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 |  | Travel Reviews : Kefalonia |
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| | | | Review by member Featherstone from Washington, D.C.
I have been to Kephalonia three times in the past 10 years:the scenery and relaxed atmosphere are hard to beat. However, since my last visit, it is noticeable how the Greeks are ruining a lovely isalnd. Villas, presumably for rent to tourists, are being built in every nook and cranny of the coast. As an avid photographer, I noticed how increasingly difficult it is becoming to take a shot without new construction intruding into the frame. This is sad, and self-defeating. There is no doubt that in a few, short years, the price of oil will rise exponentially, air travel will be limited for environmental reasons, the tourists will be gone, and Kephalonia will be ruined.
Review by Jude Teesdale from York
Kefalonia is a diverse island with a little of something for everbody. Our favourite is the North of the island which still remains largely unspoilt although Fiscardo is becoming a bit upmarket, no doubt due to some of the fantastic yachts which call in to enjoy the restaurants. Just outside the town however it is still possible to find authentic greek food in restaurants where you can sit a the waters edge and whatch the sunset - a real Shirley Valnetine moment - and not only is the food excellent it is so much cheaper than in the town.
The locals are friendly and helpful and love it when you try to speak Greek even encouraging you by coaching you with new words and phrases.
If you want a beach holiday with entertainment then stay in the South, there is no sand in the north just little pebble coves many of which can only be accessed by boat.
Review by Patricia Forrest from Coldstream
Kefalonia is a truly beautiful island with lots of history and very friendly people. There are stunning beaches, some busier than others and all have their own charm. Argostoli is a sophisticated town, a little unexpected on such an unspoiled island, there are plenty of quality shops and lots of bars and restaurants. Argostoli also has museums and gardens that are all worth a visit. Assos is a beautiful village on a stunning bay and well worth the drive down, just look out for the herds of goats and cows roaming the roads on the way! A trip over to Lixouri on the ferry is good fun and there are some good places to eat and drink there too, a coffee in the square watching the world go by is hard to beat.Petani beach has the best value taverna that we found with the most delicious food and a lovely setting.
Review by David Woodward from Southport
Excellent website, booking system and feedback process!!
Review by Samantha Meakin from London
I've been to 6 Greek Islands and Kefalonia is by far the quietest! It's perfect if you're looking for a place to do some serious relaxing and to really unwind from the stresses and strains of life. It also feels more 'Greek', as you don't get the 'English Breakfast' and 'English Pub' signs everywhere which I've come to dislike. Beautiful beaches, unspolit views and friendly people make this one of the nicest Islands I've been to.
Review by Hazel Heywood from Manchester
We were surprised how green Kefalonia was. Stunning scenery wherever we went. Easy to get around, safe and no one bothered us at all. Can't wait to go back and see some more of the beautiful island.
Review by Andrew Bernhardt from LONDON
We explored the northern area around Fiscardo. Essentially it felt as if there was one very winding coast road with spectacular views leading to Fiscardo. The port itself is busy with a plethora of restaurants of varying quality though common sense dictates that by avoiding the waterside sites and exploring a little further back there are some great places to eat. The boat hire was briliiant and enabled us (non sailors) to get across to Ithaca and safely explore coves for swimming and snorkeling: octopus, sea slugs and an absurdly over equipped Italian skin diver complete with huge harpoon vainly trying to spear tiny minnows -education and comedy all thrown in.
Review by Theoni Vazouras from Athens Greece
Kefalonia is a large island so a car is needed. It is a beautiful green island with some amazing beaches so it is definately worth exploring. All the roads are sealed but can be very windy. One of the must see beaches is Myrtos Beach, the road is a single lane road with no barriers but take it slow up and down and the view is definately worth it. There are sand beaches on the island such as Skala, Mounda, Platis Yialos and Anti Sami and they are all worth the trip to. Fiscardo is at the Northern part of the island and is a fishing village for the most part, there are very few beaches up this end of the island that are easily accessible. Fiscardo is frequented by plenty of rich and famous who can dock their yachts in the port and hop out and eat at one of the many tavernas that line the port. Still a must to see. I have fallen in love with the island and hope to return time and time again.
Review by Bryan Moiser from Beverley
Having been to numerous Greek islands I can vouch for the fact that this is one of the most beautiful and peaceful. If you want a frantic night life then Kefalonia isn't for you, but if you enjoy stunning scenary and a huge variety of clean beaches with crystal clear water then you won't be disappointed.
7 days was just the right amount of time for me and my teenage entourage to tour, tan and chill out. Maybe it's the value of the Euro, but it was quieter than other islands I have been to. Maybe Kefalonia is a well kept secret so enjoy it but don't tell everyone or they might spoil it!
Review by visitor
Really liked Kefalonia - definitely will return but perhaps when it is warmer as mid to late oct weather was windy. Must see: Lake Malassani, and the beautiful beaches along the coast, just take a drive and stop at each of them.
A cut above the rest
I had never even heard of Kefalonia until my husband surprised me with a holiday there for my 40th birthday. What a gorgeous place!
We had been to several other Greek islands, all of which were lovely but I have to say that this island has the edge.
It's not for those wanting bright lights and nightlife. It's more for couples wanting a relaxing time with enough tavernas to be able to eat in a different place every night for a week and still have some choice.
The whole way of life there is laid-back but the locals are friendly and welcoming. We stayed in Katelios which is beautiful, quiet and warm.
I would go back tomorrow. There's lots of places to visit if you wish to wander further afar but if you are looking for a relaxing holiday then Kefalonia is for you.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Wonderful friendly island
A wonderful friendly island. Hire transport and get away from the main centres.
I went twice before the Italian and his mandolin. I'm going again this year to see what changes have happened.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Slow road to a perfect beach
From the Daily Mail
We'd hardly had time to settle onto the transfer bus from Kefalonia airport to the small resort of Scala where we were staying when the tour company rep jumped up. Handing me a welcome party invitation, she said: 'There's a music bar opposite where you're staying, I'm sure you'll want to get in there straight away.' Peaceful, pretty Kefalonia expects families, thirtysomethings and couples as its visiting guests. And largely, that's what it gets.
They don't expect three slightly hysterical, twentysomething girlies. Wouldn't we rather be on Zante - our livelier, neighbouring island - the locals wondered? No, no and no again. We wanted a quiet week somewhere beautiful, and Kefalonia fitted the bill. The biggest of the Ionian Islands, it is also the most unspoilt.
The island is a collection of coastal villages circumnavigating the huge Mount Enos that dominates the island, a patchwork of olive groves and fields saturated with poppies and dandelions - disturbed only by tiny, winding roads linking the villages. The main street of our village, Scala, was lined with simple tavernas, pretty garden bars and a few souvenir shops and supermarkets. No throbbing clubs, pubs or other horrors. Lovely.
Unfortunately, what Scala didn't have a lot of was atmosphere and, to an extent, that's true of most of Kefalonia. Levelled by an earthquake in the Fifties, the island has many new buildings that bear little relation to the traditional Greek architecture and fishing village charm common to most islands. Only the village of Fiskardo, on the island's northern tip, retains any original architecture.
But the beaches are where Kefalonia scores. Staying somewhere as small as Scala means a change of scenery - and a hire car is essential if you want to get out and about. But as roads are narrow and speed limits restricted to 40mph, it can take a while to get around. So we started off nearer home - the small village of Lourdas, with golden sand and rolling waves, and the tiny, almost Caribbean beaches of Kourkomelata and Avithos.
On the last day we ventured further to the port of Sami and the neighbouring beach of Anti-sami. Although a three-hour drive, Anti-sami proved worth it - a long strip of sand shaped like a crescent moon, backed by lush green mountains that encircled the sea. Beaches like this no longer officially exist - no sign of tourism, no cafe or toilets, just the clearest azure water and the blissful feeling that comes from being surrounded by unspoilt natural beauty.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Nothing is too much trouble
We had a lovely relaxing holiday. Nothing is too much trouble for the people on this island. Meals were excellent - we ate Greek food, of course.
The most amazing thing was that there is no crime on Kefalonia. It seemed strange not to carry everything with us (including our cash). Bars are also plentiful and very, very good. Beaches also are something else. We would recommend Kefalonia to anybody.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Lovely and laid-back
We stayed at Scala, a quiet, pretty resort with a backdrop of green hills on the southern tip of the island. The sand and shingle beach is clean, with parasols and sunshades costing about £5 for two all day.
The water is lovely and clear, although there was a fair bit of seaweed at one end and the shingle shelves quite steeply at some points, so it's not suitable for very small children.
Scala has lots of good tavernas and a few shops plus the bonus of the remains of a Roman villa in an old olive grove - lovely. There are a few hotels, but it's mainly self-catering here.
We hired a car and drove round the island in a day. We loved the pretty harbour front at Sami and visited the nearby Melissani Lake (a bit touristy, but fun) and the Drogarati Cave (lots of steps and people).
Fiskardo, at the northern end, has some lovely restaurants and you can watch the posh yachts come in as you eat - fantastic ice cream parlour here, too! Myrtos Beach was dramatic (as is all the coastline on this side of the island) but is a long drive down and lots of flies at dusk made the idea of staying for sunset rather unappealing.
Had a meal on the harbour front at Argostoli on the way back. Unremarkable, but this is more of a working town than a resort.
Took the ferry from Sami to Ithaca - a beautiful, unspoilt island. Especially loved the little port of Kioni and the spectacular harbour at Vathy, but a car is vital to get around.
Food on Kefalonia was great - plenty of traditional Greek dishes and quite a few vegetarian options. Best local wine is the dry white Robola. A lovely, laid-back island!
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Captain Corelli's Kefalonia
From the Mail on Sunday
The elderly Greeks rub their eyes in disbelief. They left the island of Kephallonia in 1953, when a devastating earthquake flattened towns and villages. They saw their homes destroyed and Argostoli, the capital, levelled.
Now, half a century later, they emerge on to the decks of the arriving ferry and discover that their home town has spectacularly resurrected itself from the rubble. The column-fronted courtroom and the Venetian-style villas that crumbled to dust - all have reappeared after an absence of nearly 50 years.
It's only when the passengers have disembarked that they discover the cause of this wonder. This fine old town is a masterful illusion, a conjuring trick of the eye, that is held together with nothing more than scaffolding, bolts and epoxy resin.
'Camera . . . and ACTION.' Actor Nicolas Cage struts across the set clutching a bulbous stringed instrument and the British film crew spring to work. I watched all this happening last May, when Captain Corelli's Mandolin - the film version of Louis de Bernieres' best-selling novel - was being filmed on the Ionian island of Kefalonia.
The movie has been produced by Working Title - the company that made Notting Hill, Elizabeth and Four Weddings And A Funeral - and when it opens next month looks certain to be the year's biggest hit. Cage is playing Corelli, Penelope Cruz is his lover, while John Hurt plays the irascible but caring father in this epic tale of love and brutality, set amid the Italian occupation of Greece during the Second World War.
The story is beautifully told. The irrepressible Corelli - an eccentric Italian soldier with a passion for the mandolin - at first infuriates the village doctor, Iannis, whose home he is occupying. But as the doctor starts to appreciate his exuberant personality, so Corelli falls head-over-heels in love with his daughter, Pelagia.
The fighting draws ever closer; storm clouds gather. When Italy switches allegiance the Nazis land on Kefalonia and vow to slaughter every Italian on the island.
Those terrible war years were one of the darkest periods of Kefalonia's troubled history and were - until recently - as unknown to the outside world as the island itself. Tourists flocked in their thousands to nearby Corfu, but Kefalonia remained unspoiled and largely unvisited, a quiet backwater in the Ionian sea.
But this scretive and spectacularly beautiful island may not be able to hide its charms for much longer. Tourism is on the increase, and a large influx is expected after the release of the film.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Captain Corelli: Loved the book, like the island
From the Mail on Sunday
Kefalonia, a small, rocky island in the Ionian Sea, has never loomed large in the British consciousness. Until, that is, the publication of Louis de Bernieres' novel, Captain Corelli's Mandolin.
The book describes the romance between Pelagia, a local doctor's daughter, and Captain Corelli, a captain in the Italian army, and is mainly set during the Italian occupation of Kefalonia during the Second World War. The book remains on the bestseller lists four years after publication, and is even featured in the screen romance between Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts in the film Notting Hill.
The physical world which de Bernieres describes has been almost completely destroyed, as a cataclysmic earthquake razed the island to rubble in 1953. But has the spirit of true romance and courage remained on the island? Or have the islanders been corrupted by their newfound fame? I went to Greece to find out.
On the charter flight out of Gatwick, I began to suspect that my fellow holidaymakers might not be committed Corelli fans. The lads sitting behind me, who had clearly taken advantage of their local tanning facilities before they came out, were complaining loudly about the selection of duty-free cigarettes.
At the tiny airport terminal, the conveyor belt was jammed with crown green bowling bags. I assume most of the flight's passengers were bound for Lassi, Kefalonia's mass-market tourist resort. I was heading for the small town of Fiskardo, on the other side of the island.
Fiskardo is little more than a village, a cluster of pink-shuttered, whitewashed houses built around a small harbour. It looks much as it would have done 50 years ago, because it was the only village left standing after the earthquake.
All the buildings here are founded on solid rock, which protected them from the worst of the tremors. The smallness and simplicity of Fiskardo belie its sophistication. The yachts moored in the harbour must cost £1 million a year to run. It's just as well that the food is so good in Fiskardo, as there is little to do in the village but eat and gaze across the harbour at nearby Ithaca.
Early in the season, most of Fiskardo's visitors are British, but later in the summer the main tourist traffic comes from neighbouring Italy. The local businesses earn enough from rich Italians during August to stay empty for the rest of the year.
The restaurants along the harbour, although inexpensive by British standards, are light years better than the Greek average. Particularly enjoyable is the eccentric atmosphere of Nicholas's Fish Restaurant overlooking the harbour. The walls of the restaurant are covered in newspaper reviews, most of which focus upon the 'colourful' character of Nicholas rather than the food.
The meal, however, was probably the best Greek cuisine I've experienced outside Athens, and even the Hellenic staples such as tzatziki were subtly better than the norm.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
We were blown away
On arriving in Kefalonia on a last-minute deal and never having heard of it last my partner and I were blown away. We stayed in quiet Lixouri but toured the island by bike.
The scenery is breathtaking and the people friendly. Having seen much of Greece, I can honestly say I feel as though I belong in Kefalonia.
The day we returned to the UK I was homesick for Kefalonia. It's not for the nightlife-lovers but for a relaxing holiday you won't beat it.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Seventh visit
Last year was our seventh visit to Kefalonia. In our opinion the island has something for everyone - good beaches, good people and plenty of things to do if you are not a beach bum.
Most of the visitors to the island we have met are returnees - some for 15 years. If you like Greece, try Kefalonia
Travel guide: Kefalonia
I'll be back
It's a beautiful place with a great beach. The people are so friendly and there is a great atmosphere! I will be returning next year!
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Fiskardo is a must
One of the best holidays ever we are returning this year.
Fiskardo is a must. A fabulous little fishing village. We visited when the film Captain Correlli's Mandolin was being filmed. We sat in the harbour eating fresh lobster and Madonna was on the next table!
It's so quiet and beautiful. Stay at Lassi with its wonderful white sandy beaches, no discos and noise - totally relaxing.
Argostoli was great for shopping only a short walk away from Lassi but be prepared it's a long uphill walk back so you would need a taxi which is very cheap to hire.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
An absolute gem
Going to Kefalonia was simply the best holiday I have ever had. I have travelled extensively, as far as Australia, the Far East, America and many European countries.
I stayed in the resort of Agia Efimia - a charming fishing village with friendly locals and no hassle even if you so much as glance in the direction of the menu!
If you're looking for long sandy beaches and touts waiting to drag you into their bar for a 1/2 price cocktail, then this is not the resort for you. I can only describe as true Greek simplicity rarely found in many of the Greek resorts today, an absolute gem.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Look our for your heart
For several years I have been visiting the Greek Islands and feel there's nowhere quite like them. You would be hard pushed to find somewhere which could match the friendliness of the locals, the beautifully rugged yet pretty scenery, the crystal waters, delicious fresh food... the list goes on.
I love their charm so much I am not only planning to marry there but also to live there one day!
The smaller Islands are well worth a visit as they are untouched by tourism and are very accessible as many boats from the bigger islands have trips there. But even on the larger islands, true, untouched Greece can be found.
Out of the larger islands, I would have to say Kos and Zakynthos are my absolute favourites so far. Both have a charm that stays in your memories and the friendliness of the locals is astounding.
A boat trip around the islands is a good idea as you get to see the awesome landscape from a different perspective.
If you do visit Kos, a trip to neighbouring Kalymnos (island of the sponge divers) is worth a visit - with its Venetian architecture and welcoming harbour, it makes for an enjoyable trip. Turkey is also not far away and there are many scheduled boat trips from Kos.
If you visit Zante, then popping over to Kefalonia is a must. It isn't very far away at all and the stunning scenery is worth it - if only for a glimpse of the famous Myrtos beach.
I could go on and on about the Greek islands as I have so many wonderful memories from several of them but the best way for anyone to discover the amazing charm of them is to experience it for themselves - go and visit them all in their sublime glory - you won't be disappointed but you had better be prepared for them to seep into your heart.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
Relaxed beach resort
We have been to Kefalonia three times, staying at the Lassi Hotel & apartments in the resort of Lassi.
The island is stunning and ideal for a relaxing break. Lassi has many restaurants to choose from and music bars a plenty. It is a very relaxed resort, not for the young and lively.
If a beach holiday is what you are looking for, then Lassi is the place for you. There are no less than 5 beaches to choose from.
Travel guide: Kefalonia
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| | | | Resurrecting Argostoli
Kefalonia is the biggest of the Ionian islands, a chain of mountainous jewels strung out along Greece's western coastline. It takes two hours to drive from the north to the south of the island, across rugged terrain dotted with olives and wild thyme. The highest peak, Mount Enos, is 1,000ft higher than Ben Nevis; its northernmost port, Fiskardo, is perhaps the most picturesque fishing village in Greece.
Strangely, the island was last on the list of possible locations when film producer Kevin Loader began his search for the ideal place to shoot Captain Corelli's Mandolin. 'We had numerous requirements and searched throughout Greece to find the perfect location,' he says. 'But there were always major drawbacks.'
The neighbouring island of Ithaca was considered but rejected. 'There were simply not enough hotel rooms for the crew.' The port of Khania in Crete seemed ideal, except for the town's prominent mosque. Next to be rejected was a handful of locations on the Peloponnese, while Corfu - the favoured choice - was too overrun with tourists.
'And then,' says Loader, 'I was sailing towards the Kefalonian port of Sami and I thought "this is it". 'Although all of the old buildings had been destroyed by the 1953 earthquake, there was a harbour deep enough to anchor large warships - an important factor - and a stunning mountainous backdrop.'
The more the film crew explored, the more they realised that Sami was the perfect place to recreate the pre-war capital of Argostoli. The main building on the waterfront was a hotel, the Kastro, which they were able to block-book for the duration of filming. The other buildings were either derelict or their owners were willing to lend them for filming. Within months, the waterfront was receiving the biggest makeover of its life.
The older islanders were amazed to see their one-time capital being resurrected on the other side of the island by a team of British set designers, craftsmen and engineers. 'They brought their grandchildren to show them around,' says Loader. 'They told them, "this is what it used to be like".'
They were even more surprised to see warships anchored in the harbour and German tanks being unloaded on to the quayside.
Many locals still have painful memories of the wartime atrocities that happened on Kefalonia. The barbarous massacre of the Italians by the Nazis, recounted in chilling detail in the novel, was not invented by Louis de Bernieres. 'One old man told me he was witness to the horror,' said Loader. 'The butchered Italians were not buried for five or six days. He could still smell the stench.'
Filming continued for much of last summer, allowing visitors a fascinating insight into the makings of a blockbuster movie with destroyers in the bay, troops drilling in the streets and battered armoured cars being driven to various locations. 'The Greek navy has lent us warships and landing craft,' said Loader. 'We've also borrowed real troops as extras.'
Mystifying Melissani
Still searching for the romance that is Greece, I took a trip on the boat Romantika to the town of Assos. A cold sea-sprayed hour away, Assos is even smaller than Fiskardo. Here, however, the food is similarly divine (in the harbour I ate the best homemade baklava imaginable), and the town boasts a medieval fortress on top of the hill. The winding, dusty walk up to the top of the hill is more rewarding, in a way, than the fortress itself, which lies in ruins.
A Jeep ride around the island took me to the mystic caves of Drogarati and Melissani. The Drogarati cave is a vast, musky, underground cavern, which, because of its superb acoustics, is used for mandolin concerts during the summer.
The Melissani lake is even more mystifying. The place is a rare natural phenomenon - an inland, underground salt water lake with no tide. I descended a steep concrete ramp to the edge of the water that fills the bottom of the cave. A raddled Charon-like boatman picked me up from the edge of the lake, then propelled his wooden craft around the water with a long thin oar.
The lake, although 100ft deep in places, is bright blue and totally clear. Eels swim in the water below the boat, and around the sides of the lake hang strange salt water stalactites. As part of his patter, the boatman pointed out the ones which might look familiar. 'Look - Dumbo!' he said, pointing to a formation in the shape of an elephant's head. As he rowed on, the only sounds in the cave were the splash of the oar and the dripping of water down from the stalactite.
I was amazed as I travelled around the island that even in the more touristy areas like the town of Argostoli, there is no attempt to cash in on the Corelli phenomenon. Tourism began to boom quietly on Cephalonia several years before the novel's publication, and any recent increase in tourism seems largely incidental, not consequential.
On my final night in Kefalonia, I left Fiskardo and made my way to a brand-new hotel to the south of Argostoli. Owners Nikos and Sofia have built a very luxurious hotel, by Greek standards, on top of a high hill overlooking Trapezaki Bay. Nikos spent 20 years working as a jewellery maker in New York, and returned to his native Cephalonia to build his dream. On this opening night, Nikos and Sofia were not in the high spirits one might have expected.
They were thin, drawn and pale. According to their two friends from Aberystwyth, they have both gone down two sizes in clothes in the past few months, and haven't slept for weeks because of the sheer worry of their enterprise.
During the long, drunken evening that followed, Nikos confided that in building his hotel he had made only one mistake - he'd never worked in the hotel business before. Such was the intimacy of this despair in the face of success, that I found myself guiltily longing to laugh.
Here, in this deserted palace at the crown of a hill, I finally found some of the charm of Captain Corelli's Mandolin. The proud and pessimistic spirit which pervades the book is alive and well in the Cephalonia of today.
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| | | | Panorama of the Peloponnese
Most of the filming took place in and around Sami. I found it wasn't hard to flee the bustle and escape the film crews. Hire a car, drive inland, and you'll soon find yourself high in the mountains with only the goats and their clanging bells for company.
The lofty heights of Mount Enos - accessible by dirt track - is the place to get your bearings. On the ascent, you'll pass Agios Giorgios, or St George's Castle, a monumental stone bastion occupied, at various stages in its bloody history, by Byzantines, the French, Turks and Venetians.
The road climbs higher and higher, winding a breathtaking route over the peaks as it leads upwards towards Megalos Soros, the highest point of all. Open the car door and smell the air: it's cool and refreshing and scented with pine. The view is truly spectacular. Mount Enos commands a fabulous panorama of the Peloponnese; nearer, and more distinct, are the islands of Zakinthos, Ithaki, Lefkas, and Corfu.
This is not a place for those with vertigo. I look directly down a sharply descending slope of scree and see - thousands of feet below - the tiny village of Trapezaki, where I'm staying in a delightful, family-run hotel.
In de Bernieres' novel this grandiose mountain, clad in Kefalonia's unique black pine, is home to the simple shepherd, Alekos. He watches an English parachutist land from the heavens, and thinks he's seeing an angel. It's actually Lieutenant 'Bunny' Warren who has come to spy on the Nazis and relay information back to Britain. His spying was to prove in vain, for the British betrayed the islanders by ignoring their pleas for help.
Deep beneath this tortuous landscape lie vast caverns and waterholes. Don't miss the dank Dhrogarati Cave - bedecked with stalactites - or the Melissani Cave, filled with icy water and best explored by boat.
The centre of Kefalonia is, strangely, pancake flat. The fertile meadows, dotted with rambling vines and sweetly scented lemon groves, are home to the church and monastery of Agios Gerasimos. This is the resting place of St Gerasimos, a high-born holy man who forsook his riches and lived out his days in a Kefalonian cave.
His dusty bones are revered and worshipped, for, it is claimed, they have healing powers so strong that the mad and the sick have been spectacularly cured after attending the all-night vigil. A nun ushers me into the church - charcoal black after the blinding sunlight outside. Slowly, as my eyes adjust, a vast silver sarcophagus emerges glittering from the gloom.
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| | | | Ruins of the past
As I tour the island, I stumble unexpectedly across the occasional evidence of filming. In one bay there's an Italian camp - a mass of barbed wire, observation posts and khaki tents. On a nearby hilltop, I find set designers busily building an Orthodox church out of plywood sheets.
Much of Corelli's Kefalonia survived the war, only to be destroyed on a single night in 1953. On August 13th the fault-line that runs through the Ionian islands gave a groan, rocking the island with such fury that most of the buildings wobbled and turned to dust. Thousands were killed, many left for good, and those who survived were left homeless.
New villages sprung up next to old ones and today's visitors will find picturesque, abandoned and half-ruined settlements dotted all over the landscape. One of the most beautiful is to be found high above the modern village of Karavomilos. Follow any one of the overgrown tracks up into the hills and - after 15 minutes of wheel-churning climb -you find yourself among the ghosts and phantoms of Fifties Greece.
Facades stand guard over empty ruins: push the front door and you'll find a riot of lemon and fig trees. The church has folded in on itself like a long-neglected tomb; a farmhouse is heaped with the rubble of decades; crickets and beetles have made safe havens in the old cobbled road.
Abandoned villages are everywhere in Kefalonia. Farsa, Anti-Pata, Foki. I find a villa with shutters still closed for the afternoon siesta. Another clings to its delicate wrought-iron balcony. In one old farmhouse, a coffee cup still stands on the shelf - left there by its owner almost half a century ago.
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| | | | Finding peace in Fiskardo
A geological quirk saved the northern tip of the island from the worst effects of the earthquake. If you want to see the Kefalonia of Corelli's day, the magical island of Venetian villas and solid smallholdings, then you'll need to head to Fiskardo.
The lofty coast road that leads there clings to the edge of the mountains and is a work of audacious (British) engineering. Where the contours allow, tiny side tracks wind down to hidden jewels far below.
Myrtos is one of these gems: it boasts one of the most spectacular beaches on earth. The sea is milky blue, the result of limestone pebbles and pounding waves, while the bleach-white cliff towers into the sky like the facade of an awesome natural cathedral. Elsewhere you can swim in water so crystal clear that the fish swim round and round, perplexed to see themselves reflected on the white pebbles on the bottom.
Continue along the high road for a few more miles and another hairpin trail plunges down snakelike towards Assos, a toy-town cluster of cottages sheltering for protection beneath a stout Venetian castle. There's a small beach, some fine snorkelling and a handful of shaded tavernas in which to while away the lazy hours of mid-afternoon.
The cliff-top road ends at Fiskardo - a tiny but glitteringly chic port with Venetian villas, a cluster of restaurants and a little harbour. It's quiet by day and lively at night. The yachting brigade will tell you it resembles pre-war St Tropez.
The name of the place derives from Robert Guiscard, a terrifying mercenary crusader who sacked Rome before rampaging through Greece. Guiscard destroyed many of the places he visited, but Fiskardo's enchanting beauty worked its spell on him and he decided to spare the place, devoting his energies, instead, to building a monumental church whose broken ruins still crown the natural harbour.
As the sun sinks into the dark sea, the lights flicker on and Fiskardo's little quayside begins to sparkle. It's so unbelievably picturesque that it looks for all the world like a film set. Each night, before I go to bed, I tap the walls and windows. Just to remind myself they're real.
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| | Destination Guide : Kefalonia |
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| | | Sun, style and sophistication |  | Why go on holiday to Kefalonia?
Sun, style, and sophistication - three S's that sum up the beautiful Ionian island of Kefalonia. Rugged, towering mountains provide a dramatic landscape while the fertile earth and splendid flora serve up a feast for the senses.
It's all capped off with picturesque fishing villages and glorious beaches.
How much does it cost?
You may not pick up the real cheap accommodation deals found on some other Greek Islands. Prices vary but seven-day self-catering packages start at about £250, B&B at about £300. Expect to pay about £150 for a return flight to Athens. There are connecting flights from Athens for about £35 at the time of writing.
When should I go?
Kefalonia does not experience the cooling winds of the meltemi, so July and August are extremely hot. Most days reach at least 30C (high 80Fs). The climate in spring and autumn is more comfortable. Expect high rainfall between October and February.
* Feeling inspired? Book a break to Greece.
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| | | The world of Captain Corelli |  | What should I do when I'm there?
The lively, modern port of Argostoli is set on a peninsula, connected to the rest of the island by a causeway. A Saturday market on the waterfront is a bustling hive of activity, with luscious fresh produce for sale.
The only village on Kefalonia not to be devastated by a massive earthquake in 1953, Fiskardo is a delightful fishing harbour, framed by cypress-topped hills and home to some splendid Venetian buildings.
It is also a popular stopping-off point with holiday yachts. Sami is a pretty little port, where much of the film of Captain Corelli's Mandolin was shot.
What are the beaches like?
The sweeping, white sandy beach of Myrtos is considered one of the Greek islands' most spectacular and is 3km from the white-washed village of Assos, on the north coast.
Another outstanding beach can be found at Lourdas on the south coast between Argostoli and Skala. By boat you can access some delightful coves and have a beach all to yourself.
What sights are there?
There are two spectacular caves on Kefalonia. Mellisani cave, 2.5km from Sami, is a subterranean seawater lake where the water turns into a kaleidoscope of colour when the sun shines through an overhead opening.
Nearby Drogarati cave is filled with spectacular stalactites.
What activities can I do?
Choose from a wide selection of watersports including parasailing, waterskiing, sailboarding and scuba diving. Kefalonia's also a fun and challenging place to go mountain biking - but watch out for potholes!
What are the flora and fauna like?
Kefalonia has a rich diversity of plant life. There are many species of wildflower, including orchids; the heady scents of thyme, oregano and bay leaves; and a unique fir forest species.
Visitors to Kefalonia in June may be lucky enough to witness the annual influx of loggerhead turtles, who lay their eggs on the island's southern beaches.
The waters around Kefalonia are also home to the Mediterranean monk seal, one of the six most endangered mammals in the world.
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| | | Living the good life | | Where's good for nightlife?
Ibiza can safely hold onto its crown as the party island, but Kefalonia has a selection of discos and bars which will satisfy all but the most fervent club animals. Lassi, a popular resort 20 minutes' walk from Argostoli, is probably best for clubbing.
What's the food like?
Expect plenty of fresh seafood and the usual taverna staples which you'd find on the mainland.
Kefalonian lamb pie is a local speciality well worth seeking out. Veggies will delight in the stuffed peppers and tomatoes, giant beans in tomatoes and herbs and green beans. Robola, the local white wine, slips down easily.
What should I buy?
An exotic and eclectic range of local produce including thyme honey, mandoles (pralines), Robola wine, quince paste and various cheeses. Island pottery is another good souvenir.
What is there for children to do?
There is a children's park in Argostoli, but other than that the beach is the main attraction. The water is clean and clear and children are made to feel welcome all over the island.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London W1S 2DJ. Tel. 020 7495 9300.
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| | Fact File : Kefalonia |
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| | | Kefalonia | | Did you know?
Captain Corelli's Mandolin - the film and book - is set here.
Language
Greek
Visas
None required for EU residents.
Getting there
Direct charter flights from UK. Regular air service to Athens. Ferry links to other islands in the Ionian group and the Greek mainland.
Flying time from London
About four hours
Getting around
Bus services from Argostoli to Platys Gialos, Sami, Poros, Skala and Fiskardo are infrequent. Car hire is reasonable and worth it to really explore the island. Local ferries go to Patras and Ithaca.
Currency
Euro
Costs
Litre of petrol 50p; moderately priced restaurant meal for two with wine £20; 24-exposure camera film £2.50; bottle of beer £1; four-mile taxi ride about £3 (if you can find one!). All prices are approximate.
Weather
Kefalonia does not experience the cooling winds of the meltemi so July and August are extremely hot, with most days reaching at least 30C (high 80Fs). The climate in spring and autumn is more comfortable. Expect high rainfall between October and February. Winter temperatures range from 9-19C (48-66F).
Time difference
Three hours ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 30 for Greece, followed by island code.
Voltage
220V, 50Hz - you'll need an adaptor for the standard continental two-pin plug.
Opening hours
Banks open 8am-2pm Mon-Thur and 8.30am-1.30pm Fri, but in Athens some will also open between 3.30 and 6.30pm. It varies from bank to bank. Post offices open 7.30am to 8pm and till 2pm on Sats. Shops vary - some open seven days a week, some close for very long lunches. Department stores usually open from 8am to 8pm but close Sundays.
Health - Before you go
UK citizens are covered for health care on production of form EHIC (available from UK post offices). Emergency treatment is free in hospital (though relatives must take food in for patients). However, the health service in Greece is very underfunded and one of the poorest in Europe so if you'd prefer private treatment, decent travel insurance is essential.
Health - When you are there
Sunburn is the biggest danger - especially in summer. Slap on the sunscreen and drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration.
Warnings
Tap water is generally safe to drink. Be wary of the sun, and pack an insect repellent.
Emergency
Tel 166. British Embassy Ploutarhou 1, Athens 106 75. Tel: 723 6211.
Customs
Cats are everywhere and feeding them is a popular pastime.
Pets
You may take them under the PETS travel scheme. Rabies vaccinations and blood tests are needed for the documentation and the process is lengthy - start at least seven months before travel.
Tipping
Service is included on restaurant bills but it is customary to leave a small tip.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London, W1R 0DJ. Tel. 020 7495 9300.
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| | Available rental properties in Kefalonia |
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| |  | | Villa Diana with large private Pool, Kefalonia
Exclusive Spacious Villa with large private pool set in Idyllic surroundings on picturesque island of Kefalonia.
|  | | Villa Asterea, Kefalonia
Newly built luxuryVilla in majestic Kefalonia
|  | | Villa Brio complex, Kefalonia, Greece, Villa 1
Four
seafront villas, in Kefalonia, Greece, with private beach and pools, for those who opt for finesse & affordable luxury during their holiday.
|  | | Villa Brio complex, Kefalonia, Greece, Villa 2
Four seafront villas, in Kefalonia, Greece, with private beach and pools, for those who opt for finesse & affordable luxury during their holidays.
|  | | Villa Brio complex, Kefalonia, Greece, Villa 3
Four seafront villas,in Kefalonia, Greece, with private beach and pools, for those who opt for finesse & affordable luxury during their holidays.
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Holiday Rentals in Kefalonia |
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 |  | Family and kids (31) | | | Beautiful Scenery (15) | | | Beach (8) | | | Unspoilt and charming (7) | | | Culture and history (3) |
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