums to visit, including Scienceworks, the Maritime Museum and a great art gallery. There are also lots of open spaces to enjoy, including the lovely Royal Botanic Gardens and the Flagstaff Gardens.
How do I get around?
If Melbourne has a symbol, it's the green and yellow tram. They are an integral part of the city. There's even a tram restaurant - the Colonial Tramcar - which cruises through the city centre. Melbourne is also a good city to walk.
What's a good day out?
There are plenty of worthwhile destinations within an hour's drive of Melbourne, including the fine beaches and seaside towns of Bellarine and the mysterious Hanging Rock.
For a day out at a wildlife sanctuary, visit the famous penguin parade at Phillip Island or the Werribee park and zoo.
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| | | Arts, pubs and comedy | | Where's good for nightlife?
The Southgate complex on the river, which includes the enormous Crown Casino, is definitely worth a look. There are acres of bars, shops, restaurants and a couple of theatres, as well as the gigantic gambling halls.
Melbourne has a great live music scene and its own symphony orchestra. Being the home of the Australian film industry, all kinds of movies are on show, from classic to art house - try the art deco Astor in St Kilda.
There's also a great tradition of stand up comedy here, and countless pubs and cafes around Fitzroy, the east of the city and St Kilda.
What's the food like?
Melbourne is a great city for food - of every description. Even veggies will find themselves catered for at a few inexpensive but good eateries.
Greek, Chinese, Spanish, Vietnamese, Italian - it's all here, reflecting a rich and varied cultural city scene. Try Southgate, on the south bank of the Yarra river, for classy dining overlooking the river and the city.
Chinatown is in the middle of the city and Lygon St just to the north is a hotbed of Italian restaurants. Chapel St is the place to see and be seen.
What should I buy?
If you are looking for Aboriginal art, craft and souvenirs, head to Flinders Lane and Swanston St. Chapel St in South Yarra has the most fashionable boutiques.
If you're interested in the local craft scene, go to Meat Market Craft Centre in Blackwood Street. The Queen Victoria market has more than 1,000 stalls with something for everyone. City centre department stores include the smart David Jones.
What is there for children to do?
The Royal Melbourne Zoo, Luna Park and the Puffing Billy steam train are all popular choices. There are good museum programmes for kids and the usual bowling alleys, ice-rinks and go-kart racing.
Tourist office
Tourism Victoria, Victoria House, Australia Centre, Melbourne Place, The Strand, London WC2B 4LG. Tel. 020 7240 7176. Brochures for Australia, call 09068 633235 (60p per minute).
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| | Fact File : Melbourne |
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| | | Melbourne | | Did you know?
Captain Cook's 1755 Yorkshire home was shipped stone by stone to Melbourne, where it now stands in Fitzroy Gardens.
Language
English
Visas
British citizens staying less than three months can get a free electronic travel authority (ETA) from any IATA registered travel agent
Getting there
Melbourne Airport serves both domestic and international flights. It's more spacious than Sydney and has speedy immigration and customs.
Flying time from London
22 hours
Getting around
The city has an easy-to-use public transport system, including bus trains and trams.
Currency
Australian dollar
Costs
Pint of beer £1, roll of film £1.50, moderate restaurant meal £10, litre of petrol 30p, short taxi ride £4. All prices will vary.
Weather
Melbourne has four seasons, with no great extremes. It has half the rainfall of Sydney and Brisbane. Summer highs are around 26C (79F), spring and autumn highs around 20C (68F) and winter maximums are about 13C(55F). Remember Australian seasons are opposite to ours (eg: their summer is December to February).
Time difference
10 hours ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 61 3
Voltage
220-240 volts, AC 50Hz. The Aussie three-pin plug is different to ours
Opening hours
Shops generally 9 to 5.30 Mon-Sat (though some shops close early Saturday). In Adelaide larger stores open on Sundays from 10 to 4. Banks usually open 9.30 to 4. Post offices 9 to 5 Mon-Fri and Post Shops on Saturday mornings.
Health - Before you go
No jabs needed. The UK has reciprocal health arrangements with Australia via Medicare but you have to enrol for this and it doesn't cover all costs so make sure you have sufficient travel insurance.
Health - When you are there
Melbourne has one of the highest standards of tap water in the world - make sure you drink plenty of it as when the temperature climbs it's easy to get dehydrated.
Emergency
Police 000. British High Commission - Commonwealth Avenue, Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT 2600. Tel. 61 2 6270 6666.
Customs
Melbourne is known for its style - bring your best clothes.
Pets
As of January 2001, Australia has been included in the PETS travel scheme under long-haul regulations. However, this is a long and complicated procedure requiring vaccinations, medical check-ups and route planning; it is not as simple as walking on and off a plane with your pet. Therefore the scheme is more suited to those returning from a long stay abroad, rather than the two-week holidaymaker. It takes several months to set up the relevant documentation; see your vet for further details.
Tipping
10% if you are feeling generous.
Tourist office
Tourism Victoria, Australia Centre, Melbourne Place, The Strand, London WC2B 4LG.
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