Travel Guides: All Countries / South America / Chile
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| | | | The icy beauty of Chile
From the Daily Mail
Three weeks after my return from Patagonia, my toes are still the colour of squashed blackberries and, some time before Christmas, all my toenails will drop off.
My calf muscles ache with the memory of the roller-coaster hikes through the wilderness and my lungs are unlikely ever to forgive me for the stress imposed on them up seemingly endless slopes.
The southernmost reaches of Chile, the place where the South American continent fragments into finger-like islets, lakes and fjords, are not for the fainthearted - or for those, like me, with ill-fitting walking boots.
But for people who want to experience this 'miniature Alaska' - the glaciers, the icebergs, the milky opalescent lakes, plummeting waterfalls and exotic wildlife from Andean condors to pumas - the aches and pains are worth every moment.
Our first glimpse of the magnificent Glaciar de Grey, which is part of the southern ice cap, came two hours into a day-long trek through the Torres del Paine National Park in the heart of Chilean Patagonia. It was a moment to savour in any lifetime.
From a distance and in brilliant sunshine, the glacier resembled a gigantic meringue whipped into shimmering white peaks and blue-green troughs. It would take another two hours to reach the closest viewpoint.
Our journey continued along a cliff top overlooking Lago del Grey (Grey Lake), into which the glacier drains and sheds its icebergs: a stately trail of pristine white, green and turquoise monsters, sculpted by the wind, as they make their ponderous journey down the lake.
We neared the glacier, the icy breeze off its surface intensified and suddenly, there it was: the leading edge of the glacier (or rather retreating edge since it diminishes by four to six metres a year).
Close up, it resembled a gaping lower jaw of enormous, crooked, tombstone teeth, a sight so awe-inspiring that you temporarily forget that the glacier is only the half-way point in your 13-mile trek.
The Glaciar de Grey is just one of the treasures of the Torres del Paine park. The name, meaning 'towers of blueish', was given in its original translation to the area by a long-extinct Indian tribe, the Tehuelches, who moved there 11,000 years ago from the Patagonian pampas.
Travel guide: Chile
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| | | | Granite core of jagged peaks
They were looking for ostriches and guanocos, a type of llama which still grazes the park's open steppes. And as they approached the mountain range, the three dominant towers of the Paine Massif appeared to the Tehuelches to soar upwards in a seamless continuation of the twilight sky - hence the word 'blueish'.
The Paine Massif is part of the Andes but isolated from it, a 12 million-year-old independent geological formation created by the upward thrusting of the sedimentary layers of the Earth's crust.
Eroded by ice, wind and rain, what remains is a fantastic granite core of jagged peaks, towers and pinnacles with names such as the Shark's Fin, and the Horns or Cuervos del Paine.
The latter is perhaps the most famous of the park's panoramas, but it is the Torres, the three polished granite towers, that lure adventurous travellers. The seven-mile trek to their base is described as one of the most challenging in the park or, in the careful language of the hotel literature: 'This exploration demands an important degree of physical effort.'
Well, yes it did. An hour-long climb up a muddy slope had everyone gasping for breath, shedding clothes despite the chilly spring morning and gulping from their water bottles.
But the ramble through a soggy beech forest above a rock-strewn river lulled us into a false sense of security - we had yet to negotiate the moraine.
This is the mass of rocks and sediment deposited long, long ago by a retreating glacier and its navigation was made more precarious by a thin layer of snow which made it difficult to judge the footholds.
Suddenly, following in the footsteps of our guide, Max, became a necessity as he expertly snaked his way up, from boulder to boulder, across the tiny rivulets and streams.
Safely at the top, it was an exhilarating experience to sit in the sun and contemplate the Towers from the enormous boulder where we ate lunch, protected from the rocks ricocheting off the surrounding slopes and the occasional avalanches which could be heard gathering speed on the far side of the Towers.
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| | | | 365 days of exploration
The physical rigours of the day made us appreciate comfort - and the Hotel Explora en Patagonia did not disappoint. It is one of a handful of residences in the Torres del Paine National Park - which lies about 240 miles from the regional capital, Punta Arenas (a four-hour flight south from Santiago) - but the most luxurious by far.
Situated on the shore of the Lago Pehoe, beside a waterfall, it looks more like a boathouse than one of South America's very best hotels.
Yet it offers a clever blend of luxury and informal comfort, from the exquisite food and wine to the open fires and deep sofas in the lobby with its lake and mountain views.
Even our bathrooms had a little window positioned so you could lie back in your bath and savour the sight of the snowy Cuervos del Paine by moonlight.
Most importantly, the hotel offers a team of 10 guides (all of whom speak excellent English) and a choice of eight 'explorations' daily.
These range from gentle hikes of a couple of hours' duration to wildlife safaris by four-wheel drive, pony trekking and longer or more demanding walks and climbs.
Claims of '365 days of exploration' stem from the park's temperate climate (it is close to the sea), and the Southern spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May) are the best times to avoid crowds of holiday-making Chileans.
Locals say that 'four seasons in one day' is the most accurate description of the climate and during our four days there we had rain, sleet, snow and brilliant sunshine.
What is true is that the weather is not extreme and with the right gear there is nothing to stop you from experiencing the glories of the Torres del Paine.
And if your boots actually fit, you might even get to keep your toenails, too.
TRAVEL FACTS:
Details from Roxton Bailey Robinson Worldwide on 01488 689 700 or visit the website at http://www.rbrww.com
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| | Destination Guide : Chile |
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| | | Country of contrasts |  | Why go on holiday to Chile?
Chile is probably the most European and certainly one of the safest South American countries. The cities are elegant and speak of a rich colonial past, while the people - despite recent years of repression - are open and friendly.
Its unique geography (2,666 miles long but only around 120 miles wide) gives it dramatically contrasting scenery.
Travel from the spectacular Pacific coastline to the awe-inspiring Andean highlands, from luscious tropical beaches to arid high-altitude deserts, from alpine lowlands to glacial lakes.
How much does it cost?
At time of writing, fares from London to Santiago start at around £540. Tours from Santiago to Easter Island cost from £200 for flights and two nights' accommodation (two sharing). Guided package tours based in four centres start at around £2,400 for 16 days.
When should I go?
In such a large country, climate varies.
Central Chile (including Santiago) has a Mediterranean climate - 28C (82F) in January and 10C (50F) in July, a rainy season from May-August (remember it's the southern hemisphere so seasons are swapped around).
Skiing resorts are most popular through June and August (winter). The Isla Grande and surrounding islands have only 60 days sunshine per year and 150 storm days but can be magnificent in Chile's summer.
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| | | Outdoor adventure abounds |  | What should I do when I'm there?
With all its national parks, beaches, waterways and mountains, Chile is a dream for outdoor types. Pucon in the lake district offers climbing, river rafting, mountain biking and horseback riding.
The resorts of Valle Nevado and Portillo near Santiago have excellent skiing. For white-water rafting head for the Maipo, Claro and Biobio rivers.
Glide down the southern fjords on a catamaran and then visit the Puerto Puyuhuapi thermal spa to recover from all that activity. Visit traditional indigenous villages and see pre-Columbian artefacts in Chile's museums.
What about the cities?
The sprawling city of Santiago's central district stays true to the original Spanish old town. This makes it perfect for visitors looking for the city's highlights.
They include the Pre-Columbian Museum and the Museo de Santiago, The Palacio de Bellas Artes has a fine collection of European and Chilean art. See also the Plaza de Armas and the Palacio de La Moneda.
The Bellavista (or Paris quarter) is a buzzing area of ethnic restaurants and a craft fair. Most major towns have colonial churches and town squares in the Spanish style.
What about beach resorts?
The port of Valparaiso is a charming, cobbled maze overlooked by imposing hills and cliffs and served by funicular railways and stairway footpaths.
Vina del Mar is Chile's top beach resort, known as the Garden City because of its many palm and banana trees. The mansion-lined white sand beaches are great for R'n'R, and there are good museums and gardens too.
La Serena rivals Vina del Mar as Chile's top beach resort and has quaint villages and vineyards nearby. Surfers can enjoy warm surfing at Arica or wet-suit fun at Iquique, Antofagasta, in the Norte Grande region.
And the natural splendour?
Parque Nacional Puyehue is Chile's most popular national park, boasting nature trails, lake views, ski resorts, thermal springs, waterfalls and a brilliant array of flora and fauna.
The Norte Grande's stark deserts offer unique fauna and Tatio geysers. On Chile's southern tip find the icy Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. The actual Torres del Paine are 6560ft granite pillars rising above the steppe.
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| | | Superb wines | | Where's good for nightlife?
Street performers are a staple of Chilean life, in both major cities and smaller towns so just taking an evening walk can be an entertainment in itself.
Santiago and the resorts of Vina del Mar, Renaca, Concon and La Serena all have discos but these are mostly expensive, sterile and full of techno-pop.
In the ports of Valparaiso and Iquique you will find nightclubs, which can be truly disreputable, called boites.
Theatre across Chile is both well-attended and high quality - learn Spanish. Penas are nightclubs where political material/folk themes are played - especially common in the Chiloe archipelago.
What's the food like?
Chilean food is as varied as the landscape. With so much coast, the seafood is unbeatable. Beef and fresh fruit are also staples. Lomo a lo pobre is an enormous slab of beef with two fried eggs and a mountain of chips.
Empanadas are big turnover snacks with a variety of fillings. The parillada is a mixed grill of intestines, udders and blood sausages, and curanto is a mighty stew of fish, shellfish, pork, lamb, beef and potato.
On the drinks front, a pisco sour is a grape brandy that will ease your mood in moments. Chile's wine production has improved to unheard-of heights in the past 20 years, rivalling France, so there are many good, cheap vintages to wash down your dinner.
What should I buy?
In artisans' ferias throughout Chile there will be a good selection of quality handicrafts. Try Santiago's Barrio Bellavista, Vina del Mar's Las Condes, and Dalcahue village near Castro on Chiloe island.
Copper, leather and Andean woollens are all worth buying. In Araucania, Mapuche craftspeople make quality ceramics, basketry, silverwork, carvings and weavings - these are available in visitor destinations Temuco, Billarrica and Pucon.
What is there for children to do?
Chile is very child-friendly in terms of safety, health, attitudes and family-orientated activities. But remember that, unless travelling by plane, distances are long so if your children are not good travellers it may not be the best place to go.
Santiago and other cities all have large, safe public parks with playgrounds so kids can make international friendships easily. There are also many activities put on just for children - see listings in El Mercurio or La Epoca.
Tourist office
The Chilean embassy has a tourist information section: 12 Devonshire Street, London W1G 7DS. Tel. 020 7580 1023.
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| | Fact File : Chile |
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| | | Chile | | Did you know?
The Estadio Nacional de Chile in Santiago was one of the four venues of the 1962 World Cup. 11 years later it was used as a concentration camp during the Chilean coup of 1973.
Language
Spanish
Visas
No visa required for UK visitors for stays of up to 30 days.
Getting there
A return flight to Chile in May from London Heathrow can cost in the region of around £650 with Iberia airlines. There is a departure tax of US$18 on leaving Chile and of US$7 for internal flights.
Flying time from London
17 hours
Getting around
Buses are fast, punctual, inexpensive and cover most main routes. Santiago has a metro system; cities and towns have good local bus networks.
Currency
Peso (Ch$)
Costs
One litre of petrol 40p, moderate meal £3, one roll of camera film £3, four-mile taxi ride £2, a beer - 50p. All costs will vary.
Weather
Santiago has a Mediterranean climate - 28C(82F) in January and 10C(50F) in July, a rainy season from May-August (remember it's the southern hemisphere so seasons are swapped around). Skiing resorts are most popular through June and August (winter in the southern hemisphere).
Time difference
Four hours behind GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 56
Voltage
220 Volts 50 cycles.
Opening hours
Businesses open at 9am, closing at 1pm for three or four-hour siesta and then reopen till 8 or 9pm. In Santiago many offices have adopted a more US-conventional 9am-6pm, but banks and government offices are often only open to the public in the mornings.
Health - Before you go
Chile presents few serious hazards and you do not need any vaccinations to enter the country but it may be advisable to get yellow fever, typhoid and hepatitis. Ask your tour operator or GP for advice or ring the FCO advice line on 020 7238 4503/4504.
Health - When you are there
If you're hiking/trekking or going on adventure trips it's wise to take a medical travel kit.
Warnings
Volcanic activity and earthquakes do happen so make sure you know what to do.
Emergency
Police Tel 133. British Embassy in Santiago: Avenida El Bosque Norte 0125, 3rd floor, Las Condes. Tel 02 231 3737
Customs
Chileans are by and large a very friendly bunch, hospitable and lovely to children. Be circumspect around the indigenous people as rowdiness and rampant photography may be seen as rude. Be sensible and considerate and you should have no trouble - try asking!
Pets
Chile is not part of the Passports for Pets scheme, so any pets coming back will be put into quarantine in the UK.
Tipping
10% is expected.
Tourist office
The Chilean embassy has a tourist information section. 12 Devonshire Street, London W1G 7DS. Tel 020 7580 1023
Did you know?
If Chile's length was laid on top of Europe the country would stretch from Norway to Tunisia.
Language
Spanish
Visas
No visa required for UK visitors for stays of up to 30 days.
Getting there
Direct flights to Santiago are available from London and Manchester - expect to pay around £550 return. There is a departure tax of US$18 on leaving Chile and of US$7 for internal flights.
Flying time from London
17 hours
Getting around
Apart from the sadly neglected railways, Chilean transport is excellent. Buses are fast, punctual, inexpensive and cover most main routes. Domestic flights are big business due to the country's vast length and prices are kept low by competition. Air passes from LanChile and Ladeco, the Chilean airlines, can be a bargain if you research the different types available and plan your itinerary well. Santiago has a metro system; cities and towns have good local bus networks.
Currency
Peso (Ch$)
Costs
One litre of petrol 40p, moderate meal £3, one roll of camera film £3, four-mile taxi ride £2, a beer - 50p. All costs will vary.
Weather
Chilean territory runs 2,666 miles from north to south, and has all kids of altitude and terrain. As a result, average temperatures and rainfall vary greatly. Generally, central Chile (including Santiago) has a Mediterranean climate - 28C(82F) in January and 10C(50F) in July, a rainy season from May-August (remember it's the southern hemisphere so seasons are swapped around). Skiing resorts are most popular through June and August (winter in the southern hemisphere). The Isla Grande and surrounding islands have only 60 days of sunshine a year and 150 storm days but can be magnificent in Chile's summer (UK's winter).
Time difference
Four hours behind GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 56
Voltage
220 Volts 50 cycles.
Opening hours
Businesses open at 9am, closing at 1pm for three or four-hour siesta and then reopen till 8 or 9pm. In Santiago many offices have adopted a more US-conventional 9am-6pm, but banks and government offices are often only open to the public in the mornings.
Health - Before you go
Chile presents few serious hazards and you do not need any vaccinations to enter the country but it may be advisable to get yellow fever, typhoid and hepatitis A depending upon which regions you visit, and check your tetanus and polio immunity. Ask your tour operator or GP for advice or ring the FCO advice line on 020 7238 4503/4504. If you're hiking/trekking or going on adventure trips it's wise to take a medical travel kit.
Health - When you are there
Businesses open at 9am, closing at 1pm for three or four-hour siesta and then reopen till 8 or 9pm. In Santiago many offices have adopted a more US-conventional 9am-6pm, but banks and government offices are often only open to the public in the mornings.
Warnings
Many Chilean beaches have very dangerous rip tides - make sure you ask about the currents if you want to swim. Accidents are so numerous in the National Parks that solo trekking is no longer allowed. Volcanic activity and earthquakes do happen so make sure you know what to do. Do not photograph military installations.
Emergency
Police Tel 133. British Embassy in Santiago: Avenida El Bosque Norte 0125, 3rd floor, Las Condes. Tel 02 231 3737
Customs
Chileans are by and large a very friendly bunch, hospitable and lovely to children. Be circumspect around the indigenous people as rowdiness and rampant photography may be seen as rude. Be sensible and considerate and you should have no trouble - try asking!
Pets
Chile is not part of the Passports for Pets scheme, so any pets coming back will be put into quarantine in the UK.
Tipping
10% is expected.
Tourist office
The Chilean embassy has a tourist information section. 12 Devonshire Street, London W1G 7DS. Tel 020 7580 1023
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| | Available rental properties in Chile |
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