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| | | | A world of the oyster
From the Mail on Sunday
And on the eighth day, God had a laugh. He made a grotesque shell, filled it with jelly and called it an oyster. And, since that wasn't exactly hilarious, he created all oysters male and got them to change sex twice a year. Scarcely has a male oyster slimed his way into his lady-mate's shell than 'Cripes!' - he finds that she's the one wearing the trousers.
You'll learn a thing or two about oysters if you visit Whitstable, a pretty fishing town sitting at the mouth of the Medway Estuary. Whitstable is the pearl in the crown of England's oyster industry - the place where tens of thousands of cultivated oysters are bred, grown and harvested for sale at Billingsgate and beyond.
The place revolves around seafood and you'll find oyster-selling restaurants by the dozen (or half-dozen). There's the Royal Native Oyster Stores and Wheelers Oyster Bar, Pearson's Crab And Oyster House and - for those who want to branch out - the harbour-front Crab And Winkle. Fancy going to the movies? Try the Imperial Oyster Cinema.
I'm standing outside St Augustine's Fish Merchants on Whitstable's quay and I have in my hand a luscious live oyster. I've always been squeamish about eating things that aren't dead and this little darling is clearly in her prime.
But I can't back down now - there are three hardy fishermen watching to see if I'm man or mouse. I splash on the lemon, lift her to my lips and tip her wobbling belly on to my tongue. Mollusc meets teeth in an orgy of sea juice. Call the sea crimes tribunal.
Whitstable is so hooked on oysters that it hosts a special oyster festival every July. It's a colourful event: there are raucous processions, morris dancing competitions, late-night music and lively parties. Women dress up as Neptune. Men coat themselves in shells.
And at the end of it all, a platter of oysters is ceremoniously landed from a traditional oyster skiff. It's worth making the effort to visit during festival week, but that shouldn't stop you from going at other times of the year.
Travel guide: Kent
The arts of William Morris
As locations for National Trust properties go, it's a most unlikely one. Surrounded by bungalows and just a few miles from London's South Circular Road, the Red House is an architectural oddity.
This extraordinary building in Bexleyheath, Kent, was once the home of the pioneering Victorian designer William Morris. It was here that the Arts and Crafts movement was born. Within a generation, millions of homeowners throughout Britain would be copying Morris's unique style.
William Morris decided to build his extraordinary-home in 1858 with the help of architect Philip Webb.
Out went the exterior stucco so beloved by London's builders. And, instead of having ornate marble fireplaces, Morris insisted on them being made from plain, unfashionable orange-red Kentish brick. Even more bizarre for the period was his idea of having huge windows, so that light would stream into his home.
'It was totally revolutionary in its day,' says Fliss Coombs of the National Trust, which has recently acquired the house.
Morris, then just 26, planned his house on a grand scale, with massive chimney stacks and a great tiled roof, broken by gables, turrets and ridges.
No sooner was the construction work finished, in 1860, than the weekend house parties began. Regular guests included Dante Gabriel Rossetti and Lizzie Siddall, the Burne-Joneses and other Pre-Raphaelite artists.
Morris struggled to buy furniture for his house but could find nothing that matched his style. Everything - from cupboards to glasses - had to be hand-designed.
Morris and his friends did much of the work. Morris designed the furniture, Burne-Jones and Rossetti painted tiles and glass, while Morris's wife Janey embroidered wall hangings.
Some of their efforts have only recently come to light. When a bedroom wall cupboard was removed, it revealed a mural painted by Lizzie Siddall.
Morris's manufacturing and decorating company, known affectionately as 'The Firm', was established soon after the construction of the Red House. It changed the way people viewed their houses.
Travel guide: Kent
Full steam ahead for Canterbury
As I waited on the train station, the crowds started to gather. Although they were not going to be boarding the train, they were still waiting for the same one as me.
Professional and amateur cameras lay waiting in their hands and an excited chatter filled the platform at Victoria in London.
All ages lay in wait, most probably because steam trains for the young have become more popular with the timeless Thomas The Tank Engine and the creation of the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter series.
The recognisable puff-puff of the train and the bellowing smoke told me it was arriving way before any platform announcer could. I was boarding the Cathedrals Express steam train and my destination was the historic city of Canterbury.
Coal and water are essential for this trip. For a journey of up to 180 miles, an express steam locomotive will use approximately 10,000 gallons of water (45,000 litres) and four tons of coal.
Steam-hauled trains, such as the Cathedrals Express, can travel at a maximum speed of 75mph.
Our three-hour journey to Canterbury led us past some of London's landmarks, most notably the London Eye, and then into the countryside. Passing Bickley, the landscape opened up before we chugged through Eynsford Tunnel and over the wandering River Darent.
I was seated in premier dining. For brunch, I chose eggs Benedict - a toasted muffin with smoked ham and poached eggs topped with hollandaise sauce served with fresh orange juice, followed by a selection of mini pastries.
The train crossed the M25, turned eastwards and continued along the south escarpment of the North Downs. Over to our right was the Weald of Kent which is often called "The Garden of England". We passed West Malling with the spire of St Mary and the Virgin visible on the right and the Horticultural Research Centre on the left.
The friendly chatter of people enjoying themselves filled the carriage. Many on the journey were celebrating wedding anniversaries, birthdays or just a dream of a lifetime.
Before reaching Hollingbourne, the impressive Leeds Castle stood proudly on the right. Lastly, Canterbury Cathedral cheerfully came into view before we reached our destination - Canterbury West Station.
Knowing where to go first is the hardest decision to make when arriving. I decided to walk through the city centre towards the cathedral. The shops ranged from Fenwick department store to quirky little second-hand clothes boutiques.
The cathedral is the most popular and impressive attraction. Its foundation dates back to the arrival of the first archbishop, Augustine, from Rome in AD597. The spot of the infamous murder of Thomas Becket in 1170 makes this one of the most famous places of pilgrimage in Europe.
The cathedral is noteworthy for its medieval tombs of royals, such as Henry IV and Edward the Black Prince, and its rare stained glass windows dating back to the 12th century.
Other places to visit include: Canterbury Castle, St Martin's Church and the Goods Shed, an indoor farmers' market and restaurant open six days a week.
Travel guide: Kent
Kent - more than the Garden of England
Many people think of Kent as the county they race through on the M20 on their way to France.
But the county's tourism bosses want to get the message across that Kent is a holiday destination itself - or at least a place to go for a short break.
Tourism chief Ross Macculloch says its tag as the Garden of England appeals to older visitors but it also wants to attract families and younger couples.
"The Garden of England has the image of countryside but there's so much more. it's more like the playground of England," he says.
"We don't have a major icon for Kent but we have a lot of hidden treasures," he adds.
"We want people to stay longer and sample things outside the honeypots of Canterbury and Tunbridge Wells."
One fairly new attraction in Kent is the Hop Farm at Paddock Farm which opened in 1984 and has expanded a lot in the last five years.
Today the farm of distinctive oast houses includes an eclectic collection of animals, military vehicles, pottery, historical exhibitions and playgrounds.
The emphasis is firmly on families with a bit of education thrown in and there is probably enough there to fill a day.
The Hop Farm features lots of special events including the War and Peace Show on July 16-20 with military vehicles. It is adding improvements all the time and while its fun areas hit the mark the history and exhibitions are a bit lacklustre and lifeless.
Travel guide: Kent
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| | | | An unorthodox menage a trois
Morris drew much of his inspiration from the Middle Ages. The huge covered porch - known as the pilgrims' rest - became a place for guests to relax and chat.
Nearby was a medieval-looking well which quickly became the focal point of the house. It was here that Morris's guests - writers, artists and poets - would gather to exchange ideas.
The fruits of their labours can be seen throughout the house. There are stained glass windows and giant brick hearths, turreted newel posts and Gothic arched doorways.
The huge hall cupboard is said to have been crafted by Morris himself. Its painted decoration features Morris and Janey dressed in medieval garb.
The dining room settle also dates from Morris's time and is painted in what Morris described as 'dragons' blood red'. The stairwell is the most impressive feature of the house - a swirling mass of oak with an arched ceiling painted in cobalt and aquamarine.
It leads to a high-beamed drawing room with another massive settle commissioned by Morris. On either side are exquisite murals by Edward Burne-Jones, featuring Morris and Janey at a medieval feast.
The house is surrounded by a two-acre garden which is slowly being restored with the help of old photos and letters written by the weekend guests.
Morris and Janey spent just five years in the Red House before their rustic idyll was suddenly shattered. First, Morris contracted rheumatic fever in 1865 and then he suffered a dramatic loss of income when the value of his copper shares plummeted.
There was also the huge burden of work from his ever-expanding company. He needed to spend more and more time in London.
But there was a more personal - and altogether more tragic - reason why the Morrises left the Red House. Janey had begun a passionate affair with Rossetti and the stress on Morris became intolerable.
After a difficult period in London, the three of them settled on an unorthodox menage a trois, moving to Oxfordshire. Morris was in tears when he sold the Red House. He had put everything into the building and vowed never again to set eyes on the place.
He can hardly have known that - within a few years - he'd see miniature versions of his house in virtually every street in the country.
The Red House's opening hours are 11am-5pm, Wednesday-Sunday. Pre-booked guided tours only. For bookings, call 01494 755588.
Pampering the passengers
As I boarded the train for my return journey, I was sorry to see Canterbury go. Sturry and Minster faded into the distance as the express turned south to cross the Minster Marshes and Richborough Castle.
Shortly into our journey, dinner was served. For my starter, I had cerviche of avocado, chilli, lime juice and fresh coriander topped with smoked salmon served with a tomato and onion salsa.
It was followed by a roasted rack of lamb stuffed with prunes and served on potato rosti with a port wine jus and seasonal vegetables - washed down with a complimentary glass of champagne.
Next came a mouth-watering treat for dessert, a rich chocolate crème brulee mousse. A vegetarian option was also available.
To spoil the passengers just that little bit more, chocolates were served to everyone and birthday cake delivered to those celebrating on board.
Later, the train joined the line from Canterbury East into Dover Priory. The docks were on the left as the train emerged from the Harbour Tunnel and the line spectacularly ran along the shore below Shakespeare Cliff and into the Shakespeare Tunnel.
Further into our journey we passed Pluckley where The Darling Buds Of May was filmed. Like a picture-postcard, we could see white-capped oast houses dotting the landscape. We then passed Paddock Wood, the centre of hop growing, Sevenoaks and Petts Wood before reaching London.
I thoroughly recommend this journey for all ages. It's an excellent family day out, birthday gift or Christmas treat. The steam train was marvelled at at every point in its journey - people waited at stations or rushed out of their houses to give us a wave. The food could not be faulted and neither could the city of Canterbury.
It was a wonderful experience - a day that I will never forget and I'm already planning my next trip.
Standard fares start from £39.50, £68 in first class and £129 for the dining option. Christmas packages start from £55 in standard.
For info on the Cathedrals Express, see steamdreams.co.uk or phone 01483 209888.
For more information on Canterbury Cathedral, go to canterbury-cathedral.org or ring 01227 762862.
A castle with a place in history
How to make education and information interesting enough to attract families is still an issue for established tourist attractions.
Hever Castle in Edenbridge is a pretty site which has a key place in history as the home of Anne Boleyn.
The castle itself is full of wonderful old furniture, models and exhibits but that didn't stop my three-year old proclaiming loudly: "It's boring here".
Hever Castle is more suited to older visitors with its emphasis on history and formal gardens.
Inside there is strictly no touching or interaction but history buffs can spend hours poring over artefacts and documents hundreds of years old.
The main attractions for young people are outside with a traditional maze and a water maze which squirts water at unexpected moments drenching clothes.
The tourism bosses of Kent will soon be unveiling themed breaks aimed at luring tourists to discover the county.
But visitors to Kent should think about taking their passports - going over the Channel for dinner is one idea to add a bit of spice to the trip.
The Hop Farm 01622 872068. Prices are from £6.50 adults, £5.50 children. Hever Castle 01732 865224. Prices are from £8.40 adults, £4.60 children.
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| | Destination Guide : Kent |
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| | | Garden of England |  | Why go on holiday to Kent?
Renowned as the "Garden of England", Kent boasts some of the UK's loveliest countryside and in parts has truly chocolate-box views.
Take a stroll through its rolling hills, serene meadows and beautiful villages that simply ooze English charm. With family attractions galore, heritage and enchanting castles, how can you resist Kent?
How much does it cost?
A Network Away Break return by train to Tunbridge Wells from London costs £15. By National Express coach, adult London-Tunbridge Wells fares start about £9.50.
However fares can vary greatly and you should always check with the operator for exact prices.
A room in a hotel in Kent will cost £40 upwards per night, on average. B&B prices start at around £15 per night. Self-catering accommodation starts at £200 per week.
Adults pay around £8.80 per night at youth hostels across the region. Campsite pitches start at about £9 per night. A week's rental of a seaside cottage costs from £185. Moderate restaurant meal (main course), from around £5; pint of beer, £2.
How do I get there?
By train - Tunbridge Wells station is in the town centre. Buses and taxis run from here. Canterbury has two train stations, East and West - check which one is handier, with the Visitor Information Centre (tel. 01227 378 100).
By coach - Coaches arrive at Mount Pleasant Road in Tunbridge Wells town centre. Canterbury bus station is just within the city walls at the eastern end of the High St.
There are good bus networks in the region, eg. Kent Compass 100 takes in Canterbury, Dover, Deal, Sandwich, Ramsgate, Margate, Herne Bay and Whitstable.
By air - Gatwick, handling flights from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Newcastle, Manchester, Aberdeen, Inverness, Guernsey, Jersey, Cork, Shannon and Newquay, is the nearest major airport and is 30 miles away from Tunbridge Wells.
By car - Take junction 4 or 5 off the M25.
When should I go?
Kent has a mild climate, but your best chance of sunshine is from April to September. Temperatures rarely fall below freezing in the winter (Nov-Feb) and rarely rise above 30C/80F in the summer months.
In the middle of July, the annual Kent County Show is staged near Maidstone and is a massive event attracting over 100,000 people. Livestock shows, agricultural exhibitions and fairground rides are among the attractions.
The largest military re-enactment show in the world takes place near Tonbridge when the annual War and Peace Show takes over Hop Farm Country Park in the last week of July.
It's an extravaganza of battle re-enactments, tank crushing, paintballing and vintage military vehicles spread over 300 acres.
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| | | Fairytale castle | | What should I do when I'm there?
Kent is rich in cycle and walking routes, golf courses, leisure centres, museums, shops and world-famous attractions so you will never be short of reasons to get out and about.
What should I see?
Leeds Castle, just east of Maidstone, is famous as one of the world's most beautiful castles and its fairytale appearance must be experienced.
Get wonderful views across the Channel from the spectacular Dover castle, a preserved medieval fortress.
Wandering through Sissinghurst Castle Gardens in spring or summer is an unforgettable and dreamlike experience.
The superb gardens, in and around a ruined Elizabethan mansion, get very busy in peak season.
The magnificent Canterbury Cathedral is the greatest treasure of the city and well worth visiting for its beautiful cloisters and mix of architectural styles.
For traditional English seaside fun, head to the popular resort of Margate. Dreamland Funpark has 36 rides varying from those for tiny tots to white-knuckle screamers. It has the oldest wooden roller coaster in the country.
What's the countryside like?
Stunning in parts. Kent has some of the most beautiful scenery in the country. The area of woodland and hills known as the Weald is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It lies between the impressive North and South Downs.
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| | | Fresh Whitstable oysters | | Where's good for nightlife?
Try the university town of Canterbury. There are also nightclubs in Maidstone, Tunbridge Wells, and Medway Valley Park at Strood.
What's the food like?
You can eat your way around the world in Kent, with restaurants featuring everything from Italian, Thai, American, Chinese, Indian and English cuisine.
People travel for miles to sample Whitstable's famous native oysters. Or how about a traditional Kent takeaway of fish and chips?
What should I buy?
Try local honey, jam, wine or cider. Look for produce marked Kentish Fare in delicatessens. Kent is also strong on antiques and you will find shops all over the region selling collectibles.
The main centres are Hythe, Sandgate, Rochester, Tenterden, Wetherham and Tunbridge Wells.
Kent also boasts Europe's largest shopping centre. Shop 'til you drop at Bluewater Park, close to the M25 (junction 2) intersection with the A2. There is a staggering 275 shops and free parking for 13,000 cars.
What is there for children to do?
For a great family day out, head to one of the famed wild animal parks. Howletts Wild Animal Park at Bekesbourne, has the biggest breeding herd of lowland gorillas in the world, as well as elephants, tigers, small cats, monkeys, deer and antelope.
Port Lympne Wild Animal Park, Mansion and Gardens, near Hythe, is a 350-acre estate containing herds of rare horses, deer, antelope, rhino, elephants, tigers, lions and gorillas.
Tourist office
South East England Tourist Board, The Old Brew House, Warwick Park, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 5TV. Tel. 01892 540 766.
Tunbridge Wells Tourist Information Centre, The Old Fish Market, The Pantiles, Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent, TN2 5TN. Tel. 01892 515 675.
Canterbury Visitor Information Centre, 34 St Margaret's St, Canterbury, Kent CT1 2TG. Tel. 01227 378 100.
Dover Tourist Information Centre, Townwall St, Dover, Kent, CT17 1JR.
Tel. 01304 205 108.
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