Travel Guides: All Countries / South America / Peru
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| | | | Challenging trek to a lost city
I'm wearing my warmest tracksuit. Underneath are thermal long johns and a long-sleeved vest. My thick ski socks are pulled up over my knees and I've tugged my woolly hat down over my eyes and ears. Only the tip of my nose is exposed after inching down into my four-seasons sleeping bag. If I don't move a muscle, I'm just about warm enough.
Not that I can move a muscle - after several days trekking the Inca Trail in Peru most of them have completely seized up. It's 2am and I wake up to the dawning realisation that the four litres of water I've drunk that day to keep from dehydrating need instant release.
The rain is pounding on the tiny yellow two-man tent I'm sharing with my trek mate Pauline. I know that outside it's pitch-black and we're camped on a ledge two feet in front of a sheer mountain drop. What the hell am I doing here?
I fumble for my torch and, shivering uncontrollably, try to pull on my soggy waterproofs without elbowing Pauline. Next I retrieve my muddy boots from the bottom of my Therm-a-Rest and reach to undo the zip of the tent. I clamber out and clumsily zip up the tent behind me to keep out the worst of the sheet rain.
There's no way I'm going to make it up the hill to the toilet tent - you wouldn't either if you've ever shared what amounts to a bucket with more than 20 other people (no chemicals allowed up here). I'm careful not to pick a spot behind the tent as it's sloping downwards and we've already got enough leaks to contend with.
My knees scream in protest as I crouch down, and I'm close to tears as the cold rain finds its way inside my hood and down my trousers seeping through to my thermals.
I pass the rest of the night damp, cold and miserable. I'm up long before our 5.30am wake-up call and my spirits don't improve as the rain continues relentlessly while we pack up for the final leg of our four-day trek. I have a brief burst of optimism while eating breakfast. The 30 porters in our group are truly amazing. They have looked after us unbelievably well - waking us up with tea and warm bowls of water, cooking extraordinary meals on calor gas stoves and transporting absolutely everything we need on their backs - all with permanently cheery smiles.
I force myself to drink coca tea as I'm convinced it's the only thing keeping at bay the awful altitude sickness I suffered on arriving in Cuzco at the beginning of the week. It's made from coca leaves - and classified as a Class A drug in the UK because of its use to make cocaine - but it tastes disgusting.
We're all aching, exhausted and irritable. What the hell am I doing here? It had seemed such a good idea last summer when Pauline and I decided to make a pact to mark our 50th birthdays with a challenge to raise money for Breakthrough Breast Cancer.
But I have to admit, we actually "enjoyed" - in a masochistic kind of way - the experience of a lifetime. That rainy morning was the lowest point. For most of the trip we'd been on a high as tall as the summit of Wayna Picchu - our ultimate destination offering spectacular views of Machu Picchu.
The route of the Inca Trail includes an impressive variety of altitudes, climates and ecosystems that ranges from the high Andean plain to the cloud forest. The trail is lined with flowers and the ruins themselves are often covered with the orchids after which they are named.
Within minutes of setting out on our first day, the clouds, which had been clinging soddenly to the mountainside, suddenly vanished like a puff of smoke. A searing sun sliced through the lush vegetation, highlighting the glories of our surroundings - huge, sweeping mountains, abundant with trees and brightly-coloured flowers and the strange music of the many different species of hummingbird that have made their home here in paradise. I cannot find the words to express just how beautiful it is.
But the trail along following the steep and higgledy-piggledy remains of the centuries-old Inca steps is tough. So we felt triumphant when we reached the 4,200m-high Dead Woman's Pass - the highest point on the trail.
Now we were nearing the greatest Inca treasure of all - Machu Picchu. Due to an earlier landslide, we couldn't reach it via the Sun Gate and had to make a detour along an extra punishingly steep descent, followed by a 90-minute trek along a railway line to Agua Calientes.
Many of the shops, hotels and restaurants in the town are built within a couple of feet of the tracks - fortunately there are only three trains a day. Exhaustion and the somehow soothing roaring of the Urubamba River at the back of the hotel soon had us fast asleep despite the excitement of knowing we would see Machu Picchu the next day.
And it was worth all the pain. Five of us decided to climb Wayna Picchu. Only 400 climbers are allowed to make the hour-long climb at any one time. It presents the most difficult challenge of all. It is steep, slippery and in places only inches from sheer drops. The occasional handrail or piece of rope was often the only aid to safety. But when you finally make it, you really are on top of the world. The sun was out, the views of Machu Picchu were stunning and we were overcome with emotion.
This challenge was the hardest thing I've ever done. Would I do it again? I've already sent off for Charity Challenge's latest brochure.
* The trip was organised by Charity Challenge, which operates more than 100 challenges each year. Expeditions include treks, mountain climbs, white-water rafting and community challenges in Africa, the Caribbean, Asia, Europe, the Americas and the Middle East. For more information, call 020 8557 0000 or see www.charitychallenge.com.
* Feeling inspired? Book a holiday
Travel Guide: Peru
The peak rush hour train to Machu Picchu
From the Daily Mail
Every day Peru's Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas, is rediscovered by at least 1,000 tourists who are slowly destroying one of the wonders of the world.
More people now come to this sacred citadel in a week than ever lived there in its 15th-century prime.
And the attempt to improve facilities for international visitors - better hotels, a helicopter service and a planned cable car to replace the bus trip up the mountain - have only made the wear and tear worse.
It's easy to see why so many want to flock here, for every kind of holiday from backpacking to whitewater rafting, mountain hikes and even hippy magical-mystery tours to re-enact the Incas' pagan sun worship.
When I caught sight of the emerald green grass slopes and stone-coloured remains of Machu Picchu, flanked by its awesome, snow-capped peaks, I felt the same sense of wonder I had when I first saw the Taj Mahal. You go expecting to be disappointed. Miraculously, you're not.
For nearly 500 years Machu Picchu was covered by impenetrable rain-forests and surrounded by forbidding granite precipices.
It lay hidden from the gold-hunting Spanish conquistadors, who sought to destroy all traces of an Inca civilisation that had stretched in its heyday to Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador and to the borders of Argentina and Brazil.
The site was first uncovered in 1911 by an American scholar-explorer, Hiram Bingham, later a Senator and Governor of Connecticut.
But Bingham didn't know he had found Machu Picchu: he thought it was Vilcabamba, final refuge of the Incas against the Spanish invaders.
Fifty years later, however, after a massive earthquake had shaken up the scenery, the real Vilcabamba was identified by archeologists, who then realised that what Bingham must have stumbled on was Machu Picchu itself. So there were really two Lost Cities of the Incas, not one, which seems very careless of them.
Travel Guide: Peru
Into the sacred valley
From the Daily Mail
The guard sported a semi-automatic rifle, a thick moustache, and a pair of sunglasses as dark as the underworld.
Beside him a flight of steps led underground to a massive steel door that could have come from Fort Knox.
I tiptoed down, and emerged in a room whose walls glinted and glimmered with hundreds of pieces of gold.
Glass cabinets were stuffed full of vases, brooches, rings, and figurines. Skulls had eyes made of gems; a funerary mask showed a fearsome human face with the fangs of a jaguar, his eyes picked out in turquoise.
A knife with a silver blade and a handle of gold shaped into a mask was deceptively beautiful given its grisly purpose: 'sacrificial knife' said the label.
It was the lure of treasures such as these that brought the first Europeans to Peru nearly 500 years ago - the conquistadors.
Luckily some of the country's treasures escaped even their ferocious greed - among them the exhibits in this private collection, housed in a vault under a private house in a leafy suburb of the Peruvian capital, Lima.
The Museo del Oro, or Gold Museum, is one of the most popular attractions in a country that is packed with breathtaking sights.
Peru is blessed with arguably the most fascinating, and some of the most accessible, archaeological remains in all the Americas.
Add to that some stunning high-mountain scenery, plenty of local, colourful culture, and Peru makes an ideal choice for a first-time visit to Latin America.
Travel Guide: Peru
Machu men on the trail of the Incas
From the Daily Mail
Unless we get there quickly,' said Steve, our tour leader, pointing to a faraway mountain ledge, 'we won't get to camp before dark.' 'Righto,' I replied with a wheeze and tried to put a spurt on. 'And don't try walking too fast at this altitude,' he added, disappearing ahead of me. Walking too fast was never going to be a problem - but the air in the Andes was. There simply isn't enough of it. And this was only the end of the first day, attempting the 'new, easy' Inca trail.
Ever since the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu was discovered and dug out of dense jungle by American archaeologist Hiram Bingham in 1911, tourists from Europe and North America have been walking through the Andes to see it. Over the years it has almost become a pilgrimage for historians, hippies, New Agers, druids and people like me, who imagine that they would like a spot of adventure.
But such has been the strain on the original, higher track that the Peruvian government has opened a new one. Overshadowed by the looming Mount Veronica on one side, it weaves through the Sacred Valley, closely following the river Urubamba, which roars through a pink basalt and granite gorge, 650ft below.
Our group of six undertook to walk about 26 miles in three days, which may not sound very strenuous, but picture the trail as a pyramid, with stone steps going up and coming down over 12 miles on each side, and that is how it felt. The Incas were tiny, barrel-chested people, with enormously strong knees and ankles. They came down from their original home by Lake Titicaca, the highest lake in the world, and founded a mighty empire. Unfortunately, in doing this, they created so many enemies that they decided for safety to build all their fortified homes at the top of giant stone stairways.
This was an extremely good defensive strategy. I for one would never have bothered to think about attacking them. But every year about 20,000 fit, energetic souls try to follow the original trail, through the Sacred Valley, to Machu Picchu. These supercharged tourists cover about 35 miles at 16,000ft. There are even some showoffs, 'Inca runners', who do the whole trail, the equivalent of climbing Ben Nevis, in four hours.
As I huffed and puffed up each slope, I couldn't help marvelling at the quality of the ancient granite paths I was walking on, many with neat edging stones, put there long before the Spanish discovered the New World.
Travel Guide: Peru
Tracing the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
Often top of the list in magazine articles of the "places you must see before you die" is the lost Inca city of Machu Picchu.
The ruins in Peru are sometimes the only reason foreign tourists step foot in South America in their lifetime.
But with more than 300,000 visitors a year, its popularity has rocketed in the past decade, and there are now fears among some geologists that the precarious mountain top site could experience a major landslide.
Situated at the highest point of the eastern Andes at the end of the Inca trail, this archaeological wonder has a tough job retaining its charm against such a tourist onslaught. So is it still worth a visit?
Reaching Machu Picchu need not be difficult. If a four day hike across the Inca trail doesn't appeal, a train journey through spectacular scenery from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (the closest town to the site) will put you within a 20-minute coach journey and 10-minute walk to the site.
For those short of time and breath, and suffering from the fallout of New Year celebrations in Cusco, Km104 is an ideal starting point from which to jump off the train and start a hike.
Several guide books suggest the journey from Km104 takes two days and one night. A good pair of hiking boots, a few bottles of yellow Inca Kola and a pipe playing guide helped us cover it easily in a day.
After leaving the train and crossing a river we pass through a checkpoint (picking up a Machu Picchu passport stamp) to briefly pause at the Inca ruins of Chachabamba before beginning our ascent.
The first part is a little arduous and it is a good few hours before we even set foot on to the Inca trail proper. But orchids, butterflies and a refreshing waterfall accompany us at various points and the view battles with the hike to steal your breath away on several occasions.
Within two to three hours we reach the ruins of Winay Wayna and break for lunch at a trekkers' hotel. For those with time this is a convenient, popular spot to spend the night before leaving pre-dawn to catch sunrise over Machu Picchu.
The distance from Winay Wayna to Intipunku (the Gateway of the Sun) is just over an hour and covers part of the Inca trail. It provides panoramic Andean views of sub-tropical mountains bursting with trees which all resemble broccoli heads from a distance.
A shaft of sunlight slicing through a mountain ridge brings us to Intipunku, the site which offers the first unhindered view of Machu Picchu.
Exhaustion is replaced by exhilaration at this point, as within 30 minutes of a relatively downhill stretch we reach the caretaker's hut, which offers the best vantage point, one that has kept Peruvian postcard sellers smiling for almost a century.
Travel Guide: Peru
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| | | | Beware of the altitude
The nearest city to Machu Picchu is Cuzco, once capital of the Inca empire. A rickety, narrow-gauge train runs between them through the Sacred Valley of the Rio Urubamba, past fields of beans, bananas and sugar cane.
We chose this lazy route to Machu Picchu, a day-return from Cuzco, taking in the valley's astonishing scenery.
Hardier travellers walk the Inca Trail, bivouacking overnight and climbing the sacred mountain at dawn. The helicopter service is a quicker, softer option than both.
Cuzco has a handsome square, Plaza de Armas, where you can drink coffee on a balcony - or, better than Peruvian coffee, which is generally poor, a glass of piscou sour, a bittersweet local aperitif.
There are some splendid hotels, including the Libertador, where we stayed, or the Monasterio, as well as cheaper rooms for as little as a few pounds a night. The streets in the centre are safe to walk in the evening, though tourists are warned about pickpockets, and pedlars and shoe cleaners can be a pest.
Visitors need to beware of the altitude - 12,000ft in Cuzco, and only 1,000ft less at Machu Picchu. The initial effect is like jet-lag, making you feel generally unwell.
It is galling to see old men carrying heavy packs on their backs despite these conditions. Coca tea, freely available, helps to counter altitude sickness.
Machu Picchu has to be the centre-piece of any visit to Peru, but there are many other regions and natural parks to explore, such as Trujillo or the Amazon jungle, the desert coast, the Andes, Arequipa or Lake Titicaca.
Above Cuzco, the fortress at Sacsayhuaman displays the Incas' superlative skill as builders. They may not have developed a written language or even discovered the wheel - but boy, could they build walls.
Giant blocks of granite, weighing hundreds of tons and looking a bit like Henry Moore sculptures, were tongued and grooved to create structures that kept out the elements, including earthquakes.
Avoid mountain sickness
Yet, until quite recently, large chunks of the country remained out-of-bounds to travellers. A Maoist revolutionary group called Sendero Luminoso, the Shining Path, terrorised many of the high valleys of the Andes until the capture of their leader in 1992.
A smaller group, Tupac Amaru, made world headlines in 1996 when it took hostages at the Japanese embassy.
Security forces killed all the rebels, and since then the group has been active only in remote areas, away from the tourist trail.
A bigger threat to the well-being of visitors is altitude. Cusco, the top tourist destination, lies at 11,500ft in the Andes, higher than the vast majority of ski-lifts in the Alps.
The best way to avoid mountain sickness is to take it easy for the first few days.
Luckily Cusco lends itself to low-speed, lazy sightseeing. When the conquistadors arrived here in 1533, this was the capital of the Inca empire, which stretched from modern Ecuador to southern Chile.
Now it's a charming regional capital, and most of the 300,000 population still speak Quechua, the language of the Incas. For them, Cusco means, literally, 'navel of the world'.
You could happily spend a couple of days wandering around, exploring the plazas, churches and monasteries, many of them built on original Inca foundations.
At the lively markets local people dressed in bright fabrics sell a bewildering variety of vegetables as well as fabulous knitted and woven cloths.
Many are made from wool of the native alpaca - a close relative of the llama - soothingly soft, fabulously warm for chilly Andean nights, and great gifts to bring back home.
Spectacular scenery of mountain terraces
No one walking the trail, no matter how fragile they feel, can remain unmoved by the spectacular scenery. The river roaring below us was sacred to the Incas because it reflected the light from the Milky Way or Mayu above. They believed that fertile fluid from the galaxy went into the Urubamba and enriched the valley.
The red soil on every side produced the world's first maize and corn. Today the valley produces 24 types of grain, including the rare Quinoa, 'Inca rice', a tiny seed, high in protein but with no cholesterol, which sells for high prices in health-food shops in Britain. The Incas harnessed altitude and climate to produce diverse agriculture. The lower hills are lined with beans, onions, figs, tomatoes, pineapples and corn. The potato, which originated near Lake Titicaca, still grows on terraces up to 9,200ft. They look so steep that it seems strange that the farmers don't fall off the mountain side.
By day two of the trail, the road sides were blooming with orchid, wild iris, yellow hoya, impatiens, geraniums, and galadia, which are visited by hummingbirds. The only sound was the river below, and occasionally the new narrow gauge railway used to take very lazy tourists up to Machu Picchu.
Along the way local children would appear; girls dressed in thick layers of bright clothing with different shaped hats according to their village, sometimes decorated with the long red petals of the kantu plant. Like the porters, they all wore flat black sandals made out of old tyres. Many looked devastatingly unwashed and thin. Altitude destroys the appetite, so I happily gave them my lunches of chocolate and fruit.
The original trail involves three nights camping, but our route involved spending two nights in tents under the Mayu. By the third day we were mostly sorted out, and all walked at our own pace without worrying too much. At last, feeling increasingly fit, I got into my stride. Somehow I was the first of our group to arrive at the Winay Wayna 'Trekker Hotel,' a concrete monstrosity with a shower for one dollar and a rather seedy bar.
A lost city in the clouds
The caretaker's hut at Machu Picchu affords the most picturesque and strangely haunting view of an Inca city set on the roof of the world.
It's difficult to determine what is most breathtaking - either the ruins or their backdrop. One passing comment made was that it must have been like discovering the Great Pyramids on the Grand Canyon.
Arriving tired and dazed at 5pm, when most of the tourists have departed along with the morning mists is one of the best times to witness this amazing place.
Overlooking Machu Picchu (literally Old Peak ) is Huayana Picchu (Young Peak), while far below on one side is the valley of the Urabamba river.
The ancient ruins, were abandoned by the Incas in the 1530s, who fled fearing a Spanish invasion. The failure of the Spanish to locate the city and the decision of the Incas not to map it meant that it went unseen for almost 400 years, until Hiram Bingham became the first explorer to make the world aware of its presence again in 1911.
At that point it was overgrown by vegetation hiding a veritable treasure trove of gold and silver Inca emblems, items which, as recently as October last year, are still being unearthed.
Today its buildings, constructed by rock quarried on site, can be divided with the help of a local guide into houses, temples, sacrificial altars, kitchens, school rooms and burial sites.
Coaches run hourly from Machu Picchu to the tourist resort of Aguas Calientes at the bottom of the valley. Here cheap overnight accommodation can be found along with a variety of restaurants, where llama and guinea pig make popular local dishes.
After a night spent in a hotel there, we return the next morning, but the Lost City seems different.
Clouds swoop in and envelop the whole region, blotting out its beauty while bus loads of tourists in multi-coloured ponchos rob the place of its serenity and greenness from 9am onwards.
Evidently Machu Picchu does suffer from tourist overload, but attempt to give yourself two different times to see it while in the area and perhaps you'll be lucky on at least one occasion.
As we depart, somewhat alarmingly the cafe at the coach stop starts playing Chris De Burgh songs. It's at this point you begin to wish that the city becomes a little lost again, if only to harness the magic it had when Hiram Bingham discovered it after centuries of being untouched.
- Have you ever been to Peru or somewhere else in South America? Send us your travel review to traveldesk@teletext.co.uk
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| | | | Beer good, champagne less so
The Incas were brilliant artisans and gardeners who used the angles of the sun to create towns that were self-sufficient in food all year and maintained a strict hierarchy in which nobles, priests and workers each had their own place.
In Lima itself, a pleasant city apart from the shanty towns on the mountain slopes all around, the main action is at the colonial-style Plaza Mayor, skirted by the cathedral and the Presidential Palace, where riot troops with tanks are on constant alert in the streets. Five blocks away, reached via the main shopping area, the Jiron de la Union, is Plaza San Martin, where revolutionary pamphlets were being handed out.
The National Museum, and the Gold Museum in Lima, show the exquisitely crafted jewellery and robes that the Spaniards failed to loot.
The district of Miraflores is Lima's entertainment centre, with a bull-ring, nightclubs, and some elegant villas. We stayed on the outskirts, at the well-appointed Country Club.
The sea area nearby has some excellent fish restaurants and the coastal resort of Barranco is just a few miles away. Food is cheap, but not outstanding in quality, apart from cuy (guinea pig), palta rellena (avocados filled with fish or chicken) or ceviche (a mixture of marinated raw fish).
Cristal beer is good, but Peruvian champagne less so - a pity, since my partner and I wanted to celebrate an unforgettable engagement secured on the heights of Machu Picchu.
Travel facts The best time for an inland holiday is May to September; January for the seaside. KLM flies from Heathrow to Lima, via Amsterdam. Details on 0870 507 4074. Bales Worldwide offers packages to Peru, details on 0870 241 3208.
Roast guinea pig
Another cuddly animal is highly prized for different reasons. I couldn't bring myself to order roast guinea pig at any of the local restaurants, but I did spot one in a traditional eatery that arrived on a bed of vegetables, and seemed to give great pleasure to the couple who ordered him.
Eating out should be safe enough providing you stick to bottled water, and avoid fruit that you can't peel and salads - as you would in any Third World country.
In Cusco, in fact, it's easier to find Eurotraveller food than local dishes at numerous cafes selling cappuccinos, pizza, beer and banana pancakes.
These same places advertise an astonishing variety of activities including bungee jumping, balloon rides, abseiling and whitewater rafting.
Most popular of all is hiking in the mountains, and the best-known hike by far is Inca Trail.
Dozens of companies in Cusco offer guided hikes along the 30-mile path, providing porters and cooks for the four-day trip. They all insist that you don't need to be particularly fit, but I'd disagree.
The highest of several passes is called Warmiwañusca, at 14,000ft; four times the height of Snowdon, the name translates as Dead Woman's Pass. I didn't see any corpses, but I did pass several large Americans who looked none too happy.
You don't need to hike the trail to enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery, or stunningly sited Inca ruins. You can reach Machu Picchu by a train which runs direct from Cusco to the foot of the mountain.
This is probably the only Inca settlement that the conquistadors never found and sacked.
Symbolism, mystery and a dark history
At last, after ten hours of walking, almost vertically, I was almost there - Machu Picchu. The first sight is the Sun Gate, two miles from the site. It was positioned there by the Inca religious leaders, so that at the Spring Equinox, every September 23, the light would stream through the gate at dawn.
The descent to the citadel seemed easy, and at 2pm, after catching sight of my first llama, I saw the white granite and quartz of Machu Picchu sparkling below, its Toblerone-shaped walls and deserted craters stretching over four square miles. It lies between mountains, or Apus, that stand up like silver and green knife blades. Down among the fragments of temples and houses, it looks like a good place for a British water-colourist - with orchids, rock roses, birds of paradise, wild begonia and bright weeds poking through the old stones.
But it is a place with layers of symbolism, mystery and dark history. It once had more than 1,000 inhabitants, who worshipped and made blood sacrifices to the Apus and the sun. Its buildings, cut from boulders and put together without mortar, give clues to Inca culture. It was highly sophisticated despite having no knowledge of writing, the wheel or how to make an archway.
When Hiram Bingham arrived, directed there by a local boy, he found only 273 skeletons in the cemetery. The Spanish never found this corner of Eldorado, but for some unknown reason it was abandoned in the 1560s. The inhabitants left taking all their gold with them, and it has never been found.
Ironically, the peace and quiet of the trek fizzle out in this sacred spot. By mid-afternoon, its polished granite walls are bulging with tourists in trainers and floral sweatpants, bussed up from the town below. A proposed cable car will soon be able to deliver 8,000 trippers a day.
Like the ancient Inca priests, the very best time to visit is at 7am. And, if you get all the way there under your own steam, you will, at the very least, feel inspired.
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| | | | Full of treasures
No matter how many pictures you have seen of the ruins, your first sight of the citadel on its high saddle, surrounded by the Andean peaks that tower above the valley floor, is breathtaking.
This 'sacred valley' is home to several other superb Inca sites: Pisac with its lively market, and ruined citadel overlooking a giddying gorge; and Ollantaytambo, with its temple-fortress built into the cliffs behind.
But some of the most impressive ruins are in Cusco itself. Overlooking the city, the fortress of Sacsayhuaman has ramparts 65ft high.
Down in the city the impressive stretch of Inca masonry belongs to the Koricancha, the holiest Inca temple.
The conquistadors built a monastery on the foundations, but it is the intricate Inca stonework that is far more impressive.
The temple must have been dazzling: a cornice of solid gold ran around it, made of 700 sheets, each one weighing 4.5lb. The Spaniards immediately set about ripping it off, sheet by sheet.
They may have looted much of the gold, vandalised vast swathes of the country, and destroyed much of its ancient civilisation.
Luckily for us, though, intriguing pockets remain; the local culture is still fascinating, and the scenery is as spectacular as ever. Peru is, thankfully, still a land full of treasures.
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| | Available rental properties in Peru |
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