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 |  | Travel Reviews : Devon |
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| | | | UK holidays are never a last resort
Global warming? Come on down, I say - especially if it can ensure the kind of sparkling weather my family enjoyed during a recent holiday in north Devon.
The sun, of course, is exactly the reason why so many of us risk airport strikes, security alerts, customs hassles and unfamiliar food every year.
But what if you could get your annual ration of sunshine without actually leaving these shores?
In August my family enjoyed unbroken sunshine as guests of Park Resorts at their Bideford Bay base on the pristine North Devon coast.
And under a blue sky Britain is hard to beat - especially the riviera of the west. Pristine beaches, home-cooked food, blooming gardens... I could go on.
But at Park Resorts they take nothing for granted and there's plenty to do inside if the skies go grey.
Bideford Bay Park Resort boasts indoor and outdoor pools, amusement arcades, nightly discos, great bars and even archery lessons. Fun, as they say, for all the family.
But the surrounding area really swings it. Clovelly is one of the to-die-for fishing villages studding the coast, and the famous Eden Project in Cornwall is nearby.
All of us are keen gardeners so a visit to the world-famous botanical experiment was definitely on the agenda and we enjoyed a delightful and different day out.
Established as one of the landmark Millennium projects it attracts visitors from right across the world. The project essentially experiments with bio-diversity and analyses plant sustainability. As their website says: "We belong to everybody."
The stunning Coastal Path is another must and the giant Milky Way Adventure Park is great for children with bags of energy to burn off.
Shiny, happy people
Still best of British
From the Daily Mail
Gentle charm is what Exmoor does best: small, quiet towns and villages set in relatively wild and unspoilt open moorland and wooded valleys. On my visit earlier this month - to see how the area was coping with foot-and-mouth - the trees were billowing with blossom and the lanes banked high with primroses.
Our first stop was Porlock Weir, a tiny harbour with thatched cottages on a pebbly beach. First signs weren't good. A council notice in the car park provided a stark reminder: 'Keep out of the countryside,' it said.
Happily, the staff at the ancient Anchor Hotel could not have been friendlier and we awoke to a view of the Bristol Channel and one of those deliciously filling, freshly cooked English breakfasts.
From here it was up the hill to Porlock and its visitor centre. This was spick and span, and loaded with leaflets about things to do. Behind the desk, Denise was offering advice and coffee to a cycling family. Then she told me how, at the start of the crisis, she sat up all night putting together an information book she now keeps on her desk.
It's entitled You Can Have A Lovely Holiday In Porlock, Despite The Foot-And-Mouth Outbreak. And, like everyone else we met, she was quick to say that Exmoor is not infected by the disease, but it is affected.
Travel Guide: Devon
Ghost walking in Exeter
From the Daily Mail
Ancient and modern rub shoulders in a most exciting manner in Exeter. One minute you're nibbling radicchio with parmesan shavings in a stylish, state of the art brasserie, and the next you're gazing up at the medieval stone carvings on the cathedral's magnificent West Front.
Within five paces of the crowds and bustle of the main shopping drag, you're strolling along an Elizabethan alleyway and straight on to the lawns of the Cathedral Green.
Exeter, capital of Devon, is one of England's oldest, most compact cities. It is full of little corners, narrow streets, inviting doorways, ancient city walls, beautiful gardens and pretty parks. It has the lovely Northcott Theatre, a brilliant variety of fast-food and budget cafes, and award-winning Chef Michael Caines has just opened his wonderful new restaurant at the Royal Clarence.
It is a city where all attractions are within easy walking distance, including the historic quayside where you can hire punts and canoes or take boat trips down the winding River Exe.
On the quay are furniture workshops, antiques, a sweaty rave disco called The Hot House, and the Mud Dock Cafi, similar to an aircraft hangar. This ultra-cool hang-out has bicycles dangling from the rafters, pinball machines, trendy grub and screens playing extreme sports videos.
Travel Guide: Devon
All aboard for a stream of delights
From the Daily Mail
Nine-year-old Ellie isn't quite Nancy Blackett of Swallows And Amazons. But she knows the ropes and can steer a safe course on a busy little river. Six-year-old Maddy is now an expert on the carrying capabilities of tiny ponies and, as for Loulou, four, she has learned that if you walk sideways like a crab you stand a good chance of falling off the jetty.
No family holiday in Dittisham, South Devon, is complete without placing a bit of prime bacon on a crab line. Crabs of various shapes, colours and sizes crowd around to be caught.
Beyond Tor Bay, the palm trees and grand hotels peter out around Paignton and Brixham. The unbridged valley of the intricate River Dart protects narrow lanes and secluded inlets from the holiday hordes. It's an extra hour or so down the road from Exeter, or at least an hour waiting in the summer queue for either of the car ferries to Dartmouth.
One of the best ways to enjoy the area is to rent one of the country barn-style wooden houses springing up on farms. As we relished a leisurely breakfast, the wide view from our kitchen included Blackness Rock, a deceitful pile of stones which revealed itself only at low tide, diverting scudding yachts and motor boats.
With boats for hire within walking distance and a regular boat up the river to Totnes or downstream to Dartmouth, there's no need for a car. Crossing the river is simple: Ellie tolled the big brass bell at the bottom of the main street and boatman Frank came over for us.
The opposite bank offers a panoramic view of the old houses on Dittisham quay and the chance to visit Agatha Christie's former home, Greenway, now owned by her daughter and son-in-law. The house and gardens are open on only two days a year, but you can always visit the garden centre.
Larger villages have surrendered their shops but Dittisham's is thriving - not least on sales of bacon to tempt crabs with. Those who have left cars behind can enjoy as much conviviality and real ale as they like in the village's two lively pubs.
Travel Guide: Devon
Nothing Fawlty with farm break
From the Daily Mail
Why on earth would anyone take a family holiday in Britain? This country has serious image problems among its own people, with gripes about Fawlty-esque hoteliers, rip-off accommodation and bad food.
And when foot-and-mouth struck, so did paranoia about going within 500 yards of a muddy track, let alone a cow or sheep.
Nevertheless, we - myself, my wife Marguerite, and two young boys, Rory, two, and Joe, four months - chose a self-catering complex of barns in South Devon. Wheeldon Farm, set in the rolling South Hams, falls in the parish of Diptford, some seven miles north of the popular seaside town of Salcombe. The 240-acre, family-run dairy farm opened the small complex this summer.
There are four well-equipped barns within the complex, which includes an indoor swimming pool, a games room and a neighbouring field with trampoline and assault course. Wheeldon is a working farm, so visitors can watch the morning or afternoon milking.
The 'three beaches' of Bigbury-on-Sea, Blackpool Sands and East Portlemouth are heavily advertised to visitors.
Bigbury has the added attraction of Burgh Island. During low tide, it is possible to walk the quarter-of-a-mile across the sand to the island, home to the upmarket Burgh Island Hotel. At high tide, a tractor and trailer takes trippers to and fro.
Blackpool Sands, a sweeping golden cove near Dartmouth, offers good swimming, sea kayaks for hire and beach fishing. The beach is pebbly, so bring suitable footwear.
The beach at East Portlemouth can be reached by car along the estuary road. However, parking is difficult, so most trippers take the short ferry hop from Salcombe across the estuary. At low tide, a wide and clean sandy beach opens up with rock pools teeming with crabs.
Salcombe is one of those quaint seaside towns with narrow streets but it has suffered from an influx of second-homers in search of the good life.
However, there is still plenty of evidence of its fishing history and expertise. It is worth hunting out Dockwood, a workshop and store that sells furniture constructed from wood reclaimed from beach pontoons. Inland, Buckfast Abbey is a sort of venerable theme park for the religiously inclined. Visitors can celebrate mass with the Benedictine monks in the abbey building, completed in 1938.
The shop sells unusual fare, ranging from medical remedies to artwork created by monks and nuns from across Europe. The abbey's own honey proved to be a popular choice among visitors.
Paignton Zoo, which styles itself as an 'environmental park', successfully marries the natural local woodland with the thrill of the exotic. Within its hilly trails are fascinating enclosures housing small collections of animals.
We were sorry to leave the farm, but congratulated ourselves over our decision to follow in Tony Blair's footsteps and holiday in Britain.
TRAVEL FACTS:
Details on Wheeldon from Farm Toad Hall Cottages: 01548 853 089.
Travel Guide: Devon
Forget the Med - it's heaven in Devon
From a secluded spot near the rocks, a curtain of woodland behind me, I looked out across a quarter of a mile of sands to a clear blue sea flecked with sailing boats. It could have been Portugal or Corsica. In fact, I was in South Devon.
I had only grudgingly accepted an affordable family holiday. But Devon was a revelation - proof that English resorts can compete with the best in Europe, even if you have to pack twice as many clothes and half as much sunscreen.
To the Rough Guide crowd, Devon is typical chocolate-box Britain - gentrified villages packed with retirees and urban refugees.
Yet from the wild, rocky cliffs of the north coast, through the moors and valleys of Dartmoor to the whitewashed fishing villages of the south, Devon boasts landscapes to satisfy everyone. But best of all it has some of the most glorious beaches in the country.
Our plan was simple: two weeks, two locations - one in the north near the golden sands at Woolacombe and Croyde, one in the south close to the chic sailing resort of Salcombe.
Holidaying with another family did involve logistical problems: four adults and five children sharing three bedrooms and a bathroom in a cottage in the grounds of 18th Century Corffe Mansion in the wooded Taw Valley, near Barnstaple.
But with three-and-a-half acres of grounds including tennis courts, swings and a wooden fort along with - most important on rainy days - a fine indoor pool, we all managed.
Travel Guide: Devon
A gin and frolic on the moor
From the Daily Mail
Dartmoor, in Devon, is England's last great wilderness and the best way to explore its 367 square miles is on horseback, trotting through the bracken and cantering over the springy turf.
The excellent Shilstone Rocks stud is a good place for pony trekkers. Near Widecombe-in-the-Moor, it provides hard hats, qualified escorts and gentle ponies. You can plod contentedly up to Buckland Beacon and watch the spectacular sunsets over the valley.
You can also see two weathered slabs of granite engraved with the Ten Commandments, put there in the early 1900s.
Up on the craggy tors, where hawks hover and the wind whistles through the gorse, you really feel miles from anywhere among the Neolithic stone circles, megaliths, wind-blasted trees and bogs. But when sudden mists descend you feel fairly spooked.
'Drive With Moor Care' is the local message. However, along the leafy lanes, the locals are a much worse hazard than the area's wildlife. I wish I could report that they are cheery folk, but no, they all seem to drive Range Rovers very fast and hog the roads.
I recovered at the Rugglestone Inn at Widecombe, in a lovely garden where I ate a home-made chicken pie and drank half a pint of cider.
For those on small budgets, I recommend Dartmoor Camping Barns. It's like camping without the elements. Offering simple accommodation for individuals or small groups, they cost £3.50 a night and are terrific.
Also, don't miss Rock Inn, tucked below the granite mass of Hay Tor.
Tor itself is a fabulous climb and you encounter lots of friendly bobble-hatted hikers at the top.
And for those who enjoy a little luxury, I recommend a night at Holne Chase Hotel. It's homely and dogs are welcome.
Owner Sebastian Hughes even dishes up a unique home-made sloe gin that should, perhaps, be covered by the Dangerous Substances Act.
Before eating next morning, I actually stripped down to my underwear and leapt into the foaming Dart for the hell of it. Blame it on the gin, the fresh air, or simply the call of the moor.
TRAVEL FACTS:
Holne Chase Hotel, Holne.Tel: 01364 631471. Stone Camping Barn, Holne:Tel: 01364 631544.
Travel Guide: Devon
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| | | | Food for thought
Park Resorts have centres right around the UK and (very) well-equipped self-catering is the norm. But prepared food is also a purse-friendly option.
Bideford's pubs are warmly welcoming and there are plenty of restaurants in the area. And guess what - the fish and chips are fantastic. No surprise there then.
The area definitely caters for serious foodies though - especially if you're a seafood fan. After all, it isn't much more than a couple of fin flips away from Rick Stein territory.
Another of the high points was the unfailing friendliness of the Park Resorts staff - even the pool lifeguards entered into the splashing spirit of things.
My nephew and niece were too old for the Sparky Krew shenanigans but loved the nightly themed fun - Silly Wig Night was quite a chuckle. But don't worry parents - there IS a quiet bar to escape into.
Ultimately, of course it was the sunshine that swung it. The rather rare British variety calls you outdoors and Devon's north coast just begs a return to the more gentle holiday activities. You know, golden sands, glittering sea and so on.
For my 11-year-old nephew Adam shrimping was a novel adventure. "We got some with our nets in the beach pools," he told me, "but we always put them back." I think the poor boy's been watching too much Bill Oddie.
So if the British weather is indeed getting hotter, a return to a more home-based holiday trend is bound to follow.
I won't be turning my back on foreign climes forever, but it's nice not to feel constrained to follow the herd down to Spain or Greece.
If my family's golden week on the North Devon coast is anything to go by holidaying in the UK could be the next big thing.
* Prices for a week's stay at Bideford Bay Holiday Park in September start from £179. This is based on up to six people sharing a Bronze two-bedroom caravan. Four-night midweek breaks start from £89, while three-night weekend breaks start from £79. Book online at park-resorts.com or call 08701 299 299.
- Feeling inspired? Book a UK break.
Old-fashioned holidays
Porlock isn't chocolate-box pretty but it is attractive, with a lovely sense of being a proper working community. Next stop was Dulverton, a charming, small town with a butcher, grocer, chemist, pubs and teashop.
Then it was on to Exford, in the centre of Exmoor, for the night. At the Crown Hotel, the landlady kept laughingly apologising for the 1970s-style chocolate brown bathroom suite.
I can't get enough of Exmoor and, on the last day, drove slowly across the moors to the coast My wallet and I have suffered a lot over the years in Britain from surly service, overpriced, unexceptional hotels and duff, expensive visitor attractions. Not so on this visit.
Everyone is friendly and honest, but, sadly, at more than £300 for two nights for two with dinner in three-star hotels, it doesn't stand up well to comparisons with France or Spain. Exmoor is not an area with must-see cathedrals or world heritage towns to draw in the crowds. It's low-key and mainly unspoilt.
It's a place for old-fashioned holidays with, in my weekend's experience, no pretensions of offering too much of what it can't deliver. Exmoor is special. It's British rural tourism at its best.
Travel facts: See www.exmoornationalpark.gov.uk for maps of all open paths during the foot-and-mouth crisis. Or call the Exmoor helpline on 01398 322322.
Midsummer night's surprise
Bang in central Exeter I discovered a charming, small hotel, St Olaves. Positioned perfectly two minutes from the shops and the cathedral, it is quiet, luxurious, friendly and dishes-up dinners to dream about.
I recommend you take advantage of the excellent free City Walks with a Red Coat Guide. I opted for the Ghosts And Legend walk with guide Sandra Mutton, who carried a sprig of rosemary to ward off malevolent spooks.
Our little group walked along cobbled streets, past the Royal Clarence Hotel, once Sir Walter Raleigh's townhouse, and now home to a coughing spirit and a grey lady who peers forlornly from a certain window.
It is a minor miracle that so much of old Exeter remains to be enjoyed. In 1942, when German bombers roared up the Exe estuary, the city was badly blitzed and the cathedral took a direct hit. Happily the damage was repairable and the building, dating mostly from the 14th century, remains one of the wonders of England.
It's a weird sensation emerging from the cathedral and plunging straight into the 20th century shops. Go to Gandy Street and Paul Street for designer togs and fashionable household accessories. The shabby-looking Fore Street springs a few surprises including Feathers for bespoke bridal and ballgowns, and a rather peculiar fancy-dress shop strictly for adults.
Speaking of surprises, I discovered that the Northcott Theatre had transformed the wooded moat of the Rougemont Castle gardens into a superb open-air set for a terrific performance of A Midsummer Night's Dream. And the rain held off all night.
Sailing is a breeze
Dartmouth can be crowded. The locals claim it has England's biggest party on New Year's Eve and you can't even park a bike on regatta weekend, but otherwise it's a sedate place, heavy with history, dominated by Britannia Royal Naval College, though there's rarely a frigate on the river now.
Totnes is different, a small hippy town with hardly a shop that doesn't sell scented candles and beads. Serious wholefood, in massive portions, can be washed down with local cider in a variety of eateries, and there's a first-floor toyshop with an amazing display of working steam engines.
Then there is the real thing - the delights of the Paignton and Dartmouth steam railway, and of the South Devon Railway between Totnes and Buckfastleigh. We chugged along beside the upper River Dart in the rain and wondered why Staverton station, halfway to Buckfastleigh, looked so familiar until we read the notice listing films and TV series that have used its nostalgic delights.
At Buckfastleigh the most shivering of families can get warm in the Butterfly House or by running around the Otter Sanctuary; and there's a huge model railway in the cafe for anyone not yet sated.
Every morning we studied the pattern of wind on water to see if it was calm enough for Ellie to go sailing. Finally a glassy surface surrounded Blackness Rock and the sailing school rang to report that the wind stood fair for two hours of gentle scudding across the estuary in a Wayfarer, under the guidance of sailing teacher Ollie.
Five more lessons, he said, and Ellie could think of captaining the Amazon. She could imagine nothing better.
Thomas the Tank fans
Drizzly-day outings to local National Trust houses such as Arlington Court with its model boats and stuffed birds are not, on reflection, a good idea when you have children aged four and two.
But a glimpse of blue sky and the thoughtful provision of a windbreak took us happily to the two-and-a-quarter mile beach at Woolacombe.
The weather held and the days settled into a pattern; a swim in the morning then all into the car for the beach or the obligatory tourist attraction. In fact, the mechanical dinosaur park, zoo and falconry displays at Coombe Martin were a hit.
For our second week, we headed south to the rolling fields of the South Hams. Mostly we stuck to coastal resorts - North Sands, Blackpool Sands, Bantham, Bigburyon-Sea and, our favourite, Salcombe, its narrow streets packed with designer shops, delis and expensive restaurants.
We did shake the sand out of our sandals occasionally. Dartmouth has a dramatic castle and the Paignton & Dartmouth Steam Railway, which takes you north along the Torbay coast, is a must for Thomas the Tank Engine fans. Further afield, there is a superbly laid out aquarium at Plymouth.
But it was the beach at Salcombe to which we returned on our last day, unable to believe that we had in fact managed our 'Mediterranean' holiday after all.
TRAVEL DETAILS:English Country Cottages (www.english-country-cottages.co.uk tel: 0870 442 2515) offers stays at the Coach House, near Barnstaple.
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| | Destination Guide : Devon |
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| | | Rugged scenery |  | Why go on holiday to Devon?
Devon has eye-catching scenery, from sandy beaches to rugged moors, with two National Parks - Dartmoor and Exmoor. It is also one of the few destinations in Britain that can almost guarantee a reasonable summer.
Winding country roads will invariably lead you to delectable small villages, perhaps even offering the fabled cream tea or farmhouse cider — easy now!
How much does it cost?
There's a huge variety of accommodation, from hotels to B&B farmhouses to self-catering cottages and caravans. Naturally, prices vary enormously. A two- bedroom cottage for four people for a week may be as little as £190 off-season but £480 peak season.
A three-bedroom caravan costs around £470 in August. If there's enough of you, why not live it up at Buckland House, a mansion with 15 bedrooms sleeping 26 people, costing £1,650 off-season, £3,300 peak.
Apex train fares from London Paddington to Exeter cost from £24 if booked seven days in advance. Off-peak fares from Birmingham New Street cost £53. Check stations for details.
Rail fares can vary greatly and you should always check with the operator for exact prices.
How do I get there?
By train: there are many trains direct to Exeter from Birmingham New Street or London Paddington. Plymouth station is 10 minutes' walk from the town centre; to get to the ferry ports you'll need to take a taxi.
By coach: coaches run to Exeter coach station, located in the city centre, and to Plymouth coach station, which is a five-minute walk to the town centre.
By air: Exeter airport receives flights from Birmingham, Ireland and the Channel Islands.
By car: the M5 is the fastest route. The A39 along the north Devon coast is scenic, but takes more time than you'd expect, especially during summer traffic. Same goes for the A35 or A30/A303 south coast route.
When should I go?
Summer is the most pleasant, although the resorts can get crowded with holidaymakers. Eerie Dartmoor and the craggy North Devon coastline provide a romantic backdrop in winter if you're prepared to brave the elements.
The climate is generally mild but can be wet and very changeable. Some east-facing sheltered coastal areas, such as Torbay, support sub-tropical vegetation.
In May to September there is an average 7.5 sunshine hours per day; the average rainfall per day is 0.06 inches; and the average high temperature is 17.5C (64F).
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| | | Adventures on the moors |  | What should I do when I'm there?
If you're after olde-worlde charm and history, you'll find it in Devon. Exeter's origins date back to the Romans in AD50, and the remnants of their stay are still visible. The Vikings played their part, as did the Normans.
The 600-year-old cathedral is one of best examples of Gothic architecture in Europe. The famous promenade of Plymouth Hoe has great views and the Plymouth Dome is a high-tech rendition of the city's history, and a reconstructed Tudor street.
More historic atmosphere can be had at the Barbican, full of galleries and craft shops, and the Elizabethan House. Gin-slingers should go on a tour of the Plymouth Dry Gin distillery.
Sidmouth International Folk Festival takes place in the first week of August each year. 500 events are staged around town as singers, musicians and dancers from all over the folk world descend on the coastal town.
What's the countryside like?
Torbay, Torquay and Brixham enjoy some of the best weather in the British Isles, forming part of what locals optimistically call the English Riviera.
Torquay has a long promenade, bright lights and the usual British seaside attractions. Paignton is a little gentler on the nerves, while Brixham's main attraction is the fishing trips on offer along the harbour.
Exmoor has contrasting landcapes, from spectacular headlands and high cliffs of the coastline to heathery inland expanses and rocky tors. There are marked walking and cycling trails, and you can go on safari to track the last of Britain's wild red deer.
Why have I heard of Dartmoor?
It's where Sherlock Holmes encountered and defeated the terrifying Hound Of The Baskervilles. It's the location of one of Britain's highest-security prisons - Princeton. Dartmoor also has some of the bleakest and most exposed landscape in Britain.
The terrain is dotted with distinctive tors and remnants of the many quarries and mines that once operated there. The best of the many prehistoric remains is the Bronze-Age village of Grimspound.
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| | | Supafragicalorific cream teas! | | Where's good for nightlife?
Both Exeter and Plymouth have their fair share of salty pubs - good places to while away a wet evening and swap fisherman's tales.
Each town has cinemas, theatres and an array of live music. The Cavern, on Queen Street in Exeter, has free entry on Saturdays; the Pavillions in Plymouth hosts everything from Tom Jones to the Bolshoi Ballet.
What's the food like?
No visitor to Devon should attempt to avoid the cream tea experience. Hot buttered scones, with a large dollop of clotted cream topped with strawberry jam - it's a cholesterol nightmare. Yum.
Fresh fish is another specialty, though sadly these days you might have to search hard to find it. The Anchor at Cockwood is a friendly pub by the harbour with great fish and shellfish - and more than 30 ways of serving mussels!
What should I buy?
For hundreds of years Honiton has been a centre for lace-making. The craft is thought to originate from Flemish refugees who settled in the area in the 16th century.
The women lace-makers would sit outside their houses, taking full advantage of the bright daylight to weave their highly intricate lace patterns. The Honiton Lace shop sells lace old and new, from antique wedding veils to modern christening robes.
Of course, a huge tub of clotted cream is a must.
What is there for children to do?
Devon has many family holiday centres with pools and games rooms. Woodland Leisure Park at Blackawton has a water coaster, daily falconry demonstrations and a small zoo.
At the National Maritime Aquarium in Plymouth, children can see sharks being fed, as well as being able to touch less risky creatures such as starfish.
Tourist office
Devon Tourism, PO Box 55, Barnstaple EX32 8YR. Tel 0870 608 5531.
Plymouth Tourist Information Centre, tel 01752 304 849.
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| | Available rental properties in Devon |
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