Travel Guides: All Countries / Middle East / Israel
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| | | | Winter sun on the Red Sea
As a holiday destination, many people remain wary of Israel because of the political tensions.
Yet Eilat, situated at the country's southernmost tip, has over the last 20 years developed into a popular winter sun resort, as far removed from the troubled West Bank as you can get.
Eilat provides a good variety of luxury and self-catering accommodation, plus US-style shopping malls and facilities.
Located on the banks of the Red Sea, Eilat is a reliable winter sun resort, with an average temperature of 24C/76F during the season.
It is a five-hour flight from London Heathrow, with weekly flights provided by Israel's ultra security-conscious international airline El Al.
As well as the sun, the region offers plenty of opportunities for scuba diving, snorkelling and desert tours.
The hidden beauty of the region undoubtedly lies at the bottom of the Gulf of Eilat.
Here, the semi-tropical climate has created an environment rich in coral and marine life.
As well as snorkelling and scuba diving, this underwater world can be explored by visiting the Underwater Observatory Marine Park, which boasts a submarine.
The local marine life can also be viewed from one of the glass-bottomed boats which regularly cruise the Gulf of Eilat. Another water attraction is the Dolphin Reef, where visitors can observe the dolphins at close quarters and help their trainers feed them.
Israel: Travel guide
Unforgettable experience
My wife and I visited Eilat in February 2001 and stayed at the Palmyra Hotel. We were amazed at the clean streets and also the fact that one does not wait long for a taxi. There is one cruising by almost every five-10 minutes.
The weather at that time of the year was approx 26/29c but nights were somewhat cooler.
We also took in an arranged tour from Eilat to Cairo and visited the museum, papyrus institute, the pyramids at Giza, night cruise down the Nile and the bazaar and all in all was an unforgettable experience.
The Palmyra Hotel upgraded our stay to half-board and the food (on a serve-yourself basis) was better than dining in a five star hotel. Take US dollars which are in great demand and easily changed by the numerous bureaux de changes/banks/hotels etc
For the traveller with extra cash to spend you can visit the diamond factories and buy stones at 20/35% cheaper than at Hatton Garden.
Israel: Travel guide
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| | | | No fun on Eilat's beaches
Despite the impressive sealife and diving opportunities, the beaches in Eilat are a major disappointment.
Although within easy reach, most are very short and can easily become crowded. Many consist of mainly stone and gravel, rather than sand.
By way of compensation, the hotels and apartment complexes are all located by large, landscaped outdoor pools with excellent sunbathing facilities.
Alternatives to Eilat's sun and sea pursuits mean safaris or shopping.
Situated just outside Eilat is a rather tacky Texas Ranch. Originally built as the set of a cowboy film, it now offers camel treks and jeep safaris. However, a problem in the winter time is that the sun sets before 5pm.
In the centre of Eilat is a large US-style mall, while most of the hotels sell internationally branded goods.
As a winter sun resort, Eilat is a dependable destination providing a safe and relaxed environment.
But it is not perfect. Compared to other winter sun destinations, it can be expensive with prices often comparable to London.
The service culture, or lack of it, is also an issue. Hotel staff can seem unhelpful and even simple requests might prove too much.
The only time Middle Eastern politics becomes an issue is at airports.
A downside to the tight security is the possibility of interrogation, especially if your passport has an Egyptian or other Middle-Eastern stamp.
Order an El Al Superstar Holiday brochure on 0870 7270435. A seven-night stay (B&B) at Isrotel's King Solomon's Palace costs from £511pp.
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 |  | Destination Guide : Israel |
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| | | Religious history |  | Why go on holiday to Israel? If you go without preconceptions, you're likely to leave with happy memories. Religious history is a vital part of Israel but not the only reason to visit the country. There are lakes, oases, mountains, a rift valley, coastline and coral reefs to explore.
Israel can also offer you glitz and glam in Tel Aviv and Eilat. The Gaza Strip and West Bank give you a taste of Palestinian life and Arabic culture. But be aware of the tensions in the region and check Foreign Office advice before booking.
How much does it cost? You can get some great bargains out of season to Israel. A one-week holiday to Eilat in November can be found from around £300 if you're lucky. In season expect to pay around £500 for the same trip. Flights cost from £200 upwards for a 12-month open return.
When should I go? Whatever time of year you visit will be pleasant, although it can be very cold at night - especially in Jerusalem, which is in the highlands (and can be rainy too). Summer averages 70-100F (20-38C), winter averages 60-70F (15-23C).
Unless your reason for going is a major Jewish, Muslim, or Christian event, these dates might be best avoided as the pilgrimage sites get uncomfortably crowded and accommodation prices soar.
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| | | Magical mineral sea | | What should I do when I'm there? Sightseeing, scuba diving, swimming with dolphins, beach-bumming. This is a great country for hiking. For horse riding try the riding centres around Galilee and Golan.
For swimming, best head to Tel Aviv or Eilat where you'll be able to windsurf, waterski, sail and party. For an extraordinary diving experience, visit Caesarea, where you can dive the ruins of Herod's city.
The Dead Sea is an experience you'll never forget as you float in this water packed full of minerals that cleanse your skin as you relax your mind. Head out to the Negev desert to see stunning landscapes. You can even ski in the Golan at Mount Hermon.
Where's all the history? Everywhere you look will be a place of ancient worship or importance. In Jerusalem, the winding streets of the Old City are charming, uncomfortably busy during religious festivals, packed with historical sites, bazaars and resident prophets.
Tel Aviv's Yemenite quarters and Neve Tzedek districts offer a different kind of history. Ramallah is a sophisticated and hip West Bank town that was once a favourite resort with wealthy Jordanians - whilst there, also visit Nablus and Jericho.
Haifa is dominated by the Baha-I Shrine of the Bab, sits next to the ruins of Caesarea and the ancient Arabic town of Old Akko. Visit Safed, on a mountain in Galilee, or the lively, vibrant town of Nazareth.
Make Tiberias your base to explore the monasteries, churches and tombs in the Galilee. Masada - potent symbol of ancient Jewish resistance - is next to the Dead Sea.
What about natural wonders? Hula Valley, a unique wetlands wildlife sanctuary near the Golan mountains, is home to jungle cats. The impressive Rosh HaNikra sea caves can be reached from Haifa town.
White water raft down the Jordan River, relax on the eastern shores of the Sea of Galilee, and hike around the Golan Heights. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on the surface of the Earth, from which Ein Gedi - a lush oasis in the arid Judean desert - can be reached.
In the Negev desert the Maktesh Ramon crater is eerie and wild, whilst off Eilat you can see the fabulous Red Sea coral reefs and the Hai-Bar Arava Biblical Wildlife Reserve.
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| | | Vibrant cities | | Where's good for nightlife? Tel Aviv is the nightlife city in Israel, having the best bars, restaurants, cafes and clubs. Hang out around Dizengoff Square and the seafront. Also good for people-watching is Old Jaffa. Tel Aviv is also Israel's gay centre with many gay bars and clubs.
Eilat is the other big nightlife centre - it is just a non-stop carnival. In Jerusalem there are many bars and cafes, but not in the most religious areas.
The Underground in Zion Square is the most popular spot and Yoel Salomon and Rivlin Streets are lined with late-night bars. The Sultan's Pool in Jerusalem is a fabulous outdoor venue - check in the Post for listings.
What's the food like? Judaism's Kosher laws ensure that Israel is great for vegetarians - dairy-only restaurants mean no meat. North European Jewish food such as schnitzel, goulash, gefilte fish and blintzes are common and can be delicious - albeit heavy.
Sephardic Jewish food such as shaslik and kebab meats, humus, stuffed vegetables, spiced rice and spiced offal dishes are justly famous, and are similar to Middle Eastern/Eastern Mediterranean cookery.
Falafel, salads, fava beans, grilled meat, shwarma and mansaf (rice and meat - like pilaff or biriani) are all common Palestinian foods served with flat breads. Sweetmeats and pastries soaked in honey and dribbled with butter are irresistible.
What should I buy? Israel is full of shops filled with tacky souvenirs - which are fun - but there are also many lovely things to buy, especially in markets and smaller boutiques.
For bargains be patient and haggle, but don't be aggressive as this misses the point. Haggling should be fun for all; of course it helps if you understand bluffing, but not if you're intent on angrily huffing.
You'll be able to find a lot of beautiful ceramics in the Old City of Jerusalem. Experience the Camel Market in Tel Aviv. In Beersheba on Thursday head for the Bedouin market - the southern part is where you'll find authentic Bedouin goods.
What is there for children to do? There are many superb sights, including the Israel Museum - if your kids like this kind of outing then Israel may be for them.
If they want to splash in a pool then Eilat may be suitable - although it is more renowned as a kind of Ibiza on the Red Sea than as a family resort.
Check with your resort hotel for kiddie facilities, otherwise think hard - although distances are short in Israel it can be hot, crowded and perhaps a bit scary for little ones. For older children, staying on a kibbutz can create life-long friendships.
Tourist office Israel Government Tourist Office, 180 Oxford Street, London, W1D 1NN. Tel. 020 7299 1111.
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 |  | Fact File : Israel |
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| | | Israel | | Did you know? There are sites in Jerusalem that Jews, Christians and followers of Islam hold sacred - which explains why it's one of the most fought-over places on earth.
Language Hebrew, Arabic and English.
Visas No visa required for UK residents for a stay of up to three months.
Getting there The main airport is Ben-Gurion, east of Tel Aviv and 50km from the capital Jerusalem. Ovda, the other international airport, is 60km north of Eilat and is used mainly by charter flights taking holidaymakers to the Red Sea resort. Flights go from most major UK airports.
Flying time from London About five hours.
Getting around Internal flights are pricey and, as Israel is tiny, flying may not be cost effective. Flights connect Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Haifa, Rosh Pina, Kiryat Shmona and Eilat. Buses are a great way to get about - the roads are excellent and bus passes can save you money. In Nazareth, East Jerusalem and the West Bank, Arab bus services tend to be dilapidated so it's better to use a sherut (service taxi). Trains are cheaper than buses but inconvenient due to location of stations and a tiny network. The main line is Haifa-Tel Aviv, and for this journey or the journey to Akko or Nahariya the train is the best. Hire cars are good for seeing the Negev and Golan, but make sure you hire a car with Palestinian plates if going into Palestinian areas - and vice versa - because stone throwing is not unheard of if you have the "wrong plates".
Currency New Israeli shekel or shekelim or "sheks". Each shekel is divided into 100 agorot.
Costs As a guide expect to pay: Litre of petrol 70p; bottle of beer £2-£3; moderate restaurant meal for two with wine £15-£25.
Weather Whatever time of year you visit will be pleasant although it can get very cold at night, especially in Jerusalem, which is in the highlands and can be rainy too. Summer averages 20-38C (70-100F); winter averages 15-23C (60-70F)
Time difference Two hours ahead of GMT.
International dialling code from the UK 00 972, plus 2 for Jerusalem and Bethlehem; plus 7 for Eilat; plus 3 for Tel Aviv.
Voltage 220V, 50Hz. Bring an adaptor for UK appliances, as they're expensive in Israel.
Opening hours On Shabbat (the Jewish Sabbath) all Israeli shops, offices and places of entertainment close. Shabbat starts at sundown Friday and ends at sundown Saturday. You will need to plan for Shabbat in advance as travel is difficult, food is hard to buy and money can't be changed. Muslim businesses open on Saturday but are closed all day Friday; Christian businesses shut on Sunday. Otherwise, business hours are from 8am-1pm and 4-7pm Mon-Thurs and Friday from 8am-2pm. Banking hours: Sunday to Tuesday and Thursday from 8.30am-12.30pm and 4-5.30pm and on Wednesday, Friday and eves of holy days from 8.30am to noon. In Nazareth, banks open Friday and Saturday morning but close on Sunday.
Health - Before you go No vaccinations needed; no major health hazards. Make sure you have adequate travel insurance as the UK has no reciprocal agreements with Israel on health treatment.
Health - When you are there In an emergency dial 911 for an English-speaking operator, or call the medical tourist helpline: 177-022 9110. Doctors and hospitals in Israel generally expect immediate cash payment for health services, which will usually be excellent. Make sure your travel insurance covers these payments.
Warnings Peace is fragile here, so keep an eye on the news and check with the Foreign Office on 020 7238 4503/4 (http://www.fco.gov.uk/travel) before you go. Tell people where you are going if travelling solo. Palestinians are not hostile to anyone non-Israeli, but if you are a Zionist, keep your opinions to yourself in mainly Palestinian areas, and vice-versa. In the Golan Heights, some areas are sealed off with barbed wire fences and warning signs because they are full of unexploded land mines. Don't ignore these warnings. Be sensible.
Emergency Health emergency - dial 911 for an English-speaking operator, or call the medical tourist helpline: 177-022 9110. Dial 100 for police. British Embassy in Tel Aviv: 192 HaYarkon Street, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 544 0250. In Jerusalem: 19 Nashashhibi St, Sheikh Jarrah, East Jerusalem. Tel: 02 582 8281. In Eilat: 14 Tsofit Villas, Eilat. Tel: 07 372 344.
Customs Try not to offend anyone when talking about whether it should be called Palestine or Israel. None of the three big religions are keen on alcohol, dancing or sexually explicit behaviour, so be considerate in religious districts or smaller towns and villages. Keep to Tel Aviv or Eilat if you want to wear skimpy clothes and snog in public. Remember that many of the sights are profoundly sacred places; act accordingly.
Pets Israel is not part of the Passport for Pets scheme, so pets would have to spend six months in quarantine on their return.
Tipping Not so long ago it was not expected, but today most bills state: "Service Not Included". At your discretion.
Tourist office Israel Government Tourist Office, 180 Oxford Street, London, W1D 1NN. Tel. 020 7299 1111.
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 |  | Available rental properties in Israel |
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