Travel Guides: All Countries / Oceania - Australia / New Zealand
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| | | | Wet and wild in New Zealand
After touching down at Auckland Airport, it doesn't take visitors long to realise that this nation's most enduring love affair is with the sea.
Signs outside beckon you into the City of Sails and the airport's other sales are full of America's Cup memorabilia - the biggest show in town until February 2003.
With that in mind, it's impossible to visit the North Island without taking to the sea and there are many options.
Most visitors begin their travels in Auckland - New Zealand's biggest city and a great place to firm up your sea legs.
There are countless cruises from the harbour to islands in the Hauraki Gulf. Rangitoto and Waiheke are the most popular for short trips.
A 12-minute ferry ride to Devonport is a cheaper option and offers a great venue for an early morning coffee.
Once you've navigated Auckland, head for the beautiful Bay of Islands - a three-hour drive away in Northland.
Base yourself in Paihia or the more romantic Russell and tour the coves and beaches of its 150 beautiful islands.
Wonderful tall ships and sailing boats will glide across the turquoise waters as you keep one lazy eye open for dolphins. Day-trips cost about $80 (£26) including lunch.
If you need a bit more of an adrenaline rush, take a speedboat trip from Paihia out to the Hole In The Rock. You'll get a lifejacket for a noisy, wet ride, which combines New Zealand's top attractions - stunning scenery and hair-raising adventure.
Travel guide: New Zealand
The Kiwis are flying
From the Mail on Sunday
Clement Freud once observed: 'I went to New Zealand, but it was shut.' He had a point. While the scenery was so beautiful you ran out of superlatives, things were a little on the quiet side - all dairies and meat pies with a bit of excitement from the annual welly-throwing competition in Tailiape.
Not any more. My late father was a New Zealander and I last visited the family there six years ago. Now was the right time to take my daughters there. Talk about a change: the Sleeping Beauty has woken up and is high on adrenaline. Queenstown, in Central Otago, South Island, is the white-knuckle capital and offers activities which make 'scary' an understatement.
You can hurl yourself off Coronet Peak on tandem hang-glide and admire spectacular views of the Southern Alps, arc between mountains at 106mph as you fly by wire, whitewater raft the Shotover and Kawarau Rivers, or river-surf, board or sledge. Essentially this is white-water rafting without the raft. That leaves jetboating at Number Two in the adrenaline chart and bungee-jumping at Number One.
We went jetboating with Shotover Jet, whose propellerless craft blast up and down the Shotover River Canyon at 50mph. It was exhilarating. We powered through ankle-deep water, inches away from the rock face, blinded by spray. When Carl, our driver, whizzed round in a tight 360-degree turn, I knew what my washing felt like on the spin cycle.
Queenstown is a year-round resort, idyllically set beside Lake Wakatipu with the Remarkable Mountains behind. There's a tremendous choice of accommodation to suit all budgets, although some of the lakeside hotels do not do justice to the surroundings. The restaurants are plentiful, varied and serve up imaginative food at slightly higher prices than elsewhere. We ate at Roaring Meg's, in an old gold-miner's cottage. She, together with Gentle Annie, serviced men's needs 100 years ago, but the place now does a very acceptable lamb in herb crust.
I was just congratulating myself on our safe delivery as we left Queenstown, when we passed the Kawarau Suspension Bridge. It's New Zealand's original bungee venue. We went to watch. A Japanese girl, looking vulnerable in a thin pink anorak, was about to jump. But she pulled back, then again. After an abortive fourth attempt she finally plunged off into the gorge below. The crowd cheered.
'Can I have a go?' asked my daughter Amy. 'I don't think so,' I replied. 'Why not?'
'Well, if you really want to, why not try a virtual bungee in the Wellington museum first?'
My cousin David met us when we arrived on North Island. I told him how much we were enjoying ourselves, the food, the scenery and, guess what, Amy had wanted to bungee! 'Oh, well done,' he said, 'She can, when we go to Lake Taupo.' He even got us a leaflet. Thank you so much.
Travel guide: New Zealand
Watching the flocks Kiwi-style
From the Daily Mail
On the last day of Christmas I got sunburned on my knees. It was a fitting end to Christmas with a twang.
The traditional songs had new lyrics: 'five sweaty shearers, four working dogs, three daggy sheep, two paradise ducks and (beefy chorus) a possum in a plum tree.' My chardonnay came in a mug with the legend 'how to make your calves look sexy' under a picture of Friesians wearing stilettos. Jo the stockman changed into a natty pair of floral shorts for the occasion, while one of my hosts, the formidable Granny Puff had taken off her shoes and we were all out on the verandah in the evening sun scoffing green-lipped mussels in wine.
And that's how Christmas ended on a New Zealand sheep station - at about the same time as the first creak of the floorboards in Britain suggested that Santa had landed.
This was Pohuenui Island, in the beautiful Marlborough Sounds, a 10-mile, 6,000-acre spangle of land that climbs steeply to 1,900ft then descends equally steeply down the other side. No Michael Barrymore or Only Fools And Horses Christmas specials here; just five residents, 3,000 sheep and heaven knows how many possums - and it's 25 nautical miles from a shop.
A seaplane had skidded us into the bay two days before with the mail and the last thing I expected to meet in the garden of ugli fruit, tangelos and lemons was a person from Balham. But never underestimate the ability of the Balhamese to get into the crannies of the world, for here was Georgina, also staying for Christmas. We could have arranged to have our chardonnay on Tooting Common, wrapped in a couple of blankets; the conversation would have been much the same.
Georgina and I were on the subject of gropers on the Northern Line when Granny Puff reminded us where we were: 'Ah,' she said, knocking back the whisky, 'you don't get fumbled on Pohuenui unless it is by the one of the possums'.
Travel guide: New Zealand
The bare necessities
I was due to hike one of New Zealand's Great Walks but it wasn't the prospect of razor-thin mountain trails, bad weather or getting lost that worried me.
It was the idea of surviving without a shower for four days.
Finally, I consoled myself with the thought ditching civilisation for the great outdoors meant I'd be too busy sniffing in the fresh air to care about my own personal body odour.
Armed with a tiny rucksack carrying some bare essentials, my sister I set off on our 33km-long trek of the Routeburn Track on New Zealand's South Island.
With the noise of the traffic on Milford Road disappearing fast below us, we climbed through silver beech forest for an hour, before suddenly emerging into a clearing. The pair of us stood in awe as the jagged peaks of the Darran Mountains overlooking the Hollyford Valley stretched before us.
Leaving my sister to soak up the scenery, I took a side trail to a higher viewpoint offering tantalising glimpses of hanging valleys and glittering tarns. The solitude and tranquillity felt wonderful - and for the first time, I felt as if I had shrugged off my urban shackles..until we arrived at our bunkhouse.
The kitchen was sparse, with a gas stove that looked like it had been invented during the ice age.
Thankfully, it worked. We threw some freeze-dried noodles into a pan, added boiling water and ate. It was our daily ration on the trek.
With the washing done, minutes ticked by slowly. There was nothing to do. Getting back to nature was fine in principle, I thought, but a tad dull. Sleep was the only option.
The next morning, we awoke to a blanket of dense fog - and blind panic. Was it safe to go trekking? Ominous warnings about the perils of the trail in bad weather lurched into our minds.
Suddenly, a young warden appeared from the nearby staff quarters - the first person we'd seen since starting the trail. Applying her professional skills of observation, she pointed out that the fog was lifting. She was right.
Reassured, we ventured out, picking our way over a rough rainforest trail, with only birdsong and the crunch of branches beneath our feet breaking the silence.
Occasionally glaciers and mountains poked through the dense foliage but we paused only once at 80m-high Earland Falls, a breath-taking spot where the drizzling water sparkled like a curtain of beads.
Just after midday, we arrived at Lake Mackenzie Hut where we quickly dumped our rucksacks and scrambled over gnarled tree roots to reach an isolated glacial lake.
Without hesitation, we peeled off our clothes and plunged into the ice-cold water for an alfresco dip. I felt clean for the first time in two days.
Back at the lodge, a Dutch guy seated on a bench bathed in sweat and panting hard. Breathlessly, he told us he was running the entire track non-stop in one day, before he sprinted off into the the forest under our astonished gazes. Suddenly, our four day walk seemed very feeble.
Travel guide: New Zealand
Breath-taking scenery
New Zealand is a very friendly country and you are always made to feel at home.
On both of my trips, I spent two-three weeks touring around both the north and south islands. The scenery is nothing short of breath-taking.
A wonderful destination for a relaxing break.
Travel guide: New Zealand
Auckland's cup brimmeth over
Things might be all doom and gloom for the home side but Auckland is still buzzing with the America's Cup.
It's summer time and although there are hundreds of other things to do in New Zealand's biggest city, the cup is the focal point for many people's visits.
Whether you're out there in the Hauraki Gulf cheering them on, or at the quayside waving them in, it's a great time to enjoy the City of Sails.
Yachting's biggest international event has been a huge draw for Auckland. Supportive family and friends are in town but holidaymakers can also get in on the action.
The Auckland Visitors Information Centres dotted around the city can book you on various spectator boats.
Whether you're on a speedboat or a tallship, visitors can feel part of the watery experience. And even if you miss the races, you can enjoy the thrill of the cup at any time in Auckland.
There are a number of ex-cup yachts that reside in the Viaduct Harbour awaiting charter from keen racers. Even first-time sailors can get involved, grinding the sails if they fancy.
Day trips cost from NZ$80 (£30) - not too much to experience conditions on a world-class yacht.
Travel guide: New Zealand
Freefall fun in New Zealand
Nothing had prepared me from the insane realisation that I was about to jump out of a perfectly good aeroplane.
Perched on the edge of the open doorway with my stomach somersaulting in terror at the 3,600m drop below, I wondered why I'd agreed to do a tandem sky-dive.
New Zealand might be the adventure capital of the southern hemisphere, but it was the worst time to decide I didn't fancy being a daredevil.
Strapped to my tandem dive master on the edge of the plane, we waited for a signal. Suddenly, we were hurtling through space at 200kph.
With the wind roaring in my ears and my face contorted somewhere between a grimace and a grin, I felt a mix of terror, awe, disbelief and excitement.
Our freefall lasted 60 seconds before the 'chute opened and we swooped gently to the ground, close by Lake Taupo.
My sky dive was an unbeatable adrenaline rush, but for my next adventure I fancied some underwater action.
So it was off to Kaikoura, South Island, for the chance to swim with wild dolphins — something even kids can enjoy.
Kitted in wetsuits, snorkels and fins, we headed out to sea in a boat, eagerly scanning the horizon. It wasn't long before we spotted a pod of duskies.
Around 50 dolphins raced by. We jumped into the sea and tried to woo them closer by singing through our snorkels. Suddenly in the watery gloom, a grey missile whizzed past. In that split second, I was sure the dolphin's smiley grin was meant just for me. Magical.
Travel guide: New Zealand
Adrenalin-loaded adventure
Nothing had prepared me from the insane realisation that I was about to jump out of a perfectly good aeroplane.
Perched on the edge of the open doorway with my stomach somersaulting in terror at the 3,600m drop below, I wondered why I'd agreed to do a tandem sky-dive.
New Zealand may be the adventure capital of the southern hemisphere but it was the worst time to decide that I didn't fancy being a daredevil.
Strapped to my tandem dive master on the edge of the plane, we waited for a signal. Suddenly, we were hurtling through space at 200kph.
With the wind roaring in my ears and my face contorted somewhere between a grimace and a grin, I felt a mix of terror, awe, disbelief and excitement.
Our freefall lasted 60 secs before the chute opened and we swooped gently to the ground on the outskirts of Lake Taupo. Without a doubt, it was the biggest adrenalin rush of my life.
For my next adventure I fancied some underwater action and headed to Kaikoura on the South Island for the chance to swim with wild dolphins.
Kitted in wet suits, snorkels and fins, we headed out to sea in a boat, eagerly scanning the horizon. It wasn't long before we spotted a pod of duskies.
Around 50 dolphins raced by. We jumped into the sea and tried to woo them closer by singing through our snorkels. Suddenly in the watery gloom, a grey missile whizzed past. In that split second, I was sure the dolphin's smiley grin was meant just for me. Magical.
Buzzing from my dolphin encounter, I decided to keep my feet firmly on the ground for my next trip to Franz Joseph Glacier.
Sandwiched between the Tasman Sea and the Southern Alps, this aqua-coloured river of ice is New Zealand's steepest glacier, which made our five-hour, 10km trek tough on both my legs and lungs.
But the sight of towering ice pinnacles drooling melt water was incredible.
As we trudged higher up the glacier, we crossed deep crevasses and scrambled up 60 degree ice faces using ladders and ropes. Some of the arches and tunnels were perfectly sculpted, like works of art.
Although the trek was gruelling, it was a real eye-opener. Who would have imagined that a huge block of frozen water could be so captivating?
Heading back to the North Island, I wound up in Waitomo famous for its 50km labyrinth of subterranean caves, passages and arches.
The big attraction? Miniscule glow-worms — and thousands of them.
To get a closer look, I opted for a black-water rafting trip. This involved pulling on a wetsuit, helmet and gumboots and being handed a doughnut-shaped rubber tube.
We clambered into the cave entrance and were plunged into darkness. Guided by our helmet lamps, we floated through the cavernous maze, tackling gentle water slides en route.
The highlight was entering the Glow-worm Grotto where we gasped at countless pinpoints of blue light twinkling from the ceilings and walls.
So for all you adrenalin junkies, whizz over to New Zealand. You'll be hooked.
Travel guide: New Zealand
The land of Maori legends
This year, we took our summer holiday straight after Christmas. Three weeks in New Zealand — the perfect way to start the New Year.
First stop was Auckland where we stayed in a hotel situated directly beneath the Sky Tower, the highest structure in the southern hemisphere. We spent time in the world-famous museum from where we could see hundreds of little white sails out at sea.
The people were friendly and some incredible art deco architecture remains in the city.
After two days, we headed north to the Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga, New Zealand's most northerly point.
According to Maori legend, Cape Reinga is a spiritual gateway from where departing Maori spirits continue on to Three Kings Island and beyond.
Cape Reinga was windy but the sun was bright and the sea boiled with green-blue surf where the Tasman sea met the Pacific Ocean just offshore.
From the Bay of Islands, we headed south through Hamilton to the thermal region of Rotorua where the landscape is pitted with boiling mud holes and spurting geysers.
Rotorua also introduced us to our first kiwi — a funny little bird with brown feathers and a long beak. We also visited a Maori settlement to eat traditional hangi.
Then we spent one night in the leafy town of Wanganui, before arriving in Wellington where a rainstorm descended. So we spent much of out time in the Te Papa museum.
Out trip across the Cook Strait to the south island was delayed by gales and when we finally boarded the ferry it was late night and the sea was rolling with huge waves.
Upon finally reaching the south island, our first stop was Kaikoura, a tiny town on the east coast and home to wildlife of all sorts.
From Kaikoura, we took a boat trip out to sea to see sperm whales and pretty speckled dolphins. The storm was left behind and later that afternoon we sat in a winery and across the glittering sea we saw whales spurting.
Down the coast a short way was Oamaru where little blue penguins swam in from the sea and rushed up the beach to their nests.
Further south still, we stopped to look at the curious Moeraki boulders and the huge white albatross at Dundedin.
Our penultimate stop was in Queenstown, where we rode the cable car, watched the bungee jumping and took a magical trip to Milford Sound — a fjord with huge green peaks sticking straight out of the water.
We finished our holiday in Christchurch with a poke around the International Antarctic Centre and a trip out to the foggy Banks Peninsula.
Our flight home departed early in the morning and, as the jet engines roared, we left behind us a country full of strange and curious wildlife, peaked mountains, bright blue seas and incredible Maori legends.
We'll certainly be going back.
Travel guide: New Zealand
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| | | | In search of big waves
Those in search of New Zealand's big waves need to leave the tranquil South Pacific on its east coast and head west to the wild shores of the Tasman Sea.
Piha is a fashionable spot and nearby Karekare has grown in popularity since its expansive beaches were featured in Jane Campion's film The Piano.
These are stunning places to visit but the powerful currents make them more suited to surfers than family swimmers.
The Coromandel vies with the Bay of Islands for the title of the country's most beautiful beach.
Lying to the south-west of Auckland, it's a stunning drive to its heart via the Pohutukawa Coast - named after the flame-red trees that bloom in December.
From Whitianga, sea kayak to Cathedral Cove and the fabulous Hot Water Beach, then hire a spade and dig a bath from the thermal springs under the sand.
Even inland there are plenty of watery delights, with the thermal pools around Rotorua being an obvious draw.
There are also gorgeous inland lakes, of which the vast Lake Taupo is easily the most impressive.
You can't avoid water in New Zealand. Rain plays a big part - not least because with little mains water it's what everyone drinks. As the saying goes, if you can't beat it, join it - and enjoy.
Chasing Amy
Lake Taupo is New Zealand's largest lake, 375 miles square and bang in the middle of North Island. It was born noisily when a massive volcano erupted 2,000 years ago. Three volcanoes stand sentinel - Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu, the latter being the one that went off in 1995 and ruined the ski season.
Steam billows out between the trees and the lake can become dangerous in an instant. Taupo is a popular Kiwi holiday spot and many people have a 'bach' or holiday home there. You can fish for trout, tandem skydive relatively cheaply and, of course, bungee. Egged on by her cousins and undeterred by her virtual bungee, Amy still wanted to do the real thing, so we trooped off to the Taupo bungee.
When I saw it, I wished I'd let her jump in Queenstown. The Waikato River swirls through the narrow rocks of Hell's Gate and, sticking out 150ft above, is a cantilevered platform. This is the launch pad. 'Are you sure you want to, Amy?' I asked. 'Yes.' There had been talk of a tandem bungee with her 17-year-old cousin Simon until his mother reminded him of 'that old rugby injury'. Amy was alone.
I tried the 'she's only 13, surely there's an age limit' line, but, no, it depends on your weight. I paid, signed the disclaimer/death warrant and forgave her for her perpetually untidy bedroom. We went to the viewing platform and waited. A noose went round Amy's ankles. She shuffled to the edge. 'Go, Amy, go,' shouted the cousins. 'No, Amy, no,' I whispered. Then it was '3 -2 -1 . . . Bungee!' and she'd gone.
A second of silence followed before the cliffs echoed to her screams and the cousins started whooping. She bounced up and down above the deep blue river, until the recovery boat met her and she collapsed in a breathless heap.
Amy was absolutely glowing when she joined us. 'It didn't hurt at all. It felt like my tummy was left behind, like going over a bump in the car,' she said. 'It's only 35 dollars for a repeat jump.' 'No, Amy.'
New Zealand is a country growing in confidence which describes itself as 'living on the edge.' On the edge of the world and the edge of adventure. It's fresh, fun and, to best appreciate it as a parent, all you need is nerve.
Where time goes backwards
Pohuenui station is run by Brian and Fiona Brakenridge - he, the burly, cheery Kiwi sheep farmer, and she, the garrulous, feminine Canadian. One of them is a former champion shearer - and it isn't Brian. 'I packed in the shearing when I said: "I do",' says Fiona, who now brings up two children while running the elegant wooden farmstead - a sort of World of Interiors meets the wilds, or wopwops as they're called here.
The true wopwops - the native subtropical rainforest - climb up many of the island's flanks, but the homestead, cottage and bunkhouse are grouped together on the fingernail at the end of a long thumb of a bay. Dolphins, penguins and sometimes whales play out in the Sounds.
The island has its own microclimate, warmer than the mainland, which has proliferated a stunning semitropical garden that all but hides the homestead. The trees are heavy with birdlife, particularly the tui, whose unbelievably fluid notes were our angel chimes that Christmas. The garden is Fiona's. 'My gardening involves taking old petals for a ride in a wheelbarrow,' confessed Brian.
Normally we would have been out there, walking, boating or helping to muster the sheep, but it was Christmas and instead we sat around in the sun, eating, talking and enjoying the intimacy of strangers.
Pohuenui was mixing farming with a bit of tourism when Fiona stepped ashore in 1989. She had arrived in New Zealand from Canada for the world shearing championships and liked it so much she joined a travelling shearing gang. At the time, Pohuenui had been on the market and a Canadian property investor put together a syndicate to buy it with the condition that Fiona stay on as farm manager.
With 'no Kiwis in sight to marry', she was beginning to have some difficulties with immigration when, by happy coincidence, Brian chose to visit. Her version: 'He wanted to stay, and I said he could but he'd have to marry me.' His version: 'I fell in love with the land - and Fiona wasn't too bad.' And the land was breathtaking.
The Christmas walk was a surging four-wheel drive up to the highest point for a breathtakingly windy view of hundreds of miles of mountains and sea. On the verandah that evening I was toying idly with a sundial which seemed to have got things upside-down. It was Canadian, explained Brian. 'Welcome to Pohuenui, where time goes backwards, ' he said. And it does.
Breath-taking views
Our most challenging day's trek faced us the next morning - 13.6 kilometres, starting with a zig-zig path weaving up and around a mountain flanked by snow-capped summits splintering the opposite side of the valley. The views were breath-taking.
By lunchtime, we had reached 1,255m high Harris Saddle, considered to be the crown jewels of the Routeburn Track. We understood why when we staggered up the steep, slippery slopes of Conical Hill and were rewarded with a spectacular, 360-degree panorama of aqua-coloured glaciers, razor-sharp peaks, the glint of far-off lakes and just a smudge of blue in the distance - the Tasman Sea.
I grinned. I realised I'd been wrong. This wasn't dull, I thought. This was a moment I would treasure for ever.
Feeling deeply satisfied, we lunched and then resumed our hike past shimmering Lake Harris and over a track embedded with purple and green stones which centuries ago had been carved into weapons and ornaments by the Maoris.
Passing meadows and cascading waterfalls, we continued on to our last bunk house where after six hours on our feet, we collapsed wearily but happily into our beds for the night.
On our final morning, we breakfasted in front of a gurgling river, before ambling through a forest and along the lip of a gorge. Below us roared Sugarloaf Stream. We clambered over boulder-strewn landslides before eventually reaching a suspension bridge, signalling the end of our mini-odyssey.
Scruffy though I was and salivating at the prospect of a meal that wasn't of the freeze-dried variety, a wave of sadness engulfed me.
Swapping civilisation for the great outdoors hadn't been such a awful wrench, after all.
Factfile:
- Most walkers take three days and two nights to hike the Routeburn Track.
- Between late October and late April, advance bookings are essential to guarantee your hut accommodation. Camping is also possible.
- Hut tickets and track passes can be purchased from any Department of Conservation Office or Visitor Centre.
- For further information, contact: Great Walks Bookings Office, Lakefront Drive, PO BOX 29, Te Anau. Ph: + 64 3 249 8515 or email greatwalksbookings@doc.gvt.nz
Crystal clear beauty of the Gulf
In addition to the sleek designs of the America's Cup yachts, you'll be overwhelmed by the beauty of the Hauraki Gulf itself. Dotted with more than 200 islands, the pristine water remains crystal clear and filled with boats throughout the year.
Even if you don't have sea legs, plenty of people have been enjoying the thrill of the America's Cup watching the yachts sail back into the harbour.
The area around the restored Viaduct Harbour teems with open-air restaurants and bars, some with huge TV screens for you to keep up with the action.
When the race is done, you take a glass of New Zealand sauvignon blanc outside to cheer the sailors on their return.
If you want to enjoy the Cup from the great outdoors, Auckland has plenty of good vantage points.
Take the ferry to Devonport and climb North Head hill to see the ships head out or grab cheap eats and watch the bigs screens at Te Wero Island wharf.
At the Telecoms Centre you can uncover the background to the racing. It has interactive grinding and sailing challenges to test your yacht skills.
For a bird's-eye view of the yachts and the whole of Auckland, head up to the observation deck of the 383m-high Skytower.
Much of the race action takes place out of sight but you can catch the majestic yachts and their enormous entourage on their way out to sea on race mornings.
It costs $15 for adults but stop for lunch at the well-priced restaurant and a trip to the observation deck is free.
If you've missed the America's Cup action this time, don't panic. It will be back again in the next few years.
But where? Whether the Swiss challengers Alinghi win or not, it was always going to be a problem. Can you stage an America's Cup in beautiful but landlocked Switzerland?
Or will it return again to New Zealand waters? Looks like the organisers have some planning to do first.
In search of cave-dwelling glow-worms
Buzzing from my dolphin encounter, I decided to keep my feet firmly on the ground for my next trip to Franz Joseph Glacier.
Sandwiched between the Tasman Sea and the Southern Alps, this aqua-coloured river of ice is New Zealand's steepest glacier, which made our five-hour, 10km trek tough on both my legs and lungs. But the sight of water drooling from towering ice pinnacles was incredible.
As we trudged up Franz Joseph Glacier, we crossed deep crevasses and scrambled up 60-degree ice faces using ladders and ropes. It helps if you're fit.
The arches and tunnels we saw were perfectly sculpted. I could never have imagined that Titanic-sized blocks of ice could be so captivating.
It was a real eye-opener, but if you think the trek will be too gruelling, opt for the helicopter tour instead.
Heading back to the North Island, I wound up in Waitomo, famous for its 50km labyrinth of subterranean caves, passages and arches.
The big attraction? Miniscule glow-worms — and zillions of them. To see them, I had to go black-water rafting. It sounded scary, but one look at my kit — helmet, purple shorts, orange gumboots and a doughnut-shaped rubber tube — and I knew I was in for a laugh.
We clambered into the entrance of Waitomo's caves and were plunged into darkness. Guided by our helmet lamps, we floated through the cavernous maze, tackling gentle water slides en route.
It was low on thrills but big on fun. The highlight was entering the Glow-worm Grotto, where countless pinpoints of blue light twinkled all around us.
So all you adrenaline junkies, whizz over to New Zealand. You'll be hooked.
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| | Destination Guide : New Zealand |
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| | | Scenic and friendly |  | Why go on holiday to New Zealand?
Great scenery, friendly people, cheap and varied accommodation, award-winning wines, fresh seafood, plus any number of outdoor activities for the adventurous.
How much does it cost?
A two-week fly-drive in February starts from around the £1,600 mark. A return flight to Auckland can cost from as low as £520, and to Wellington, from £850. It's worth shopping around for a good deal but if you want to travel in peak season, particularly December, you're looking at flight prices considerably higher. Mid-range hotel accommodation costs about £20 a night.
When should I go?
Any time is good, but the warmer months (November to April) are busiest, especially during the school holidays from Dec 20 to the end of January.
Visit before or after this period, when the weather is still warm and there aren't as many other travellers around.
South Island is normally several degrees cooler than the North Island. On average summer temperatures (December to February) range from 50F-70F (10C-21C) and winter temperatures (June to August), from 30F-50F (-1C-10C).
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| | | Adventure sports on tap |  | What should I do when I'm there?
Name any adventure activity and New Zealand will probably offer it.
Try bungee jumping, parachuting, skydiving, abseiling and flying to tramping, mountain biking, skiing, horseriding, rock climbing, caving and cave rafting and any number of watersports.
For the less lively, there's some great walking country.
What's the lie of the land?
New Zealand stretches 1,600km from north to south and consists of two large islands and a smattering of smaller islands. North Island has a number of large volcanoes (including the recently active Ruapehu) and highly active thermal areas.
Visit Auckland, cruise round the Bay of Islands and swim with dolphins.
What about South Island?
South Island boasts the Southern Alps - a spine of magnificent mountains running almost its entire length. Visit the Fox or Franz Josef glaciers.
Go to Christchurch, see Mount Cook or go whale watching at Kaikoura. Tour the wineries of Marlborough. You'll never run out of things to do on South Island.
What dates are there for my Kiwi diary?
Cultural events include the Summer City Programme in January and February in Wellington; and the Marlborough Food and Wine Festival (second week in February, Blenheim).
Check out the International Festival of the Arts (February, even-numbered years only; Wellington), an entire month of national and international culture; and Golden Shears Sheep-Shearing Contest (March; Masterton), a must for lovers of sheep and sweat.
There's also the Canterbury Show Week (November; Christchurch) which has agricultural exhibits, rides and local entertainment.
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| | | Tour the wineries | | Where's good for nightlife?
Everything seems to shut with a bang after dark in the small towns but in the cities there's plenty of entertainment with clubs, bars, pubs, etc.
Auckland has a good range of nocturnal entertainments, although the club scene is pretty quiet during the week. There's a lively theatre scene in Wellington.
What's the food like?
There's not much of a national cuisine. Kiwis are big meat-eaters - the steak is excellent, as is, of course, the lamb. The seafood is also fantastic, with green-lipped mussels, oysters and scallops particularly good.
New Zealand put the kiwi fruit on the map and still produces the fattest and juiciest.
New Zealand has a thriving wine-producing industry and many wineries offer visits and tours - and free tastings.
What should I buy?
New Zealand art reflects Pakeha, Maori and Melanesian heritage. Wood, stone, shell and bone carvings are readily available while larger works such as tukutuku (wood panelling) can be seen in most maraes (meeting houses).
Paua shell, greenstone, greywacke and greenwacke pebbles are often fashioned into jewellery which takes its inspiration from the landscape.
What is there for children to do?
New Zealand is a great place to travel with children. Auckland, Hamilton and Wellington all have zoos.
There are too many amusement parks to list; the largest is Rainbow's End in Auckland - others are Marineland at Napier, Hawkes Bay (close encounters with marine wildlife) and Longridge Park in Rotorua (adrenalin-pumpin' water rides).
Tourist office
Tourism New Zealand, 80 Haymarket, London, SW1Y 4TQ. Tel. 09050 606060 information line (60p a minute).
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| | Fact File : New Zealand |
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| | | New Zealand | | Did you know?
It was discovered by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, who christened it Niuew Zeeland after the Netherlands province of Zeeland.
Language
English, Maori.
Visas
None required.
Getting there
Flights from the UK via Los Angeles or Singapore/Bangkok.
Flying time from London
26 hours.
Getting around
Domestic flights are economical and there is an extensive bus network. There are few main train routes although trains are comfortable, quick and sometimes cheaper than the buses. Car travel is recommended.
Currency
New Zealand dollar.
Costs
Prices are reasonable, as a guide: Bottle of beer £1.70, moderate restaurant meal £12, 36-exposure camera film £3.50, litre of petrol 30p, four-mile taxi ride £5.
Weather
The South Island is normally several degrees cooler than the North Island. On average summer temperatures (December to February) range from 50-70F (10-21C) and winter (June to August) from 30-50F (-1-10C).
Time difference
12 hours ahead of GMT.
International dialling code from the UK
00 64
Voltage
230Hz, 50Hz. Australian-type flat three-prong plugs are used.
Opening hours
Government offices Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm. Shops, Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-12.30pm, late-night shopping to 9pm Thurs or Fri. Small convenience stores and larger supermarkets often open seven days a week until late.
Health - Before you go
No jabs needed. Medical treatment is expensive so make sure your insurance covers it.
Health - When you are there
The ozone layer is said to be particularly thin over New Zealand so a good sunscreen is essential, even when it's cloudy.
Warnings
Beware of the extremely changeable weather, particularly when trekking.
Emergency
Police dial 111. British High Commission, 44 Hill Street, Wellington 1 (PO Box 1812, Wellington), Tel. (4) 472 6049.
Customs
The national obsession is rugby union - playing it and watching it. The national team, the All Blacks, aren't famous for nothing. The Maori culture is prevalent.
Pets
New Zealand is included in the PETS travel scheme under long-haul regulations. However, this is a long and complicated procedure requiring vaccinations, medical check-ups and route planning; it is not as simple as walking on and off a plane with your pet. Therefore the scheme is best suited to those returning from a long stay abroad, rather than the two-week holidaymaker. It takes several months to set up the relevant documentation; see your vet for further details.
Tipping
Becoming more widespread, particularly in major centres where there has been more foreign influence. Tip 5%-10% in a restaurant (not a simple cafe), if you receive exceptional service.
Tourist office
Tourism New Zealand, 80 Haymarket, London, SW1Y 4TQ. Tel. 09050 606060 information line (60p a minute).
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Located on the remote coastal Eastern Bay of Plenty, 2 large fully self contained beach front motel units, ideal location for swimming, kayaks, fishin
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2 Bedroom, Lake Views, sleeps 12, polished Remu floorboards, large verandah, cosy lounge - comfortable, open plan, Hot shower
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Grove Villa is a large colonial house in an excellent location in central Nelson New Zealand and is operating as a Bed & Breakfast. The sale includes freehold land and buildings, the B&B as a going co
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Grove Villa is a large colonial house in an excellent location in central Nelson New Zealand and is operating as a Bed & Breakfast. The sale includes freehold land and buildings, the B&B as a going co
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