Travel Guides: All Countries / Asia / Cambodia
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| | | | Enjoy Angkor Wat at sunset
If you are sick of holidays lazing on the beach and are looking for excitement, head to Siem Reap, Cambodia.
Cambodia is a country that has been devastated by war and it is heart-breaking to see the beautiful Cambodian children begging for food.
However, the Cambodian people are wonderful, they understand English humour and are very welcoming to British tourists. After all, tourism is helping them rebuild their lives and the young people are really enthusiastic about practising their English with you.
The main attraction is of course Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. It is considered one of the true wonders on the world. The hundreds of temples are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger religious civilisation.
The temples date back to the seventh century. They are too far apart to travel by foot so hire a motorbike for the day which should set you back $7.
The beauty of Angkor Wat is impossible to describe but my favourite memory is sitting at sunset on the highest peak in Angkor and seeing the sky change colour over an ancient civilization. The best day to watch the sunset is Sunday when it is traditional for local people to go up there for a picnic. It is truly awe-inspiring.
The accomodation is basic but clean and actually better than I have experienced in most of South-East Asia.
Uncover Cambodia's many faces
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| | Destination Guide : Cambodia |
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| | | Khmer chameleon: Cambodia's many faces |  | Why go on holiday to Cambodia?
Finally unshackled from the political and humanitarian chains imposed by Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge, Cambodia's cultural riches are at last being enjoyed by more than just the most adventurous traveller.
With its magnificent ancient temples, mighty rivers, remote forests and virtually empty beaches, its virtually uncharted pastures are crying out for exploration. And of course it's still among the cheapest countries in the world to visit.
How much does it cost?
Return airfares from London to capital Phnom Penh via Bangkok start from around £600. China Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, British Airways and Singapore Airways all operate regular flights on the route.
If you organise it yourself, you'll struggle to spend more than £100 a week for moderate accommodation. Plenty of packages are available too.
When should I go?
The ideal months are December and January, when humidity is bearable, temperatures are cooler and it's unlikely to rain. From February onwards it starts getting pretty hot, and April is oppressively warm.
The wet season (from May to October), though very soggy, can be a good time to visit Angkor Wat, as the moats are full and the foliage lush. Steer clear of the north-eastern regions during those months, as the waterlogged tracks are tough going. The country's biggest festival, Bon Om Tuk, is held in early November, and is well worth catching.
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| | | Angkor Wat: wonder of the world | | What should I do when I'm there?
Before heading for the main attraction — Angkor Wat — take in the contrasting attractions of Phnom Penh, the charming but slightly dilapidated colonial capital city.
After a lazy coffee at one of the bustling riverside cafes, visit one of the finest remnants of Khmer culture, the spellbinding Silver Pagoda. Also worth a visit are the Wat triumvirate of Ounalom, Phnom and Lang Ka.
On a more sombre, but equally memorable note, head 15km southwest of the centre where you will be awed and moved by the The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, a harrowing reminder of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge.
If you've the stomach for it, you'll see more than 8,000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, displayed behind the glass panel of the Memorial Stupa.
Where's worth visiting outside the capital?
One of the most remarkable sights in South East Asia, if not the world, is the staggering collection of more than 100 temples known as Angkor Wat.
Built between the 9th and 13th centuries to glorify a succession of Khmer kings, most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples have become gradually enveloped by forest ever since..
Give yourself at least three days to do it justice and try to squeeze in the other two impressive wats at Bayon and Ta Prohm close to Siem Reap.
What if I get temple fatigue?
Head to the sleepy beach resort of Sihanoukville on the south coast where you can chill out in the sun, go diving or take an excursion the nearby Ream National Park.
Four beaches ring the headland — Ochheuteal, Sokha, Independence and Victory — and sunrise and sunset at the fishing port are well worth photographing. Not far away is the languid colonial riverside resort of Kampot and the strangely skeletal remains of Kep.
Anywhere else unusual worth exploring?
For a wild night on the water visit the floating town of Kompong Luong on Tonle Sap lake.
Packed with karaoke bars and restaurants with a mainly Vietnamese population, it's the ideal place to relax with a beer or an iced coffee.
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| | | Food: good value and tasty | | Will I like the food?
If you like Thai or Vietnamese food you'll like Cambodian cuisine.
Inexpensive — and only mildly spicy — curries, stir fried vegetable, rice, noodles and soups are Khmer staples found all over the country. Street markets are a good place to pick up even cheaper dishes.
Is the nightlife any good?
If you search hard enough you might find a performance of a traditional Khmer dance but if you want to hit the dance floor yourself, do it in one of the discos in Phnom Penh.
A word of warning though; many discos are actually "hostess bars" not nightclubs.
What can I buy?
After decades of neglect, the lost arts of silk weaving, woodcarving and metal work are being revived.
You'll find silver items, jewellery, gems, colourful cloth for sarongs and hats, papier maché masks, stone copies of ancient Khmer art, brass and bronze figurines and oil paintings in the different markets and shops on the main avenues.
Should I take the kids?
Probably not. The country's a relatively new tourist destination and it's not really geared up for travelling families.
Tourist office
There is currently no Cambodian tourist office in Britain but enquiries can be sent to info@tourismcambodia.com.
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| | Fact File : Cambodia |
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| | | Cambodia | | Did you know?
There are 33 consonants and 24 vowels in the Cambodian language.
Language
Cambodian or Khmer.
Visa
All nationals other than Malaysians require visas to visit Cambodia. They are issued on arrival at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap International airports, and at the overland crossing checkpoints at Bavet, Kham Sam Nor, Koh Rorca, Cham Riem, Poipet and O'Smach. Single-entry tourist visas are valid for 30 days from the date of issue and cost £11 when accompanied by a passport photo. Extensions can be granted from the Department for Foreigners in Phnom Penh.
Getting there
The number of flights into Cambodia is steadily increasing with most airlines flying in to Siem Reap or Phnom Penh via Bangkok. Tourists have to pay a departure tax of £10 from Phnom Penh and £5 from Siem Reap.
Flying time from London
Flights take 12 hours to Bangkok plus one hour for the onward journey to Cambodia.
Getting around
Internal flights are an efficient if expensive way to travel between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Fast boats are an alternative on this route with services also operating from Phnom Penh to Kompong Cham and Kratie. There is an extensive road system but the pot-holed surfaces can be back breaking. Banditry is still an occasional problem. The train system recently reopened to tourists but is painfully slow. In Phnom Penh use the comprehensive bus network or hire an inexpensive taxi or motorbike.
Currency
US dollars are as commonly used as the Cambodian riel and even Thai baht is acceptable in many places. Most hotels and many restaurants and shops set their prices in dollars. Small transactions are usually done in riel. Always carry some small riel for motorcycle taxis, snacks, beggars and small purchases. Riel notes come in 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 50,000 and 100,000 denominations, but the distinctive red 500 riel note is the most commonly used.
Costs
Compared to the rest of South-East Asia, Cambodia is still dirt cheap. Accommodation can be as little as £1.50 per night; a can of local Angkor beer, £1; a moderate meal from £2 per person; roll of Fuji film, £1. A five-mile taxi ride costs about £4.
Weather
Cambodia has two monsoon seasons; the cool dry north-eastern monsoon which carries little rain blows from November to February. From May to September the south-western monsoon brings strong winds, high humidity and heavy rains. Temperatures range from as high as 40C (104F) in the hottest month, April, to the high 20sC in January, the coolest. The south-west highlands receive three times as much rain as the central lowlands.
Time difference
Cambodia is seven hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from UK
00 855.
Voltage
220V, 50Hz.
Opening hours
Official hours are from 7.30am to 11am with a siesta until 2pm and the day ending at 5pm. In reality the opening hours tend to run from 10am to 4pm. Core banking hours are from 8.30am to 3.30pm.
Health — before you go
Although no vaccinations are officially required for entry to Cambodia, they are highly encouraged. Visitors are advised to check with their doctor or a travel immunisation clinic regarding protection against malaria, typhoid, tetanus, hepatitis A and B. Any essential medications should be brought with you as there is no guarantee they will be available in Cambodia.
Health — when you are there
Rule number one is NEVER drink tap water. Health care away from the main cities is primitive at best so travel well prepared as you're unlikely to be understood in the provinces. Phnom Penh is the only city with emergency medical facilities.
Warnings
Since the removal of the Khmer Rouge in 1998, western tourists are no longer terrorist targets although some disgruntled rogue militia persist. A few hotspots worth researching before you leave are the road between Kratie and Stung Treng and the area north of Kompong Thom and Siem Reap towards the Thai border. You should also be aware of unexploded landmines, particularly in the Battambang and Palin areas. Never stray from designated paths when exploring Angkor and always employ a local guide. In Phnom Penh don't travel late at night as motorcycle hold-ups and theft are still commonplace. If you give money to beggars — many of them landmine victims — don't draw attention to yourself by displaying large amounts of cash.
Emergencies
In case of emergencies contact the British Embassy at No 29, St 75, Tel: 012 802 992/012 802 993, Fax: 427 125. In the event of a medical emergency you'll probably have to be flown to Bangkok. The SOS International Medical Centre (015 912765) runs a 24-hour evacuation service. For ambulances in Phnom Penh call 119, for police call 117, for fire call 118.
Customs
When visiting a temple do not wear shorts, short-sleeved tops, shoes or hats. Haggling in markets is acceptable.
Pets
Animals will be subject to quarantine on return to the UK.
Tipping
This is not expected but is accepted.
Tourist office
There is no Cambodian tourist office in Britain.
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