Travel Guides: All Countries / Africa / Tanzania
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| | | | Walking with elephants
From The Daily Mail
We are walking through a spectacular valley in Tanzania's Selous game reserve. Batelour eagles, the acrobats of the air, are spinning high above us.
A small herd of impalas has spotted us and are dancing away in mild alarm. Unconcerned, a family group of giraffes, the telegraph poles of the game world, continue to graze on trees.
Suddenly an angry trumpeting splits the air and two elephants appear from behind trees a few hundred yards distant.
'One of the older elephants just told a youngster to stop grazing on her tree,' says our guide, Dean McGregor.
Two adult females with young walk into view. One has a tiny baby sheltered between her legs. 'It's probably about 18 months old.
Now look at the others - a matriarchal cow is leading the group and that's a teenage bull following her.'
More elephants stride out, walking parallel to where we have settled in the shade of a tree.
The wind has been favouring us. But suddenly the lead elephant stops and delicately lifts her trunk, tasting the air to determine who is out there.
Dean explains that elephants have bad eyesight and indifferent hearing, but they have a tremendous sense of smell.
On foot you are simply another animal in the African bush. You have a different perception of the landscape and the animals from the usual driving safari, when noise and petrol fumes mask the breaking twigs, wind and birdsong.
Travel guide: Tanzania
Conquering Kilimanjaro
From the Mail on Sunday
It started out as a crazy idea. We were flying over Kilimanjaro on our return from visiting South African projects supported by Elton's AIDS Foundation.
My friend Johnny Bergius suggested how brilliant it would be to climb the famous mountain.
Then fate intervened. We opened our in-flight magazine straight to an article about Challenges Unlimited, a British company specialising in setting up fund-raising events in Africa.
Which is how we came to be tackling the 19,340ft Tanzanian mountain - aiming to reach the summit on December 1 for World AIDS Day.
Our mate Janet Street-Porter heard our plans and asked to join.
With all her rambling experience and her hysterical sense of humour (she decided to rename the expedition 'Tantrums in Tents' mocking my Nineties TV documentary film about Elton, Tantrums And Tiaras), we knew she would be a brilliant addition to the team.
Johnny and I hoped to raise £100,000 to promote awareness of HIV/AIDS - 28.1 million people have been infected in Africa alone and back home it is on the increase.
We actually received £625,000. We've got some generous friends even if some are cynical.
'Why is David climbing to the top of Kilimanjaro?' asked one. 'Have they opened a new Gucci up there?'
He was not to know how seriously I was taking the project - starting a get-fit regime to lose my love handles and strengthen my heart and leg muscles, even joining The Third Space in Soho for its hypoxic training room allowing me to work out in an environment that simulates 8,500ft of altitude.
Was it worth it? Over to my diary notes...
Travel guide: Tanzania
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| | | | Africa in your boots
On a walking safari, you can feel wild Africa through your boots.
And the Selous in southern Tanzania is one of Africa's wildest places, a game reserve larger than Switzerland and the greatest stronghold of big game anywhere.
Dean McGregor is leading three of us on a five-day walk and imparting some of his vast knowledge of life in the bush.
At the start of each walk, Dean reviews the hand signals which will tell us to stop, be very quiet or retreat very rapidly.
He carries a .458 rifle - a gun large enough to stop anything we will encounter if necessary.
But Dean's experience and knowledge of the bush make that an unlikely prospect.
Not only does Dean impart confidence, he shares his passion for the wild. Under his guidance, our senses improve with every walk and we learn to recognise animal tracks, trees and even insect behaviour.
Although walking safaris allow you the excitement of being part of the food chain, predators are not a real threat - the big cats are nocturnal hunters.
Dean is dismissive of them: 'Lions are full of hot air except at night when they are bold. Hippos are the problem child of this area, even more than buffalo.'
Surprisingly, hippos are the most dangerous animal to men in Africa.
They are highly territorial, remarkably fast on foot, seem permanently bad-tempered and have very large tusks.
Dear diary
Friday, November 23
Janet meets Johnny and me at Nairobi Airport, then we fly on south into the hot, steamy sunshine to Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania.
Our last night in civilisation is spent at the Moivaro coffee plantation-outside Arusha. We guiltily enjoy the cocktails. It will be a long, dry nine days on the mountain.
Saturday, November 24
After a 6am wake-up call, we throw our gear into the Jeep and drive three hours over bouncy rough roads to the Londorossi Gate where we must register with the park's officials.
We drive on to the base of the Lemosho Trail, where the tour organisers have laid out a massive picnic before we begin our climb. We meet our Tanzanian guides, Joachim and Felix, who will accompany us to the top. A group of porters will carry our heavy gear, food and tents.
Then it's a four-hour plodding climb through the muggy rainforest, crammed full of the most beautiful array of flora among verdant valleys, to The Big Tree camp (9,170ft). Our tents are erected and we flop down into the mess tent for tea and popcorn. We unpack our gear, unroll our sleeping bags and enjoy big plates of beef stew and macaroni before heading for bed.
The chatter of colobus monkeys and the shriek of tree hyraxes interrupt my sleep.
Sunday, November 25
At 6am, I awake to the sound of a bird which is exactly like the warning beep on a reversing lorry. I'm convinced someone is trying to make a delivery to our camp!
Big bowls of porridge and plates of eggs and sausage are wolfed down before we set off.
Within hours, we have left the rainforest far behind. Then the moorland, packed full of shrubs, pampas grass and tiny wild flowers like camomile and coloured clover with the occasional protea plant, thins out as we begin crossing into the Shira Caldera, a high altitude desert plateau rarely visited by man.
Cloud envelopes us and then we're walking though rain until, after a five-hour climb, we reach our camp at Shira One (11,500ft) and endless cups of Kilimanjaro tea.
I hand wash one of my four pairs of travel knickers and hope they will dry by morning.
Another delicious dinner (oxtail soup, chicken curry and spinach) and I beat Janet at Travel Scrabble before heading off to bed.
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| | | | Pods of hippos
By midday, we have walked 15 kilometres in stages on the smooth game trails worn down by animals over generations.
The intense birdsong of the early morning is replaced by stillness. We make our way to the banks of the Rufiji, the biggest river in East Africa.
I strip off my boots and walk barefoot over the sand. The water looks inviting but the Rufiji boasts the highest population of crocodiles and hippos in the world.
We content ourselves with watching lightning-beautiful kingfishers as Dean radios the boat from our camp on a river island nearby.
As we glide downriver, we watch pods of hippos peeking from the water and snorting comically at our boat.
Crocodiles bask on the sand and a troop of baboons chatters and chases along the shore. Overhead, magnificent fish eagles perch and watch for prey.
Landing on the island, we climb up a small rise in the woods above the beach. A cooler of cold drinks and a table laden with delicious food has magically appeared in the wilderness.
The camp servants have even set up a canvas washbasin.
After lunch, we lounge on a huge groundsheet under the trees with our bedrolls as cushions.
Several hours later, we are woken from our siesta to pots of tea and cakes before our short afternoon walk.
Although wild encounters are at the heart of a walking safari, roughing it does not include leaving comforts behind.
Can't see a bloody thing
Monday, November 26
Today is a complete nightmare. After waking several times through the night to the sound of thrashing rain, I awake with abdominal cramps.
As everything is so damp my travel knickers are still wringing wet.
As soon as breakfast is finished, I make a mad dash for the camp loo (a phone box-sized tent over a hole in the ground) suffering a wicked case of the trots.
I start to panic and worry that the first signs of altitude sickness are setting in.
The first leg of the walk is fairly flat and I lean heavily on my walking poles for support. We walk across the crater of Shira volcano to make a scenic detour up a jutting ridge called Shira Cathedral (13,500ft).
With dextrose tablets under my tongue and Dioralyte in my drinking water, my strength returns.
The climb up Shira Cathedral is very steep and littered with chunks of volcanic rock, cacti and various succulents. We abandon our daypacks at the base and scramble up the rock face.
We're supposed to have the most breathtaking views of the volcanic crater and the summit of Kibo, the highest peak, but we can't see a bloody thing.
Janet jokes: 'I hope we're climbing the right mountain.'
Joachim tells me to switch on my mobile and I get a five-bar signal. I ring Elton who is thrilled to hear from us.
We clamber back down the rocks to retrieve our daypacks and eat a packed lunch. The rain is relentless on a two-hour walk to our next camp at Shira Hut (12,500ft).
Everyone's waterproofs are saturated.
Janet collapses on her sleeping bag in tears and Johnny is beyond flat.
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| | | | A remarkable adventure
The walking safaris, five or seven days long, are catered by half-a-dozen camp servants.
If you can walk and love animals, it is a remarkable adventure. There are unexpected surprises on every walk, besides the big game.
One cool early morning, we discover hundreds of small webs spread out on bushes and trees. Covered with dew, they sparkle like jewels in the sunlight.
Between the walks, we take river trips on the Rufiji, drifting downstream with a cool box of cold drinks.
One afternoon we pull the boat ashore to explore a nearby lake which feeds into the river. As we approach the emerald-green lake, a large monitor lizard catapults into the water.
On the opposite shore, a herd of 20 giraffes stride majestically in the golden light.
All around us, hundreds of delicate dragonflies surround us to snatch the tiny insects we disturb in the grass.
Every night our camp moves, always to an even more beautiful location: a river island, a high bank above the Rufiji, or on the shores of one the Selous's small lakes.
We drink sundowners in camp chairs followed by hot showers suspended in the trees. After dinner we sit around the campfire and discuss the sights of the day.
Dean tells how elephants communicate, which plants are used to tip poison arrows by tribesmen, how the honeybird leads men to beehives and answers my question about lions.
Yes, he says, lions do purr, but only while exhaling, unlike domestic cats.
We retreat to our beds, comfortable bedrolls on mattresses under individual tents of mosquito net.
The Milky Way seems to have thousands more stars in Africa.
For as long as I can stay awake, I watch the stars as they cartwheel over my head and then dream of purring lions.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
There are direct flights to Tanzania on British Airways (http://www.britishairways.com tel: 0845 77 333 77).
Journeys by Design (http://www.journeysbydesign.co.uk tel: 01273 623790) offers a seven-night walk in the Selous. Roxton Bailey Robinson (http://www.rbrww.com tel: 01488 689700) offers walking safaris.
The only season to avoid is during the rains in March and April when most safari operations take breaks.
Take comfortable hiking boots, lightweight binoculars, a good hat for the tropical sun, high-factor sunscreen and anti-mosquito protection for the evenings.
The majestic peak
Tuesday, November 27
Hallelujah! I rise at 6am to the most glorious sight.
The majestic peak of Kilimanjaro is bathed in warm sunshine and so are we.
Kibo is covered in glaciers and snow and the opposite view of the volcanic crater of Shira is amazing. We can finally mark our progress and it is massively inspiring.
Everyone drags his or her wet gear on to the rocks to dry out.
After another porridge and egg-and-sausage breakfast we pack up and move on towards Barranco Valley up the southern flank of the mountain.
Today's trek will take us over 15,000ft.
Many people develop blinding headaches, dizziness and vomiting above 14,000ft, so it will be a chance to test ourselves and acclimatise further.
The sunshine is short-lived and a thick freezing mist rises up and brings some hail along with it. Hail turns to rain (on this mountain you get four seasons in one day).
To prevent my daypack from getting soaked through I wrap it with my metallic emergency blanket, which resembles a big sheet of Baco-foil.
I now look like I am hiking with a huge Christmas turkey on my back.
We finally pass 15,000ft and everyone feels great. By the time we get to camp, we have walked eight hours and we're knackered.
More great fortifying food - Hungarian goulash and chips.
After dinner Janet insists on a Scrabble rematch, but after 45 minutes our eyelids begin to droop and we turn in.
Tonight is the coldest night so far. Ground frost is setting in. I zip my sleeping bag up tight over my head and woolly hat.
At 4am my bladder wakes me up and I streak outside. The stars are spectacular. The moon illuminates the snowy peak of Kibo and glistens off the frost-coated rocks around our camp.
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| | | | Plethora of rubbish
Wednesday, November 28
Today we have to scale the 700ft sheer rock face of Barranco Wall.
We set off slowly so we can breathe more evenly. I take each rock at a time and try not to look down too much and induce my vertigo.
After an hour, we reach the top and I slug back half a litre of water in celebration.
Our route now takes us down into Karanga Valley (relief) but we're on a main trail and I am disgusted by the plethora of rubbish, sweet wrappers, drinking boxes and fag ends left behind by other climbers.
The terrain becomes treacherous, a mix of mud, boulders and tiny stones and when we arrive at camp (13,500 ft) Janet has a mini-strop about her tent being set up on an angle on the uneven ground.
After a dinner of corned beef stew, white rice and vegetables, Janet and I finish our Scrabble game from the night before.
She is in the lead until I lay down the seven-letter word 'tollers' and eke out another victory.
Thursday, November 29
After another 4am lavatory emergency, we rise at 7am so we can try climbing up the 45-degree scree slopes in Karanga Valley.
At one point, Johnny tries to rush ahead and is overcome with waves of nausea and breathlessness. You really have to pace yourself.
All the way up, we experience freezing fog, rain and snow. Getting to 15,500 ft is brutal on our legs and by the time we move back down to Karanga Valley High Camp, I have a splitting headache. Another tough day.
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| | | | Strength and stamina
Friday, November 30
Today, I am extremely anxious and apprehensive. Getting to Barafu High Camp at 16,000ft will be a real test of my body's acclimatising ability and my crampy stomach won't make it any easier.
The 6.30 sunrise is spectacular. Gorgeous views of Mount Meru and the frosty Kibo peak.
I force myself to eat breakfast. As Janet is in a particularly grumpy mood this morning, Johnny hangs some garlic outside her tent, which sends everyone into fits of laughter.
Karanga is the last place we can get fresh water, so all water will need to be carted up the mountain to the next camp. The porters carry huge containers of it. Their strength and stamina is truly awe-inspiring.
We stop for a box lunch at Barafu Hut camp, a bleak and depressing place. Our goal is to continue for another hour and a half to the Barafu Ridge High Camp. After lunch, we soldier on and reach our new camp by mid-afternoon.
Tonight is the big night. In order to reach the summit, Uhuru Point, by sunrise, we have to leave camp by 1.30am and climb another 3,600ft. We all flop into our tents and try to get some rest. At 6pm, we are woken and given a dinner of the most garlicky soup, fried chicken and rice.
After that, it's straight back to bed until our wake-up call.
Saturday, December 1
This is it! At 1am we are woken up and quickly layer-up for the final approach. With the wind chill, the temperature will drop down to minus 30 centigrade, so...
Three pairs of thermal long-johns, windproof trousers then waterproof trousers, silk thermal shirt, two thermal wool pullovers, fleece and hooded down jacket. Also balaclava with head torch to illuminate our path.
Janet and Johnny and I set off steadily zigzagging up the scree with the four guides, one carrying oxygen and medical equipment just in case.
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| | | | Spectacular volcanic rim
Every step requires intense concentration-Johnny and I feel strong but Janet is really suffering. She has to stop every few minutes to catch her breath and the cramps in her stomach are agonising.
After a few hours, Johnny and I feel frustrated by the slow pace. We need to move more quickly as my fingers and toes are going numb and Johnny is beginning to show the first signs of hypothermia. Janet collapses into the arms of one of the guides and Johnny and I make the tough decision to split into two groups.
We will continue with Felix and another guide, while Janet will try to press on with the two others.
We pick the pace up considerably. The views are astounding. The rising sun illuminates huge glaciers and, under the warmth of a blazing sunrise, we finally reach Stella Point. We're totally elated. From here, the path levels off and it will take an additional 45 minutes to reach Uhuru Point.
We traverse around the spectacular volcanic rim of Kibo and finally reach our goal at 7.30am. Everyone is jubilant and takes turns having their picture taken in front of the landmark sign.
Johnny and I unwrap a red kite with a long red tail that resembles the famous AIDS Awareness ribbon. A gust of chilly wind lifts it out of our hands and the kite symbolically takes flight.
The time for celebration has passed and it's time to move on.
We may have climbed 3,600ft today, but now we have to descend 7,200ft to the Mweka Hut camp with an hour's break at Barafu High Camp.
Janet has returned safely and is in her tent resting. She continued ascending after us and made it as far as Gillman's Point before her body completely shut down. Still, she managed to climb 18,650ft - an incredible achievement.
We have walked for more than 14 hours in a day. Sleep comes rapidly.
Sunday, December 2
A final six-hour trek through the rain forest. Everyone's feet are sore and blistered but the warm welcome we receive at Mweka Gate boosts our spirits.
We've done it and have raised hundreds of thousands of pounds for AIDS awareness. Life doesn't get much sweeter or more satisfying.
If you would like to make a pledge or support the Elton John AIDS Foundation, ring 020 7603 9996 or visit www.eltonjohn.com Charity climbs can be arranged through Jeremy Gane at Challenges Unlimited on 020 8557 0000 or by email: info@charitychallenge.com
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| | Destination Guide : Tanzania |
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| | | Sensational safari |  | Why go on holiday to Tanzania?
To see animals in the wild. Tanzania is home to a mind-boggling array of great beasts swinging, swimming, flying, trumpeting and stalking their way across the awesome plains.
Add to this excellent beach resorts and the timeless vivacity of Zanzibar, the great spice island.
How much does it cost?
A return flight between London and Dar es Salaam costs from around £500 at time of writing. A mid-range hotel room costs from £15-£40 a night. A sample seven-night safari including flights, hotel accommodation and some meals costs from £1,400 per person.
When should I go?
High season is from late June to October, when the rains have finished and it is coolest (27C/80F).
A less expensive and second-best time of year to go is from late December to February just before the long rains, although it is hotter (33C/92F). April to early June, when it rains, is the low season.
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| | | Get spicy on Zanzibar | | What should I do when I'm there?
Go on safari. There are more than 13,000 sq miles of national park in Tanzania including the famous (and largest) Serengeti National Park - watch the annual migration of up to two million wildebeest.
Also visit Mikumi, Udzungwa Mountains, Rubondo Island and Ruaha National Parks.
Other highlights are the Ngorongoro Conservation Area set in a huge crater, the vast and rugged Selous Game reserve, the Makonde Plateau and the shores of Lake Victoria.
What if I want to climb a mountain?
Try Mt Kilimanjaro for size. Africa's highest peak (5,896m/19,345ft) has forest, meadow and a barren, rocky summit. Buffalo, rhino, elephants and leopards are just some of the residents. The climb is not easy, but you'll be glad you did it.
And after the safari?
Take a break on the island of Zanzibar. This ancient island has lured just about every race and civilisation with its spices. The old town is a dazzling kaleidoscope of mosques, bazaars, mansions and fortresses.
Hook up with one of the numerous tours and take in the plantations and forests, then head for the beach. Pemba is another island of great beaches and reefs and also boasts fascinating ancient ruins.
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| | | Outdoor meditation | | Where's good for nightlife?
Dar es Salaam, and Arusha have the best nightclubs, and every town has a bar. Many hotels offer live music.
Alternatively, take advantage of where you are and sit quietly outside one evening, look out over the plains and listen to nature's nightlife.
What's the food like?
Outside the cities and major towns the choice of food is fairly limited. Lunch is the main meal and one of the more common local dishes is ugali, made from maize or cassava flour with a sauce containing meat, fish, beans and/or greens.
Also common are cooked plantain with rice and grilled meat (nyama choma). On the coast expect seafood dishes cooked in coconut.
What should I buy?
Basketry, wood carving, textiles and paintings are the local crafts and you will find them all in Dar es Salaam. Carved gourds called vibuyu are sold in Dodoma and great textile buys are to be had in Zanzibar town.
What is there for children to do?
To switch off the Lion King home video and see lions and wildebeest for real is something most children can only dream of. National parks and many hotels offer discounts for children's entrance fees and accommodation.
Tourist office
Tanzanian Trade Centre and Tourist Office, 80 Borough High Street, London SE1 1LL. Tel. 020 7407 0566.
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| | Fact File : Tanzania |
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| | | Tanzania | | Did you know?
Safari is a Swahili word for "to journey".
Language
Swahili and English.
Visas
Visas are required but rules are subject to sudden and frequent changes. Check with the tourist office.
Getting there
Direct flights from London to Dar es Salaam depart on Mondays and Thursdays. Alternatively, you can fly via Nairobi or Mombasa.
Flying time from London
Eleven hours
Getting around
Air Tanzania and several private airlines run services between major centres - some of them accept $US cash only. There are two train lines connecting major towns. Buses (dalla-dallas) run in more rural areas but are hazardous - fatal accidents are not uncommon. Driving in general is risky due to bad roads and a high incidence of accidents. Hire a four-wheel-drive vehicle if you plan to go outside major towns. Ferries operate on Lake Victoria, Lake Tanganyika and Lake Nyasa.
Currency
Tanzanian Shilling (TSh)
Costs
Litre of petrol 60p; bottle of beer £1; moderate restaurant meal £6-£11; camera film £2-£2.50; four-mile taxi ride £2.50. All prices may fluctuate.
Weather
Tanzania's climate varies - in general it is hottest from December to March and coolest from June to October. The rainy seasons are from mid-March to May and around November/December. By the coast it is tropical, with high humidity and temperatures ranging from 27-29C (80-84F). The central plateau is cooler: 20-27C (68-80F) from June to August, and 30C (86F) and above from December to March.
Time difference
Three hours ahead of GMT.
International dialling code from the UK
00 255
Voltage
230V, 50Hz, AC. Power cuts occur but don't usually last for long; power surges are not uncommon. Plugs vary but are usually the British variety. Take an adapter to be on the safe side.
Opening hours
Government offices are open from 7.30am-3.30pm Monday to Friday. Business hours are from 8am-5pm Monday to Friday and from 8.30am-1pm Saturday. Shops may close for an hour between noon and 2pm and on Friday afternoons for mosque services.
Health - Before you go
Visit your GP at least two months before departure. You will need to take precautionary measures for malaria and vaccinations are recommended for yellow fever, hepatitis A, hepatitis B, polio, rabies and typhoid. Medical facilities and medicine in Tanzania are limited so take all necessary medication with you including treatment for diarrhoea. Be sure to take out travel insurance.
Health - When you are there
Cholera outbreaks do occur so drink boiled and filtered or bottled water. HIV/Aids is highly prevalent. Observe strict food hygiene - if you can cook it, boil it or peel it, you can eat it. Trekkers on Kilimanjaro should be aware of the hazards of altitude sickness.
Warnings
In Zanzibar, steer clear of any political gathering as things can get volatile, and avoid deserted beaches. Be extra diligent with your belongings on public transport or the beach, and exercise caution when in vehicles; keep doors locked and windows shut. Random incidents of banditry do occur in the northern national parks.
Emergency
Dial 999. British High Commission, PO Box 9200, Hifadhi House, Samora Avenue, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Tel. (255)(51) 117 659/(255)(51) 112 950. Fax: (255)(51) 112 951.
Customs
Zanzibar is a Muslim society so it's wise to dress modestly, especially in Stone Town.
Pets
Not advisable. Quarantine rules would apply when bringing your pet back into the UK.
Tipping
Tip safari drivers, guides and porters.
Tourist office
Tanzanian Trade Centre and Tourist Office, 80 Borough High Street, London SE1 1LL. Tel. 020 7407 0566.
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| | Available rental properties in Tanzania |
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| |  | | Habibi Beach House
Beautiful stylish high end 3/4 bed (ensuites) sleeps 10, beachside house with pool set in private gardens. Full kitchen/laundry/sat tv. Staffed, self catering or staffed kitchen
|  | | The Kipepeo Lodge
A charming resort in Zanzibar. It rises on the beach in front of the Indian Ocean. It has five double rooms, each one with a view to the ocean.
|  | | Kimori House, Marangu, Tanzania
Stay in this unique, spacious house high on the NE slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro. Relax in the temperate mountain climate, and experience African villa
|  | | Villa Turquoise, Zanzibar
Luxurious, fully equipped and serviced villa with private beach and private pool on the beach in Zanzibar. Breathtaking views on the lagoon and the In
|  | | rahalodge
brand new fantastic villa, with all comforts, direct on a wonderful beach
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Holiday Rentals in Tanzania |
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Why Rent With Us
