Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Cyprus / Cyprus (South) / Paphos
 |  | Travel Reviews : Paphos |
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| | | | Heaven on earth
My spouse and I visited Southern Cyprus this year in April 2006. We stayed in Paphos, hired a car for the week, and travelled all over the southern part of the island.
One day, we travelled to Nicosia - the divided city - and walked on foot across the border into North Cyprus.
We fell in love with Cyprus, and as we were only there for a taster - a week - we did not want to return home.
We could easily pack up here and go and live in Cyprus, either north or south - although cost of living is much lower in the North.
For me, it was just heaven on earth.
Travel Guide: Paphos
They say 2089 BC was a good year for wine
From the Mail on Sunday
In Cyprus the past is literally bursting from the ground. A farmer, ploughing his land, is quite likely to turn up the face of a god and, dutifully taking the mosaic to the Department of Antiquities, is given profuse thanks and has his land taken from under his feet. It is cordoned off, excavated - and another amazing slice of history revealed.
Paphos, on the western edge of the island, has so many places now blinking in the sunlight after many centuries below ground that some of them have been buried again for future generations to delve.
Almost next to the exquisite House of Dionysos, a large car park has been laid above an area that is teeming with treasure. The place needs the car park now for all the people who come and wonder; the extra glories will have to wait. It is an embarrassment of riches.
They cannot decide which to show you first. The place where Venus emerged from the sea in the time of myth, an event commemorated a million times by the sale of pert little goddesses on plastic seashells in the souvenir shops. Or the catacomb of Agia Solomoni, where people hang handkerchiefs from a tree in hope of being cured of an illness. Or the column where St Paul was scourged somewhat ungratefully when he was bringing Christianity to Cyprus. Or the stones, the arches, the rooms, the floors; or the local Odeon, an ancient amphitheatre still used today.
The country at this extreme edge of the Mediterranean's third largest island is low and lush, where bananas grow beside the sea, but it gives way to the wild peninsula of Akamas, with its capes and gorges, and, to the east, the first slopes of the Troodos Mountains. In spring, when the snows have melted on Mount Olympus, rivers and cataracts clatter to the coast and the countryside is embroidered with the wildest and most vivid of flowers, acres of them.
Travel Guide: Paphos
Old Roman sites
It is a great place. The people are friendly, there's lots to do and see with boat trips from the harbour or looking around the old Roman sites.
It's a very interesting place to visit.
Travel Guide: Paphos
Not getting away from it all
A really nice part of Cyprus, with good weather most of the year. The only thing I found off-putting was that most of the restaurants, bars and cafes had English menus, and Pizza Hut, McDonald's and Pizza Express were in evidence too! In other words, not somewhere to get away from it all.
If you stay in Paphos itself, make sure you're not too close to the noisy bars, as there are some all-night discos around. If your hotel is a bit further out, then check how far.
We discovered lots of lovely hotels, with great facilities, that were stuck in the middle of nowhere and held the guests to ransom a bit as it was harder to get into town.
There are great things to see around Paphos - ruined castle, mosaics, museums and tombs, if you like that sort of thing. If you've gone to Cyprus for beaches, Paphos itself isn't that impressive, but a short bus journey takes you to Coral Bay which is really top notch, with lots of stuff to do and good facilities.
For a complete change, try a trip into the Troodos mountains, they're really beautiful. Make sure the trip you choose goes in a four-wheel drive vehicle, as you'll get to see more that way.
Travel Guide: Paphos
Hiring scooters is safe and fun
We went on holiday to Paphos last year and have returned again this year. It's a lovely place with lots to do for adults and children and teenagers.
It's very hot in july - too hot but the weather is just right in May.
I would definitely recommend going. Hiring scooters is also good, safe fun. You drive on the left hand side.
Travel Guide: Paphos
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| | | | Ancient history meets the modern Mediterranean
Paphos for a long time was what the British liked to call 'our secret place'. During the colonial years they built decent suburban bungalows among the lemon trees and often remained there into fortunate retirement. It was difficult to reach then; the roads were high or rocky, or both, and they had the choicest sunsets against which to sip their gin and tonics.
The road is mostly motorway now, reaching 75 miles from Larnaca, the main airport, and so inevitably the outsiders came in. When I first went there 20 years ago, the local tourism authorities had imported a couple of large, white and extremely greedy pelicans as an attraction. Pelicans are still in residence but nobody seemed quite certain where. Paphos has become a metropolis.
The splendid thing about it, apart from its friendly seaside and nine months of sun, is that you can study ancient history almost without getting out of bed. From mine, I could look across the harbour to the broad fortress that defended the port from invaders and pirates. At one point the locals tried to blow it up to stop an occupying army using it. So much explosive was required that someone logically suggested they use the ammunition on the enemy instead.
So it is still there, sitting beside the harbour that remains as Mediterranean harbours should be - limpid, lazy and luminous, with decent cafes and not a lot else doing. The joy is that, scarcely a stroll away, are the houses of the ancients with their wondrous mosaics, the tints as vivid and warm as ever, the expressions on the faces of the gods all too human.
Here is Dionysos, the god of wine, tempting a nymph who is reclining before him and regarding him with extreme suspicion. Here is Apollo, out hunting with his bow and arrows, who has chanced upon not game, but a lady who wears nothing but stockings and a diaphanous scarf with which she makes no real attempt to cover herself.
Dionysos, with his vines, would doubtless recognise the wines of Cyprus today. The islanders claim to have the oldest grapes in the world, dating from 3000 BC. 'They say the 2089 BC vintage is a good year,' joked the wine waiter in the restaurant lapped by the sea at Lakki.
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| | | | Starfishes and snakes
Across the harbour in the noon sun was a line of coloured boats, prows towards us. It was too hot for them even to rock. It was the birthday of Anna Achilleos, our guide, and she was telling the stories of her family. 'My grandfather worked for the British and was very proud of it,' she said. 'In 1945, at the end of the war, his wife gave him a daughter, my auntie, and they called her Nike. Her name means Victory.'
We went to the harbourside at Paphos where a fisherman was taking his time sorting through his small catch. He arranged the fish in a pattern and put a starfish on the top like a finial.
Anna said that we should eat the fish that night and pointed towards a restaurant owned by her mother. Her mother had been an ironmonger, a hotel cleaner, a waitress and now had the restaurant. 'I was never meant to be an ironmonger,' she said as she served us dinner. It was excellent.
Anna also has an aunt called Eftychia, who catches snakes. She lives in the countryside above Paphos and we drove up to see her. She not only caught snakes, she kept them and scorpions, what's more. 'I have only been doing this for a few years,' she said, rubbing her cheek against a dangerous-looking, but patently affectionate, black snake about three feet long.
'I would not kiss the Cyprus adder like this,' explained Eftychia. 'He would bite me and I would die. But I like them. People who see a snake in their house call me and I go and catch it in a bottle. I've got 14 now.'
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| | | | The local body politic
There are small Greek islands almost against the Turkish shore, perhaps only a mile distant, where the Greeks, as a matter of course, go to the mainland for their shopping and the Turks chug over to the island for fish and to get their boats repaired. Whole families know each other and have done so for generations.
On Cyprus, matters are different. The ancient adversaries do some rather sad sabre rattling. The Turks, in the north of the divided island, say the Greek Cypriots are threatening them. The Greeks say they should not be there anyway, that they have removed tens of thousands of the original Turkish Cypriots and replaced them with mainlanders who are now ploughing Greek land and tending Greek vineyards.
While I was in Cyprus one of the occasional confrontations took place. The Greeks brought in some noisy jet fighters to Paphos because the Turks had brought some of theirs into their airfield. Then both sides flew away. Go into a placid harbour and there may well be a grey, small and somewhat elderly-looking warship there. I saw a holidaymaker parasailing and keeping a wary eye on the military helicopter that was cruising around him.
In Nicosia the inquisitive tourist can go through the United Nations barrier, the Green Line as they call it, into the northern, Turkish area, but only after two o'clock in the afternoon. And you have to be back by five or they close the gate. Famagusta, once one of the island's most thriving and interesting towns, is a ghost place. Set on the border, it has little but rats in its streets.
The rivalry has even got to the level of the visitor not being able to buy the deliciously cloying Turkish Delight. It is now called Greek or Cyprus Delight. 'We discovered it first anyway,' sniff the Greeks.
But there is still peace to be found. Away from the sun-basking coast around Paphos, up into the lower slopes of the Troodos, are roaming roads and charming, slightly ramshackle villages where the people are welcoming and will soon sit you at a table under a tree in the local square. It is a good place for sitting down. There are probably more wooden chairs in the streets than in the houses.
Outside each house there is a set of chairs and these are pulled around to join those of neighbours. Other chairs appear from down the street, and in no time the men of the village, in their waistcoats under their thick hats, are discussing matters of apparently global importance. One elder, I saw, had his own upholstered armchair on the pavement. They do everything but call for a vote. The women bring out their own chairs and sew and knit and talk.
If you do not need a gin and tonic before dinner and a hotel bed to recover from the hot day in Cyprus, you can take a different holiday - the tourist office calls it agro-tourism, which unfortunately sounds like something to attract certain English football supporters. This, however, is a calm pastime, living in village houses among rural people, sharing their food, wine and companionship and then moving on to another place. Years ago I would have enjoyed it. Now I have to settle for the gin and tonic.
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| | | | A skull in a silver holder
In the hills behind Paphos a young monk, in a hat like a black chimney, brushes the steps of his monastery. It is a quiet morning; the sort of quiet built into such places. You can see for miles, as far as the sea, but here in the home of Saint Neophytos the eye prefers not to wander, instead peering over a wall into a sunken garden where roses brighten the shade and there is an old well.
The monks seem to have a not-too-difficult life, although the hours may be long. 'Many of them come from countries in eastern Europe,' said the abbot, Father Alexious, a handsome man, willingly posing for a photograph. He is not unaware of the tourist, as well as the religious, function of his charge. He signed a note which allowed us into the chapel of St Neophytos, where the saint's skull is kept in a silver holder.
The monk who had been sweeping the stairs followed us around carefully. They are lucky to have the skull because the good saint's body was lost for years and was only rediscovered by a monk digging for relics late in the last century. How they came to it in the first place is a mystery, for the little saint went to be a recluse in the mountains and, as there was not a convenient church, he dug one out of the mountainside.
The monastery is graced with sumptuous Byzantine frescoes, whose colours are so sharp that they could have been painted yesterday. The New Testament story comes alive. Christ washing the feet of his disciples, each face worth a long study; The Last Supper, with Judas sitting opposite Jesus and stretching a crafty hand towards Christ's fish; the Agony In The Garden, another fascination of faces; and the Crucifixion, full of real sorrow.
The figures of David, Moses and Isaiah appear from the Old Testament but merely as bystanders, messengers carrying scrolls. However, marvellous as they are, these ceilings, these walls of saints, are upstaged by the cool and small stone cell where the saint lived. You need to crouch to enter it but it is most moving in its simplicity.
I sat on his stone bench behind his stone desk; behind me was the stone bed where he lay when his daily labours were done. You can feel that he was there. The monastery even has his signature on a 12th Century document. Saints rarely leave autographs behind. Getting out of the cell is more difficult than getting in. You need to bend rather than crouch to go through the slight door.
You leave the coolness of the little cell and once more you are in the brilliant sun, with the sea in the distance, the groves and the green slopes falling away. The small, good, man must have been very happy, as well as very busy there.
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| | Destination Guide : Paphos |
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| | | Ancient city |  | Why go on holiday to Paphos?
Once the capital of Cyprus, Paphos is filled with reminders of its ancient status. There are Greek temples, Roman frescoes and medieval castles. Limassol, Lefkia and Polis are within easy reach by bus.
How much does it cost?
There are plenty of bargains to be had in this area. As a rough guide, summer self-catering packages start at around £450 and a week's half board at a good hotel is from £550. Return flights are from £150. A night in a three-star hotel costs from £30-£45.
When should I go?
The best weather is in the summer months, though it can get uncomfortably hot - 33C/91F in August.
If you're prepared to take a slight risk with the weather and go in late May or early September, temperatures should still be good, you'll save money and avoid the crowds.
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| | | Roman mythology |  | What should I do when I'm there?
Paphos consists of Kato (lower) Paphos, a pretty harbour which, though largely taken over by tourism, is home to most of the archaeological sites.
Far more pleasant and tranquil is Neo (new) Paphos, which is one kilometre inland. The best sandy beaches are at Coral Bay, 15 minutes by bus from Paphos Town.
Where can I soak up some history?
The Paphos area offers site-seekers plenty of opportunities. The Paphos mosaic floors are a fascinating and well-preserved glimpse into Roman mythology.
They were once in the living rooms of Roman nobles and depict Dionysus - the god of "having a great time" - up to various tricks. The site is open from 8am to 7pm in the summer and admission is around £2.
Exploring the eerie underground Tombs of the Kings is essential. More than 100 tombs, dating back to the third century BC, can be visited.
What's outside Paphos?
Polis is a short trip away and there are frequent buses. This unspoilt, rugged scenery has plenty of lush vegetation to provide cover for rare species of wildlife and is a perfect walking area.
Buses also go to Limassol, which is the second largest city in Cyprus and is excellent for sightseeing and shopping. The old town is full of crumbling houses and mosques.
It's worth hiring a car or taking a tourist excursion to the Troodos mountains with their cool pine and cedar forests and charming villages, climbing to 6,500 feet.
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| | | Cultural cooking-pot | | Where's good for nightlife?
If it's wild nightlife you want, you'd be better off at the other end of the island in Ayia Napa, though Paphos has plenty of bars and restaurants and dining out along the waterfront is popular. Most hotels have their own organised entertainment.
What's the food like?
The island's mixed cultural heritage is highlighted by Cypriot cuisine. Dishes show the strong Middle Eastern influences of Turkey as well as elements from more traditional Greek cooking.
Try a meat or fish meze, a feast made up of about 20 different appetiser-sized dishes, or halloumi, the local cheese that is typically served grilled. Lemons go in everything - try avgolemoni, a lemon and egg soup.
Paphos has lots of fresh seafood and plenty of harbourside restaurants in which to enjoy it. Cypriot wine is very good.
What should I buy?
The old town is a maze of intertwining streets with a range of shops producing local crafts of all kinds, from basketware to pottery. Paphos is famed for its embroidery and Cyprus generally produces good pottery, copperware and lace.
Check out the government-run Cyprus Handicraft Service in Paphos for a range of crafts. Cypriot honey is excellent and an inexpensive gift.
What is there for children to do?
The Paphos aquarium has marine life aplenty. Lots of beaches and watersports should keep kids happy. Most hotels have good pools and plenty of organised activities for young holidaymakers. Cyprus is also good for cycling and nature trails.
Tourist office
Cyprus Tourist Board, 17 Hanover Street, London, W1R OAA. Tel. 020 7569 8800.
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| | Fact File : Paphos |
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| | | Paphos | | Did you know?
Paphos was the name of the mythological daughter of Venus.
Language
Greek and English
Visas
None required
Getting there
Flights go into Paphos airport which is about half an hour's drive from Paphos town.
Flying time from London
Four hours
Getting around
There are regular bus services around Paphos and to all Cyprus's major towns. Car hire is a good option if you're staying longer than a week, and easy as they drive on the left.
Currency
Cypriot £
Costs
Litre of petrol 50p; pint of beer £1.25; moderate restaurant meal £6-£8; 24-exposure film £2.50; short taxi ride £3. These prices are just a rough guide.
Weather
Cyprus is the sunniest island in the Mediterranean, with an average of 300 days sunshine each year. April-May and September-October are the most pleasant months to visit, dry with temperatures between 22-30C (70-85F). Summer temperatures can reach well above 35C (90F), and it can drop to around 10C (50F) during December and January when the high Troodos mountains get enough snow for skiing.
Time difference
Two hours ahead of GMT.
International dialling code from the UK
00 357 6
Voltage
240V, 50Hz AC. Plugs are square three-pin, the same as the UK.
Opening hours
This laid-back island has relaxed opening hours; most shops are open from 8am-7:30pm, taking a long lunch from 1-4pm and closing at 2pm on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Religion is important to Cypriots, so few businesses are open on Sundays. However, many cafes, restaurants and clubs are open until 2am or later throughout the week.
Health - Before you go
No jabs necessary. Though tourists receive free medical attention and treatment for emergencies at the Ambulatory and Emergency Department of Government Hospitals and Institutions, adequate insurance should be purchased to cover in-patient care and any unexpected health costs.
Health - When you are there
Tap water is safe to drink, but over-exposure to the sun can cause sunstroke, heat exhaustion and dehydration, not to mention a nasty sunburn. Temperatures get up into the 30Cs (90Fs) during the summer months, so take it easy, especially during the first few days.
Warnings
Although water is chlorinated, if you have a sensitive stomach it is recommended you drink bottled water which is inexpensive and widely available. Cyprus is basically a safe place for holidaymakers.
Emergency
The emergency number is 199. British Embassy, 23 Mehmet Akif Sokak, North Lefkosia. Tel: 227 2443.
Customs
Religion still plays an important part in Greek Cypriot life. Dress modestly when visiting churches or monasteries.
Pets
Cyprus is now included in the PETS travel scheme. Rabies vaccinations and blood tests are needed before documentation can be issued, and the process takes several months prior to travel - see you vet for details.
Tipping
A small tip for taxi drivers and hotel porters is appreciated and a 10% service charge is normal in restaurants.
Tourist office
Cyprus Tourist Board, 17 Hanover Street, London, W1R OAA. Tel: 020 7569 8800.
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| | Available rental properties in Paphos |
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| |  | | Villa Calista
New (2006) semi-detached, self-catering villa in Kato Paphos. Fully airconditioned. 20 - 30 Minutes walk from main tourist area, old harbour, historic sites and beaches.
|  | | Mandria villa
3 bedroom (sleeps 8) luxury detached villa with private SOUTH facing swimming pool. 10mins to beach, 5 minutes golf courses & 10 mins airport. Child and family friendly accommodation
|  | | Aurora Villa
A well equipped, stylishly furnished 2 bed terraced villa, on a quiet, small development. Large pool. Beach, shops and restaurants in walking distance
|  | | Icarus House, Paphos, Cyprus
3 bedroomed air-conditioned house. Shared pool. Private roof terrace, patios & garden. Many restaurants, shops and bars within walking distance. Read the reviews.
|  | | Villa Thalassa
Situated on the golf resort. Three bedroom bungalow with private swimming pool overlooks the dramatic mountainside of Paphos.
!!FREE USE OF RELIABLE CAR!!
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Holiday Rentals in Paphos |
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