Travel Guides: All Countries / Oceania - Australia / Australia / New South Wales
 |  | Travel Reviews : New South Wales |
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| | | | Spectacular bridge climb
I was lucky enough to be in Sydney whilst the Olympics were on last year and I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. Unlike most English cities, Sydney does not really feel like a city as there are so many beautiful gardens to visit and being right next to the ocean, it sometimes felt like you were a million miles away.
There were lots of places of interest to visit which didn't always mean spending lots of money. The Botanical Gardens are lovely, the Opera House tour is spectacular but I must admit my favourite activity of all was the Harbour Bridge Climb. A three-hour tour takes you through the safety aspects before you begin the climb, the actual climb itself and, of course, the spectacular view once you reach the top. The guides are friendly and helpful, providing historical information. I really recommend anyone who wants a last memory of this beautiful city, to climb the famous bridge.
To fully explore Sydney, I think you need about one month as there is so much to do and see, it is just not possible in a short time.
New South Wales
How I went for gold shopping in Sydney
From the Mail on Sunday
The decision to go to Sydney was taken one cool evening last October.
We were watching the closing ceremony of the Olympic Games on TV. For days, like millions around the globe, we had been entranced by glimpses of this city by the sea. And it wasn't just the athletes that were winning medals. The beaches looked golden, the sea they sailed on was a shiny silver and all sorts of interesting bits looked bronzed. But the decider for us was the sight of a bunch of raw prawns on bicycles as they swept into Stadium Australia to the roar of approval from both Ockers and foreigners.
Finding winter sun in a country that had the ability to laugh at itself. Strewth, the tickets were as good as bought. What the Australians themselves call the 'Olympic Impact' meant that we joined an extra million visitors who popped into Sydney for the New Year celebrations of 2001.
We thought we were quite knowledgeable about the place - a daughter and a niece are working there right now. Yes, we knew about the ubiquitous barbecues, the sports-loving, hard-drinking blokes, their equally tough Sheilas and everything else we had gleaned from Neighbours and Home And Away.
What we weren't prepared for is what a very darling experience visiting Oz's biggest city is - and not only because Sydney contains Darling Harbour (think Soho-sur-mer), Darling Point, Darling River and Darlinghurst.
Darling, too, describes the tiny boutiques on Oxford Street. Crammed full of interesting baubles from embroidered picture frames to made-to-measure frocks à la Grace Kelly (some of them designed to slip off the shoulders of 42-inch hairy chests). Then there's the Sunday open-air market, where the beautiful people come to track down hand-painted furniture, feather chokers and sequin-dusted fairy wings for all ages, all sizes and sexes. Sydney, we discovered, has a powerful gay and feminine side. Unlike the myth, it isn't full of mindless Bonding.
Take Mosman, a northern suburb and home to the Rodeo Drive of the southern hemisphere. The elegant kerb is lined with large, square terracotta pots overfilled with trailing white petunias. These stand guard outside boutiques selling all the usual international designer stuff but also containing shops special to Oz.
Tricologie is full of original furniture and style accessories along the cool lines of the seaside homes of the Hamptons and Nantucket. When you leave your goodies are packed in shiny white bags with lilac ribbon handles. Opposite, Mosmania sells elegantly distressed wireware for flowers and plants, all in shades of clotted cream and cloudy-day grey.
In fact, great shopping has been the big Sydney secret. In the middle of Sydney there is a vast catacomb of malls. Shop after shop selling clothes at about half of the cost of those in the UK interconnect both underground and over-ground. An escalator will take you to your nail bar, a monorail will whizz you past a department store of Harrods dimensions. And in the midst of all this perch al fresco restaurants and bars that will sell you anything from a Greek salad to a Mexican fajita.
New South Wales
Avoid the tourist traps
An absolutely stunning city, with just about everything you could want within a short distance. The harbour area is beautiful, but avoid the shops, bars and restaurants around the Opera House if you can, because they're tourist traps.
The Rocks, on the other side of Circular Quay, is a good place to visit on a Sunday, as there is a brilliant market in the streets. A weekly travel pass is a good way to get around the city. They're available from most newsagents and train stations and give unlimited travel on trains and buses.
Get a good map of the city, as you'll probably find a lot of places are within easy walking distance, but it will also give you bus and train routes. A good train journey is from central Sydney (Town Hall or Central Station) to the North Shore, as it takes you over the bridge and from Milson's Point there's a great view of the harbour. A bonus is that the trains are double-decker.
Avoid Bondi beach at weekends, as it's really busy. To escape the crowds try the cliff walk from Bondi to Tamarama and Bronte beaches. They're much prettier.
New South Wales
Can you really do Oz in a fortnight?
From the Daily Mail
Two weeks to see Australia? It's surely not possible - at least not without the unflagging, Japanese-style 'If it's Tuesday this must be Ayers Rock' kind of tourism, which would be mentally numbing, physically exhausting and - with the cost of internal flights - financially crippling.
However, what you can do in a fortnight, if that is all the time you have, is experience the sheer vastness of Australia and the stunning disparity of its landscapes and climates by spending the first week on the eastern coast and the second on the western one (or vice versa).
On the eastern coast are people, civilisation and nature tamed into greenery as far as the eye can see.
On the west, if you go north any distance from Perth, are isolated settlements struggling to survive in a wilderness that reaches arid fingers of sand and scrub right down to the sea.
Hard-bitten ranchers in the wild west will look at you askance if you start praising Sydney.
Very fine, yes, full of banks and smart suits and high-rises, but what is there for travellers to do, once they've gawped at the view across Sydney Harbour towards the white sails of the Opera House and the bridge?
The shopping's good in Perth, and the beaches are better. What's the fuss about?
But as tens of thousands of visitors who went to the 2000 Olympics can testify, Sydney is quite simply the most beautiful major city in the world.
It refreshes the spirit to sit out anywhere along the blue-beaded necklace of bays and coves linked by the Harbour Bridge and, drink in hand, watch the sun go down over the yachts and ferries.
There is so much waterfront that they are only now converting long-disused 1920s warehouses in a prime position almost underneath the bridge.
New South Wales
A trip of a lifetime
Everybody should visit Australia once in their lifetime. It is the best place ever. The Aussies are some of the frendliest people on earth.
The east coast is like another world. We have been lucky enough to have been twice. Try visiting Coffs Harbour and stay at Nautilus beach resort - it's out of this world.
If you only have one holiday, go to Australia.
New South Wales
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| | | | Eggs benedict on the beach
If you can tear yourself away from credit card alley, the beaches are very darling, too - large half moons untouched by sun loungers or deckchairs. Most have free showers and changing rooms. Australia, a land of immigrants, lays great emphasis on public accessibility and visitors will find much is free.
The beaches - many with barbecuing facilities - are clean and uncrowded. Often there are solid wooden tables and benches under the trees and if you love surfing or tumbling in big waves this is paradise. In the main, the much-talked-about sharks can be identified by their posing pouches.
At magnificent Palm Beach, an hour's drive to the north, you can watch the boats bobbing off Broken Bay or lie facing up the hill and decide which million Aussie dollar home you want most. The planners obviously keep their worries to themselves.
You'll find tinted window-wrapped Hollywood villas rubbing shoulders with Home Counties posh. There is even a fair showing of Elizabethan-style beams. After all, the British were here in a big way, and Queen Victoria's statue still stands guard over one of Sydney's main intersections.
At Balmoral, only ten minutes from the Harbour Bridge, another sandy bay with quieter waves has a large lawn sweeping down to the beach. Here the Thirties-style Bathers' Pavilion has not been left to decay like some public buildings littering our British seafronts. Instead, the town council has restored it to its former splendour and brilliant food is available. On one side there is an inexpensive bistro-style menu. On the other, a four-star restaurant. There is even a cook book, more Pacific Ocean than River Cafe.
On the little seafront near the bandstand we had breakfast at a glass-fronted cafe with a central polished concrete bar, and watched the chef serve up homemade muesli and yoghurt and first-class eggs Benedict.
As the day wears on you find that this is the capital of the coolbag. There were picnics going on all over, from Observatory Point to Bronte Beach, where the Chippa (what would Charlotte and Emily think of the spelling) will do you a barbecue chicken sandwich and chips or dressed crab or lobster.
One welcome innovation from Oz is fusion food - East meets West, a sort of suck it and soy taste that originated in many of Sydney's smart eateries. And it's very healthy too. Eleven per cent of Australia's population is now Asian and enough refugees from the Mediterranean live here to ensure that extra virgin olive oil rather than butter is often proffered. Near the harbour, the Rockpool - one of Sydney's finest nosheries and well worth a visit - has a special plate that magically reveals its star centre when oil is poured into it.
The British place names, the warmth of the locals and the value-for-money prices (about 2.75 Aussie dollars to the pound) means that this is a very friendly holiday. You could get a shock, though, when lying supine by the pool on the roof of the Park Hyatt Hotel you are suddenly assailed by a chorus of 'G'days' from high above, from the thrill-seekers who have paid a hundred dollars for the privilege of climbing to the top of Sydney Harbour Bridge. It certainly makes you cover up your wobbly bits!
Our only regret was visiting the site of our original inspiration - the Olympic stadia out in the less-attractive western suburbs. Enthusiastic young Australians are still serving kangaroo kebabs (I couldn't face one, but the family munched away) and proudly conducting guided tours. There are plans to fill the vast arenas with pop concerts and sporting events. But for now they are just hollow shells. Ah well, back to the beach and the real raw prawns on the barbie!
Sun, sand and six-packs
We stayed in one of these, the Sebel Pier One, with windows giving right out on to the water and the old cast-iron beams and joists cleverly integrated into the walls and ceiling.
We spent a couple of days in the Blue Mountains, but there is enough to keep you in Sydney for a week without looking further afield.
To orient yourself, catch a return ferry to Manly and cycle down the beach promenades to the bushland, stopping off to swim in the Pacific.
In less than a day, you will have an indelible image of how Australia enjoys itself: the beach shorts and palm trees; the sun, sand and six-packs; the fitness fanatics, environmental faddists, surfers and shoppers all hanging out and having a good time.
If you still haven't had enough of the spectacular cityscape, take another half-day and climb to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
You'll be breath-tested before you start; you'll sign a medical form and be given a briefing before getting into your special suit for the three-hour climb - everybody is harnessed.
For somewhere peaceful to recover, try Sydney's Botanic Gardens on Mrs Macquarie's Road.
They are an unsung, under-rated delight: 30 waterfront acres of flowers, fig trees and tropical ferns, and giant fruit bats hanging upside down in the Palm Grove near the excellent restaurant.
Also in the gardens is the home of the first Governor of New South Wales.
The energy with which Australia cherishes its past seems comical, at first, to visitors from Britain, considering that not one stone built upon another exists from before 1804.
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| | | | Ritzy northern suburbs
But if you think of our 1920s as Australia's Georgian period, and our Victorian as Australia's Tudor, you can muster some respect for Cadman's Cottage (1816), the oldest private house in Sydney.
The Rocks area of terraced cottages and cobbled alleys was hammered out of the sandstone by early settlers.
The most astonishing and gratifying change since I was last in Australia 15 years ago is in the quality and sophistication of the food, typically an approximation of Pacific Rim cuisine with native Australian ingredients.
Profiting from our exchange rate with the Australian dollar, we ate good food more often and more cheaply than I ever have in France or Italy.
On our last full day in Sydney we drove to the ritzy northern suburbs of Palm Beach and Whale Beach, swam through the breakers, sat in the sand (bring your own beach umbrella) and ate in the 'original' Whale Beach Restaurant (est. circa 1940).
Under an awning, with a light breeze blowing from the sea 100 yards away, we had a delicious seafood lunch of smoked eel and grilled snapper washed down by a superlative white Riesling - wondering, like thousands of visitors before us, whether Australians enjoyed the best lifestyle on God's earth.
Even so, a week in Sydney is probably enough for most people. Western Australia, four-and-a-half hours away by Qantas jet, is a different proposition.
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| | Destination Guide : New South Wales |
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| | | Exciting Sydney |  | Why go on holiday to New South Wales?
To visit one of the most exciting cities in the world, Sydney. To check out the other side of the world, some amazing national parks and beautiful beaches.
How much does it cost?
The cheapest flights go to Sydney. If you're lucky, you can pick one up from £450 return but expect to pay considerably more. Most visitors stay in Sydney or elsewhere along the coast and take trips inland.
There's a variety of places to stay. Budget hotels in Sydney start around £10 a night and for the same price you can get a hotel/motel room up the coast at popular Port Macquarie or at Byron Bay still further north.
There are B&Bs in Sydney from £15 and a nice, city centre hotel will cost from £45. In the national parks you can camp from £2 to £6 a night for two people.
When should I go?
Remember, their seasons are the reverse of ours. Sydney has a temperate climate with the temperature rarely dropping below 10C (50F). It has a rainy season when it can bucket down between October and March.
Average summer temps are a pleasant 25C (77F) though it can sometimes climb to 40C (104F). Avoid school holidays by not travelling between mid-December and late January, or at Easter.
Up in the Blue Mountains it gets cold enough for snow and skiing between June and August.
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| | | Mountain scenery |  | What should I do when I'm there?
In many visitors' minds Sydney is the heart of Australia and it attracts millions of visitors.
Orientate yourself with a coffee cruise around the enormous harbour and enjoy the best views of the harbour bridge and opera house from the water.
Explore The Rocks - an area of restored warehouses now housing shops and restaurants. Pop down to lively Darling harbour with its oasis, the Chinese garden. Nightlife buzzes with bars, cafes and clubs catering for all types of music and moods.
Is there much to see outside Sydney?
If you fancy a quieter time, head inland for the beautiful Blue Mountains, 104 kilometres west of Sydney, for lush valleys, waterfalls and cliffs.
The Snowy Mountains in the south includes alpine areas, glacial lakes and has skiing in winter and great walks in spring and summer with carpets of wildflowers.
Take a trip to the Hunter Valley and go wine tasting. Float above the valley in a hot air balloon - prices are generally much cheaper than at home.
A pleasant way to see the wineries and not worry about drinking and driving is to take a horse-drawn carriage. Check out Byron Bay, a surfers' dream with great beaches and an "alternative" atmosphere reminiscent of the '60s.
Where can I 'go bush'?
One hour north of Sydney has vast areas of natural bushland. See Bouddi National Park, Brisbane Water National Park, Yengo and Wyrrabalong National Parks, as well as along the Hawkesbury River.
Take a kayak tour or a guided bush walk to visit Aboriginal rock drawings.
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| | | Shop till you drop | | Where's good for nightlife?
If pubs are your scene, there are plenty of nice old ones around The Rocks and Circular Quay areas of Sydney. King's Cross pubs often have live music.
Apart from the famous Opera House, there are numerous theatres in Sydney and you can see Aboriginal dance in several Sydney locations.
A good guide to what's on locally is the Metro section of the Sydney Morning Herald published on Friday.
Outside Sydney you'll usually be limited to local live music with one or two clubs in bigger towns like Port Macquarie.
What's the food like?
A good cosmopolitan mix is on offer. Don't miss lunch or dinner at one of many restaurants overlooking Sydney Harbour - good areas include The Rocks, Circular Quay, Manly, Watson's Bay or Darling Harbour.
As you'd expect, there's lots of great fish along the coast. In resorts like Port Macquarie you can buy seafood straight off the boat.
If you prefer yours cooked, you can't beat fish and chips at Doyle's at Sydney's Circular Quay with a view of the opera house on one side and the harbour bridge on the other.
Sydney and Byron Bay cater particularly well for veggies.
What should I buy?
Sydney has great shopping - try the Queen Victoria building on George Street. There's a large selection of galleries selling Aboriginal art of good quality from £75 paintings to silk-screened T-shirts at just a few dollars.
Check out the weekend flea markets like Paddington Bazaar (every Saturday) for bargains in everything from clothes and jewellery to antiques and curios. Outside Sydney, check out arts and crafts galleries, especially good in Bellingen.
What is there for children to do?
Take a ferry across Sydney Harbour to the world famous Taronga Zoo and Manly, or visit Bondi Beach. The Sydney Aquarium will keep them quiet with its underwater tunnels to observe marine life.
Sydney also has Sega World and for a spot of culture try the National Aboriginal Centre to learn about Australia's native inhabitants.
Outside Sydney there are great beaches and lots of good walking and climbing for children who like the outdoors. In the Blue Mountains, take a ride on the zigzag railway steam train near Lithgow.
Tourist office
Tourism New South Wales, Level 2, Australia Centre, The Strand, London, WC2B 4LG. Tel. 09068 070707 (60p per min).
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| | Fact File : New South Wales |
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| | | New South Wales | | Did you know?
The Blue Mountains get their name from the distinctive blue haze caused by oil evaporating from millions of eucalyptus trees.
Language
English
Visas
British citizens staying less than three months need to get an electronic travel authority (ETA) scanned into their passport through an IATA registered travel agent.
Getting there
Main entry to NSW is a flight into Sydney.
Flying time from London
23 hours, 30 minutes
Getting around
NSW has an extensive rail system. There are internal flights and an explorer bus pass covers a 28km area.
Currency
Australian dollar
Costs
As a rough guide: litre of petrol 30p; pint of beer £1; moderate restaurant meal £10; roll of film £1.50; short taxi ride £4.
Weather
Warm and temperate with plenty of sunshine most of the year. Average summer temperatures (Dec-Feb) are 26C (78F) max. and 19C (66F) min. Winter (June-Aug) is a max. 18C (64F)and min 9C (48F). Water temperatures are around 18C (64F) in winter, 22.5C (72F) in summer. Up in the Snowy Mountains it's cold enough for snow in winter, which provides good skiing.
Time difference
Ten hours ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 61 2
Voltage
The three-pin power outlet is different from ours so you'll need an adaptor for UK appliances.
Opening hours
Generally 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat (though some shops close early on Sat.) Late-night shopping on Thursdays or Fridays. Post offices open 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, and usually shut at noon on Sat. Banks generally shut at 4pm but in central Sydney often stay open later.
Health - Before you go
No jabs needed. The UK has reciprocal medical arrangements with Australia through the Medicare scheme but you have to enrol for this and it won't cover all costs, so travel insurance is still advisable.
Health - When you are there
Sun protection is vital, especially near the water. Wear a hat and good sunblock.
Warnings
Sydney is a relaxed but very populated city - take care of your personal belongings. Abide by water safety rules and swim only at patrolled beaches.
Emergency
Police - dial 000. British Consultate General, Level 16, The Gateway, 1 Macquarie Place, Sydney Cove, Sydney 2000, NSW. Tel. (61 2) 9247 7521.
Customs
Sipping a glass of wine at sunset in Hunter Valley. Hitting the surf at Bondi Beach.
Pets
Australia is now included in the PETS travel scheme under long-haul regulations. However, this is a long and complicated procedure requiring vaccinations, medical check-ups and route planning; it is not as simple as walking on and off a plane with your pet. Therefore the scheme is best suited to those returning from a long stay abroad, rather than the two-week holidaymaker. It takes several months to set up the relevant documentation; see your vet for further details.
Tipping
No general rule. About 10% in restaurants if service warrants it.
Tourist office
Tourism New South Wales, Level 2, Australia Centre, The Strand, London, WC2B 4LG. Tel. 09068 070707 (calls cost 50p per minute).
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| | Available rental properties in New South Wales |
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