Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Finland / Lapland
 |  | Travel Reviews : Lapland |
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| | | | Review by Joel Orme from Manchester
Lapland was a truly amazing place, magical in fact and a must for any winter sports enthusiasts.
The place has so much to offer from it's excellent ski slopes to memorable Husky Rides and the excitment of driving your very own snow mobile across the wintery plains.
And if you are lucky, like us, you'll catch the Northern Lights in all there glory.
A fantastic place to visit, if you've always wondered what it would be like then don't hesitate and go today!
Red nose day with Santa
Just an hour into the trip, 30,000ft over an icy ocean, and I'm already wondering why I'm searching for Santa on a day trip to Finnish Lapland.
The excited children have taken over the aircraft's PA system and are breaking into a chorus of When Santa Got Stuck Up The Chimney. Some of them are singing in a pitch that can be heard only by dogs and some types of sea mammal.
Still, I expect it's different when it's 'one of your own' (I'd failed to procure a small child to bring with me), especially when they start telling dirty jokes and have the microphone grabbed from them.
Our destination was the town of Rovaniemi in northern Finland. I was quite intrigued - after all, it's not every day you get the chance to experience being inside the Arctic Circle, and with the sun beaming down on a crisp December morning just how cold could it be?
Ahem. Minus 35C is a temperature I assumed was reserved for freezing inert gases in laboratory experiments, but it appears some people actually live in these conditions.
Admittedly, even the local guides had to concede it was 'a bit chilly' - there was a freak cold snap on the day we arrived. Apparently, school is cancelled only if the temperature dips below minus 40.
I imagine that in such conditions the teachers are too busy fighting off advanced hypothermia to give a maths lesson.
But Santa must be found at all costs, and we're kitted out in bountiful layers of thermal overalls and boots to insulate our temperate extremities.
Though everyone is wrapped up impenetrably, you can tell it's a different kind of cold outside. Cold that could hurt you.
That said, the immediate scenery is spectacular, especially if you're into heavy snowfall and fir trees.
Travel guide: Lapland
Was Santa taking us for a ride?
From the Mail on Sunday
What a brilliant idea - a day trip to the Arctic Circle, just before Christmas-to take your kids to meet Santa Claus in Lapland.
Mind you, taking a large family for the day costs almost as much as buying a terraced house in Hull - but it must be worth it, because Santa wouldn't rip off the kids, would he?
Father Christmas lives in a pine forest outside the Finnish town of Rovaniemi which, from the air, looks like an ugly industrial centre.
By the time we touched down at Rovaniemi Airport, my children, Betty and Bill, were very excited.
Even though we'd been up since the small hours, the time difference between Finland and the UK meant there was only an hour or two of daylight left.
Surely we would rush off to see Father Christmas before it got dark? No. First, we had a Lappish arrival ceremony, in a pitch black, smoke-filled wigwam. It was a dryly humorous affair conducted by a Lapp with a big knife and when we emerged, our eyes crying with the smoke, the daylight had all but gone, so it was off to lunch.
The children were confused. Indeed all our stomachs were confused, as we had only just breakfasted on the plane. Where was Father Christmas? Just making sure we were well fed, that was all.
After lunch the temperature had plummeted to minus eight centigrade (quite a warm evening for Lapland, apparently) when we set off at last to see Santa.
He had arranged for us to visit him by reindeer sleigh and snowmobile, returning by dog sled, which was tremendously exciting.
We boarded our sleighs, the handler cracked his whip and off we went. We didn't get far - about five yards - before the reindeer started fighting, their antlers smacking into each other like two hat stands locked in combat.
Travel guide: Lapland
Everything for families
I have travelled to and around Finland several times and enjoyed every minute. The place is fantastic, the people are wonderful. They sure know how to look after you and how to party.
Helsinki, wow, what a place. You can get anywhere from there, a great place to start on your Finnish experience. While you're there it's a must to catch the night train to Lapland and see Santa, no matter what time of year you go, he's never too busy to say hello and have a photo taken.
For families, the Fins are great, everything is centred around families. Give it a go, you'll love it!
Travel guide: Lapland
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| | | | Appropriate festive atmosphere
We were led into a nearby teepee and offered a sip of warm milk and, for no readily obvious reason, were daubed in charcoal by a nervous girl in national costume.
She muttered something about us 'all being her reindeer now' (I assume she was actually on the staff, and not just a member of an evangelistic wing of a sinister Inuit cult).
Back outside, we met some real reindeer, which, it has to be said, looked as if they had not played any reindeer games in a long, long time. Still, they're a hardy lot, and a sled ride through the snow (no dashing, sadly) was enough to provoke an appropriate festive atmosphere.
With lunchtime approaching, I wondered if Rudolph made it on to the menu, but much to the relief of all concerned - especially the already-impressed children - we were served up some warm fish and potatoes instead.
The sun was already setting as we headed out into the afternoon. There's only a couple of hours' daylight this far north and the fading light was a dramatic backdrop for our chance to drive snowmobiles (the technical name, I'm told, is skidoos) into the forest.
Snaking through the woods in single file, we were like a rural chapter of the Hell's Angels on skis, though the sound of bawling as we lost the warming light of the sun sometimes drowned out the noise of the diesel engines.
The skidoos got up a fair bit of speed and I felt like James Bond, or at least the bloke out of the Milk Tray advert, until I banked into an off-piste snowdrift, which did not inspire huge amounts of confidence in the mother and child I was pulling.
It's all quite safe, though; the only damage done was to my driving credibility.
But what's this? A cabin in the woods? I wonder who could live here?
The energetic guides, wonderful throughout the day, were whipping the children into a suitable state of frenzied yuletide excitement as we entered Santa's house. The big, bearded man himself sat regally in the corner.
The children pulled out their Christmas lists. The adults pulled out their hip flasks and we sat around a blazing fire as Santa's helpers led each of the children up to sit on his knee.
Santa tea towels
Finally the reindeer were separated and chastised, and off we went again but, after a hundred yards of apparently circular motion, we arrived back at the starting point. At least it looked like where we'd had lunch.
If the journey was a bogus one to make the children's trip more exciting, even the tiniest child could see he was being duped. No, this must be an identical-looking place to the one we had set out from.
Then it was off by snowmobile to find Santa's log cabin in the forest. It wasn't long before we found it, despite the thick flakes of whirling snow.
I'd expected something more traditional, but then Santa's a modern chap, which would explain why he now lives on the ground floor of a modern office block next to a main road. That would also be why he's dispensed with the elves, the toys, the Christmas cards and all the other old-fashioned fripperies.
Father Christmas himself turned out to be a thin, lugubrious man from Bolton with a false white beard and no personality.
He had arranged for all the children to write to him (via the tour company) before the trip so that, when they arrived, all their letters would be waiting for them in his grotto - er, office.
However, Santa didn't actually have the children's letters with him. Instead, he had a sheaf of A4 photocopies-each marked with a laundry ticket. The children were issued with matching laundry tickets.
So when Santa got to my son's letter, instead of calling out 'Bill', he called out (in his Bolton accent) '297'. Nonetheless, Bill seemed awfully happy to have met the real Father Christmas.
Afterwards, Santa had generously thought that we'd enjoy an extended stay in his village, which - it turns out - is situated in the light industry belt of Rovaniemi.
It is entirely made up of shops. No elves. Nothing to see. Just things to buy. Santa cuddly toys, Santa paperweights, Santa tea towels, Santa key rings. And several hours to kill.
How thoughtful of him.
TRAVEL FACTS:
For further information call the Finnish Tourist Board on 020 7365 2512 (http://www.finland-tourism.com).
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| | | | A heartwarming sight
Even for the cynical and childless among us, it was a heartwarming sight. Though that could have been because of the brandy.
One of the younger children sat by the fire next to me. I asked him if he'd enjoyed coming to find Santa. 'Oh yes! It's been very good! Like magic!'
And how did he feel, actually meeting the man himself? 'I was a bit scared. But then I sat on his knee and he was very friendly. He made me laugh!'
And will he be stopping by your house on Christmas Eve then? 'Well . . . he said he would, but I don't think it WILL be him, because when I looked very hard I could see the Sellotape under his beard . . .'
Ah, the magic of Christmas. Still, the children seemed genuinely to enjoy it and everyone got a nice present (I was almost tempted to approach Mr Claus myself, just to get one of the cool Finnish hats).
As we prepared to board the coach back to Santa's Village, there was time, for those who wanted, to be whizzed around a makeshift track by a team of huskies.
The dogs actually seemed faster than the skidoos, and it was quite exhilarating, in a way that I imagine being in the short spin cycle in the washing machine must be.
The village is a huge, neon-lit shopping centre, and though you can simply get a Lappish stamp in your passport and a certificate for being inside the Arctic Circle, the gift shops offer plenty more.
More tempting is the chance to patronise the cafes and return to something approaching normal body temperature.
One efficient transfer to the airport later and we were clambering on to the plane with a sense of contented weariness - some of which was blatantly commercial, but some of which was almost magical, even for those of us over six years old.
Thankfully, the movie announced by the attendant - 'Shriek' (I had visions of a feature-length infants' carol service) - turned out to be the less sinister Shrek, though most of the target audience was already dreaming of the coming material gain.
Me? I was happy to be heading back to a relatively tropical minus five.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Transun offers day trips to Lapland, with flights from London Gatwick and most regional airports, from £229. http://www.transun.co.uk tel: 0870 4444747.
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| | Destination Guide : Lapland |
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| | | Land of the midnight sun |  | Why go on holiday to Lapland?
Lapland covers 150,000 square miles north of the Arctic Circle and spans Sweden, Norway, Finland and the Kola Peninsula of Russia. Go there to explore the almost untouched natural beauty of this land of the midnight sun, to see the Northern Lights, meet the native Sami people and see bears, whales and reindeer. At Christmas time go to meet Santa Claus.
How much does it cost?
A visit is not cheap but then this isn't your typical package holiday destination. For a 19-day overland rail journey from London with accommodation and food, expect to pay in the region of £2,000. A seven-day husky sledge trip in Swedish Lapland is from £1,250.
Flights to Helsinki start at £150 and to Oulu, further north, from £300. Flights to Stockholm are from around £100, although you may pick up something cheaper with budget airlines. Flights to Oslo are from £100 and to Tromso from £300. All prices vary so shop around.
When should I go?
There's something to see all year. From May it's light all night for a couple of months and in the winter for two months it's dark all day. October, February and March are the best times to view the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis).
February and March are also the best times for dog sledding and snow-mobiling. In June and July, the mosquitoes are at their worst.
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| | | Take a sleigh ride | | What should I do when I'm there?
In summer, go hiking in the national parks on trails catering for all abilities. Spot the abundant wildlife, including Arctic fox, elk, brown bear and birds such as the majestic white-tailed eagle. Fishing in the many lakes and rivers is another popular summer pastime, as is canoeing, riding, panning for gold and white-water rafting.
Winter activities include dog sledding, fishing through the ice, whale watching, skiing, snow-mobiling or riding in a reindeer sleigh.
Who lives in Lapland?
The indigenous people are the Sami, who have now mostly given up their traditional nomadic lifestyle and live in permanent homes. Some still herd reindeer (there are more reindeer than people in Lapland) but tourism, forestry, mining and agriculture have now become the staples of the economy.
To learn more about the Sami and their crafts, reindeer farming and fishing traditions, visit the open air Saamelaismuseo at Inari in Finnish Lapland. In summer, you can take a boat to the ancient Sami site of Ukko Island.
Lapland's other famous resident is Santa Claus and there are short breaks available to visit the white-bearded one.
Is it all flat and windswept?
Lapland's scenery is varied and changes as you go north, from green forests with clear flowing rivers stacked with fish, to hills, swamps and bare tundra.
Where's the Ice Hotel?
At Jukkasjarvi, 18 miles east of Kiruna, in Swedish Lapland. The ice hotel, or Ishotellet, is built from scratch every winter from hundreds of tonnes of ice and snow. The foyer has an ice chandelier and there's an ice cinema, an ice chapel where you can get married, an ice bar and an ice sculpture exhibition. The 60-room hotel, surrounded by forest, is open from December to April.
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| | | Traditional Sami crafts | | Where's good for nightlife?
The main towns have plenty of welcoming bars but why waste your time drinking when you could play a round of midnight golf in Tornio or relax in the sauna after a hard day's exploring? In Finnish Lapland, Oulu is known for its lively beer terraces and pubs. Ski resorts are pretty lively.
What's the food like?
Traditional Lappish fare includes reindeer, crayfish, salmon, herring, fish soups and berries, such as cloudberry and lingonberry, which are made into a variety of products. Lappish sour milk pastries are good with coffee, but after dinner some traditionalists prefer a special cheese in their coffee.
Eating out in restaurants can be expensive - if you're on a budget, look for hearty, special lunch menus and top up with foods bought at local supermarkets. Alcohol is pricey.
What should I buy?
Sami arts and crafts (known as duodji) include jewellery, items made of horn, tin, silver and wood (including trolls). Traditional patterned knitwear, including hats and mittens, is also a good souvenir, though not cheap.
What is there for children to do?
Visit the Santa Claus village near Rovaniemi, Lapland's main town. The post office here gets around a million letters a year. The nearby Santa Park has amusement rides. In case you don't spot them in the wild, visit the Ranua Wildlife Park, 52 miles south of Rovaniemi which has 30 mammal and 30 bird species in natural enclosures, including the shy Finnish moose.
Visit the Kalevala Village Theme Park, near Kuhmo, (near the Russian border), which has demonstrations of traditional fishing, tar making and woodcarving.
Tourist Office
Finnish Tourist Board, PO Box 33213, London W6 8JX. Tel: 020 7365 2512 (Information and brochures).
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| | Fact File : Lapland |
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| | | Lapland | | Did you know?
The annual festival of Poikkinainti in Pello celebrates cross-border marriages by conducting a wedding ceremony in the middle of the river.
Language
Sami dialects, Finnish, Swedish and Norwegian.
Visas
None required.
Getting there
To get to Lapland via Sweden, fly to Stockholm and take a connecting flight to Kiruna. Via Norway, fly to Tromso or to Oslo and take a connecting flight or train north. Via Finland, fly to Helsinki and take a connecting flight to Rovaniemi or Kemi. There are also several trains from capital cities including a 14-hour journey from Helsinki to Kemijarvi.
Flying time from London
Finland - two hours 50 mins, Sweden - two hours 30 mins, Norway - two hours.
Getting around
There is an extensive bus network, but some services are infrequent so check before you travel. A system of post buses, similar to the UK, serve more outlying areas or you may prefer to rely on a car. Even in snowy winter, roads are kept clear. As there are so few cars on the roads, you're unlikely to meet any traffic jams. Trekking is one of the most popular ways of getting around - along the way you'll find many wilderness huts to rest or overnight in.
Currency
Finland - the euro, Sweden - the Swedish Krona, Norway - the Norwegian Krone.
Costs
Will vary from country to country but as a rough guide a beer is about £2, a moderate restaurant meal for two £20-£30, a litre of petrol 75p, a short taxi ride £7 and a roll of film £3.
Weather
Lapland's proximity to the Arctic Circle means there's little sun in winter - on December 21 it doesn't rise at all and for two months there's almost no daylight. It's the reverse in summer, when for two months the sun doesn't set. Winter starts in October, quickly followed by the first heavy snowfalls. January is the coldest month with temperatures ranging from -11 to -14C. Lakes are frozen for around six months in southern Lapland and as much as eight months in the north. The average July temperature is 12-16C.
Time difference
Finland is two hours ahead of GMT, Sweden and Norway are one hour ahead.
International dialling code from the UK
Sweden 00 46, Norway 00 47, Finland 00 358.
Voltage
220v
Opening hours
It varies depending on which part of Lapland you are in. Post offices generally open 9am to 8pm, banks at 9.15 or 9.30 am to 3pm or 4.15pm, shops 9am to 5pm or 6pm and until 1pm on Saturdays.
Health - Before you go
Finland, Sweden and Norway have reciprocal medical arrangements with the UK but take a completed EHIC form (from post offices) with you.
Health - When you are there
When trekking in remote northern areas, guard against hypothermia. At the other end of the scale, mosquitoes are rampant in June and July, so take a good insect repellent.
Warnings
If trekking, don't leave litter, be careful with fires and don't tease the reindeer if you want to stay friendly with the locals. Take a good map if you are trekking in remote national park areas.
Emergency
112 for general emergencies, 10022 for police and 10023 for a doctor.
Customs
Yoiking is the Sami tradition of telling stories, describing nature and people and recalling events in song. This distinctive style of singing was banned by Christian missionaries in earlier centuries as they saw it as sinful and heathen.
Pets
Sweden, Finland and Norway are all participants in the Pet Travel Scheme but this takes months to set up so see your vet early for details.
Tipping
Most restaurant and hotel bills include service. Round taxi fares up.
Tourist office
The Finnish Tourist Board, PO Box 33213, London W6 8JX, tel: 020 7365 2512. Or try The Swedish Travel and Tourism Council, 11 Montague Place, London W1H 2A1, tel: 020 7870 5600
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| | Available rental properties in Lapland |
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