Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Slovenia
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| | | | Review by Oliver Henry from Farnborough
It is called The Retreat - and it really is! Set in an Alpine meadow; flowers, snowy mountains, big vistas and total silence. It was just what we needed. Cosy and warn too!
Review by Phil Henderson from Loughborough
Slovenia is spectacular, but if you want to see the best of it you need access to a car. It has so much geography for such a small country, and you really need to get out and about to really get the best from it
Review by Susan Jensen from Inverkeithing
The cities, like the country itself, is a manageable size with cities bristling with well-looked after history and architecture as well as the requisite affluent shopping districts. The countryside is dotted with farms still allowed traditional aesthetics and methods, also very well kept. Mountains are appropriately jagged but not inaccessibly high, lakes are the most swimmable colour imaginable. Eating out is very good value, especially if you are a carnivore/omnivore. The place is stunning.
Alpine adventures in Slovenia
I really didn't know what to expect from my trip to Slovenia, a small Alpine country, formerly part of Yugoslavia and home to just two million inhabitants. What I discovered was a country of enchanting natural beauty and friendly people, offering a host of activities. In short, a perfect destination for a short break or holiday.
My base for the trip was Bled, a delightful town which is completely dominated by a huge glacial lake. When I arrived at my hotel, I discovered my balcony looked out over the lake, onto one of the most stunning views it has ever been my pleasure to enjoy.
Bled has a delightfully peaceful feel, with a castle and cathedral on one side, and a gorgeous chapel on an island in the lake's centre. You can row across to the island if you're feeling energetic, or get rowed on a traditional pletna (a long thin boat which can comfortably cater for a large party of travellers).
The short journey is worthwhile, as is climbing the 98 steps to reach the chapel. The views are beautiful and the small church, complete with its Wishing Bell, is wonderfully quaint. Chances are you'll encounter a wedding party, such is the popularity of getting hitched on the island.
Bled becomes very busy in July and August, while in the quieter months between October and March it is transformed into a picturesque winter wonderland.
In and around Bled there are a number of activities for outdoor enthusiasts, especially if you like watersports. I was full of trepidation initially at the thought of rafting, but I have to admit the experience was an enjoyable and invigorating one – a strange mix of excitement and relaxation.
We rafted on three different rivers, mainly the Sava Bohinjka. Our team of eight helped to paddle, while our expert guide controlled the boat, and after the hour was up, most of us didn't want the experience to end. With Bled rafting, you can also try mountain biking, canyoning and airsoft paintball.
I would strongly recommend you incorporate a walk down the Vintgar Gorge, which is only a short drive from Bled and also close to the rafting, into your trip. Special wooden walkways have been built above the Radovna river, and it's a fabulous way to spend an hour, particularly as the surroundings are pleasantly cool. The Gorge ends at the magnificent Sum Waterfall.
Adventure is clearly embraced in Slovenia, and for those who want to experience an extra buzz, the Adrenaline Park in Bohinj could be right up your street. A 'high ropes course' offers a number of different activities, including a giant swing, which was thoroughly recommended by those in our group who tried it.
When I say there is something for everyone in this wonderfully unspoilt country, it is by no means a throwaway comment. While it might provide a slice of heaven for the outdoor sports enthusiast, there is also much to see for those who enjoy a quieter experience.
Lake Bohinj, a short drive from Bled, has a number of breathtaking sights. You can take a cable car to the top of Mount Vogel, which offers an incredible view of Triglav National Park and the Alps. Look out for the Triglav Mountain, the highest of the many towering peaks, which - as absolutely everybody will tell you - is still seen symbolically as a God with three heads.
We visited the Oplen House museum while in Bohinj, a traditional old house, it offers a fascinating insight into the way people lived in the last century. The entire house is still full of the authentic furnishings of the previous owners.
Ljubljana, the capital city, is perfect for a weekend break, and now it's a low-cost airline destination, there is no excuse not to visit. The centre is small and easy to walk around in a few hours.
A good place to start is the Triple Bridge, built for motorists and pedestrians alike, and not only because it is next to the Tourist Information Office. The nearby riverside flea market, open on Sunday, is delightfully atmospheric, with some fine bargains on offer. Bartering with the locals is part of the fun, although most items seem remarkably cheap anyway. It's easy to spend a whole morning checking out the stalls and relaxing in one of the many cafes and bars. A short walk away is the large open-air market (closed on Sundays), which is also known for its distinctive atmosphere.
Llubljana's Old Town offers a mix of historic monuments and churches, including the striking Cathedral of St Nicholas. You can take a train up to Ljubljana Castle, which looks down on the town from its hilltop perch. The ride takes 15 minutes, passes the main sights and departs every hour from Preseren Square. If you have time, a boat ride through the centre of the city and out to the surrounding suburbs is a lovely way to while away a lazy afternoon.
In winter, skiing enthusiasts would likely head straight for Kranjska Gora, with the slopes catering for all levels, and of sufficient quality that the town hosts men's World Cup races every year. You can also try snowboarding and cross-country skiing, or if you prefer to watch a great spectacle rather than participate, the annual ski jumping competition in Planica, a few minutes' drive from Kranjska Gora, will provide it. We were amazed at the thought that the athletes would attempt such an imposing-looking jump.
It was a strange experience walking round the streets of Kranjska Gora in temperatures approaching 100F, but if you want to go in the winter months, particularly to watch the big events, book early or try nearby Bled.
As far as food and drink is concerned, you won't break the bank. Food can be a mixed bag, and although I haven't been tempted to hunt out wild boar since my return, the fresh fish is sumptuous. If you fancy a beer, prices are roughly half those at home.
Our trip ended as it began in Bled, with its peaceful lake glistening serenely in the early morning sunlight. It is a scene that could never fail to captivate, and it really is the ideal setting for a memorable holiday.
- Crystal Lakes (0870 403 0543; crystallakes.co.uk) offers seven-night B&B packages to Lake Bled from £343. A week's half board package at the four star Hotel Golf costs from £471. Bled Rafting (bled-rafting.si) organises rafting, canyoning, mountain biking and paint balling.
Travel guide: Slovenia
Flying high on watsu
It sounds stupid, but something I did recently made me think that I may now know what it feels like to fly, including the weightlessness, the sensation of the elements rushing past your body and the total, overwhelming feeling of relaxation.
I wasn't flying, of course. That would be ridiculous. But what I was experiencing was almost as bizarre. I was floating in natural, hot spring water in eastern Slovenia, enjoying the wonders of a watsu.
For those of you who aren't health-spa aficionados, a watsu is an adaptation of an ancient Japanese massage technique called shiatsu, the primary difference being that a watsu is performed entirely in water. And it is like a performance as your massage therapist sways you this way and that while you lie there, eyes closed doing absolutely nothing but relaxing.
"That is the key, to relax," said my masseur before we started. "As long as you are completely, 100% relaxed, you will benefit. Just try to fall asleep for half an hour and let me do the work."
So I did, and it was incredible. Moving without having to move, floating without having to think about staying afloat, relaxing as I never had before. In a country full of ways to indulge you, this was the ultimate.
Slovenia, a picture-postcard of a country, boasts a host of first-class restaurants, one of the largest breweries in central Europe and 16,000 hectares of vineyards across 14 different wine-growing regions. So for many tourists, visiting a health spa while you are there is more than just a treat, it's an essential part of your experience.
And health spas in Slovenia are not like the kind of UK health spas. They are more than just a gym and sauna with a couple of Jacuzzis thrown in for good measure. The leisure element plays a big part, of course, but it is combined with medicine and rehabilitation techniques to create a more holistic approach to what locals so aptly refer to as wellness.
Granted, it does seem slightly strange walking past a hospital ward-like medical centre on the way to having your morning massage, but at least you know you are in well-qualified hands.
The watsu I had was at Terme Catez, a spa close to the town of Brezice in the Posavje region of eastern Slovenia, a stone's throw away from the Croatian border. It has 11 thermal water springs, the first of which was discovered in the 18th century and the complex is now Slovenia's biggest natural health resort. A 30-minute watsu costs £28.
I could have tried any number of different, altogether dryer treatments, from a basic sports massage to one administered using hot stones. There were also eight different types of sauna to sit in. But I figured my watsu could not be topped so, after dinner in the fabulous surroundings of the restaurant at nearby Castle Mokrice, I moved on, past the picturesque town of Novo Mesto, to Slovenia's oldest spa town, Dolenjska Toplice.
The first vitarium opened here in 1658, but while the town is full of history, the Dolenjska Health Resort is as modern as they come. It offers health treatments from ultrasonography to electrostimulated lymphatic drainage. But all that sounded far too scary, so I decided to while away the time in the resort's Japanese sweat bath, a giant thermal tub with the water heated naturally to a temperature of 40C.
Travel guide: Slovenia
Slovenia's lakeland escape
Less than three hours after leaving stressful London on a Saturday morning, we were feasting on a fabulous lunch in the beautiful historic quarter of Ljubljana.
Setting out to explore the medieval old town in Slovenia's capital, reminiscent of a mini-Prague, my first question was: "Where are all the people?"
Our guide explained that the city empties at the weekend as locals head to the coast or the mountains to relax. We hit the road to Lake Bled to see what all the fuss was about and arrived to find it shrouded in mist.
The picture postcard lake surrounded by mountains, some still snow capped, has a tiny island in the centre, topped by a pretty church popular for weddings.
We were ferried out to the island by Pletna, a romantic rowboat with a little roof, as no motorised boats are allowed to disturb the peace and tranquility here.
This style of boat has been used on the lake since the 16th century when they carried pilgrims to the island church. Now for 10 euros (£6.70) round trip, the family-operated Pletnas carry tourists back and forth (the local currency is the tolar but many places accept euros).
The rowing style is incredibly graceful, almost balletic and the gentle motion was almost lulling me off to sleep when the oarsman's mobile phone rang and he paused mid-lake to answer it with many apologies and a winning smile.
Once ashore, we hiked up the steep stone steps to the church, the first of many ascents that gave my leg muscles and my cardio-vascular system quite a workout.
According to legend, if you ring the church bell three times, you get your wish. It wasn't easy and defeated all the men in my party but I'm proud to say my bell pealed - it's all in the wrist movement, I said calmly as I rubbed my chafed palms and walked away. Wonder if I'll get my wish?
Back on shore, we visited Villa Bled, one of Tito's old palaces, now a luxury hotel set in peaceful grounds on the lakeside.
But - er, where are all the people? Off doing various activities, said our guide. Like what? Walking, jogging, hiking, riding, cycling and even lake swimming from the public lido or private landings. Summer water temperatures reach a pleasant 25C.
Lake Bled's castle perches impressively on a rocky outcrop and another strenuous climb provided us with some great views over the entire location.
Despite the inclement alpine weather, we moved on to larger Lake Bohinj, stopping at an impressive new indoor waterpark en route. Like a very upmarket leisure centre it was a great place to entertain kids and adults on a less than perfect day.
Aside from impressive pools and waterslides, it featured some smart treatment rooms and spa facilities. Slovenia is a haven for health nuts with good spas and in the alpine regions, plenty of mountain air and outdoor activity to bring a glow to your cheeks. A day at the Bohinj waterpark is from around £5.
A cruise on Lake Bohinj took in some dramatic fjord-like scenery on the edge of the Triglav national park.
This area once produced many varieties of cheese and a visit to the Dairy Museum revealed the rustic way of life now long gone.
We lunched at a lakeside restaurant on hearty local food which included a wild mushroom soup and buckwheat dumplings stuffed with cheese.
From my balcony at the smart Hotel Golf next morning I finally saw the lake in all its glory as the mist lifted and the sun came out.
Travel guide: Slovenia
From wine to health spas
Compared with its European neighbours, Slovenia is an undiscovered gem in terms of British tourism.
Hidden between Italy, Croatia and the Czech Republic, Slovenia has something for everyone - from its lush mountain scenery and sprawling vineyards to its natural spas and medieval towns.
A trip there is like stepping back in time - oozing natural beauty and rustic charm.
Natural thermal springs are abundant in Slovenia and many tourist resorts have been built around them.
The Terme Catex resort, known as the "Thermal Riviera", is among the biggest offering indoor and outdoor pools and spas, massage jets and waterslides.
The natural waters are noted for their healing properties and treat a variety of ailments such as back pain, arthritis and diabetes.
If you enjoy being pampered, then a stay at the Hotel Terme, located in Slovenia's Terme Catez health resort, would be your idea of pure heaven.
The hotel offers a range of luxurious body treatments - from aromatherapy massages to reflexology sessions.
From as little as £12, you can have a two-hour Roman/Irish bath, which begins with a sauna and ends in a half-hour snooze on an inflatable airbed.
Traditional Slovenian food is a tad stodgy and centres around meat such as pork and duck. Dishes are accompanied with specialities such as mushroom soup with zganzi - dumplings made of flour and wheat and mlinci, a salty pasta dish made with flour and water.
A 15-minute drive from the health resort of Terme Catex will take you into the heart of Bizeljsko, a major wine producing district of Slovenia.
Here, row upon row of luscious green grape vines make up the landscape - they grow in such abundance that even the local school has its own vineyard.
Visitors can take a "wine road" tour of the area to sample the wide variety of wines that are lovingly produced there.
Travel guide: Slovenia
Slovenia's clean lakes and mountains
It's not often that the over-60s are in the vanguard of tourism but this age group forms the bulk of British tourists heading to Slovenia.
Many people don't even know where this former Yugoslav state the size of Wales is. Try south of Austria and round the corner from northern Italy.
It has been independent and peaceful for 10 years and bears no trace of East European grimness.
Bled, Slovenia, is perfect for family holidays. The flights and transfers are short. It's safe and clean with lots of hiking, swimming and cycling.
Chocolate-box pretty with a clifftop castle overlooking the lake and tiny island plus a church with a bell to ring for good luck.
Motor boats and jet skis are banned on the lake, so the water is clean and the air peaceful.
For those who prefer a really leisurely pace, pony and trap services run around the lake and to tourist sites.
In recent times a tourist mini-train has taken to the roads and has proved very popular.
So much so that the horse and trap operators took to blockading the road in protest. That's what passes for excitement in Bled.
There's lots of walking and hiking nearby. The popular Vintgar Gorge has a path along a whitewater river to a waterfall. Or take a trip to Triglav National Park at Bohinj with another scenic walk to a waterfall. However, it does mean climbing 571 steps.
Most of Bled's hotels are clustered at one end of the lake - a view spoiled only by a huge red barn of a hotel.
The area can get busy, especially at weekends, with wedding parties driving around the lake blasting car horns.
Travel guide: Slovenia
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| | | | Awash with fine lager
While I was doing the Japanese thing, I thought it only right to try out a shiatsu as well. Unlike the watsu, this was administered on dry land. Well, a yoga mat, and I lay down while each of my limbs was stretched in every conceivable direction before my pressure points were pressed and rubbed and pressed again until I was, one more, in a tingling state of total relaxation.
It wasn't quite the flying-like experience of my watsu, but it wasn't bad. A 50-minute shiatsu cost £20.
The temptation to have dinner at another historic building was too great so I visited nearby Otocec Castle, one of Slovenia's best-preserved fortresses, dating back to the mid-13th century and situated on a tiny island in the middle of the River Krka.
Having been fed like a king, I went to taste the delights of one last health spa, Terme Lasko, conveniently situated a few hundred metres away from Slovenia's largest brewery.
After a sweet-smelling (but extremely oily) ayurvedic massage I decided to wash down my meal, which included colt medallions - yes, that's horse - with one or two of Slovenia's finest lagers at the Lasko Brewery.
This particular establishment distributes more than 200m pints of beer across central Europe every year, but the reason I'd recommend visiting the place is to drink a selection of those pints in its mini pub. Not only is it set inside a large copper beer vat that was moved from Lasko's original 180-year-old brewery before a massive renovation project, but it also comes complete with personal beer taps at the tables.
And it produces a decent tipple too, good enough to keep you there for a lot longer than initially intended. But why worry? No matter how many Lasko pivos you manage to put away, you can do so safe in the knowledge that you are just a short stumble away from the local health spa and medical centre.
The trip to Slovenia was arranged by the Slovenian Tourist Board on behalf of the Slovenian Spa Association.
Return tickets from Stansted to Ljubljana cost £40.98pp including taxes with easyJet.
In Terme Catez, a room at the four-star Hotel Terme costs from £43 per night, based on two people sharing. In Dolenjska Toplice, the four-star Hotel Vital costs from £39 per night, based on two people sharing, and in Lasko, the four-star Hotel Vrelec costs from £35, again based on two sharing.
A three-course lunch at Castle Mokrice or Otocec Castle costs between £9 and £15 per person, including wine.
Feeling inspired? Book a flight to Slovenia
Sun, sea and saunas
But it was time to head for the coast, stopping on the way at Predjama Castle (nicknamed pyjama by us), a medieval fortress built into deep caves. It was another steep climb with lots of steps but worth it for the views down the valley and to peek into the eerie entrance to the caves which run deep into the mountainside, some of which have still not yet been fully explored.
Just an hour and a half's drive from Bled we were on the coast at Portoroz and in a completely different microclimate. The scenery suddenly changes from forests and mountains dotted with alpine chalets to cypress trees and red tiled Mediterranean-styled roofs, and the sun was blazing down.
On the Adriatic coast, Portoroz is a smart seaside resort with a flower lined promenade perfect for strolling. And finally, there were people! Though still not enough to constitute a crowd. That's the beauty of Slovenia. Its small population means there's plenty of space for everyone.
We checked into the impressive Hotel Slovenija with fine views across the bay and headed off to a waterfront restaurant for lunch. A massive and very tasty pizza and a beer came to just a fiver.
We took an evening cruise along the picturesque coast to Izola to sample some of the area's famous seafood. Our stomachs were groaning after a six-course fish meal the like of which you'd be hard pushed to find in some of London's top restaurants, and all for a fraction of the price.
It included a local dish of whole sea bass cooked in thick sea salt and prawn and cheese-topped aubergine garnished with lavender and cherry tomato.
Next day we set off round the bay to medieval Piran. From here you can see the coasts of both Croatia and Italy. Once under Venetian rule, Piran still has an impressive collection of Italianate buildings and pretty squares. It's the kind of place that warrants a couple of days just wandering round the old town streets, stopping for coffee at the many pavement cafes.
After all that food, the many excellent local wines, not to mention the numerous fruit brandies, you may well want to head for a detox in the local spa. We checked out the beautiful Wai Thai centre at the Hotel Riviera next door to us. This is no ordinary spa and it was no surprise to find it fully booked. The moment you enter the incense-scented foyer with its gorgeous painted walls in Thai style, lit by relaxing tea lights you know you're in for a treat.
A special treatment room for couples offers a whirlpool, massage beds, cool, classy decor and stunning views over the sea. An aromatherapy massage is from £30 but it's wise to book ahead.
Before I visited Slovenia, I wasn't even quite sure where it was. Now it's firmly on the map for me. This surprising little country has everything from sunshine to skiing, great food, quality hotels, very reasonable prices and friendly locals who all speak excellent English.
Our delightful driver Micha looked a little sad as he dropped us off at the airport and we were sorry to leave too. I thought I'd drown my sorrows with one last Slovenian beer but found I didn't have quite enough tolars: "That's OK," said the barman "I'll just give you a slightly smaller measure. Enjoy it, and come back soon for another one." I plan to do just that.
- Thomson Lakes And Mountains (0870 6061470) offer holidays to Slovenia from £399 for seven nights half-board in the four-star Hotel Golf at Lake Bled and from £489 half-board in the four-star Hotel Riviera in Portoroz. Two-week, two-centre holidays are priced from £624. Thomson also does weddings on Lake Bled.
- For more information about Slovenia contact the Slovenian Tourist Board on 0870 2255305.
Medieval wonders
Lying near the Croatian border lies Brezice, one of Slovenia's largest and most charming municipalities.
Here, you can experience the wonders of the medieval Castle Mokrice, which has been converted into a luxury hotel. The gothic surroundings make it the ideal setting for a romantic weekend.
You can also spend a few hours at the Pleterje Charterhouse, a 500-year-old monastery, home to 17 monks.
With its Renaissance, baroque and Art Nouveau architecture, the capital city of Ljubljana provides the visitor with a rich cultural experience.
From the bridges designed by celebrated architect Joze Plecnik to the trendy, cosmopolitan bars, Ljubljana caters for every taste and age.
The best way of seeing the sights is to book a tour. The city's tourist centre offers three-hour to full-day trails.
Getting there: Slovenia's national airline, Adria Airways, operates flights from Gatwick to Ljubljana.
Currency: The Slovenian Tolar.
Cost: A week half-board at the Hotel Terme costs from £419 with Thomson - http://www.thomsonlakesandmountains.co.uk or contact them on 0870 606 1470.
More info: Slovenian Tourist Board, 49 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YS.
A smacked bottom is traditional
Holidaymakers can get married there in a register office with a blessing in the island church, reached by pletnas - large gondola-like boats which carry about 20 people.
To get an idea of the area, short scenic flights - from only £10 - are available They're great for getting pictures of the lake and the nearby Julian Alps.
The Alps are stunning and, with 58% of the country covered in forest, the whole place has a very Alpine feel.
There is more serious walking and rock climbing in the mountains where, tradition dictates, you get your bottom smacked on reaching the highest peak.
Bled is usually found in the lakes and mountains brochures and is a popular twin-centre holiday combined with the coast or Salzburg three and a half hours' drive away.
It does get hot and can be crowded in July and August so it is better to go in May/June or September.
It is easy to find your own way around - there are budget flights to nearby Trieste and car hire is reasonable.
From Bled there are lots of coach tours - as far as Venice. The area does attract coach parties but you can avoid the crowds if you're flexible.
Despite the age of many of the British guests, some areas aren't suitable for those who are not quite sprightly.
Both Bled Castle and island church have a lot of steps, as do the waterfall walks but the lake shore path is an easy two-hour stroll.
Food in Slovenia is big on meat and hearty soups. The fish is good but veggies may find it a struggle.
Eating out is very good value with beer about £1 and a meal £5. The currency is the tolar, not available in the UK, but sold at the airport or hotels there.
The Thomson Lakes and Mountains brochure features seven-night holidays in Bled from £359 in August. Call 0870 606 1470 or see www.thomsonlakesandmountains.co.uk
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