Travel Guides: All Countries / Central America / Costa Rica
 |  | Travel Reviews : Costa Rica |
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| | | | Best preserved rainforest in Central America
Wedged between Nicaragua and Panama and lapped by the Caribbean on one side and the Pacific on the other, Costa Rica seems an impossibly exotic destination.
Yet it is the most stable republic in Central America, and boasts both golden beaches and spectacular rainforests.
And with return air fares from London as low as £500 even at the height of the season, Costa Rica is an intriguing new experience waiting to be explored.
Most flights land at San Jose Airport, but you are unlikely to want to hang around the capital for any longer than is strictly necessary.
San Jose's centre is rundown and fairly shoddy, and its bargain stores have all the ambience of downtown Peckham.
Yet before you leave it's worth paying a quick visit to the Teatro National, a gorgeously ornate concert hall that is San Jose's most impressive landmark.
Once you have coughed up for the flight the rest of your stay in Central America will be absurdly cheap.
Costa Rica is not quite as poor as its immediate neighbours but its currency, the colone, is so devalued that most hotels and stores prefer payment in American dollars.
Even the Hotel Grano De Oro, a gorgeous converted colonial house on San Jose's outskirts, will give you a double room for £50. More from hotelgranodeoro.com.
Beach bums will head straight for Playa Tamarindo - you can fly from San Jose to Liberia for a mere £30, then hire a car. The area has a decided tourist trap element, but the Pacific waves are perfect for a surfing lesson, and the beaches are glorious.
Keeping it clean
The bird man of Costa Rica
Marcellino is a bird man. A real Bird Man. You only have to walk a few yards into the Costa Rican forest fringe with him to understand it.
A flicker of dark tail dashes into a bush and Marcellino announces: 'There. Did you see? A slaty flower piercer.' He cocks his head on one side. 'Hear that? It's a long-tailed silky flycatcher.'
And, sure enough, two fly out of a tree ahead of us. Then suddenly, like Richard Wilson on speed, our dapper little bird guide clutches his head and declares emotionally: 'Oh my God, I don't believe it. Look, look an ochraceous wren.'
The man's knowledge is all-encompassing, his enthusiasm utterly captivating.
He makes a little 'tsk, tsk' noise between his teeth and birds call back to him and pop out from the bushes to be admired - a yellow-thighed finch, a collared redstart, a spectacle-cheeked tanager.
Later Marcellino, eyes gleaming, focused his telescope and beckoned us.
There, perched on a favourite mini-avocado tree, was the creature everybody comes to Costa Rica to see, the resplendent quetzal, a bird so self-confidently handsome, so spectacular in its iridescent green, blue and red colouring, so luxuriantly fitted out with its long, plumed tail that it quite takes your breath away.
Magical, and for an amateur birder like me in a small Central American country with 850 resident species there were endless magical moments.
From a near-silent boat slipping along the canal and river networks of Tortugero National Park on the Caribbean coast it was a case of never mind the rain.
The huge, lush trees and creepers in every shade of green made it feel like gliding through Jurassic Park.
I watched enthralled as a tiger heron in mating ritual first extended his neck skyward, ramrod straight, giving a passable imitation of a yard-of-ale glass, and then coiled it back into his chest and puffed it out to impress his lady.
Next morning I stepped out of my room to see perched on the palm branch above me a huge spectacled owl, about the size of a labrador, gazing implacably at us like a hanging judge.
Soon after dawn one morning at the peak of the cloud forest above San Gerardo de Dota I was about to swat away what I had first taken to be a bee behind my ear when I realised that the sound was in fact the fast-beating, electric-fan wings of a tiny volcano hummingbird, about the size of my thumb.
Keeping it clean
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| | | | White-water rafting for all
Costa Rica's main selling point is its verdant tropical rainforest. It is the best preserved in Central America, and sloths and toucans are easily spotted.
Rios Tropicales run two-day, white-water rafting trips down the Pacuare river, including an overnight stay in a log cabin in the heart of the jungle.
There are few more exhilarating thrills than running the rapids - and it's safe for all ages. See riostropicales.com.
Costa Rica is a nature-lovers' nirvana, with copious national parks and active volcanos adding to the appeal of the uniquely well-preserved rainforests.
Zoo-Ave near Alajuela, 20km west of San Jose, houses a collection of indigenous tropical birds, including more than 60 that are unique to the country.
The nearby village of Atenas is so high - 3,500 feet - that visitors can stay in hotels fully enveloped in clouds.
Food is absurdly cheap. A family of four can eat a hearty local meal for less than £10 - but be careful of unpeeled fruit and salads.
Cheap luncheon counters known as sodas line every street and thoroughfare, and vary from spotless to unspeakable. Most dishes are beef or chicken-based.
However, the delicious local speciality of black beans and rice, called gallo, is a great alternative for vegetarians.
Despite its relative poverty by Western standards, Costa Rica's population, who refer to themselves as ticos, are very friendly and invariably welcoming.
Whether you are seeking the thrills of white-water rafting, exploring tropical rainforests or looking to chill on the beach, it's a holiday you won't forget.
Costa Rica's dry season is December to April. Martinair run daily flights from London all year round.
- Have you been to Costa Rica? Or got another thrilling holiday tale? Tell us about it by e-mailing: traveldesk@teletext.co.uk. Include your full name and address. You could win a £20 book voucher.
American fork-tailed kites
Making a breakfast stop at the mountainside café; Mirador Los Chorros, en route from San Isidro to Dominical, I watched a summer tanager, powder-puff pink all over, dart in and out of the bushes with a bright yellow little bananaquit.
Then, suddenly, just 30ft below us a majestic pair of American fork-tailed kites sailed effortlessly past on patrol.
Normally with birds of prey I squint at a blob of black against the sky and ask 'What the hell was that?' as I thumb the bird book. When these two wheeled below us I could have counted every feather.
Down on the Pacific coast I stood below a sea almond tree with my guide Luc, a Costa Rica-domiciled Belgian, and marvelled as half a dozen red, blue and yellow scarlet macaws squawked and chattered and used their massive beaks to penetrate to the almond kernels.
Of course there is plenty to do besides the bird-watching in Costa Rica, a country built on a coffee and banana economy where the friendly and educated Ticos, as they call themselves, manage - unlike the rest of Central and South America -without an army.
You can luxuriate at resort hotels, enjoy excellent white-water rafting or gaze at a profusion of waterfalls and spectacular volcanoes, even taking an open air massage on the slopes.
The food is good, if a little lacking in variety. You will be offered beans, rice and plantains for breakfast, rice and beans for lunch and beans and rice with your steak, fish or omelette for dinner.
But, like a growing number of visitors, I was in Costa Rica not for haute cuisine but for its profusion of beautiful birds.
I had feared that on the specialist holiday I had booked I might find myself surrounded by obsessives. In fact that was never the case. Bird watchers do it quietly, in groups.
I shared my quetzal experience with Betty, a retired dog-breeder from North Carolina, and her friend Prue, who had fetched up at the same cloud forest lodge.
Most, like me, liked birds but didn't know that much about them and none of the fellow birders I met was pushy, intrusive or competitive. All were ready to share what they had spotted.
Indeed, I became mildly obsessive myself. As we trudged through one forest trail thigh-deep in water-filled Wellingtons, poor Luc had to cheer himself up by exclaiming at intervals: 'At least I'm being paid for this.'
But for the next five days the sun was out, the scenery was spectacular and, if you don't mind dirt roads and skirting round the odd landslide, the travelling was fun.
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| | | | Turquoise-green honeycreeper
Luc wasn't a bird specialist but by the end of our trip he had been bitten by the birding bug, wading through a bog determined to find me a roseate spoonbill.
He did too. The glorious lanky pink bird rose flapping from a hidden pool and did a lap of honour before beating off to join some friends mud-stirring for dinner somewhere else.
At first Luc was bored by small birds. But he changed his mind in Carara National Park. Local bird specialist Stefan pointed silently to a rainforest rock pool and we watched a red-capped manikin, a little black bird with a scarlet head, and a zebra-striped black and white warbler take a morning bath.
A spectacular turquoise-green honeycreeper flew by while a blue throated goldentail sang his heart out against the din of the cicadas, a shaft of sunlight that had penetrated a gap in the high forest canopy glinting off his bright red beak. Now Luc wants to be a bird guide too.
If you have ever enjoyed wildlife you will enjoy Costa Rica's birds. Those I met who had come to see monkeys, tapirs and armadillos certainly did.
But go with the best set of binoculars you can afford and be prepared to rise early. Birds do, and the best viewing is between 6-8am and then again in the hour or two before dark.
Do not economise when it comes to local bird guides. Without them, you would be lucky to identify half of what you see.
Finally, don't go off piste in the forests or marshes. Costa Rica does have some pretty deadly snakes, such as the feared fer-de-lance, although, to be fair, I did not see a single one.
What I did see was 173 different species of bird, whose grace and glorious colours will linger in the memory, especially a flock of white ibis beating round a river bend just feet in front of me.
But it was a sound which will drive me back to Costa Rica with a new quest. Constantly in the cloud forest I was tormented by the bell bird, whose call in fact is less like a bell than the squeaking hinges of an iron gate which somebody has forgotten to oil. It is unmistakable.
I heard it far away and close to, advancing and retreating, but I never got to clap eyes on a bell bird.
Now I have to go back to see as well as hear what I am determined will be No 174.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Sunvil (020 8758 4774, www.sunvil.co.uk) offers bird watching holidays to Costa Rica. Tailor-made itineraries can also be arranged. Robin travelled with Wildlife Worldwide (020 8667 9158). Other tour operators include Last Frontiers (01296 653000) and Naturetrek (01962 733051).
For further information contact the Latin American Travel Association (020 8715 2913, www.lata.org)
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| | Destination Guide : Costa Rica |
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| | | Eco-tourism friendly |  | Why go on holiday to Costa Rica?
Eco-tourism has been the priority for successive Costa Rican governments, giving the country the most comprehensive conservation laws in the region. The variety and abundance of the protected wildlife attracts tourists from all over the world.
With Caribbean and Pacific coasts there are also plenty of beaches to choose from. Cloud forests, mountain and coastal rain forest, dry forest and mangrove swamps contrast with flat tropical lowlands. You are spoilt for choice.
How much does it cost?
A seven-night tour of San Jose, Los Angeles Cloud Forest, Arenal and Tamarindo in November costs from £1,250. Flights only from around £410 return, average around £550. Prices fluctuate depending on the time of year.
When should I go?
Costa Rica has two seasons: wet and dry. The dry is from late December to April, the rest of the year tends to be wet. However the Caribbean coast tends to be wet all year round - there's just less rainfall it in the "dry" season.
Temperatures don't vary much and depend on altitude - San Jose at 1,150m is in "eternal spring", whilst coasts are hotter. The Caribbean averages 20C (67F) at night and 30C (85F) in the day, the Pacific coast is just a couple of degrees warmer.
Prices in the dry season go up and hotels are full but you won't be soaked every day.
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| | | See a sea turtle |  | What should I do when I'm there?
Nature lovers flock to Costa Rica to see sea turtles, caimans, sloths, monkeys, rare birds, tapirs, armadilloes and jaguars. You can opt for the luxury beach hotels or campsites in the midst of the flora and fauna.
Apart from sunning'n'swimming you can hike both in rainforests and over (active) volcanoes, snorkel, surf, whitewater raft, sea kayak or just fish.
Will I really get to see the animals?
Yes, but don't try to talk to them! Costa Rica has the most well-developed conservation in the region and that means tourists have to behave well towards the animals as well as the locals.
Most people going to see a specific species will get to fulfil their dream but for some animals there are only certain times of the year when you can really get close.
For example sea turtles only come onto land when laying their eggs - so check their laying season.
For the sake of your fellow eco-tourists and the animals make sure you follow guides on behaviour around these wild, endangered species. Remember it's a privilege to see them even if you have paid!
What should I see?
In San Jose check out the Museo de Oro Precolombio - full of wonderful gold objects, and Museo de Jade - the world's largest collection of jade carvings.
Also visit the Museo de Insectos - for those who want to see the biggest collection of creepy crawlies in the region, and Teatro Nacional.
Outside of San Jose see the Volcan Arenal - the most active volcano in Central America, erupting every few hours.
Beach life or park life?
Those looking for a resort feel on a budget head for Montezuma, whilst those wanting something a little more luxurious make for Tarmarindo. For an intriguing mix of Bribri Indian and Afro-Caribbean culture try Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
Surfies head along the Pacific Ocean - Pavones is the longest surf beach. Parque Nacional Rincon de la Vieja in the north-west is a volcanic wonderland of cones, craters, lagoons, boiling mud pools and sulphur springs.
Parque Nacional Corcovado in the south has long-distance trails through tropical rainforest best walked in the dry season. There are shorter walks around Monteverde in the coastal Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, south of Quepos.
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| | | Dance the salsa | | Where's good for nightlife?
In San Jose and want a drink and a dance? Head for El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte, Casa Matute or the Club Cocodrilo.
'Ticos like to drink, talk and dance so the scene is not like British mega clubs. Nightlife does go on late, salsa is a popular dance form - take in a couple of salsa classes before you go so you can join in!
What's the food like?
The staple dish, usually served for breakfast, is gallo pinto, a mixture of rice and black beans, sometimes served with huevos fritos/revueltos (fried/scrambled eggs).
Tortillas are also popular - either Mexican-style wraps or Spanish omelettes depending where you eat. Casado is a filling, set meal usually of rice, beans, meat and veg. Elote is corn on the cob and olle de carne is a filling meat soup.
Food is herby but not pepper-hot so there is usually a bottle of tabasco on the table for those who like a little more spice.
What should I buy?
Costa Rica makes many handicraft items - textiles, leatherwork, wooden toys, coffee, pottery, gourd crafts, or more expensive gold work in pre-Colombian styles.
In San Jose, Annemarie's Boutique in the Hotel Don Carlos has a good selection, try the markets in the Plaza de la Cultura, or the Mercado Central for a shopping extravaganza.
Alternatively you could head to the village of Sarchi where you can watch artisans at work before you buy.
What is there for children to do?
If your brood enjoys outdoor pursuits then lots (see previous sections), but if they want Mediterranean-style children's clubs and activities you need to check with your hotel and Costa Rica is probably not for you.
Children who are interested in wildlife will never forget their first close encounters with the incredible and sometimes weird tropical life forms here.
Tourist office
Embassy of Costa Rica, 14 Lancaster Gate, London W2 3LH. Tel. 020 7706 8844. For tourist information please call after 10am.
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| | Fact File : Costa Rica |
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| | | Costa Rica | | Did you know?
Mount Arenal was dormant from 1500AD until July 29, 1968 - when huge explosions triggered lava flows, killing 78 people.
Language
Spanish, Creole English and aboriginal dialects - predominantly Bribri.
Visas
A passport valid for at least six months after your trip is required. No visa needed if your stay is for less than 90 days.
Getting there
Direct flights from Manchester, London Heathrow, London Gatwick to the capital's San Jose International Airport.
Flying time from London
12 hours
Getting around
There are two domestic airlines, but you need to book well in advance. San Jose is the transport hub, where you can catch buses to most parts of the country. The system can be chaotic and not very comfortable, but the fares are cheap.
Currency
Colon, plural colones, named after Cristobal Colon (Christopher Columbus to you and me), divided into 100 centimos.
Costs
A litre of petrol 38p, a bottle of beer £1.30, a short taxi ride £2, a moderately priced restaurant meal with wine £25, a roll of camera film £6.50. Prices will vary.
Weather
Temperatures vary little between seasons, but are affected by altitude. San Jose (1150m) 60-79F(15-26C), Caribbean coast 70-86F(21-28C). It's the rain you've got to look out for - rainy season May-November, and ever-present on the Caribbean coast although more sporadic during December-April.
Time difference
Six hours behind GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 506
Voltage
110VAC at 60Hz so all UK/European appliances need a converter.
Opening hours
Banks from 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, government offices from 8am-4pm Mon-Fri (but they often shut for an hour around lunch). Shops are open Mon-Sat 8am-6-7pm but they often have a two-hour lunch break.
Health - Before you go
No vaccinations are required to enter, but it may be a good idea to make sure you are protected against cholera, hepatitis and malaria. Check with your GP or the FCO on 020 7238 4503/3 as it depends upon which region you are visiting. The UK has no reciprocal health agreements with Costa Rica - so get insured.
Health - When you are there
To avoid dengue fever - spread by mosquitoes - take insect repellent. There is a low risk of cholera and hepatitis. Costa Rican social security hospitals give free emergency services to everyone - including tourists (San Jose Hospital San Juan de Dios, Paseo Colon, Calle 14, Tel: 257 6282), but be insured.
Warnings
Take extra care when swimming off beaches, especially in the Atlantic, as riptides are common and reliable local advice should be sought (200 people a year drown from this). Also watch out for bizarre electric shower heaters common in hotels - don't touch any metal parts while showering as they can deliver a nasty shock as well as tepid water.
Emergency
Police National emergency Tel 999. Red Cross - Cruz Roja 128 in San Jose, in Alajuela 441 3939, Cartago 551 0421, Heredia 237 1115, Guanacaste 666 0994, Limon 758 0125, Puntarenas 661 0184. British Embassy: Apartado 815, Edifico Centro Colon (11th Floor), San Jose 1007. Tel: 00 506 258 2025.
Customs
Costa Rica is a conservative place. Family values are paramount - so no skimpy outfits if you want a hassle-free time. Topless sunbathing is definitely out. Expect people to ask you about family, as this is an everyday inquiry rather like our "how are you?"
Pets
Don't take them and don't bring any back, as they will be quarantined in the UK.
Tipping
Most restaurants add 15% tax and 10% tip on to your bill, which is legally correct. Tipping above this is not necessary but a few per cent for excellent service is fine. Taxi drivers are not normally tipped.
Tourist office
Consulate of Costa Rica, 14 Lancaster Gate, London W2 3LH. Tel: 020 7706 8844. For tourist information please call after 10am.
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| | Available rental properties in Costa Rica |
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| |  | | Casa Warilla
2 Bedroom home in Quepos. Walking distance to buses, restaurants, the town center, and the waterfront.
|  | | Casa Verdugo
Two Bedroom, Two Bathroom Villa in Puerto Quepos, Costa Rica. Sleeps 6, village and sunset views, close to buses, restaurants, and the waterfront.
|  | | Casa Bumerango, Quepos
Three Bedroom, One Bath home in Quepos, Costa Rica, walking distance to town, restaurants, tours and the waterfront.
|  | | 500 m2 villa with private pool and maid service
big villa on 30.000 m2 with 24 h maid service, close to the beach, very luxureous house which gives you an ocean of rest, perfect for families or frie
|  | | Norma's Villa Resort
2 Bedroom Villa located on 5 acres, 2 swimming pools, sunbathing pool, bbq area
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Holiday Rentals in Costa Rica |
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