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| | | | Sands of time
From the Daily Mail
You heard the wind before you felt it.
From down in the dry lake wadi came a rustling of leaves; moments later a night breeze flowed over you like cool water. I lay in my sleeping bag, watching the crescent moon. And I was confirmed in the belief that nothing in this world can equal the simple joy of sleeping out under the stars - especially in the Holy Land of Sinai.
Sinai is a place apart; a rugged land of deserts, mountains and miracles. This is where Moses encountered the Burning Bush, and received the Ten Commandments. It has been inhabited, mostly by Bedouin nomads, for 5,000 years.
Our small group had come here for a week's walking, followed by a week on Egypt's popular Red Sea coast. We set off from the village of St Catherine - a dusty shambles of weathered stone houses - climbing up through a wadi. Above us, three bigger mountains - Safsafa, St Catherine's and Sinai itself - stood like watchtowers.
'Paradise' is a Persian word which found its way into the Egyptian language and came to mean 'walled garden'. Making our first camp in one, it was easy to see why. Low stone walls enclosed a grove of olive, cypress and fruit trees. There was a well with drinking water, and a bamboo canopy hung with vines for shade. A Bedouin family nodded hello with dreamy smiles.
Sitting round a fire built from apricot branches, we talked. Not the urgent, fill-in-the-gaps conversation of most urban life, but a slower, more reflective process.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Charm of Sharm
From the Daily Mail
On one of those doldrum days of midwinter, when you wonder whether the sun will ever shine again, I started wondering: how close is guaranteed heat? Can it be reached without the stress of a long-haul flight and without a major time-change?
And that's how I discovered Egypt's Sharm el Sheikh. As the plane descended in the early evening, after just five hours of flying, I could see the jagged red hills of the Sinai desert lit up by the dying rays of the sun. This is biblical country, full of resonances. It is where the Red Sea parted and Moses received the Ten Commandments, and where Crusaders fought to keep Christianity alive from a famous castle near the resort of Taba.
It is also full of underwater wildlife, just waiting to be explored. I could already see the changing depths of the turquoise sea below, and the promise of snorkelling trips to observe rainbow-coloured fish.
I was not prepared for the teeming life of the town itself. Later, as my daughter, Polly, and I stepped out of our hotel for an evening meal, the town was like a mini Las Vegas. The main drag, let's call it the Sharm Strip, was dancing with neon fairylights, which illuminated the throng of people eating out under radiant heaters. There's even gambling for foreign visitors.
Egyptian family life takes place on the streets after dark. At 1am, whole families, from babes in arms to veiled dowagers, were still strolling up and down, arms linked, chattering loudly. At the cafes, their menfolk sat and smoked hubble-bubble glass water-filled pipes and occasionally broke into a little Zorba-style dance together. All around, children were whizzing about on motorised scooters while tradesmen were trying to sell reproductions of ancient Egyptian gods, glass perfume jars or henna tattoos.
But the next morning, the street was like a ghost town. Even the keenest shopkeepers were still snoozing inside their shops at midday, avoiding the sun. Not so the Britons, myself included, who were out on the beach at breakfast time, where it was hard to remember this was the middle of winter back home.
For the first couple of days there was a bit of a breeze, but when it died down the heat reached a searing 80F for at least a couple of hours, quite long enough to get a gentle tan and try a little exploration of underwater life.
We took a sedate trip round the bay on the glass-bottom boat, spotting some rocks which looked perfect for a snorkelling trip later. They turned out to belong to the Hyatt hotel - the place where President Clinton tried to accelerate the Israeli-Palestinian peace process before leaving office.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Wear comfortable shoes for walking
I would highly recommend a cruise down the Nile. I did a cruise boat trip with MS Suntimes, and it was wonderful.
The only downside was that our resident Egyptologist would often leave us at the hands of the local traders! But apart from this, it was truly wonderful.I highly recommend people to go to the temple of Philae, an awesome place indeed.
Plus if you want to go anywhere, wear trainers as there's alot of walking.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Nile file - cruising down the river
Face facts - Britain's cities look grey in January, while those of Egypt are a riot of colour.
A Nile cruise between the cities of Luxor and Aswan is an ideal escape from the winter blues, offering a feast of sunshine, amazing vistas and history.
You won't see the Pyramids but you will see an awesome range of ancient temples and burial chambers of kings and queens as well as a dazzling modern panorama.
As 96% of the land in Egypt is desert, it's unlikely a holiday there will be spoiled by rain.
Summer months can be unbearably hot but at this time of year days are warm, balmy and often blessed with a gentle breeze. Temperatures dip after sunset so take a sweater.
A Nile cruise allows you to top up your tan on deck in between visits ashore to step back into history.
On the West Bank of Luxor is the Valley of the Kings with 62 tombs of pharaohs who, to deter grave robbers, were not buried under a conspicuous pyramid.
Here is the tomb of King Tutankhamun - now less impressive since its fabulous treasures were unearthed by Howard Carter in 1922.
More awe-inspiring is the temple of legendary Queen Hatshepsut which at a distance resembles a Hollywood filmset.
Luxor is also home to Karnak Temple - staggering in size and complexity, which hosts a nightly sound-and-light show. Further downriver are the temples of Esna, dedicated to the god of creation, and Edfu, dedicated to Horus the falcon-headed god.
The banks of the Nile once teemed with crocodiles and Komombo Temple is partly dedicated to croc-headed god Sobek.
They disappeared after the great dam at Aswan - a huge project to make more of the country fertile - was built.
Its construction meant the Philae Temple, dedicated to goddess Isis, was shifted to a nearby island and rebuilt after being briefly half-submerged.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Scents of spices
From the Mail on Sunday
Luxor is about temples and tombs and the beautiful Nile river - plus blue skies, warm days and cool evenings.
As you step off your flight you meet the Middle East scents of spices and wood smoke, and see the desert slipping away endlessly in a soft, sandy haze.
My husband and I have chosen to stay in the Movenpick Hotel on Crocodile Island in the Nile. The hotel is Swiss and there's a strangely apres-ski feel to the reception area, but the bar is open at midnight and the staff are very welcoming. The rooms are a series of circular, pink bungalows in a 30-acre garden that borders the river.
The first morning of our week's holiday is spent visiting the awe-inspiring Luxor Temple. A long avenue of sphinxes leads to the magnificent statues of Rameses II and a lonely obelisk - one of a pair, the other being in Paris. The temple is entered through another avenue of giant columns covered with engravings and relief work whose sheer beauty and skill take your breath away.
The sun beats down and the muezzin's call to prayer echoes across town while we repair to the nearby old Winter Palace Hotel for a drink. This stately pile overlooks the busy corniche with its horse-drawn caleches plying their trade amid the traffic.
The hotel gardens are magnificent and there is a good swimming pool. King Farouk of Egypt had winter apartments here before political change in the Fifties.
Later on, we walk along the corniche amid groups of schoolgirls in white headdresses and blue school-uniform robes and men of all ages in elegant djellabas.
Further down the corniche is the Temple of Karnak. The stone figures are at least three times the height and twice the width of a man. The double line of lotus and papyrus-topped columns are 70ft high and the colours of the painted relief work can still be seen - gently glowing pale corals, greens and soft yellows.
Guide books will give you all the information, but it is still 100 times more fabulous than you expect.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Luxor, Egypt: Gateway to the past
No amount of textbook history will prepare you for the magnificence of Luxor and its ancient ruins.
From the Valley of the Kings to the Colossi of Memnon and the temples of Luxor and Karnak, the antiquities here will capture your soul.
But behind the often mind-boggling history is much to discover in this small town, from luxury cruises down the Nile, to fine hotels.
Tours to the infamous Valley of the Kings begin at 8am, before the sun's heat becomes too unbearable. In May, temperatures are typically 43 degrees.
The entrance ticket (about £4) permits access to three of the 62 tombs. Many tourists are keen to view that of Tutankhamun.
In fact this is one of the less impressive. Given his short reign the tomb is small, with less artwork.
Just a short drive away from the Valley of the Kings sits the Village of the Artisans and Workers. Often neglected on tours, this place hides away two of the most impressive tombs. Although smaller than the tombs of the pharoahs, the vivid colours that remain in the artwork are astounding.
Be aware that although cameras are allowed inside the tombs, flashes are forbidden.
As impressive as the Valley of the Kings is, it shrinks in significance compared to the temples of Luxor and Karnak.
Based on the east bank of Luxor, the sheer scale of these ruins - dating back as far as 1500BC - is stunning, and commands instant respect.
Luxor temple's entrance is flanked by an impressive avenue of sphinxes, while in the evenings Karnak plays home to a dazzling light and sound show.
Luxor is not lacking in spectacular hotels, from the Old Winter Palace to the Mercure Coralia. It is normal to dine in the local hotels and food prices are reasonable, but beware the cost of alcohol, specifically spirits. Some hotels operate a corkage service.
The mainstay of hotels in Luxor are all based on one parade facing onto the pack of luxury cruisers along the Nile.
But take a step behind the facade to taste modern-day Egypt - men huddled round televisions, others gathered in cafes smoking shisha.
To take in the sights and smells, stop off at the Emilio Hotel. Non-guests are welcome to dine and relax on the roof terrace in the midst of Luxorian life.
There is much scare-mongering about the hassle tourists receive in Egypt - you'll sure to be approached to buy wares but this is rarely threatening.
Haggling at the bazaar is part of the Egyptian experience of Luxor. And once you acclimatise to the attention, bartering can be a huge buzz.
The unforgiving temperatures of midday Luxor will leave you ill-motivated to do anything much by way of sightseeing of an afternoon.
Reserve this time for a felucca ride down the Nile. A peaceful one-hour journey will take you to Banana Island.
For £1 you can wander around this shaded, tropical delight, and sample the bananas courtesy of the island owner Mr Lovely. No, really...
Libra Holidays (0870 066 4800) http://www.libraholidays.co.uk, offers seven-day holidays from £229.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Friendly and safe
I have visited Luxor several times over the last five years. I have never felt safer.
The people are extremely friendly and want you to see their country. Luxor is an excellent base for visiting numerous temples and sites.
Hire a taxi for the day and go to the West Bank. It's cheaper than the 'official' tours and the drivers can let you know about the temples and sites off the main tourist tracks.
Be prepared to barter - they expect and enjoy it. Food is good value for money but the beer and wines are overpriced for what they are.
An unforgettable experience.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Heaven on earth
If there is heaven on earth, Egypt is certainly that. It's the most breathtaking experience anyone could ever have.
I went to Luxor. Just as we left the airport we saw a scene which I looked more like a film set than reality - all the Egyptians were sat down, enjoying chatting to each other on a beautiful warm evening.
We visited Luxor Temple during the day and at night for the light show. I recommend to do both because the difference is incredible. You can most certainly feel the ancient air.
Unfortunately I feel that the Luxor Museum was a little disappointing - it's so small. Visiting the west bank is also a must, especially the Valley of the Kings and Queen Hatshepsut's Temple. It is also nice to take a Nile cruise even if it is only from the east to the west bank.
Cairo is quite musty but a very stunning city, full of life in every way.
A visit to the Egyptian Museum is a great learning experience, the citadel area is superb. You cannot forget the pyramids at Giza, a spectacular surreal moment. If you like to shop and haggle a visit to the Khan al-Khalili bazaar must not be missed. You are guaranteed to pick up lots of bargains. I hope I have inspired you to go.
Travel Guide: Egypt
An unforgettable cruise
I went to Luxor, Egypt, in September, with my husband. We were on a cruise for one week and then stayed in a hotel for the second week.
The Nile was so beautiful. It was almost biblical. The sunsets on the West Bank were breath-taking. We went on a falucca for two hours down to Banana Island.
Nesting in a tree were thousands of white birds. Palm trees and sugar cane lined the Nile.Children rowed out to us shouting "hello". So beautiful. So happy. Also camels sat resting after a busy day.
I won't ever forget it.
Travel Guide: Egypt
The splendours of Egypt
An indication of Egypt's enduring appeal is that any traveller's book of quotations would probably have to devote its largest section to this enigmatic nation.
Any great writer worth his salt who has visited has taken the trouble to record his impressions.
Herodotus observed: 'Egypt has more wonders in it than any other country in the world and provides more works that defy description than any other place.'
More recently, the American author Herman Melville wrote - enticingly - that the climate of Egypt in winter is 'the reign of spring upon earth, and summer in the air, and tranquility in the heat'.
We arrived, my husband Jon and I, on a Sunday night in February, and found it just as Melville observed.
It is recommended to travel there in the winter months, November to March, as otherwise it gets too hot for the sightseeing which is an essential part of the Egyptian experience.
The Four Seasons Hotel in Cairo, on the Nile, is new and sumptuous. I have stayed in a number of swish hotels in my time in Washington and New York and I have to say this is one of the most luxurious, with the best service I have ever experienced.
When you travel in Egypt you have to sightsee.
You can sit on the beach as we did at Sharm el Sheikh, you can sit on the verandahs and various terraces of the luxury hotels as we did, or you can laze on the sunbeds of your boat down the Nile as we did.
But this life of pleasure must be balanced by seeing something of ancient Egypt.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Egypt: The Red Sea riviera
If plenty of sun, sea and sand is what you demand on holiday, Egypt has more to offer than you might imagine.
Taba, on the Red Sea coast, shows off a side of a country more famous for pharaohs and pyramids - crisp, clear azure seas and stunning sandy beaches.
Sunseekers and water sports enthusiasts alike would love the region, which offers some of the best weather, diving and snorkel opportunities in the world.
While Egypt boasts all the history you could want, the beach oasis resorts of Sinai are sometimes sadly overlooked.
Which is a shame, because the 'Red Sea Riviera', from Taba to Dahab and Sharm in the south, is more than a match for traditional Mediterranean destinations.
Staying at the five-star Hyatt in Taba, on the tip of the Sinai peninsula, you are minutes away from everything this part of Egypt and the Red Sea offers.
Sunshine is not exactly in short supply in Taba, Egypt, with temperatures often soaring above 40C. If you can stand two hours on a beach, you'll have a tan.
You'll stay longer though, as the views (Israel, Saudi Arabia and Jordan are visible across the Red Sea), warm water and cool breezes equal paradise found.
Watching a fire-red sun rise over the Jordanian mountains while lounging on the sand is an experience to remember.
Anyone travelling to the Red Sea should not miss out on the diving, snorkelling and water sports opportunities.
Excursions to reef areas run daily from Taba, and the sea teems with exotic creatures like dolphins and barracudas.
Chasing after dolphins, although an exercise in futility (they're just too fast!), has to be a highlight of a day snorkelling in the Red Sea off Egypt.
Water sports centre Waterworld offers excursions to the best reef areas as well as para-sailing and windsurfing.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Inside the Mummy's tombs
From the Mail on Sunday
Ancient Egypt's obsession with the afterlife has earned Hollywood's undying gratitude over the years. The mummy Imhotep, originally immortalised on film by Boris Karloff, rises from another cursed burial in the recent release The Mummy Returns. But it's lucky for filmmakers that you can't libel the undead, for in reality Imhotep was one of ancient Egypt's most revered figures - a high priest, scientist, philosopher and demi-god.
And it was as the architect of the first pyramid, rather than as a cursed heretic, that he earned immortality.
Most visitors to Egypt see only the best known pyramids, what you might call the 'Giza three', but there are 108 known royal tombs, the latest discovered only two months ago. Most of the 25 great pyramids of the Old Kingdom, from the Third to the Seventh Dynasty, lie within easy reach of Cairo in a region known as the Memphite necropolis. The father of them all, Imhotep's Step Pyramid, is south of Cairo, at King Zoser's funerary complex in Saqqara.
The complex, built during Zoser's reign from 2628-2609 BC, has a more desolate feel than some of Egypt's other must-sees. This means you're unlikely to jostle with trinket touts and other tourists for the experience. However, this might change if current excavations to find Imhotep's tomb and real-life mummy at Saqqara are successful.
The site is dominated by King Zoser's tomb - its distinctive pyramid shape representing (depending on your guide book) steps to the horizon, the rays of the sun god Ra or the sacred mount rising from the Nile in Egyptian creation myths.
For the ancient Egyptians, man consisted of body, Ba (soul) and, in the case of the king, Ka - a life force bestowed by his father, Ra. All three had to be united after death for the king to reach judgment with Osiris, god of the underworld and the afterlife. The indestructibility of the stone used to build the pyramids, along with the preservative rites of mummification, were vital to protect the unity of Ka and king.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Little Venice of the Red Sea
Take one man with a dream. A scrap of desert by the coast. A few million dollars. And what do you get? Egypt's swankiest beach resort – El Gouna.
Sandwiched between the Red Sea and Eastern Desert Mountains and just 22 km from the high rise hotel-scape of Hurghada, this 15-year-old oasis of tastefully-designed buildings, fashionable boutiques and eclectic restaurants is such a newcomer that it is still a work in progress.
But aside from the dull thud of hammers and glimpse of scaffolding in the Downtown area, there's really nothing to moan about.
Shop owners in the Art Village crammed with chic souvenirs were friendly rather than pushy, the tuk tuk and taxi drivers shuttling us around the resort didn't over-charge and the late night bar scene was sedate rather than sexually-charged.
In fact, unlike the party-loving, beer-mad, British sun seekers who spill into Sharm el Sheik, unfortunately lumbering it with the tag, "the new Benidorm", El Gouna makes no pretence about its loftier aspirations: it claims to be the Little Venice of the Red Sea. After spending a week here in June, I was sold. This is a resort that lives up to the hype.
Consider again its history. Falling in love with the jagged, barren mountains overlooking a natural cove with achingly-clear waters, Egyptian tycoon Samih Sawiris felt inspired enough to create his own personal paradise. Undeterred by the region's harsh climate - annual rainfall here can be measured in several minutes – water, electricity and sewage pipes were installed.
As Sawiris's dream took shape, family and friends felt they'd also like a piece of the action. A hospital and school sprung up, together with luxury villas boasting private pools and six figure price tags.
Today, 15 man-made lagoons swirl around an area the size of central London. The resort boasts 15 hotels, an 18-hole golf course, a glittering marina with a second on its way, 85 restaurants and bars, a casino, 200 shops and 10km of beachfront lapped by ankle-deep, iron-flat, aquamarine waters.
There's no denying the resort's robust commercialism but you can't fault its green-friendly foundations. Buildings are prohibited from exceeding three stories, some of the 15 hotels share design awards thanks to elegant Nubian domes, graceful arches and pillars and its conservation efforts have scooped a string of accolades.
Underpinning it all is the desire to create a global village for El Gouna's 3,000 permanent guests – those who liked the resort so much, they stayed.
"We want to attract people from all over the world, so they can live peacefully together," said Daniel Breitbach, senior PR executive for Orascom, the resort's management company.
This was no better illustrated than at the sprawling Movenpick Resort & Spa Hotel where I stayed. British, America, French, Belgium, Italian, German and even Egyptian tourists stubbornly fried by the pool under 38C heat without any evidence of tension. United Nations: take note.
The philosophy's even enshrined in the resort's entertainment options. El Gouna's smart Abu Tig Marina, dotted with affordable three star hotels and self-catering apartments, hosts a weekly Friday night street festival featuring whirling dervishes and singers.
It's followed on Wednesdays by an Oasis Dinner in a Bedouin tent where belly dancers encourage unwitting holidaymakers to join them on stage. Slightly tacky but if there's one thing that's guaranteed to unify people – it's having a laugh.
Even the Dine Around programme ensures that, unlike most package breaks, you're not confined to your hotel at meal times. It enables full and half-board guests to feast on everything from Thai to French and Italian around the resort's participating hotels. In particular, the seafood buffet at the Sheraton Miramar Resort makes this optional extra worth splurging out for.
For sheer indulgence, nothing quite beats the Movenpick's superb Angsana spa where I was welcomed by the waft of incense and eucalyptus oil. I opted for the Balinese Ibu's Secret Massage. Using oils combining relaxing lavender with bacteria-blasting turmeric, my diminutive Indonesian therapist Nila pummelled and kneaded my body with superhuman strength. An hour and a half later, I practically floated out of the spa.
Of course, spending all my time in a horizontal position would have been criminal considering El Gouna's watery playground offers everything from kite surfing to the sea-go – the jet-ski's slower but no less thrilling cousin.
There's also 40 diving and snorkelling sites, although Dive Tribe boss Rob Read admitted El Gouna was often "overlooked" in favour of better-known spots. But he added: "The reefs here are in very good condition. They are not overrun like Sharm. And we have enough currents to make life interesting."
I saw this first-hand on a snorkelling trip to sun-baked Gobal Island skirted by topaz-blue waters and shallow reefs. Swimming into a coral-shaped bowl, my eyes widened in astonishment at the sight of a giant spinning ball of fish. In a flash, the whirling shoal split in two and I was surrounded. Great, I thought,a fish siege. I pivoted furiously trying to focus but it was useless. All I could make out were whizzing brown darts. It was thrilling stuff.
Of course, you don't need to get your feet wet to get your kicks when an adrenalin-charged quad biking safari offers just the ticket for landlubbers.
Flying over the sand between towering canyon walls at 52kph amid dense billows of dust was brain-jangling, butt-clenching fun. As the light faded and the shadows lengthened, we emerged onto a seemingly endless plain rippled with dunes. Slicing the horizon were the Eastern Desert Mountains.
Alighting from our bikes, we watched as the pale blue sky turned pinky-purple and the sun's red disc slid into the earth. It was breath-taking.
Next to me, a Belgian girl stood, enraptured. Echoing what Sawiris must have felt when he first set eyes on the area, she said, "I have lost my heart to El Gouna."
She definitely won't be the last.
* Half board prices for a standard room at the Movenpick Resort & Spa start from around £93 per night, based on two sharing. See www.elgouna.com.
* XL.com offers weekly Friday flights to Hurghada from London and Manchester. Prices departing Gatwick on September 20 lead in at £234pp. Tel: 08703207777 or visit www.XL.com.
* Dive Tribe, Moevenpick Resort & Spa. Tel. 00 20 12 241 5968 or www.divetribe.com. Prices for the sea-go start at about £28 per hour. Dive prices start from £30.
* Feeling inspired? Book a holiday
Travel Guide: Egypt
Egypt - the land for all people
Egypt is often regarded as a holiday destination for those seeking out the culture of the temples in Luxor or the Pyramids of its capital Cairo.
But the ancient country boasts many different faces, and can easily accommodate those holiday-makers in search of a sun break.
It's also hugely attractive for diving fanatics. But make sure you pick the right location for your expectations.
If Egypt is the place for culture buffs, Luxor is the highlight. It's home to the awesome Valley of the Kings on the West Bank, and the magnificent temples of Karnak and Luxor.
For those seeking a more laid back cultural trip, book a cruise down the Nile on a beautiful floating hotel.
They cruise for seven days, stopping in the early mornings to take in the sights as far down as Aswan.
Culture is all very well, but you won't be bored in the evening. There are half a dozen luxury hotels in Luxor and they are recommended for dining. The St George Sonesta is a good choice. Clubs are rare - there is one by the hotel Mercure Coralia.
Fortunately, it's easy to get around Luxor. The town is small, and hotels within walking distance. Cabs are cheap but beware - the drivers are maniacs.
Think carefully when deciding when to go. Egypt's very hot season is May to Sep when temperatures can hit 42C in Luxor and 35C in Cairo. Aim to visit in the other months - the summer heat is not advisable for those already exhausted from wandering around sites.
Travel Guide: Egypt
More relaxed than the Med
We went to Sharm in June this year staying at Ghazala Gardens and our party of four (two couples) agreed that we had the best week possible.
The people were incredibly friendly although the taxi drivers and shop owners could be perceived as pushy. But a firm, polite refusal of their services would stop their advances. The food was excellent and the hotel and excursion staff went the extra mile.
The real highlight of Sharm is beneath the sea's surface. As someone who has never been, I thought the snorkelling was mind blowing.
The coral and fish life has to be seen to be believed. Any photos that you may have seen don't do it justice. The excursions give incredible value for money - the only downside was we were were rushed at Ras Mohammed National Park due to the number of boats in the area.
Night life isn't hectic like in Med resorts. We found the Camel bar with a roof terrace had a chilled out, friendly vibe and comparable drinks prices to London.
There is also a Pacha and a Friday night rave in the mountains which both got good reviews from people who went.
Eating out is ridiculously cheap (a two course Mexican meal for four with cocktails and beers cost us £40) and the quality is very good.
We all intend to go back this winter, as we fell in love with the place.
Travel Guide: Egypt
Cairo's crazy cabbies in wacky races
Road rage, gridlock traffic, congestion charging - everyday topics in London but not in Cairo, the hot and dusty capital of Egypt.
Despite a population nearly three times as big as London, the traffic keeps on the move as drivers ignore the rule book to steer through the mayhem.
Highway Code? No way. The only code on the crazy roads of Cairo is the derring-do of the Wacky Races.
Brit Neal Jones lives in Cairo, working at new hotel Mirage City. "I could have had a driver but decided to get a car.
"There is only one rule on the road - whoever's car is in front, even by an inch, has the right of way," he says.
"I drive with my hand on the horn and foot on the gas. It's quite fun really but you must not lose your nerve. Cars are bought for their engine and brakes, not flashy bodywork," he adds.
Taking a taxi in Cairo is a ride never to be forgotten. First negotiate the fare - which is just a few pounds.
The meters have long since broken, along with the seatbelts, indicators, lights and the rest of the instruments. Unperturbed, the driver speeds off.
The drive, should you have your eyes open, is a nerve-racking dash, crossing arbitrary lanes, cutting up cars or touching bumpers just to get ahead.
Travel Guide: Egypt
A fishy encounter with Mick Jagger
Divers have long ranked Egypt's Ras Mohammed National Park as the crown jewels of the Red Sea.
My one week liveaboard holiday was a chance to find out if the region deserved its reputation. I wasn't disappointed.
After landing in Sharm el Sheik, we were transferred to the Cyclone where we met our 18 fellow passengers, dive masters Peter and Pippa, plus nine Egyptian crew. Split over three decks, the boat boasted a large restaurant, spacious cabins and sun-bathing decks. Perfect.
Our first day began with a 6.30am wake-up call, a briefing and a refresher dive. The water temperature was a moderate 22C. A manta ray was spotted by others in the group, whetting our appetite for the week ahead. The afternoon was followed by two dives at The Alternatives, including Stingray Station. I saw silvery cornet fish, a giant moray eel, wrasses as large as serving plates and a square-headed porcupine fish. Sadly no string rays.
After crossing to Abu Nuhas, a reef on the edge of a centuries-old shipping lane, we enjoyed three wreck dives – my first ever - and I was hooked.
Most impressive was the 90 metre-long Carnatica which sank in 1869 en route to India and is now encrusted with a myriad of colourful coral. But the resident marine life stole the show. They included lilac-coloured Friedman's dottybacks, transparent glass fish, plump puffer fish and a crocodile fish named after its distinct resemblance to the reptile.
The following morning, we awoke in a tranquil bay off Gubal Island where we explored Bluff Point, the Ulysses wreck and the Gardens. Crystal-clear visibility emphasised the electric greens, purples, blues, yellows, and reds of the hard and soft coral .
The marine life was also dazzling from scorpion fish with their deadly, feathery fins to parrot, angel, butterfly and clown fish, darting anthias and gobies, three turtles and a menacing-looking giant moray eel clearly peeved at our intrusion.
More drama followed on the ascent as a pod of dolphins raced behind us. Too bad I missed them – I was staring at a turtle instead.
But there was consolation later as we prepared for the final day's dive when three dolphins glided by the Cyclone. Minutes later, I was snorkelling with them entirely on my own. Magical.
The next morning dive off the Kingston wreck brought our biggest challenge. Despite warnings to avoid the razor -sharp fins of surgeon fish which are notoriously territorial, they proved to be the least of our worries.
We had barely clapped eyes on the wreck before being swept away by alarmingly strong currents. After finally regaining control of my flailing limbs, I relaxed as we hurtled along the reef at break-neck speed. It turned out to be more exhilarating than a fairground ride.
Next stop was the Thistlegorm, a World War Two vessel which sank after being attacked in 1941 by a German bomber.
We swooped down to the 15m deep prow before exploring the deck featuring two locomotives and a torpedo. Hovering in the hold, we saw motorcycles, strewn tyres and automobiles.
A night dive proved even more thrilling as the thin beam of our torches illuminated a shoal of beautiful longfin batfish, while the capstan used to weigh the ship's heavy anchors clanked eerily in the current.
A third dive of the Thistlegorm was followed by a visit to one of the most southerly sites in Ras Mohammed National Park - Yolanda Reef named after a ship which ran aground in 1981, spilling its cargo of toilets and sinks – an incongruous jumble on the seabed. Several blue spotted rays lurked nearby. A colossal-sized humphead wrasse with fleshy Mick Jagger lips sneaked up to me from behind, the biggest fish I'd seen so far.
There was much excitement on the final day as we prepared to dive Thomas Reef, in the Straits of Tiran.
"There's a chance of seeing white tips so keep your eyes on the blue," said Pippa.
It was our last opportunity to see sharks but our luck wasn't in and they remained elusive. All the more reason to return next year.
Travel Guide: Egypt
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| | | | The biblical Burning Bush
You don't have to be religious to find peace here. But you do have to adapt to the heat. This means rising early, and keeping out of the sun in the middle of the day. You also learn never to be without your kuffiyah, the checked Arab headdress which is both sun hat and a mask against sand and dust.
For three days we trekked through the ochre-coloured mountains, crossing high ridges with spectacular views, settling down for the night in some idyllic grove. Finally we reached St Catherine's Monastery at the foot of Mt Sinai, its dimly-lit interior gleaming with precious icons.
The 6th-century apse was lined with exquisite mosaics and topped by a dome of silver and gold leaf. And in the monastery courtyard stood the Burning Bush - a surprisingly ordinary looking bramble.
Sadly, St Catherine's is in danger of being swamped by day-trippers from the coast. I chatted to Father Paul from Sydney, one of the monastery's Orthodox monks.
'I don't mind visitors if they respect our customs,' he said. But later I saw him gently remonstrating with a woman leaning against the monastery's Justinian door. Twice he asked her to move, and then gave up.
Stepping out into the deep blue yonder
The next day, a friend from Cairo met us in his four-wheel-drive, which proved by far the best way to explore the desert. Together, we went to the Ras Mohammed peninsula, the national park, about 19 miles away.
Armed with a mobile phone - in case we broke down - we set out into the red hills, past camels taking a dust bath, and turned left to the Red Sea beaches where heron and sandpiper waded in the shallows. Soon, we discovered a Robinson Crusoe strip of sand so unspoiled it was footprint-free. From here we could walk onto our very own reef.
Even when you are only knee-deep, you can see spectacular sealife just by pressing your mask to the water. Suddenly, though, you come across what divers call 'the deep blue', the dramatic drop in depth where every under-water creature from tiny anchovies to dolphins, and even sharks, may be feeding, meeting and greeting.
To a beginner, this underwater world, lit only by the slanting rays of the sun, is extremely scary. You get the impression you're about to drop down deep among terrifying creatures who know their way around far better than you. Yet it is so fascinating you soon forget your fear, or that the sea's winter temperature, at 76F, is not quite as hot as you'd like it.
Back on land, there are countless pursuits to try, from quad biking to horseriding and paragliding, which can be enjoyed here for a quarter of the price than they cost in the Mediterranean; the week went by like lightning.
One outing which I was disappointed to forego was an overnight trip to Mount Sinai, in which you make the three-hour climb to the summit where Moses received the Commandments, watch the sun come up over the desert then eat breakfast at the 6th- century St Katherine's Monastery below. With winter snow still on the summit, it was not recommended. I'll just have to go back.
Haggle to your heart's content
Nile markets offer bargains from jewellery to exotic spices. How good a bargain depends on you.
Haggling is expected not just accepted. Negotiating a price acceptable to both buyer and seller is high drama and the canny shopper shouldn't set their heart on an item too obviously.
But you are unlikely to be ripped off. The phrase, 'I make a special price for you my friend', is heard everywhere.
Be aware that a Nile cruise can involve extra costs for tipping and optional excursions.
An early morning plane trip to Abu Simbel is £120 but you see the sunrise at awesome temples carved into the rockface. The coach journey is cheaper but takes four hours each way.
A dawn hot-air balloon ride over the desert adds a further £95 but is an experience not to be missed.
For a successful Nile cruise much depends on having a guide who combines knowledge with enthusiasm to bring the past to life.
Ours arranged rides on a traditional felucca boat on the river, a talk on modern Egypt and a visit to a mosque to explain the basics of Islam.
Regular calls to prayer from the minaret are a feature of everyday life and will get you up early for your day.
Sunset on the Nile
Back at our hotel we watch the sun go down across the Nile while listening to La Traviata being relayed over the terrace. Felucca sailing boats glide back to tie up for the night, sparrows twitter and buffalo graze in the reeds, while a donkey's bray occasionally floats on the evening air.
We wake next day to doves cooing and hooded crows cawing. After a delicious breakfast, we walk round the hotel kitchen garden, where rows of fennel, radish and lettuce vie with the nearby rose garden. Thirty gardeners look after a large acreage on this island where there is a small zoo including, of course, a crocodile.
On the Nile's west bank opposite Luxor is the ridge of limestone and granite hills that house the valley tombs of the kings, queens and nobles. Pretty, painted ferry boats cross the river and you land to a bustling throng of camels, donkeys, Arab ponies, bicycles and taxis all waiting to take you to the tombs.
Having chosen your transport you move off into the desert. It's worth stopping at the papyrus museum in one of the roadside villages to see the paper-making.
Close to the desert road sit the Colossi of Memnon. These two stone giants are the start to the burial grounds. Kings were buried in these secret places with all they would need in the underworld. The tombs were hidden to discourage thieves because the belief was that if the king did not go to paradise then neither did the people.
Dodging the camel rides
Our first experience of the old civilisation was of the pyramids at Giza, a short drive from our Cairo hotel with our guide Sabra.
However much you have read about the pyramids, they are more spectacular than you could imagine.
The first thing that strikes you is their size. The height of one brick alone dwarfs the tourists that mill around the base, dodging the camel rides for hire and the drowsy tourist police (everywhere with large guns).
But as you get closer to the pyramids, the feat of engineering adds to the sense of wonder.
Sabra had told us that the limestone blocks which the pyramids are made out of weigh two-and-a-half tons each. This to me was just a number until I saw how big a two-and-a-half-ton block of limestone is.
Then there is the precision of their cutting, so that each block fits snugly together with the others.
How did they do this without copper, bronze or stone tools? And then how did they get them to the top of the pyramid and fit them together? No one really knows.
The rest of our first week was taken up with visits to a number of ancient Egyptian sites. The rest, dating from around 800BC, were not as old as the pyramids which date from before 2,500BC.
We saw the tombs of the pharaohs in the Valley of the Kings, the spectacular temples at Karnak, Luxor, Esna, Philae and Aswan and finally at Abu Simbel.
All memorable in their own ways, festooned in hieroglyphics, stylised Egyptian images of Gods, pharaohs and wars and all deliciously cool inside.
Dive to the depths to see sharks
For the more adventurous, professional instructors offer beginners' courses as well as dives to the depths to view sea life including sharks and octopuses.
The Sinai region, while boasting great beaches and the Red Sea, is also home to many cultural and biblical sites.
Taking a trip to the third century St Catharine's monastery is recommended for those wishing to learn about the area's religious significance.
The site is home to the burning bush mentioned in Exodus, where God first spoke to Moses. Mount Sinai is also where he received the 10 Commandments.
The Hyatt Regency hotel in Taba Heights offers all you would need for a sun, sand and sea holiday.
While some of the food can be basic, with spag bol and buffets aplenty, the hotel's a la carte restaurants provide a welcome respite from mass catering.
Topping the list is the superb Tanour restaurant, which will indulge the tastebuds with a fine selection of Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine.
Peltours offers seven nights half board at the Hyatt Regency in Taba Heights for £449 per adult and £359 per child (2-11 years old) in August.
A trip to St Catherine's monastery costs £35 per person.
A five-day beginner's diving course at Waterworld costs £215 per person.
Contact Peltours on 020 8343 0590 or visit http://www.peltours.com
The claustrophobia of Cheops
Whatever dreams I had about my first sighting of the great pyramid of Cheops, Egypt's largest pyramid, it certainly wasn't from Cairo's equivalent of a ring road. I'd caught my first glance while snailing through the capital's traffic from the airport and, even from a plateau six miles away, it easily puts the city's concrete blocks in their place.
Up close, the two million limestone blocks of Cheops inspire open-mouthed vertigo. Unlike at the Step Pyramid, you can go inside to the barren burial chamber, unusually located at the pyramid's heart rather than in an underground vault. It's frankly terrifying and not for the claustrophobic or anyone with breathing problems, but it does inspire respect for the mysterious Ka as unspeakable tons of limestone press down protectively on you.
Emerge into the sunlight and you conclude correctly that pyramids are no place for the living. I was content to view the pyramids of Chephren and Mycerinus from the safety of a camel, marvelling at how small the Sphinx looked alongside.
The Giza pyramids mark the effective end of the pyramid age, just 200 or so years from Imhotep's breakthrough. Although inferior examples were sporadically built until the 18th Dynasty, by then their colossal manpower demands had inspired another revolution - the organisation of the first political state.
Although Imhotep has been credited with other architectural achievements, including Sekhemkhet's unfinished pyramid and the first temple at Edfu, his work at Saqqara is the only certainty. However, his influence can be seen all the way down the Nile to Abu Simbel.
A short flight from Cairo lies Luxor, once the epicentre of Thebes, the New Kingdom capital a thousand years after King Zoser. Here I wandered through the temples of Luxor and Karnak, looking for the 'hand of the mummy' in the papyrus-topped columns, intricate stonework and obelisks, which carried the pyramidal symbol on through Egyptian civilisation.
A mix of fast food and history
The main draw of Egypt's capital Cairo is the Pyramids. It's a shock to find that they and the nearby Sphinx are on the edge of Giza city - disquietingly opposite a KFC. A true melting pot.
Don't leave the city without visiting Cairo Museum, most notably the room hosting Tutankhamen's antiquities.
Relax by dining on a boat restaurant such as the Blue Nile, which looks on to the bustling modern city.
If you're looking for a lazy break, Sharm el Sheikh is the place for you.
The Sinai peninsula resort is small and low-key. Its generous share of two/three-star hotels and satisfying outdoor eateries will suit you.
Sharm is located on the Red Sea, an ideal location for a diving break. It's a stunning spot for keen snorkellers, too. A full-day boat journey with three swims costs just £30 and is idyllic.
If it's a drinking holiday you want, Sharm is also the place. Among its myriad of eateries are bars such as Pirates, where you can mingle with locals.
But be aware that these close relatively early (1am). Ibiza it's not.
If you want to flavour the lifestyle of the Egyptians visit Luxor. Laze in one of the smoking cafes, wander around the bazaars and sample the refreshing traditional teas.
Locals will badger you to buy their wares. Don't lose your temper with them. Smile and firmly repeat no.
You must tip everyone, down to the toilet attendants. One Egyptian pound (20p) will suffice.
Cover up against the full blast sun.
Contact the Egyptian Tourist Authority http://www.touregypt.net or 0900 1600 299. Libra Holidays 0870 066 4802 for info.
Donkeys trot alongside
As you race through the city on its puzzle of roads and fly-overs it is, surprisingly, a fitting way to see a city crammed with 20 million people. The noise, fumes, dust and heat all add to the blurred picture of a sprawling city where everyone seems on the move.
Slums heaped on top of each other next to crumbling but majestic buildings give glimpses of life in the city.
There seems to be a lot of men busy standing around while others try to clean the streets with pieces of card.
Everywhere satellite dishes poke out of unfinished roofs. Washing is strung from windows to dry in the fumes. Buses crammed with passengers heave alongside donkey carts laden with fruit or veg.
From the road you pass the huge City of the Dead where a vast number of people live alongside their dead relatives in above-ground tombs.
Rising above the city is the landmark Citadel - a collection of mosques, palaces and museums.
You won't see the Pyramids on your taxi ride as they're on the edge of the city but you are sure to cross one of the many bridges over the restful Nile.
Despite its hectic pace, Cairo isn't the city that never sleeps. Sneak out at 6am and the madcap roads are empty. But then the city has lost its edge.
It comes alive with the swarms of people, car horns and the wail of the many mosques calling people to prayer.
Cairo may be chaos but it works and is a city full of energy that must be experienced and savoured. Preferably from the back seat of a cab.
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| | | | Revelation in the desert
Later that day, our camel train arrived for the last stage of the journey. Riding a camel for the first time is a jolt - literally. You hop onto the wooden saddle, and then find yourself jerked forward and upwards, as if on a forklift truck as the camel gets to its feet.
Our riding companions were members of the Muzeina tribe, led by Sheikh Hamid. He took the lead as we plodded behind, sun beating down on one side, a dusty wind coming from the other, our kuffiyahs shielding us from both.
We crossed the old trading route between Jerusalem and St Catherine's, and the shingly plains gave way to sand, with rock formations rising up like fortresses. The light changed from red to gold, and the camels' shadows lengthened below us.
The Sheikh called a halt. We tied up the camels, and sat quietly as evening descended and light and colour seeped from the day. No sound. No birds or wild animals. No people. Bliss.
Over dinner of shakshuka vegetable stew, the Sheikh talked of the changes tourism had brought to Sinai. 'Before, we had less money but life was quieter.' But he was a desert Bedouin and, Insh' Allah (God willing), would live nowhere else. The mountains were 'too cold'; the coast 'too noisy'. He laughed, and spat in the fire. Slipping off after dinner, I spent so much time looking up at the stars that I forgot where I was. For a while I wandered in circles. No campfire to be seen; no voices. I seemed lost.
Then I remembered the desert has little to harm you. Snakes and scorpions are unlikely to attack unless provoked. The night was warm; the stars beautiful; why not just stretch out on the ground and sleep?
Which I did. Then I heard a shout, saw a light, and made my way back to camp. But it had been something of a revelation, in a land famous for them. Far from being lost in the desert, if anything I'd been found.
A Nubian village
The Temple of Queen Hatshepsut is impressively well restored. Regimented columns on two levels are built against the rock side with a long flight of steps leading up to the central entrance.
My husband is running in the Luxor marathon and the race starts and finishes here at Queen Hatshepsut's temple. He not only survives the race in the gruelling heat, but comes second in his class. I am very proud.
After two days of sand we are happy to drive with our guide through the lush green farms of the east bank. Sugar cane, sweet-corn and wheat are the main crops and the irrigation channels make for strong growth.
We visit a Nubian village, where a museum house portrays daily life. The Nubians were moved to the area when the Aswan dam was built and their villages flooded.
Back in town we visit the Luxor Museum. I really recommend seeing the way it presents the statues and carvings, painted coffins and other artefacts from the tombs.
Behind the museum is a labyrinth of streets, with shops selling fruit and veg, spices and rose petals plus pigeons, ducks and chickens.
You can't help noticing how friendly and easy it is here, and how life has a leisurely pace, with time to sit out and watch the world go by.
Travel facts Egypt Air (0207 734 2343) operates a weekly direct service from London Heathrow to Luxor. Bales Worldwide (0870 241 3212) offers tailor-made holidays to Egypt.
Very Death On The Nile
I think one of the visits I enjoyed the most was in Aswan, where we visited the granite quarry.
Here, there is a huge obelisk half cut out of the granite, but work stopped when it cracked. This vast monolith, cut out by a combination of primitive tools, fire and water, still lies where it was left 3,000 years ago. How they were going to transport it hundreds of miles to Luxor is a mystery to me.
You don't have to be an expert, or even a would-be expert, to enjoy these trips.
The buildings give an enormous sense of how long human civilisation had been in existence and how skilled folk were so many years ago. A sobering thought.
For most of the sightseeing we were housed on the boat, Oberoi Philae. A luxurious river boat hotel, decorated in romantic Edwardian style (very Death On The Nile, darling) with an accommodating crew.
I estimate there are hundreds of such boats cruising up and down the Nile, of varying costs and quality.
The Oberoi, we learned, was one of the best and you couldn't ask for a more comfortable and relaxing way of experiencing the beautiful Nile river and the sights along the way.
When we left the boat we enjoyed more romantic accommodation, staying in two former royal palaces of King Farouk (the last king of Egypt) now converted to hotels.
The Old Cataract Hotel, in Aswan, and the Old Winter Palace, in Luxor, both have splendidly proportioned rooms, and the air of a bygone age of elegance.
Our last three days were at the Ritz Carlton in Sharm el Sheikh, relaxing on the Red Sea.
Sharm el Sheikh sits at the end of the Sinai desert looking out on to the Red Sea, a scuba diver's paradise they tell me.
The Ritz Carlton is probably the best hotel there. The service is excellent, the pool enormous and ending the day with a massage was perfect.
A great end to an amazing holiday.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Cox and Kings Travel (http://www.coxandkings.co.uk tel: 0207 873 5000) offers a range of holidays to Egypt.
In the Valley of the Kings
In Upper Egypt, the desert rays of Ra can quickly burn you raw, so sightseeing is restricted to mornings and balmy evenings, when the illuminated temples are especially beautiful. To visit the Valleys of the Kings and Queens on the west bank, prepare to rise early - by 10am the dusty roads are congested with tourist buses.
Here, in an attempt to stop grave robbing, the kings and queens of the 18th to 20th Dynasties built their tombs underground and, in comparison with the pyramids, the outward pomp and circumstance is minimal. Yet look up and you see that they lie at the base of a sacred pyramid-shaped mountain.
Of the 132 royal valley tombs only a small number are open at any one time and, unlike the claustrophobia of the pyramid chambers, they seem positively open-plan and cheery. The dryness of the desert has preserved their beautiful, highly-coloured wall paintings, depicting deities whose help they wanted on the journey to meet Osiris.
Also on the walls is written the so-called Book Of The Dead, giving advice on how to deal with dangers on the journey to judgment. Tombs with a hint of showbiz about them include that of the other celebrity mummy, Tutankhamun, and the recently opened resting place of Queen Nefertari, whose wall paintings are so vivid they might have been painted overnight.
On my return to Cairo, I stopped off at the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities to see the mummified bodies of 11 kings, queens and princesses plucked from their tombs. Perfectly preserved, with teeth, fingernails, hair and facial expressions, they are the museum's most prized exhibits.
Yet, for me, the star turn belonged to the modest, wide-eyed statue of Imhotep, the most famous mummy of them all, tucked away in the corner of a cabinet enjoying a well-earned moment of rest.
Travel facts: Bales Worldwide offers a range of holidays to Egypt, including nine-day fully escorted 'Treasures of the Nile' tours. Tel: 0870 241 3212
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