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| | | | A Greek magical Mystra tour
As you approach from the north, the ruins are almost invisible. In the half-light of dawn, they blend like crumbling cliffs into the mountain backdrop.
'You still can't see them?' asks Georgia, my guide. 'There...and there...and there...'
I look to left and right, and suddenly a startling sight emerges. On the steep, shrub-covered hillside the broken ruins of an entire city slowly appear. A castle; a palace; a huge, domed monastery.
This, then, is the fabled Mystra - once the jewel in the crown of Greece's Peloponnese. It's one of the great, lost cities of the medieval world - a thriving metropolis that died suddenly and unexpectedly.
Like Pompeii, it was snuffed out by an outside force. Like Pompeii, its evocative ruins allow a fascinating glimpse into another world. Now, it's being restored.
I'm here to take a trip back through time. Georgia, chief architect of the restoration programme, has promised to guide me back through half a millennium, to the days when Mystra was one of the most fabulous cities of the Byzantine empire.
As the imperial capital, Constantinople (now Istanbul), was besieged - and the once-great empire collapsed into ruins - her philosophers, artists and poets flocked to the safety of Mystra.
It was to this distant city that the descendants of Plato and Sophocles carted their boxes of manuscripts. They read them, they discussed them and, after receiving an invitation to stay with the Medici family, transported them to Italy.
There are many who argue that Mystra's scholars provided the spark that started the Renaissance.
Compared to most Greek cities, Mystra is an upstart. Nearby Sparta was already a ruin when Mystra's myrtlecovered slopes were first cleared of their wild goats. It was not until the 13th Century that the first foundation stones of this great city were laid.
Travel guide: Peloponnese
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| | | | A sweeping panorama
'A Frankish knight called William of Villehardouin built the castle atop the hill,' explains Georgia. 'He was a descendent of crusaders who had colonised the Peloponnese. He was so troubled by warlike tribes that he vowed to build an impregnable castle.'
I ask Georgia if we can climb to the top. 'You go,' she says, pointing guiltily to a packet of cigarettes. 'I can't get up there any more.'
I clamber up the steep scree path. The higher I climb, the more spectacular the view. I have a sweeping panorama across the southern Peloponnese.
The villages of Sparta, Gerakion and Chrisafa lie below. In the distance, a line of purple mountains are enveloped in purple haze. Beyond them lies the picturesque port of Monemvasia.
This lush green landscape is dotted with vineyards, perfumed orange groves and tidy vegetable plots.
Crusader William certainly knew how to build a castle. The sheer hilltop is enclosed with monumental walls.
On the side facing the wilds of Mount Taygetos -home to William's enemies - there's a vertigo-inducing drop into the valley below.
The tribes must have shaken their heads in despair as they watched these foreign knights at work.
William's good fortune was not to last. Captured by the mighty Byzantine army, he tried to flee in disguise. But his goofy front teeth betrayed him.
Although his life was spared, he was forced to hand over his beloved Mystra castle.
I climbed back down to Georgia, who was waiting -cigarette in hand - by the Palace of the Despots.
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| | | | The palace feels Gothic
This rambling ruin is one of the city's glories -an immense series of empty salons and chambers that sit atop a towering bluff of rock.
'We're in the middle of restoring the place,' says Georgia. 'We hope to give some impression of how splendid it once looked.'
This labyrinthine building would have been dripping with opulence. Marbles, mosaics, frescoes and gold - the Byzantines delighted in exotic colours and bold designs.
Even their chapels were a riot of colour.
Georgia leads me up scaffolding and we duck and dive through partially restored chambers and draughty throne rooms. The palace feels Gothic; it could almost belong in rural France.
There's good reason for this. Mystra's rulers married Frankish courtly ladies, who added pointed Gothic windows to their bedrooms, and decorated their walls with fleurs-de-lis.
Georgia says the renovation of Mystra is an arduous job. 'The greatest dangers come from nature,' she says. 'Plants, trees and shrubs run riot if they're not continually hacked down.'
She points to the far end of the city, which has yet to be cleared. The plants are of jungle-sized proportions, quite dwarfing the houses they conceal.
'Their roots invade the foundations, arches crack and masonry is dislodged,' says Georgia. 'It doesn't take much to destroy an old building.'
She leads me down cobbled streets and through long-abandoned markets to the lovely Monastery of the Pantanassa - a six-domed church bedecked with a marble colonnade.
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| | | | Meet the nuns
The dark interior is heavy with the scent of incense, as though the ghost of some Byzantine holy man has just been swinging his censer.
'This is the only building in Mystra that's still inhabited,' says Georgia. 'Come, let's meet the nuns.'
Sister Magdalene welcomes me with a smile. Next thing I know, I'm sitting in her bedroom drinking eau de vie and eating Turkish - oops, Greek - Delight.
It all feels rather improper - I've never lounged on a nun's bed before. Her tiny cell is decorated with icons, lamps and religious pictures, much as it might have been 400 years ago.
Here on this lonely hillside, these few devout women keep alive the spirit of Byzantium. But the future is not looking too bright.
Several nuns have died in recent years and now there are just five left. In a few years, the city's only inhabited building may well be a ghostly shell.
You could spend an entire day at Mystra, clambering over ruins and poking your head into medieval dwellings. And you could spend a week or two in the Peloponnese, visiting classical temples and Byzantine villages.
Dozens of foreign armies passed through this corner of Greece, leaving long-abandoned monuments to mark their passing. But none can quite match the romanticism of Mystra's shattered ruins.
After a long day at the site, Georgia has a surprise in store. 'Professor Sinos is coming to dinner,' she says excitedly. 'It's your lucky day.'
It is indeed. This passionate professor is in charge of Mystra and knows every stone and broken tile. He wants to take me on an imaginary journey through the city of old.
As we munch through mouthwatering platters of grilled sausages and stuffed aubergine, he explains the weird lifestyle of Mystra's medieval folk.
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| | | | The history of ideas
'Every aspect of life was totally dominated by the church,' he explains, 'and people spent much of their time in prayer. There were feasts, saints' days and an endless cycle of services.'
Mystra still has dozens of churches and scores of private chapels. Half the population must have been either a monk or a nun.
'Absolutely,' says Georgia. 'Many people became monks when they retired. Monasteries doubled as old people's homes.'
Mystra's finest hour came in the twilight of the Byzantine empire. As Constantinople was besieged on all fronts, the capital's scholars and philosophers poured into Mystra, bringing with them manuscripts of Sophocles, Socrates, Euripides and Plato.
'The most important scholar was a chap called Plethon,'explains Professor Sinos. 'He used to give philosophy lectures in the marketplace.'
As the townsfolk haggled over carrots and plums, they were given a quick introduction to the teachings of Plato.
'Mystra played a crucial role in the history of ideas,' explains the professor. 'For centuries people had obeyed religious strictures. But Plethon introduced the idea of debate.'
This long-forgotten philosopher saw the city at the height of its glory. But, unbeknown to its inhabitants, there was an ugly cloud on the horizon.
In 1453, the great city of Constantinople fell to the Turks. Just seven years later, Mystra, too, was lost.
To the surprise of Mystra's elite, the Turkish occupation didn't spell the end of the city. It became the seat of the local pasha and grew ever wealthier as the Turks developed its fledgling silk industry.
When the English traveller Bernard Randolph visited in 1671, he found a bourgeois city producing an exotic variety of goods.
For almost four centuries after the Turkish occupation, Mystra retained a provincial prosperity, although its most glorious days already belonged to history.
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| | | | Byzantine churches lay in ruins
When the end came, it was savage and abrupt. In 1825, during the Greek War of Independence, an Egyptian mercenary named Ibrahim Pasha landed in the Peloponnese with the aim of capturing the city.
His arrival coincided with that of a travelling English vicar, the Reverend Charles Swan, who chanced upon Ibrahim near Mystra.
'A stout, broad, vulgar-looking man,' he wrote, 'marked through with the pox.'
When Swan asked him why he'd come to Mystra, the Egyptian was blunt. He said he intended to 'burn and destroy...so it should be profitable neither to the Greeks nor to anyone'.
He said he would not stop until the place was a ruin.
Ibrahim was true to his word. On September 14, 1825, he and his men descended on the city with a fury. Most of the population had long since fled in terror.
Ibrahim, whipped into a frenzy, destroyed what he could, burning, looting and demolishing.
When the Reverend Swan visited Mystra later that evening, he was horrified. 'Not a soul was visible,' he wrote.
'Nothing could equal the desolation.' Some of the greatest Byzantine churches lay in ruins.
The imperial palace was in flames, the once glorious mansions of the Byzantine nobility had been torched and their exquisite frescoes had shattered in the heat.
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| | | | Wander through deserted streets
Swan found much of the town still smouldering,with smashed furniture blocking the streets. 'There were household utensils broken and scattered in every direction,' he wrote. 'A cat remained the only inhabitant.'
Swan was devastated by what he saw. Once this great city had kept alight the torch of Byzantium.
Here scholars and philosophers had rediscovered the learning of ancient Greece. Now, in the chaos of the Greek War of Independence, the population had fled for their lives, never to return.
It could have been the end of Mystra but there was to be a postscript.
For many years the ruins were left to crumble, but in the late 19th Century a curious French scholar named Gabriel Millet paid a visit to the site.
He was astonished by what he found - fragments of palaces, churches and the rambling mansions. His findings were published to wild acclaim and, within a matter of years, the lost city of Mystra was back on the map.
These days it's truly an eerie sensation to wander through deserted streets and abandoned bed-chambers. Is that a shadow in the doorway? Is that a footprint in the dust?
A door slams. A baby cries. As twilight descends on Mystra, the ghosts of Byzantium return.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
British Airways flies from Heathrow to Athens and reintroduces Gatwick flights on June 1, 2003. Call 0845 7733377 or visit http://www.britishairways.co.uk
Holiday Autos offers car hire from Athens Airport. Mystra is about four hours from Athens by road. Call Holiday Autos on 0870 400 0010 or visit http://www.holidayautos.co.uk
For more information, call the Greek Tourist Board on 0207 495 9300 or visit http://www.gnto.co.uk
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| | Destination Guide : Peloponnese |
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| | | Natural beauty |  | Why go on holiday to the Peloponnese?
The southern tip of the Balkan peninsula is an area of great natural beauty. The diverse landscape consists of mountains, citrus groves and splendid beaches. Ancient Greek and Byzantine ruins pepper the region, next to Frankish and Venetian fortresses.
How much does it cost?
Depending where and when you go, £200 to £400 for a seven to 14-night package. Flight-only deals to the Greek mainland start at around £150. There are regular trains and buses from Athens to Corinth (bus £3, train £2-3) and Kalamata (bus £8, train £5-7) at time of writing.
When should I go?
The Mediterranean climate means summers are hot and good for sun worshippers, with temperatures rising to around 35C/95F. Winters are mild, though to the west it can get windy and wet.
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| | | Caves and waterfalls |  | What should I do when I'm there?
It is not the modern towns of the Peloponnese that make the area worth visiting, but its remnants of the ancient past.
The sprawling ruins of Corinth and Acrocorinth are the biggest attraction; the coast has good beaches; and there are excellent museums at Isthmia and Nemea.
Arcadia, the lush and beautiful central region, is relatively untouched by tourism and has a marvellous coastline. The medieval villages of Karitena, Stemnitsa and Andritsena have interesting buildings and gorgeous views.
Sparta, in contrast with its harsh, militaristic ancient past, is a modern and pleasant town with a fine museum and art gallery.
Where did they hold the Olympics?
The western prefecture of Elia is one of Greece's richest farming areas but is most famous for the town of Olympia, site of the ancient Olympic games.
It's always busy, but fascinating nonetheless, with absorbing architecture and a superb museum. The 13th-century Hlemoutsi castle is one of Greece's most impressive medieval structures.
What's up north?
The northern section of the Peloponnese, Achaia, is a popular holiday destination for Greeks.
Highlights include the city of Patras, picturesque Zahlorou with its monastery, and the mountain resort of Kalavryta, which has caves, lakes and the Mavroneri Waterfall.
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| | | Hidden beach treasures | | Where's good for nightlife?
The pretty town of Nafplio (Argolis) is a lively place at night with plenty of bars, restaurants and nightclubs. As Patras is the third-largest city in Greece, there's no shortage of entertainment there, either.
For a unique experience, check out the Air Music Club about one kilometre north of Kalavryta (Achaia) - it's housed in one of the original Boeing 720-68 planes bought by Aristotle Onassis for the launch of Olympic Airways in the 1960s!
What's the food like?
Poultry and rabbit are specialities of the Peloponnese. Kalamata is known for its figs and olives.
Other Greek favourites include tzatziki, a cucumber and yoghurt dip; Greek salad, consisting of feta cheese, olives, peppers, onions and tomatoes with oregano and olive oil; and dolmades - stuffed vine leaves.
What should I buy?
There are no handicrafts especially associated with the Peloponnese, but Greece in general is good for leather, jewellery and ceramics.
What is there for children to do?
A well-kept secret is that the beaches of the Messinian Mani, south of Kalamata, are some of the finest in Greece.
Patras is famous for its carnival, which normally takes place in January-March of every year. The children get their own 'little carnival' - known as The Baby Rally - when they get to dance in the street wearing colourful clothes.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London W1S 2DJ. Tel 020 7495 9300.
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| | Fact File : Peloponnese |
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| | | Peloponnese | | Did you know?
Corinth has been destroyed by earthquakes twice, in 1858 and 1928.
Language
Greek
Visas
None required for EU residents.
Getting there
Kalamata has the only airport in the Peloponnese but international flights are few and far between. There are plenty of buses and trains from Athens and if you're driving down you can go via the new or old national roads. Patras has ferries from Italy and the islands.
Flying time from London
Three hours 45 minutes
Getting around
Bus services are extensive but you'll need to check local and seasonal timetables if you're going off the beaten track. The Pelopponese rail network has two lines - one along the north and west coasts, the other cutting through the centre. Car and motorbike hire also available.
Currency
Euro
Costs
Litre of petrol 50p; bottle of beer £1; moderate restaurant meal £10; 24-exposure camera film £2.50; four-mile taxi ride about £3. All prices may vary.
Weather
Winter temperatures from -1C to 18C (30-65F); summer from 21C to 35C (70-95F).
Time difference
Three hours ahead of GMT in summer, two hours ahead in winter.
International dialling code from the UK
00 30 for Greece, followed by local code
Voltage
220V, 50Hz - you'll need an adaptor for the standard continental two-pin socket.
Opening hours
Banks open 8am-2pm Mon-Thur and 8.30am-1.30pm Fri. Post offices open 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri and till 2pm on Sat. Shops vary - some open seven days a week, some close for very long lunches. Department stores usually open from 8am-8pm but close Sundays.
Health - Before you go
UK citizens are covered for health care on production of form EHIC (from UK post offices). Emergency treatment is free in hospital (though relatives must take food in for patients). However, the health service in Greece is very underfunded and one of the poorest in Europe, so if you'd prefer private treatment, decent travel insurance is essential.
Health - When you are there
Tap water is safe to drink. Sunburn is the biggest danger, especially in summer. Slap on the sunscreen and drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration.
Warnings
Tap water is safe to drink. Be wary of the sun, and pack an insect repellent.
Emergency
Emergency services, tel 166. British Embassy, Ploutarhou 1, Athens 106 75. Tel 723 6211.
Customs
If you are taking medicine, get a note from your doctor as import regulations are strict on all sorts of drugs.
Pets
You may bring your pet to and from the UK provided you have the correct documentation under the Pet Travel Scheme. However, this takes time to set up. See your vet for details.
Tipping
Service is included on restaurant bills but it is customary to leave a small tip; same for taxis.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London, W1R 0DJ. Tel. 020 7495 9300.
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| | Available rental properties in Peloponnese |
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| |  | | Tis Mammys
Six bedroom villa located in the heart of old Nafplio, with great views of the sea and the argolic gulf. Beatiful,spacious garden with orange trees.
|  | | Bikaki Street Tolo
Well equipped self contained apartment in the beautiful Peloponnese. Located in the popular bay of Tolo just 300mtrs from its sandy beaches.
|  | | Woods villa
This a newly built property.
It has 2 bedrooms, bathroom, A fully fitted kitchen and lounge area. It has tremendous views and a swimming pool.
|  | | 40 sqm villa in Nafplio
Perched on a hillside overlooking beautiful Greek countryside and the typical Greek village of Neo Roino.
|  | | 60 sqm villa in Nafplio
The main aim of the architectural style is to highlight the harmony of modern Greek architecture with the surrounding Greek countryside.
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Holiday Rentals in Peloponnese |
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