Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Portugal / Madeira
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| | | | Review by David MacPherson from Daventry
A lovely place to relax.
1966 all over again
From the Mail on Sunday
Until we got to the Bay of Biscay it was pretty smooth sailing. Then things got a little bumpy.
What was slightly worrying was that the ship was going all over the place - while the captain was sitting next to me enjoying a five-course dinner.
I've been on cruises before and, apart from the fact that I always put on weight, I love them.
The nice thing about cruises is that mix of being on the sea then on land. And seeing a lot of countries in the space of two weeks.
So when former England footballer Dave Watson asked me if I'd be interested in a 1966 World Cup reunion cruise with the lads on the good ship Sundream, I didn't need persuading.
The idea was that we'd talk football to the other passengers and just generally enjoy ourselves sailing to Portugal, Morocco and Madeira. The wives thought it a great idea, too, as they always enjoy seeing each other again.
Sadly, it couldn't be the full team. Our great captain Bobby Moore died tragically young back in 1993 and our boss, the legendary Sir Alf Ramsey, passed away two years ago. But of those of us who survived, only Bobby Charlton couldn't make the cruise because of business commitments.
There was still the same banter and usual mickey-taking. If that's changed at all it's only to have got worse as we've become even more familiar with each other.
There's always been a strong bond between the players. Sir Alf Ramsey created a club environment within a national team and succeeded beyond his wildest dreams. Sir Alf's not here today but he would have been proud about how we still feel about each other.
That's something he was totally responsible for.
Have your cake and eat it
Relaxing, warm and friendly
We have only been abroad twice and both times we have visited Maderia.
After getting over the landing we found Maderia extremely relaxing, warm and friendly. Use the local buses which are cheap and efficient and if you get lost ask a friendly local they are always amused and delighted when you try out some Portuguese words.
Go to the Irish bar in the lido area in Funchal for a good night as hotel entertainment tends to be poor. Do try the black scabbard fish which is delicious and eat in local places which are reasonable.
Travel guide: Madeira
Slide off to mellow Madeira
From the Daily Mail
Tearing down a steep city road on a large toboggan wasn't what I had expected from my first morning in Madeira. I had always thought this little Portuguese island off the coast of Africa was a sedate sort of place. After all, this is where the likes of Churchill came on painting holidays, and well-bred consumptives used to winter (thanks to its subtropical climate, Madeira stays balmy all year round).
Yet my three-mile dash down to the capital, Funchal, from the mountain suburb of Monte, dodging walls, ditches, potholes and oncoming cars, was real heart-in-the-mouth stuff. Ernest Hemingway - a man not exactly deprived of thrills - thought so, too: he claimed his ride was one of the most exhilarating experiences of his life. The toboggans date back to the 1850s when they (along with hammocks and bullock-drawn sledges) were the island's main transport, and rides come complete with white-suited drivers in natty straw boaters.
But my Victorian-style adrenalin rush wasn't the only surprise waiting for me on Madeira. The other was just how quickly the place is hurtling into the 21st century, propelled by generous EU funding. Photographs in tourist guidebooks depict the island as a flowery haze of mists and mellow fruitfulness - a green, volcanic peak jutting out of a calm blue sea, cloaked in forests and stepped terraces that stretch down to the water's edge. They never show Funchal's burgeoning hotel zone, or the legendary Reid's Hotel, sitting magnificently overlooking the sea.
Further along the coast, a mass of concrete tower blocks has sprung up. More are in the pipeline, too - there are plans to increase the number of hotel beds on the island from 22,000 to 24,000 in the next two years. Meanwhile, local civil engineers have risen to the challenge of providing a modern road network for their sheer-sided homeland by blasting a series of tunnels through its volcanic heart, and building some of the highest bridges in Europe. And while this means all sorts of unspoiled inland villages and beautiful countryside are now an easy drive from Funchal, more development is an inevitable by-product.
What's more, in the past ten years, thousands of Madeiran emigrants have streamed back to this small island, having made their fortunes abroad in such places as South Africa and Brazil. It is they who are largely responsible for the rash of ugly modern villas that clog the cliffs and valleys of the south coast with all the trappings of suburbia.
Of course, the steepness of the cliffs means there are hardly any beaches near Funchal, and not a single white, sandy one (most are black pebbles). This is why Madeira has always been bypassed by the mass of tourists who descend each year on the Canaries just a few hundred miles further south. But now - in an explicit bid to expand the holiday industry - Funchal airport is being upgraded, with a new full-length runway opening in 2002.
Travel guide: Madeira
Relaxing but watch out
We had a wonderful holiday in Madeira. Relaxing, good food and good weather.
But watch out for the time share people!
Travel guide: Madeira
Sun times on Porto Santo
It's the sunny, sandy sibling of Madeira which is wooing more and more British holidaymakers.
Porto Santo is in stark contrast to the virtually beach-free landscape of Madeira and now attracts 100,000 visitors a year.
While it may be sleepy, it boasts a top-class golf course designed by Seve Ballesteros, health spa relaxation and many scuba diving opportunities.
British visitors will have to fly to Madeira to get to this idyllic backwater 37km away.
After a three-hour flight to Madeira's capital Funchal, you can take a 20- minute plane ride to Porto Santo.
Or you could spend a few days on Madeira and take the ferry for a two-hour voyage to Porto Santo's capital Vila Baleira.
But what is really the jewel in the island's crown is its 8km stretch of golden beach.
Temperatures average about 20C in February and March so it is just right for water sports such as windsurfing, water skiing, sailing and deep sea fishing.
With just 5,000 inhabitants, the island never feels crowded and the beach is clean and unspoilt with very few large hotels.
The small to price to pay for this peace is that the choice of restaurants is limited.
Dishes include scabbard fish, barbecued chicken "frango" and meat cooked on a skewer called espetada.
The island's tourist bosses want to encourage more golf holidays with its new 18-hole course designed by Seve Ballesteros opening last October.
It's been created to international standards, overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and should appeal to most players.
Travel guide: Madeira
If it's good enough for Ron...
Manchester United's Cristiano Ronaldo's homeland Madeira is a classy sunshine goal for many holidaymakers fed-up with Britain's freezing winter.
And as it's only three and a half hours away by plane it's the perfect place for a midwinter break or long weekend.
Not only does it boast luxury hotels and a fascinating history, but stunning flowers and a landscape dominated by volcanic peaks rising up to 6,000ft.
Relaxation or exploration - the choice is yours.
Temperatures are rarely below the 70s so you can perfect your tan by the pool - beaches are scarce - at one of the dozens of lavish hotels or visit the capital Funchal's many shops.
For the more adventurous, you can explore the island's breathtaking mountains and valleys on foot.
No visit would be complete without tasting the sweet wine which takes its name from Madeira or local delicacy the black scabbard fish.
The wine is best drunk as an aperitif or with a dessert. The fish (espada) - a long, ugly creature with big eyes - is only caught off Madeira and Japan.
It's delicious fried or grilled. Also try the honey cake (bolo de mel) and wild cherry liqueur (ginga).
Madeira is already the destination for 175,000 Britons annually - 70% of all visitors.
Wealthy Brits first came in the 19th century to spend the winter in sunnier and warmer climes.
One highlight not to be missed is the two-mile toboggan ride from Monte to Funchal when you are pushed in a giant wicker basket by two drivers.
It's about £7.50 and follows a cable car journey up to Monte costing £6.50.
Travel guide: Madeira
A classy break
Manchester United's Cristiano Ronaldo's homeland Madeira is a classy sunshine goal for many holidaymakers fed-up with Britain's freezing winter.
And as it's only three and a half hours away by plane it's the perfect place for a midwinter break or long weekend.
Not only does it boast luxury hotels and a fascinating history, but stunning flowers and a landscape dominated by volcanic peaks rising up to 6,000ft.
Relaxation or exploration - the choice is yours.
Temperatures are rarely below the 70s so you can perfect your tan by the pool - beaches are scarce - at one of the dozens of lavish hotels or visit the capital Funchal's many shops.
For the more adventurous, you can explore the island's breathtaking mountains and valleys on foot.
No visit would be complete without tasting the sweet wine which takes its name from Madeira or local delicacy the black scabbard fish.
The wine is best drunk as an aperitif or with a dessert. The fish (espada) - a long, ugly creature with big eyes - is only caught off Madeira and Japan.
It's delicious fried or grilled. Also try the honey cake (bolo de mel) and wild cherry liqueur (ginga).
Madeira is already the destination for 175,000 Britons annually - 70% of all visitors.
Wealthy Brits first came in the 19th century to spend the winter in sunnier and warmer climes.
One highlight not to be missed is the two-mile toboggan ride from Monte to Funchal when you are pushed in a giant wicker basket by two drivers.
It's about £7.50 and follows a cable car journey up to Monte costing £6.50.
Also worth visiting are Funchal's exotic flower, fish, fruit and veg market and its cathedral. There's also the 19th-century Botanical Garden and dolphin-watching trips.
Madeira's best known celebs are Manchester United footballer Cristiano Ronaldo and Big Brother winner Nadia Almada and plenty of well-known Brits have stayed on the island.
During my visit in balmy November, ex-Prime Minister Ted Heath was staying at the five-star Savoy Hotel, Funchal.
Other visitors include Chris Evans and Billie Piper, Baroness Thatcher, Sven-Goran Eriksson and Julio Iglesias.
Madeira is certainly not for the down-at-heel.
Prices can be high - a seven-night stay in January at the four-star Pestana Village and Miramar with bed and breakfast and flight from Gatwick is £627pp with Cadogan holidays.
But there are still bargains to be had. A family of four can pick up a three-course meal for about £45 and a pint of beer can be bought for £1.50.
Just a stone's throw away from Madeira is its very different sister island Porto Santo.
While sand is scarce on Madeira, Porto Santo is blessed with a five-mile beach. A ferry there takes about two hours or a flight from Funchal takes about 20 minutes.
- For more details, ring Cadogan Holidays on 023 80 828313 or see cadoganholidays.com on the web.
Travel guide: Madeira
Refreshingly unpretentious
My wife, myself and our two teenage children, aged 16 and 14, were lucky enough to obtain a late deal to Madeira last year. I have travelled widely and I can honestly say the food in the various restaurants is superb, the weather is ideal - hot though not too much, and the people friendly.
You can arrange to take a coach tour to both the east side of the island and another to the west side - I would advise everyone to take at least one of these as included in the price is a three-course meal of a very high standard and complimentary free drinks.
The people are refreshingly unpretentious and they will admit when things are not as good as they might be. An example of this is the amount of building work that was being undertaken when we were there.
One must understand that this represents the lifeblood of the island in that the tourist industry gives jobs to the builders and, when it is completed, work within the hotels to the local population which in turn supports Funchal itself.
One mustn't get the wrong impression and think of Madeira as a huge building site, it isn't and there is so much beauty to be seen there that it more than compensates for any minor inconveniences.
Finally the best part is, that it isn't overrun by sex-crazed teenagers or blaring discos.
Travel guide: Madeira
Quinta-essential hotels
From the Mail on Sunday
With a few minutes to go to the end of the year 2000, I stood with my wife Margaret on the terrace of a ruined hospital in Madeira's capital, Funchal. The clinic tops a tree-covered hill in the middle of the city, making it the perfect viewpoint for one of the world's most sensational annual firework displays.
Funchal stands in a natural amphitheatre ringed by 3,000ft mountains, with the sea on its southern side. Midnight was signalled by the sirens of half-a-dozen cruise ships assembled in the bay. At once, spectacular rockets were fired from vantage points in the hills, from batteries set up along the seafront and from a fleet of dredgers which had put to sea to add a maritime dimension to the show. For ten deafening and dazzling minutes we did not know which way to look, and it was only after a final sequence of brilliant explosions that we remembered our glasses of New Year's champagne.
We were guests of hotelier Ricardo Dias who, although he comes from a wealthy family, took the job of hall porter at Funchal's renowned Reid's Hotel to learn the business. He did this to such good effect that he was able to found a rival establishment nearby, which became the Savoy.
The ruined hospital belongs to Charming Hotels, the company Dias now runs, and he boldly promises that by September it will be up and running as one of the group's showplaces - part of an ambitious scheme to turn some of Madeira's historic quintas (manor houses) into elegant hotels. The intention is to recreate the Madeira of the 1930s, complete with Palm Court and the group's vintage Rolls-Royce on hand for special journeys, as well as every luxury associated with the 21st century.
Set in beautifully landscaped gardens, the Quinta da Alta Vista (as the hotel will appropriately be called) is just a short walk from the city centre. With 67 bedrooms, it will be the largest in the group, though not so large as to sacrifice the personal touch Dias regards as all-important.
Dias readily admits the idea of turning quintas into hotels is nothing new. In Funchal, we visited the independently-run Quinta Bela Vista and the Quinta da Penha de Franca, both recently and stylishly enlarged. But what Dias wants is to create a linked series of such hotels, to offer a choice of ambience.
Travel guide: Madeira
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| | | | A very exclusive club
We're a very exclusive club, English World Cup winners. Will we be able to expand next year? At the time of the cruise it didn't seem likely but after recent results, who knows?
But I hope the current England team's fans are as polite and considerate as the ones we met aboard ship.
They went out of their way to make us feel very welcome and comfortable. And so courteous . . . always approaching us for autographs in a nice way and always carefully respecting our privacy when we were just walking about the boat.
No doubt the tour organisers, Airtours, had asked them to do so, but these passengers have restored my faith in English football supporters after all that nonsense that can go on at away matches. We all get choked about that and we said so.
Of course the passengers would have been very disillusioned if we had kept ourselves to ourselves. They wanted to talk to us but many couldn't believe their luck at how close they got.
However, this wasn't a hardship for the players because we're from an age when we talked to fans and we formed friendships with them. Having pictures taken with passengers, talking with them at meal times and making ourselves available for signing sessions and informal chats came naturally.
The players are a terrific bunch of lads, very down to earth.
There were the usual cruise events like the captain's cocktail party but also a host of World Cup activities for passengers. Question-and-answer sessions, Question of Sport-style quizzes, discussions on the modern game and an auction of World Cup memorabilia. But the really outstanding events for me have been listening to the speeches from the players.
Jack Charlton was brilliant but Alan Ball's speech was also fantastic - he got a standing ovation after holding the audience captivated for more than an hour.
It was good to hear anecdotes from the rest of the team about what 1966 meant to them personally. And it was also good to realise just how many people are still interested - I discovered that even many of the crew had begged to be assigned to this trip.
Escape to the hills
The signs all point to the fact that more of Madeira is about to sink beneath a concrete coat, yet it's still not difficult to be seduced by its charms. Hire a car and drive just a few miles out of Funchal into the mountains, and you are soon well away from the traffic and the crowds.
The two main routes inland offer breathtaking landscapes. Head north to Sao Vicente and you'll wind uphill through aromatic forests of eucalyptus and pine before the road peters out at the feet of a ridge of jagged volcanic peaks. There are viewpoints up there from which you can see clean across the island. Take the north-west route, and the forest surrenders to an equally dramatic stretch of wild, windswept moorland, where mist sweeps by like smoke from a vast bonfire.
Fabulous flowers are another of the island's assets. The grounds of the dignified old quintas (mansions) in and around Funchal are a gardener's delight, crammed with plants we are used to seeing only in pots growing luxuriantly in the rich volcanic soil. Most also nourish exotic species from as far afield as South Africa, Asia and Brazil - and as Madeira has no summer dry season, there is blossom all year round.
The capital's gardens are irrigated by an ingenious system of levadas (canals) which feed rainwater from the wild and uninhabited north down to the sunny south coast. Today, the levadas and their footpaths have become a tourist resource, offering walkers a winning combination of easy hiking and stunning scenery.
I tried a short hike along the Levada do Furado, which runs east to west across central Madeira, close by the isolated farming hamlet of Ribeiro Frio ('Cold River'). I walked through forests and spreading orchards of apple and pear, past banks of blue agapan-thus and hydrangeas growing wild like weeds along the path.
Our destination was an observation-point called Balces, a string of wooden balconies built into the side of a cliff. It offered tremendous views of Madeira's dramatic central mountain range, including all its tallest peaks. Up there - with not a single sound except the occasional snatch of birdsong - it was easy to imagine that you weren't in the 21st century at all.
Truly a moment to savour for, with mass tourism fast ushering in a new era for the island, it's anyone's guess how many changes the new millennium will bring.
History and diving
And for those looking for history the island has plenty to offer.
The explorer Christopher Columbus visited in 1478 and married the governor's daughter Dona Filipa Moniz, but she died two years later after having his child, Diego.
The house where he is reputed to have lived in Vila Baleira is now a museum which is open to visitors.
For the more energetic there are two dive schools on the island.
The Baleira Diving Centre offers a training course for £220 and charges about £16 for experienced divers with their own gear.
There are up to 20 dive sites including a cargo ship, reefs and at least one cave where you can see stingrays, snappers and groupers. For more information visit jmaia@baleiradiving.com.
And finally for those who really want to relax on Porto Santo, the Vila Baleira Resort and Spa Hotel is the place to stay.
It boasts a thalassotherapy centre with basic treatments for stress, cellulite and rheumatism starting from £11.
A three-night break with Cadogan Holidays starts from £688 per person. For more info, ring 02380 828313 or go to cadoganholidays.com.
Feeling inspired? Book a holiday
Spot the celebrity
Also worth visiting are Funchal's exotic flower, fish, fruit and veg market and its cathedral. There's also the 19th-century Botanical Garden and dolphin-watching trips.
Madeira's best known celebs are Manchester United footballer Cristiano Ronaldo and Big Brother winner Nadia Almada and plenty of well-known Brits have stayed on the island.
During my visit in balmy November, ex-Prime Minister Ted Heath was staying at the five-star Savoy Hotel, Funchal.
Other visitors include Chris Evans and Billie Piper, Baroness Thatcher, Sven-Goran Eriksson and Julio Iglesias.
Madeira is certainly not for the down-at-heel.
Prices can be high - a seven-night stay in January at the four-star Pestana Village and Miramar with bed and breakfast and flight from Gatwick is £627pp with Cadogan holidays.
But there are still bargains to be had. A family of four can pick up a three-course meal for about £45 and a pint of beer can be bought for £1.50.
Just a stone's throw away from Madeira is its very different sister island Porto Santo.
While sand is scarce on Madeira, Porto Santo is blessed with a five-mile beach. A ferry there takes about two hours or a flight from Funchal takes about 20 minutes.
- For more details, ring Cadogan Holidays on 023 80 828313 or see cadoganholidays.com on the web.
Exploring Madeira by hammock
The Quinta da Alta Vista will be right in the heart of town. No further from the centre of Funchal is the already flourishing Quinta Perestrello, near the gardens of Reid's Hotel. The graceful old house and its annexe have 37 bedrooms, all with double-glazing to keep traffic noise at bay. There's a swimming pool in the attractive gardens.
Quinta Perestrello takes its name from Bartolomeu Perestrello, a sea captain who, with Christopher Columbus and Joao Zarco, discovered Madeira in the early 15th century. Columbus married Perestrello's daughter Philippa, and the family occupied a house on the site.
In the 1880s, the present quinta was home for some months to two English sisters by the name of Taylor, who were intrepid explorers of the island, travelling either on foot, in bullock carts, or carried in hammocks borne by a pair of rugged Madeirans - considered a more ladylike mode of transport than riding on horseback. Ellen Taylor wrote a fascinating book called Madeira: Its Scenery And How To See It. It should be reprinted, though I fear the hammocks have gone forever.
A few miles west of Funchal - a 15-minute drive thanks to the new motorway which links the airport in the east of the island to its western end - is Quinta do Estreito, where we stayed. It's in the centre of the main wine-producing area, just above the small seaside town of Camara de Lobos, where Winston Churchill used to enjoy painting holidays.
The old house at the heart of Quinta do Estreito used to be the focal point of one of Madeira's most important vineyards, and is still surrounded by carefully tended vines. The superbly designed gardens feature a field of well-drilled lavender bushes, and many of the herbs and vegetables required by the hotel are grown on the spot.
There's a first-class restaurant in the quinta itself, and in the grounds there's a Madeiran-style adega - a wine store that also serves food, which draws large numbers of locals as well as tourists. The food, much of it cooked in an open, wood-fired oven, is one great attraction, the wine is another, and so is the view. Quinta do Estreito is 1,300ft above sea level and the outlook, shared by the hotel's 48 bedrooms, is sensational.
Above the quinta is the large village of Estreito de Camara de Lobos, with an impressive church and lively market. Just the other side of the village is access to one of Madeira's many spectacular walks, along the Levada do Norte. The levadas are irrigation channels with paths alongside, providing access to the island's magnificent mountains, which rise to 6,000ft.
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| | | | Madeira is a lovely island
The really remarkable thing was that when they screened the Wembley final again, the passengers couldn't have cheered more if they were watching the match live! We were amazed.
Roger Hunt did point out that it would have been very disappointing had we come on the cruise and there been no enthusiasm, but it's been very reassuring to know we're still reasonably popular.
We set sail from Southampton and visited Madeira, La Coruna, Las Palmas, Casablanca, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera and Lisbon before returning home.
Madeira is a lovely island, I've always thought that. Many passengers on the Sundream, who had never seen it before, told me they wanted to come back on holiday.
Our final port of call, Lisbon, proved hectic but enjoyable. We met up with some of the Portuguese players from the 1966 side - many people reckon the best game of that tournament was the semi-final against Portugal - and enjoyed a kickabout at Lisbon's Stadium of Light, where Benfica play.
I have always enjoyed being in Portugal, not just the popular regions like the Algarve but also the lesser known parts. I've been there on holiday and played matches there, and there's no doubt the British enjoy a fantastic relationship with the Portuguese which comes across when you talk to them - they're such friendly people.
Back on our sea-going base Sundream you couldn't wish for better service in every section of the ship. All the facilities are good; the outdoor pool, poolside bar and casino.
Sportsmen might say the gym needs refurbishing but, then again, so does Wembley.
Actually, make that sportsmen and women because tournaments like the World Cup have become international events for everyone. Women want to watch the matches as well as their husbands.
Some people reckon that 1966 was the beginning of women's interest in soccer and certainly many of the well-informed passengers on the cruise were women.
Within a few days aboard I was asked whether we'd like to do another cruise. My immediate answer, and I'm sure it goes for the rest of the players, was Yes, we would.
Maybe the Caribbean next time. Now I'm at the end of my working days it's time to enjoy life a bit!
Sir Geoff Hurst was talking to Max Wooldridge
TRAVEL FACTS:
Airtours Sun Cruises are running a series of themed cruises next year. The Armchair Sportsman voyage departs from Jamaica to Tenerife on April 21, 2002, with several guest speakers on board. Call 0870 4001282.
A walk along the levada
For those with country interests, a star turn in the Charming Hotels family will be Quinta da Levada Real, a substantial estate with a fine 19th-century manor house high up near the wicker-making village of Camacha, a short distance to the east of Funchal.
Many of the trees here belong to the ancient Laurissilva Forest, which survived the Ice Age more securely in Madeira than anywhere else on earth. Others date from the construction of the original mansion 300 years ago, while yet more, such as the Himalayan pine tree and the Cryptomeria from Japan, come from countries where the last occupant of the present house served as Portuguese ambassador.
He was Conselheiro (councillor) Aires de Ornelas, Defence Minister to Portugal's last king. In 1910 he was threatened with assassination by republican renegades and took refuge for 14 days in a mountain cave near the house. He survived, and the place is marked with a shrine adorned to this day with fresh flowers.
The quinta itself will house the public rooms of the proposed new hotel: the guest bedrooms will be in bungalows or cottages suitably sited to harmonise with the beautiful surroundings. As at the Quinta do Estreito, energetic guests will have easy access to levada walks; there are also plans to open an adventure centre on the estate.
The key figure in this development is project manager Rui Dantas, who already runs an adventure sports company (MAPA) in Madeira. Rui bundled us into his Jeep to introduce us to a group associated with Charming Hotels, which has even more unusual plans. The intention of Casas da Serra (mountain houses) is to provide a chain of inns across the island for those who want to explore its beauties on foot but would welcome comfortable lodgings.
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| | | | Building the future while preserving the past
We climbed 5,000ft to the barren Paul da Serra, an extensive plateau not unlike Scotland's Rannoch Moor, then rattled and bumped 1,000ft down what looked (and felt) like an impassable track, to the ruins of Casa do Caramujo, which means, for some unexplained reason, House of the Winkle.
Built by the government in the Thirties to house people constructing levadas, it stands at the junction of an important levada and one of the ancient mountain tracks which crossed the island in days gone by. These tracks were the means by which peasants used to transport produce on their backs to distant markets; the effort involved is almost unthinkable today.
The plan here is to restore and enlarge the existing building (and persuade the government to make the approach track accessible to normal vehicles) so walkers can experience the sensational beauty of this lonely place with its breathtaking views.
One small house which could form a link in the proposed chain, the four-bedroom Quinta Vale do Til, former summer retreat of painter Dr Lemos Gomes, is already active as a self-catering unit. It's perched on the edge of a precipitous ravine, 1,600ft above sea-level, at Ribeira Brava, with dizzying views and easy access to exciting levada trails.
Madeira has changed dramatically in the past 15 years, thanks partly to financial support from the EU. There's a brand-new airport and the roads are much improved. Despite restrictions, large hotels are still going up along Madeira's crowded southern coastline. Some people will find them attractive, no doubt, but many of those who love Madeira think this is not the best way to discover the true quality of an island we all hope will remain one of the most beautiful places on earth.
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| | Destination Guide : Madeira |
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| | | Island of flowers |  | Why go on holiday to Madeira?
The magical Atlantic island of Madeira boasts rugged natural beauty with a flower-strewn countryside basking in a sub-tropical climate. It's famous for its beautiful gardens, unusual tropical plants, wines, churches and museums.
Thanks to its towering green hills and mountains, it's also a popular destination for those in search of a walking holiday.
How much does it cost?
A seven-day self catering package starts at around £500 in July, hotels from £600 in the same period. Flights cost from £150. Prices do vary so be prepared to keep your eye out for bargains.
When should I go?
Madeira is warm throughout the year with averages of 18C (65F) in January rising to 27C (80F) in August. The busy season lasts from April to October, although June tends to be overcast.
Events to watch out for are the annual wine festival, in early September; the carnival in the first week of March; and the delightful flower festival in early May.
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| | | Thrilling toboggan rides |  | What should I do while I'm there?
Visit Funchal, the capital of Madeira. It has a magical backdrop of imposing mountains and deep valleys.
The city itself is picturesque, with an impressive cathedral and a maze of pretty cobbled streets lined with wine shops and traditional flower sellers.
The gardens at Monte and the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens are also worth a visit.
What if I'm feeling a bit more active?
Enjoy a ride on a Madeiran toboggan - carros de cestos - originally used at the beginning of the 19th century by British merchants.These days, the wicker toboggans are steered by two men, whisking tourists down the steep, cobbled streets of the capital.
The coastline, with its deep warm waters, is ideal for watersports such as sailing and deep sea fishing. There are also two excellent golf courses.
Didn't Winston Churchill hang out here?
Yes - he and his wife often used to stay in the spectacular Reids Palace Hotel in Funchal, which overlooks the sea. He relaxed while painting Camara da Lobos and the seacliffs of Cabo Girao, both just west of the capital.
Anything else I should know about?
There are no beaches on the island, but if you fancy a bit of sea and sand you can take a day-trip to the neighbouring "desert" island of Porto Santo (two hours by ferry).
At the far eastern end of Madeira is Ponta de Sao Lourenco, worth a visit for its dramatic views over the Atlantic. It rarely rains here and the landscape is quite different from the rest of the island.
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| | | Let them eat cake | | Where's good for nightlife?
Most of the nightlife on the island is found in Funchal. Pub Number Two, the Alfa Club and Salsa Latina are upmarket bars which all provide a good start to an evening out.
Clubs with a younger crowd are Do Fa Sol and Cafe do Teatro, both located in the downtown area, while The Fugitivo is the most popular nightclub on the island.
Night birds will want to head for the Copacabana at the casino, which stays open until 4am, and Vespas, which won't throw you out until 6 or 7am.
What's the food like?
Exquisite fresh fish from the Atlantic forms the basis of the tasty, local cuisine. The fortified wine that took the island's name, Madeira, particularly loved by the English aristocracy, is an unmissable treat.
Traditional English afternoon tea is served in the upmarket hotels, and fresh fruit and veg such as avocados, mangoes and passion fruit is plentiful.
What should I buy?
Freshly cut flowers on your way to the airport, locally-produced Madeira wine, wickerwork, embroidery and tapestry. Don't forget to pick up a fresh Madeira cake or two!
What is there for children to do?
Kids will enjoy the colourful carnival which takes place in the first week of March. Most hotels organise activities for children and have special separate swimming pools and menus.
Tourist office
Portuguese National Tourist Office, Portuguese Embassy, 11 Belgrave Square, London, SW1X 8PP. Tel: 0845 3551212.
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| | Fact File : Madeira |
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| | | Madeira | | Did you know?
Sir Winston Churchill loved Madeira and spent time on the island painting its spectacular scenery.
Language
Portuguese
Visas
No visa required
Getting there
Fly direct to Funchal from most UK airports.
Flying time from London
Four hours
Getting around
Car hire is recommended. A basic model - eg, a Renault Twingo - costs from £80 for three days.
Currency
Euro
Costs
As a rough guide: litre of petrol 50p; bottle of beer £1.50; moderate restaurant meal £8; camera film £1.50; taxi from airport into town £10.
Weather
July: 18-25C (63-77F), December: 10-19C (50-66F). June tends to be overcast.
Time difference
The same as GMT in winter; GMT plus one hour in summer.
International dialling code from the UK
00 351 91
Voltage
220V; plugs are normally two-pinned, so take an adapter for UK appliances.
Opening hours
Shops open 9am-1pm and 2.30pm-7pm; banks are open 8.30am-3pm, Monday to Friday.
Health - Before you go
No jabs necessary. Pick up an EHIC form from any UK Post Office - it will cover you for medical care.
Health - When you are there
No precautions necessary.
Warnings
Madeira is a rocky outcrop in the Atlantic and there are no good beaches.
Emergency
National emergency number: 112. British Embassy, Rua de Sao Domingos a Lapa 37, Lisbon. Tel: 01 396 1191.
Customs
An historic British influence in Madeira has been infused into the local culture. Traditional afternoon tea is widely available.
Pets
Pets are allowed in under the Pet Travel Scheme but this takes some time to arrange - ask your vet for details.
Tipping
Restaurants and taxis expect 10%. Leave small change at bars and cafes.
Tourist office
Portuguese Tourist Office, 22-25A Sackville Street, London, W1X 2LY. Tel. 09063 640 610.
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| | Available rental properties in Madeira |
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| |  | | Casa Da Rocha, Madeira
Stunning detached villa set in the sunny south west of the island with private garden, pool and magnificent views over the atlantic.
|  | | "Villa Ricardo" with private pool and sea views.
A charming Villa with private pool, located in a beautiful slope above the entrance of the Porto da Cruz village, enjoying uninterrupted panoramic sea view.
|  | | A Casa do Lagar (Big House) Madeira Island
Situated in a peaceful and solitary area with a pleasant climate all year round, it has a spectacularly panoramic view of the sea and mountains.
- 50% reduce for 4 people occupation in Low Season
|  | | Villa Soldado, Fajã dos Padres
A unique holiday house perched over the beach, located in the beautiful Fajã dos Padres, a must go site on the south coast of Madeira island.
|  | | Faja dos Padres bungalow
A comfortable and inviting bungalow, located in the beautiful Faja dos Padres, a biological farm over the beach in Madeira Island
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Holiday Rentals in Madeira |
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 |  | Family and kids (4) | | | Beautiful Scenery (2) |
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