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| | | | Something for everyone
Sunny Beach is an up and coming resort, with lots of beach water sports, plenty of night time entertainment if you want it or some more quietly located hotels if you want to relax.
We stayed at the Victoria Palace Hotel to the north of Sunny Beach. It's just on the sea front and it was absolutely fantastic. I would certainly recommend it if you want a bit of luxury and just to relax.
Travel Guide: Bulgaria
Very disappointed
Had two weeks holiday in Sunny Beach in July 2003. Very disappointed.
Although prices are cheap and people are friendly, the resort is so commercialised. Big hotels have been built everywhere with more in the offing.
Give it two years and the place will be like Benidorm!
Hundreds of kids running about in electric scooters at night - loud music everywhere you go. Even on the beach the bars would play disco/rap music constantly at a piercing volume.
Some of the toilets were definitely a bit "iffy". Sorry wouldn't recommend it to anyone
Travel Guide: Bulgaria
Bulgaria: high times at low cost
Bulgaria might seem like an unusual option for a beach holiday but it's fast becoming a popular destination for British holidaymakers.
The resort of Golden Sands, on the Black Sea coast, shares the same latitude as Biarritz and experiences the same fantastic, mild weather as the French Riviera.
One thing Bulgaria has over French resorts is that it's much cheaper. Golden Sands is its big, lively party hotspot on a busy, two-mile white sand beach. It's packed with discos, cocktail bars, pubs, casinos, market stalls and amusements for kids.
As a result, the area is predominately occupied by young Brits, Germans and Russians and youthful families, but it still attracts plenty of people of all ages.
If you want to escape the crowds and discos, opt for one of the five hotels with a private beach in the Riviera Holiday Club at the southern end of the resort. The best of the lot is the five-star Imperial, a stylish '70s hotel that's more fashionable than most Hollywood stars' wardrobes. It is a gorgeous example of funky architecture and design.
The resort is in a National Park so you can get away from it all on peaceful walks through the lush woods. Other things to do in the area include romantic yacht trips or themed pirate boats for the kids. If lucky you'll spot a dolphin.
Within walking distance is the 12th-century Aladzha Rock Monastery located on a hill with beautiful views.
For the sporty there's tennis, mini golf, horse riding, jet skiing, paragliding, sailing, windsurfing, waterskiing and bowling. Golden sands has two diving schools so it's possible to gain a qualification far more cheaply than in the UK.
Travel Guide: Bulgaria
Opt for cheaper packages
I enjoyed a week in June in the Albena resort. Initially, I was a little disappointed as the first impression was that of a holiday camp.
However, I soon got over that. Everything you could possibly want was there. Because it is all set in forest and hills, the resort had a spacious feel although nothing was any further than a 15minute walk away.
It was just beautiful with all the greenery of the trees and the golden sandy beach. The locals were friendly and helpful, and the value for money was incredible.
I would love to go to other parts of the country before it all gets expensive. Unfortunately the cheapest way to get there seems to be in association with package deals to resorts.
Compared to other destinations, flight-only deals to Bulgaria are quite expensive, around £400- 500 per couple return.
Travel Guide: Bulgaria
Borovets ski trip was snow joke
There's no denying the panoramic view from the Martinovi Baraki slope in the heart of the Bulgarian winter playground of Borovets is to die for.
Above hangs a lawless cornflower blue sky. Beneath sits powdery white virgin snow. And an imposing army of towering, frost-fringed firs surrounds.
Completing this idyllic wintry scene is a group of ironically applauding snow-boarders, revelling in my spectacular red-run wipe-out.
Spread-eagled in the middle of the slope with one ski pointing north and the other buried in a fence 20 metres away, it's fair to say that I hadn't made the most elegant of descents.
In fact it's no exaggeration to admit my first attempt at on-piste independence was little more successful that Eddie The Eagle Edwards' failed bid for an Olympic ski-jumping gold medal.
Just six hours into my ski-school week - my first and only experience of winter sports - I should have listened when my instructor (a former stuntwoman no less) urged my group of novices to stick with her and not risk prematurely puncturing our fragile confidence.
Said confidence duly speared, I was relieved to discover later from the laconic hotel physician Dr Dryanovski that only my pride had been deflated, not my lungs. Still, the suspected (and later confirmed) fractured rib and "traumatised nerve endings" weren't the ideal ingredients for a week of skiing.
But no matter. Several anti-inflammatories and industrial strength painkillers later and I was back on the (nursery) slopes perfecting my snow plough and taking things much more sensibly.
And therein lies the problem of the ski-school experience. Everybody's got do to it but for holidaymakers of an impatient nature the drudgery of mastering the basics is just too tempting to ignore.
But maybe that's just me.
Sensible skiers will be in seventh heaven in Borovets with its (relatively) benign slopes, legion of well-trained, day-glo attired instructors, and easy accessibility from the ring of hotels circling the foot of the 9652ft peak.
The four-star Samakov Hotel where we stayed was a mere five-minute snow-booted shuffle from the base of the main Rila slope. The rooms are functional rather than flashy but the hotel is well-equipped with a swimming pool, gymnasium, several restaurants and bars and even a bowling alley.
Travel Guide: Bulgaria
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| | | | Fascinating excursions all around
Many hotels have spas with inexpensive treatments from the cosmetic, such as facials, to the remedial, such as massage for sports injuries. Water and curative mud from the local mineral springs is harnessed for its therapeutic properties. It's used to treat conditions such as arthritis, rheumatism, bronchitis, or for treatments that simply help stressed bods and minds unwind.
Visitors can take a day trip to the Danube river or even hop over to Romania or Turkey to check out Istanbul, while closer to home is the town of Varna, which is good for shopping and features the Roman Thermae, the fourth largest baths in Roman Europe.
The pretty town of Nessebar and the famous Unesco-protected Madara Horesman rock relief are also nearby.
The huge variety of restaurants include Chinese, Russian and Indian but if you want traditional Bulgarian food, try the Trifon Zarezan restaurant, which has an impressive folk and fire-walking show.
Prices for a seven-night, B&B Balkan Holidays break starts from £369 per person for the Imperial Hotel, Golden Sands, with flights and all transfers.
For more info, ring 0845 130 1114 or see balkanholidays.co.uk.
Get into the spirit of things
Bulgaria is not renowned for its world-beating cuisine and the Hotel Samakov's restaurants failed to buck that trend. Expect potato stews, meat casseroles, fried meat and extra potatoes.
For more varied food options, the resort's main drag offers choices with Chinese, Indian, Italian and Mexican tastes all catered for. For quality pizzas, head for Francos. For tasty burritos, try Mamasita's.
Bulgaria's liquid refreshments are more interesting. The local wines are more than palatable and the perfect reward for getting to the bottom of a slope without kissing the snow is a heart (and hand) warming hot chocolate with a tot of brandy.
More adventurous drinkers should sample the killer local spirit rakia - the national drink.
It's a bit like grappa with a taste somewhere between petrol, scrumpy and paint stripper but if you're looking for a shortcut to soothe the day's skiing aches and pain, look no further. After two or three of these your injuries (and much of the evening's conversation) will be forgotten.
But Borovets isn't just for skiers and drinkers. There are plenty of less arduous activities to try including sleigh rides, sledging and ice-skating. But if you want to live out your James Bond fantasy hire a skidoo for an hour.
Essentially a jet-ski on ice, you'll soon be tearing round the pineforests like an Eastern European baddie pursuing Pierce Brosnan. Fantastic fun and minimal effort.
Which is more than can be said for the week as a whole.
After six days of manoeuvring myself around Borovets' many slopes - and finally conquering the red run which so cruelly defeated me on day two - I felt like a needed a holiday.
If you're skiing for the first time, I'd advise a few pre-ski gym visits back in Britain. Or at least a short programme of press-ups to strengthen your biceps and triceps for the inevitable ski-pole propelled trekking you'll be doing as you learn.
Would I return? Probably. But next time I'd put in the preparation before I left and I'd curb my curiosity. Honest.
- Thomson Ski (0870 606 1470) offers a one week's package to Borovets from £405 per person, with ccommodation in the four-star Samokov Hotel. The price includes return flights and transfers. Learn to ski or snowboard packages, which include six day's lift pass, ski equipment and tuition, cost £96 per adult and £65 child.
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| | Destination Guide : Bulgaria |
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| | | Budget Byzantine break |  | Why go on holiday to Bulgaria?
Bulgaria is a great budget destination where mountains, monasteries, churches and Byzantine ruins can be enjoyed at little expense.
The people have embraced capitalism with good grace and are friendly too. A devalued currency means that even the top ski and beach resorts are extremely cheap.
How much does it cost?
A flight from London to Sofia can cost from as little as £150 but you could pay twice as much. At time of writing, a half board one-week package to a Black Sea resort costs from £350 in midsummer.
When should I go?
Many attractions close down in the icy winters, but summers are invariably hot and dry. Temperatures can reach 27C. Head for the Black Sea area where the dry heat isn't too oppressive.
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| | | Ski the mountains | | What should I do when I'm there?
As well as the usual sightseeing, there's plenty of skiing, mountain climbing and hiking.
Bulgaria's capital, Sofia, is a real mix of old-world charm and new-world angst. The city centre is attractive and airy, but the sinister spectre of concrete-block communism still lurks in the suburbs.
What are the capital's stand-out features?
The 14th-century St Petra Semerdjuska church has an unassuming front but the atmospheric nave boasts some glorious frescoes. The National Museum of History and chic Vitosha Boulevard are nearby.
The neo-Byzantine Alexander Nevski Church is steeped in history, and for a taste of the recent Soviet-dominated past there is the former Party House — a soulless monolith that survived the political uprising of 1990.
South of the city is Mount Vitosha: a skiing centre in winter, the chair-lifts are kept open in summer for sightseers. Avoid going on a Sunday — it will be packed with locals.
What's outside the capital?
Check out the ex-capital, Veliko Tarnovo, 250km from Sofia. It's steeped in history and has great bars. Its picturesque houses cling to the cliffs of the Yantra River gorge.
Stand by the Assumption Patriarchal Church and admire the Royal Palace, Tsaravets Citadel and Execution Rock, where traitors were thrown to their deaths. Tourists flock to Nesebar to see its 2nd-century remnants and cobbled streets.
What's the Bulgarian coast like?
The Black Sea coast teems with British and German package tourists in summer months, but with 378km of sandy coastline it is easy to escape the crowds.
Buses are a cheap way to hop between the sunny coastal towns, which offer great seafood. Sozopol is one of the more picturesque towns in the region, but if you want a bustling holiday resort head for Varna.
Where can I get next to nature?
The Rila Mountains are fantastic for hiking. If you're a hardcore walker, climb Musala Peak, the highest mountain in the Balkan Peninsula.
The nearby Rila Monastery, founded in AD 927 as a retreat for hermits, houses a clock tower dating from 1335, while the three-domed church is a marvel.
For Bulgarian peasant life try the Rodopi Mountains. There are spectacular gorges, rocky slopes, tiered fields and pine forests. Start at the Bachkovo Monastery then move on to the beautiful town of Shiroka Laka.
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| | | Folk dancing and dinner | | Where's good for nightlife?
It depends what you're after. As well as dinner, some restaurants serve up folk dancing and music. Opera buffs might want to visit the State Opera House in Sofia, which is also home to the National Folk Ensemble.
You'll also find nightclubs in Sofia, the major towns, and all the resorts.
What's the food like?
The Turkish influence lives on in much of Bulgaria's food. Try kebache, grilled meat rolls, or kavarma, a meat and vegetable casserole, or drob sarma, liver baked with rice and eggs.
Plakiya is a rich fish stew and you'll have to run a long way to avoid bop — bean soup. Vegetarians should be happy with the specialities like sirene po shopski, a baked dish of cheese, eggs and tomatoes.
What should I buy?
Local handicrafts, wines, spirits and confectionery. The main shopping area in Sofia is Vitosha Boulevard.
What is there for children to do?
Tourism in Bulgaria isn't especially geared towards kids; however the seaside resorts, such as Golden Sands and Sunny Beach, have facilities for children.
Tourist office
Bulgarian Embassy, 186-188 Queen's Gate, London SW7 5HL. Tel. 020 7584 9400.
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| | Fact File : Bulgaria |
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| | | Bulgaria | | Did you know?
A nod in Bulgaria means 'no', a shake of the head means 'yes'.
Language
Bulgarian with a smattering of Turkish and Romany.
Visas
Not required for EU passport holders.
Getting there
Balkan Bulgarian airlines operates flights to and from most European capitals. Check package tour prices, they may be cheaper than flight only. You can get there by bus or train from other European destinations.
Flying time from London
Three hours
Getting around
The country's capital Sofia has a new, expanding, and efficient subway system. The bus and train networks are extensive and cheap if illogically timetabled. Private buses are slightly more expensive but more comfortable. Watch out for the soft porn decor - it's a traditional touch.
Currency
Bulgarian Leva. The currency changed in 1999 (new leva worth 1,000 times the old leva, but both still in circulation, so beware of old notes)
Costs
Bottle of beer 50p, moderate restaurant meal £6, litre of petrol 30p, four-mile taxi ride £2. Prices will vary.
Weather
Icy winters, summers invariably hot and dry. Summer temperatures reach 27C (82F). Dry heat of Black Sea area is less oppressive. The daily average in Sofia is 15C (59F) May-September. Rainfall is highest in the mountains.
Time difference
Two hours ahead of GMT October-March, three hours ahead April-Sept.
International dialling code from the UK
359
Voltage
220V, 50Hz
Opening hours
Bank and office hours usually 9am-3pm, shops 10am-8pm.
Health - Before you go
Special precautions not required. Bulgaria is not part of the EU, so take out good travel insurance.
Health - When you are there
Stick to private clinics if you require medical assistance. You'll need to pay in cash for treatment, but prices are reasonable unless you require medicine imported from the West.
Warnings
English tends to be widely spoken only in bigger towns and resorts.
Emergency
Police 166, ambulance 150, road assistance 146. British Embassy, 38 Vassil Levski Blvd., 1000 Sofia. Tel: (359) (2) 980 1220 and (359) (2) 9817765 (out of hours).
Customs
Be prepared for uninterested staff in public sector jobs. Be wary of young pickpockets in Sofia.
Pets
Fine to bring them from the UK as long as you have the paperwork, but you will have to put your pet in quarantine when you return to the UK.
Tipping
Introduced only recently, 10% for meals and taxis.
Tourist office
Bulgarian Embassy, 186-188 Queen's Gate, London, SW7 5HL. Tel: 020 7584 9400.
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