Travel Guides: All Countries / Caribbean / Antigua
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| | | | Review by Joanna Campbell from London
Great destination for a holiday
Who needs a tan?
From the Mail on Sunday
On my previous visits to the Caribbean, the nearest I've got to the local culture is a proposition from a Rent-a-Rasta. On my Leeward Island tour round St Kitts, Nevis and Antigua I was deluged with history and local colour, as well as all the banana daiquiris a girl can drink.
I flew into St Kitts, then took a seven-minute flight to sister island Nevis. The plane was surely first used by Amelia Earhart. My pilot had a limp and a cataract but seemed calm. This was, after all, the local taxi service. The Nevis airport is a large hut.
'St Kitts is bigger, so they get the lion's share of the money,' explained English expat Margaret Carson, steering her jeep around potholes and donkeys. 'That's why we might split. We'll be the world's smallest country. Only 8,000 people.'
Margaret took on Old Manor, a former sugar plantation, five years ago. Most hotels in St Kitts-Nevis are the old houses of British slave-owners. My palatial suite was once occupied by Chanel model Stella Tennant, although she probably didn't make as big a dent in the bed as I did. From my veranda I could see Mount Nevis. The hotel is in the hills, where it benefits from a cooling breeze.
Margaret runs a shuttle service to the beach, but that wasn't on my itinerary. My days were spent imbibing the island's historical past, my nights imbibing G&Ts with its expat present. I lunched at the Montpelier Inn, made famous by Princess Diana when she stayed here in 1992. Two hundred years previously, it was the site of Nelson's wedding to governor's daughter Fanny Nisbet.
There's not much in the capital, Charlestown, apart from a smelly fish market, a few shops full of tourist tat and some stalls selling breadfruit and yams. The locals shop in St Kitts. Earla, a guide who is writing a book about local plants, took me on a nature trail round Gingerland. Virtually every plant on Nevis can be used in tea or dumplings. 'Soursop is good for men,' she said. 'Calms them down.'
Once a week Margaret holds a plantation dinner, where locals and tourists come to eat and dance to a steel band. Here I met former Guardsman Nigel, a handsome 72-year-old straight from a Jilly Cooper novel. Twice divorced, he still takes a keen interest in the opposite sex.
My next social event was dinner down the hill at The Hermitage Inn. Here, Maureen and Richard from Philadelphia, who have lived on the island for 30 years, have created a sophisticated family atmosphere.
The island has two night-time bars, Eddies and Tequila Sheila's. The daytime bar is Sunshine's, on the beach. Here I drank a Crazy Bee cocktail and listened to reggae artiste Bankie Banks playing as part of his world tour. The sting of a Crazy Bee is sharp. Half a glass had me ready to lie down on the sand and die.
Travel guide: Antigua
The joys of Jumby
From the Daily Mail
A trade wind caressed the pink oleander trees and carried the birdsong of the Antillean crested hummingbird across to Hawkshill Bay, where the endangered sea turtle has bred in peace for centuries. All is tranquil on Jumby Bay Island, a 300-acre paradise retreat, shaped like a horse's head, two miles north-east of Antigua in the Caribbean.
Today there is nothing to endanger the life of man or God's animals. No cars are allowed - transport is by golf buggy - and until recently, bringing children under 14 was discouraged. And in high dudgeon while looking for an extra buck, the previous owners of the resort, a couple of Italian-American vintners, once threatened to cut off the water and electricity supplies to the 18 local homeowners.
They included supermarket grocer Lord Sainsbury, who has colonnaded Candover House, and thriller writer Ken Follett. Thanks to a millionaire's co-op including the above and Robin Leach (American TV's Rich And Famous interlocutor) the island was bought lock, stock and ferry for a rumoured £20 million two years ago.
Its time-stands-still ambience has attracted celebrities such as ex-Beatle George Harrison, model Claudia Schiffer and actor Liam Neeson. Across the scalpel-trimmed lawns, as smooth as a tee approach at St Andrews, to the detergent-white arc of the beaches, the sun-blessed scene is of gently swaying palms with scarlet and yellow hibiscus lighting up the green undergrowth.
Jumby Bay has been British since King Charles I granted it to the present Earl of Carlisle's ancestor in 1627. The gift was made three years before the British settled in Antigua, ushering out the Spanish and French. Christopher Columbus did not land on the Antiguan mainland on his second voyage to the New World, but on passing, and a trifle arrogantly, christened it after the Virgin in Seville Cathedral, Santa Maria de la Antigua.
I remember coming to the Antiguan independence ceremony nearly 20 years ago when Princess Margaret handed over independence on behalf of the Queen in a borrowed tiara (on loan from Lord Glenconner's family). It is still in the Commonwealth with the Queen as Head of State.
And its enormous support by British tourists (it has 40 hotels with 4,500 beds to fill) testifies to its safety, lushness and the beauty of its beaches (one for every day of the year).
Some 28 miles across the turquoise sea, joined by a submarine platform (millions of years ago it was one island), is the 14-mile by eight-mile sister island of Barbuda.
This heavenly spot is where wild pigs and deer outnumber the human population of 1,500. For us, our daily bread came from Tilly's Bakery, a lean-to of a shack in the capital Codrington, where slaves once lived semi-free in their own cottages which still stand.
Travel guide: Antigua
Truly paradise
Sounds "cheesy" but this island really is paradise, especially Galley Bay resort.
It's a beautiful area with beautiful people.
Travel guide: Antigua
It's five star
I went there in November 2002 for a 40th birthday party. The people were really friendly and helpful. A community that are genuinely glad to welcome you to their magical island.
It was five star and I'm going again in 2003.
Travel guide: Antigua
Intoxicating and laid-back
Antigua is one of the most charming of the Caribbean islands. The weather is obviously magnificent and the people have a laid-back air, unhurried but always helpful.
If accosted by a person hawking T-shirts or coconuts, for example, you can politely decline and will not be aggressively pestered, as is perhaps the case in some other Caribbean countries.
Generally the islanders' homes look as if they are about to collapse. Compact and humble, they are obviously satisfactory for the dwellers, but would not be able to withstand a hurricane.
Sunday nights one can visit the highest point, Shirley Heights and enjoy a barbecue, drink beer and dance to the local musicians. And be prepared, loads of people cram into a small place, enjoying the local colour and atmosphere. It's intoxicating - a bit like being in Camden Town at the weekend.
There is little in the way of upmarket or sophisticated shops, but then you're not there for them. You're there to swim in that beautifully clear blue sea and to lounge on the beach and get a suntan. Antigua delivers, with full marks.
Travel guide: Antigua
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| | | | Spying on Eric Clapton
After four days, it was time to move on. So, in another terrifyingly tiny plane, I flew to Antigua, largest of the Leeward Islands and the most heavily developed for tourism.
My tour took in the capital St John's, with its arcades of duty-free shops, and the cricket ground, scene of many Test matches. On the other side of the island I stopped for a drink in English Harbour, centre of the expat community. Shirley Heights has the best view, taking in the sea, the harbour and Eric Clapton's house.
Antigua has more sophisticated places to eat than Nevis. In St John's I went to Julian's, a French restaurant run by a man from Essex. I dined with Julian's business partner Patty, who is married to the former leader of Antigua's opposition party and lives near Eric Clapton. 'I sometimes get the binoculars out to see what's going on in there,' she admitted.
After dinner we went to the bar upstairs and danced the night away with any locals who could be prised from the pool table. Patrick the barman, from south-east London, showed us some line-dancing moves and kept us supplied with gin and tonics.
Back in St Kitts, Seamoss Man, my driver, met me at the airport in a minibus decorated with suggestive stickers. Seamoss has a sideline selling seamoss, a homemade aphrodisiac drink. It must work: he has five children by three different women.
I stayed at American-run Ottley's Plantation Inn, literally something out of a Bacardi advertisement. A family business, it's a 10-minute drive from the capital, Basseterre, a small town of white wooden houses. On my last night I went to the St Kitts music festival. In a muddy field thousands sang along to gospel hits.
Sadly, I had to leave at 2am, as the party was just beginning. Seamoss drove me to the airport, hot sauce and reggae records in my hand luggage. Pallid compared with the tangerine hordes fresh from the beach, I envied them not at all.
Unspoiled serenity
As for the airport, if you can call it that, it's more like arriving at a large garden shed after the 15 minute flight from Antigua. Even today, the fiercely independent locals treat all change with fear and loathing. A rebel throng collected in orderly but belligerent fashion at the idyllic Spanish Point a couple of years ago when a British developer planned to build a hotel on the inhabitants' favourite beach. They tipped both his containers into the sea and herded him off their foreshore.
The common sport among the cognoscenti at Princess Diana's old hideaway, the white and turquoise K Club (its private plane has the same chic livery), is sorting out the mistresses from the wives as both drip in equal measure with diamonds at night.
Nearly three centuries ago, when a British planter from Barbados, Sir Christopher Codrington, was the local sugar daddy and employed 500 slaves on his plantation (he had a lease from the British Crown for 'one fat sheep per year') locals were paid 500lb of sugar for capturing a runaway slave and 200lb for delivering a dead one.
When slavery was outlawed in 1834, Jumby Bay in the north-east of Antigua was leased to emancipated slaves to grow vegetables for selling in the markets of Antigua.
Barbuda now has an edge-of-the-world feeling and an unspoiled serenity with its stunning white beaches which enjoy a tinge of pinkness from the coral reefs off shore. In the thick mangroves of Codrington lagoon is a unique sanctuary for the extraordinary frigate bird which paradoxically detests water and can fly high above the clouds.
Unlike at the K Club, in the mating season you can observe their courtship close up - the tame male puffs up a large red balloon beneath its hooked beak and for some unfathomable reason the female finds this prehistoric fertility rite enthralling and soon finds herself the breadwinner while the male nest-sits the chicks.
On Barbuda life is as emancipated as it gets. There are no TVs, shopping malls, cinemas, theatres, noisy parties or crowded beaches. Crickets chirp, tree frogs croak and yacht bows churn white foam from the pale green waters. No hedonist could ask for more.
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| | Destination Guide : Antigua |
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| | | Typically tropical |  | Why go on holiday to Antigua?
Tourists are attracted to a typically tropical taste of the Caribbean. Beach lovers are spoilt for choice with 365 glorious stretches of fine sand - one for each day of the year. It is also a yacht-lovers' paradise, with excellent sheltered harbours.
Sister island Barbuda has pink sand beaches, coral reefs that are still unspoilt by motor boats, a lagoon and a sleepy, laid-back Caribbean atmosphere.
How much does it cost?
There is a range of accommodation so prices fluctuate. In general, expect a two-week package holiday to start from about £750 on a room-only basis, or £1,100 all-inclusive. Flights only can be found as low as £400, but expect to pay from £600.
When should I go?
Antigua is hot and humid year-round, although tradewinds make it most comfortable from January to April when day temperatures usually hover around 85F/28C. Expect rain at any time of the year, although it is heaviest from September to November.
Hurricane season is from June to November. Carnival starts at the end of July and finishes August 1. Antigua Sailing Week runs for a week from the last Sunday in April.
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| | | From beaches to Betty's Hope | | What should I do when I'm there?
Laze on the beach. Swimming and diving are excellent, with coral canyons, wall drops and sea caves along the Cades Reef and Ariadne Shoal. Snorkelling is recommended along Paradise Reef.
Windsurfers enjoy the sheltered west coast as well as open east coast - depending on experience. Game fishing is popular - marlin, tuna and wahoo are all caught in Antiguan waters.
Hike around the island or join the Hash House Harriers club for a weekly run. Enjoy a game of golf. Twitchers will love the bird sanctuary on sister island Barbuda.
Which are the best beach resorts?
The main resorts are Dickenson Bay and Runaway Bay. Both are fairly low-key by Caribbean standards but Dickenson is the livelier of the two.
The south coast , particularly Falmouth and English Harbour, is popular with yachties. The east coast, where the sea tends to be a bit rougher, is the most isolated part of the island.
What if I'm bored with the beach?
Spend a day at Nelson's Dockyard, named after the British hero, who spent time here. The 18th century harbour has been restored and is now a fashionable yacht marina. Visit Betty's Hope - an old sugar plantation with a fully restored sugar mill.
Rope-swing or walk the plank during a Jolly Roger cruise around the island. Drive to the greenest part of the island with the remnants of rainforest at Fig Tree Hill or to Devil's Bridge - a spectacular outcrop of rocks overhanging the sea.
Take the ferry to Barbuda to sample a truly laid-back Caribbean lifestyle on the tiny unspoiled island and see the Man 'O War birds skimming the water.
Where else is worth a visit?
In the capital, St. John's, see the cathedral, the daily market, the museum with its Arawak village reconstruction and the harbour's Heritage Quay shopping mall for souvenirs and places to eat.
The new Jolly Harbour resort is Antigua's own take on LA, with modern water sports, golf, international cuisine and strange new architectural follies such as mini Spanish castles.
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| | | Heights? Shirley some mistake | | Where's good for nightlife?
Shirley Heights, overlooking English Harbour, vibrates to the sound of steel bands and reggae music every Thursday and Sunday evenings.
Milers by the Sea at Fort James, Spinnakers at Dickenson Bay and Margaritas at Redcliffe Quay in St John's all have live music. The Carnival in late July and early August makes the whole island vibrant, with colourful parades and street parties.
What's the food like?
There's a good range of West Indian, French, Italian, English and North American food. Best is fresh seafood - try the catch of the day. For snacks try roti, large pancakes filled with curry - they're filling, cheap and delicious.
Eat as much Caribbean fruit as you can - you will never taste anything as good outside the region. Antigua has small black pineapples - they look odd but taste good. Wadadli is the local lager, and Cavalier and English Harbour are local rums.
What should I buy?
In St. John's, head for Caribelle Batiks for quality Caribbean-made wall hangings and clothing. At Nelson's Dockyard, The Art Centre sells local artwork, inexpensive prints, T-shirts, jewellery and other souvenirs.
Calabash art is popular - watch for cracks as, contrary to what the seller tells you, if the calabash is still green it will crack more as it dries out. Harmony Hall at Nonsuch Bay has fine arts and crafts with exhibitions of work by local artists.
Rum is a good buy everywhere on the island, both white and dark.
What is there for children to do?
Kids should enjoy the Jolly Roger Cruise and Jolly Harbour's attractions, as well as Nelson's Dockyard, Betty's Hope and glass-bottomed cruises (don't take trips if you are encouraged to walk on coral as it is illegal and kills the reef).
Some large all-inclusive hotels may have kids' facilities - check with your operator as other large hotels have an expressly "adult" ambience.
Tourist office
Antigua and Barbuda Tourist Office, 15 Thayer Street, London W1U 3JT. Tel: 020 7486 7073.
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| | Fact File : Antigua |
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| | | Antigua | | Did you know?
Buses in Antigua have unusual names painted on their sides such as Could Be Dangerous and Don't Tes' Me.
Language
English
Visas
No visa necessary, but take your passport.
Getting there
Scheduled flights from London. Charter flights from London and Manchester.
Flying time from London
Nine hours
Getting around
Buses are minivan-style and do not serve the whole island. To explore properly, take a taxi or hire a car, scooter or bike, but beware of poorly maintained roads. The local joke is that drivers need a PhD - Pot Hole Driving certificate. Driving is on the left, although many hire cars also have their steering wheel on the left.
Currency
East Caribbean dollar
Costs
As a rough guide: short taxi ride £7; pint of beer £1.50; moderately priced restaurant meal £25-£30; camera film about £4; a litre of petrol is about 40p.
Weather
The coolest months of January and February average 81F/27C in the day, 72F/22C at night. In July and August, the hottest months, the high averages 86F/30C, the low 77F/25C. Rainiest months are September to November with rain on about eight days a month. February to April is the driest period with three rainy days a month. Hurricane season is from June to November.
Time difference
Four hours behind GMT.
International dialling code from the UK
00 1 268
Voltage
110V AC, 60 cycles, but some places use 220 volts - check prior to plugging in anything you bring with you.
Opening hours
Typically 8am-noon then 1-4pm Monday-Friday, Government offices generally close an hour early on Friday. Shops may open later especially in tourist areas.
Health - Before you go
No immunisations are required to enter Antigua from the UK.
Health - When you are there
Antigua's main hospital is the Holberton in the outskirts of St. John's. Tel: 462 0251. Watch out for bugs that bite in the night - insect repellents and mosquito nets will help.
Warnings
Visitors shouldn't leave valuables unattended and should be cautious about walking in secluded places after dark. Women alone may be the target of unwanted attention and sexual advances. Drunk driving is common and dangerous - be very wary on the roads; also watch for livestock blocking roads.
Emergency
British High Commission, PO Box 483, Price Waterhouse Centre 11, Old Parham Road, St John's. Tel: 462 0008.
Customs
Outside the resorts, Antigua retains a conservative West Indian character. Restrict swimwear to the beach. The Caribbean atmosphere is laid back and it takes time to get things done. Be patient, it's hot. Don't take photographs of people without asking - it's rude, and imagine how you'd feel. Don't be surprised if people take offence if you do take a photo without permission - they will probably ask for money, and with the fees supermodels charge you can see their point.
Pets
Antigua and Barbuda are now included in the PETS travel scheme under long-haul regulations. However, this is a long and complicated procedure requiring vaccinations, medical check-ups and route planning; it is not as simple as walking on and off a plane with your pet. Therefore the scheme is more suited to those returning from a long stay abroad, rather than the two-week holidaymaker. It takes several months to set up the relevant documentation; see your vet for further details.
Tipping
10% in restaurants, unless the bill includes service charge.
Tourist office
Antigua and Barbuda Tourist Office, 15 Thayer Street, London W1U 3JT. Tel: 020 7486 7073.
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| | Available rental properties in Antigua |
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| |  | | House
Two bedroomed house close to St Johns, and Dickinson Bay. Sleeps 2-4 people and is air conditioned with cable tv, stove, fridge, internet
|  | | Jolly Harbour Luxury 2 bed Waterfront Villa
200M FROM BEACH+CARIBBEAN ON YOUR STEPS!8 RESTAURANTS/BARS,SHOPS,18 HOLE GOLF COURSE,TENNIS,SQUASH,SHUTTLE SERVICE & GATED 24HR SECURITY
|  | | Beachfront next to Sandals
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION...frontline beach apt on Dickenson Bay. Can sleep upto 4. Private balcony with sea views - onsite pool, watersports, restaurants, shop. 10 min a'port transfer 5 mins golf
|  | | Jolly Harbour Waterfront Villa
Beautiful 2 Bedroom Waterfront Villa Situated in Jolly Harbour Antigua fitted with a security alarm system.
|  | | The Carib House
Luxury villa 5 bedroom rental with pool. Includes daily maid service
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Holiday Rentals in Antigua |
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 |  | Family and kids (3) | | | Beautiful Scenery (2) | | | Exclusive (1) | | | Culture and history (1) | | | Beach (1) |
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