Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Greece / Sporades Islands
 |  | Travel Reviews : Sporades Islands |
|
| | | | Holidays for huggers
The Englishwoman in pearls and a silk dress - in real life a corporate banker - sniffed: 'It's just like kindergarten.'
Twelve of us, all newly-arrived guests, were standing in a circle, shoeless, arms raised and making gentle sounds.
In order to introduce ourselves, we each had to make a single personal gesture. Some leaped in the air. Others bowed or swirled their arms. I imitated a cat cleaning its whiskers.
It was embarrassing, but it worked. The community spirit had begun.
I was at the Skyros Centre, on the Greek island of Skyros, which looks like a mangy lion crouching in the Aegean Sea, for my first 'holistic' holiday.
The centre was started in 1978 by Yannis Andricopoulos, a Greek historian who wanted to create instant communities for people who no longer lived in traditional societies such as Greece.
His holidays were based on the idea of people sharing, interacting and developing mind, body and spirit.
Here, the ideas of ancient Greek society were revived for yuppies who probably lived most of the year as if there was no such thing as society any more.
I was quickly aware that there was a lot of hugging going on. This was meant to be supportive: particularly for people on the therapy courses, who were getting their emotions stirred up in a very short time.
I insisted that people shake hands with me instead, which was considered as eccentric and stuffy as wearing a corset.
Travel guide: Sporades
|
|
|
|
|
| | | | Male bonding and gossip
Skyros is less 'New Age' now than it was. Andrew, 47, who works in computers in London, told us that in 1996, he attended a course in 'male bonding', when they had to examine each other's genitals and discuss them.
It sounded hilarious to me, but he said it was the 'best course he'd ever been on'. Apparently, staring at the other men's 'bits' made him feel more secure.
In those touchy-feely days, punters and the course directors had to hold hands at staff meetings, 'love the world', and go out searching for heart-shaped stones.
I was relieved that all we had to do, in the interests of community, were more mundane tasks, such as clearing tables after breakfast, chopping veg for lunch and watering the gardens.
Our 'community' was made up of European women, including many soul-searching grannies: hippies of yesteryear who have evolved into 'New Agers'.
We were all there for two-week courses in meditation, hatha yoga, family therapy, theatre writing, Greek myths and Greek dance.
At Atsitsa, a sister site on the other side of the island, where people live among pine trees in shared bamboo huts, they had sailing, windsurfing, clowning, massage and Tai Chi.
In the mornings I took playwriting, with Nigel Gearing, whose work, Falling Through Italy, was recently broadcast on Radio 4.
My afternoons were occupied by a course on Greek myths, which turned out to be mostly ancient gossip. And this wasn't the only gossip: as we formed into a tiny village, we all sizzled with interest about each other.
Michael, 60, from Essex, who writes computer books, had been invited on holiday by a charming charity worker, also in her 60s.
He was madly in love with her, but she took him to one of the most romantic spots on the island, and told him 'it' was all over before 'it' had begun.
'Four people have come up to me today to tell me to give her up,' he said sadly. 'They say I am on a sticky wicket - but how do they know so much about it?'
|
|
|
|
|
| | | | Wild nights at the disco
Visits from our sister village always created more speculation.
Perhaps because they were living out in the woods, they seemed wilder than us.
Their men had a vegan look about them, and favoured the bald head, naked torso and sarong of Buddhist monks.
At the Friday night disco, half-naked Swiss therapists made strange movements on the dance floor with grandmothers in short skirts, while Greek men stood around looking puzzled.
Seized by the Dionysian atmosphere, one Englishwoman in her early 50s, from the Atsitsa camp, threw caution to the wind by having sex with a fellow guest on the floor of the bar, in front of us all.
Jane, 45, the beautiful East Anglian who runs the Skyros Centre, was not amused. 'It really is not on,' she said crossly, as three of us walked back up the hill to our apartments.
The party that night was definitely over. 'Women of a certain age,' she mused, 'come here hoping to meet someone.'
Her words could have applied to us as well, although I don't think we fancied doing anything so public.
But it was a hot, heady night. The other Atsitsa people, like wilful teenagers, refused to leave the disco in time to get their taxis, causing anger among local drivers.
When they did go back at 2am, their car injured a goat so badly that it had to be finished off by a passing local, sending several people into emergency counselling the next day.
|
|
|
|
|
| | | | Sex and scenery
Round-the-clock community life - particularly here - can be taxing. There were plenty of trips and excursions on offer, but because of the heat, sometimes over 100F, and as I had homework from Nigel, I stayed close to my tiny house during our free time.
I'd take short walks up the old cobbled streets, where geraniums and bougainvillea made splashes of colour against white walls.
Skyros is a place for sex, scenery and history, but not for interesting cuisine. After two weeks, no one wanted to see feta cheese ever again.
With the courses, the heat and the effort of trying to get on with strangers, I left Skyros somewhat exhausted. I had been told on the way there that people always blossomed during the two weeks, but I felt rather wilted.
Was it a holiday? I'd hardly had time for the beach. Was it therapy? Two weeks is not really long enough for that, but I had enjoyed the supportive atmosphere that had been created - when I wasn't fighting off huggers.
I felt as if they had tried to squeeze me into a different shape which I had failed to assume, but I'd like to have another go at the Skyros experience.
Twenty eight per cent of visitors go back and do it all again - when they have recovered from the shock of the first visit.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Skyros - 020 7267 4424. Olympic Airways, with transfers and overnight stay in Athens organised for you, can be arranged by Griffin Travel, tel: 020 7814 9977.
|
|
|
|
|
| | Destination Guide : Sporades Islands |
|
| | | Traditional Greek life |  | Why go on holiday to the Sporades?
For sunshine, Greek food and island living where you can find traditional Greek villages and ways of life. The archipelago of 11 islands is located just off the east coast of the mainland, in the Aegean Sea.
Four of these islands are inhabited - Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonnisos and Skyros - and they are blessed with beautiful beaches, lush vegetation and mountainous terrain.
How much does it cost?
A direct return flight to Skiathos in summer is around £200 - it is worth shopping around. The ferry from Skiathos to Skopelos takes about an hour and a half but the hydrofoil is far quicker. A seven-day self-catering package on Skiathos starts from about £300, B&B from about £350, self-catering accommodation on Skopelos from about £300 and B&B from about £330. All prices can vary.
When should I go?
Apart from being extremely hot (as high as 34C/93F), the summer months of July and August tend to be overcrowded and accommodation is expensive. Temperatures in spring and autumn are a more comfortable 25C/77F and it is still relatively dry.
The rains begin at the end of October and last until February with temperatures rarely dropping lower than 10C (50F).
|
|
|
|
|
| | | Beautiful beaches |  | What should I do when I'm there?
On Skiathos, one of Greece's premier resorts, relax on exquisite golden sandy beaches, of which there are more than 60. Shop in Skiathos town and enjoy its buzzing nightlife.
Be warned though - it is one of the most expensive Greek islands and the south coast can be overrun by tourists in the summer. For an alternative holiday head for Skyros, home to the Skyros Institute, a centre for holistic health and fitness.
What's Skopelos like?
Less developed than Skiathos but without one of its sister island's main attractions - most beaches on Skopelos are pebbled. The island has extensive pine forests, vineyards, olive groves and fruit orchards.
Charming Skopelos town borders a horseshoe bay and sweeps up a hillside towards a ruined fortress and monastery.
Where is off the beaten track?
The vastly-underrated green island of Alonnisos. After an earthquake in 1965, the hilltop town of Old Alonnisos was deserted by many inhabitants. It's now being restored, mostly by Brits and Germans, and is becoming something of an artists' community.
Numerous hiking trails make the island popular with walkers and the surrounding islands and waters have become a protected marine park.
|
|
|
|
|
| | | Mouthwatering fare | | Where's good for nightlife?
Skiathos town. Go to the streets of Papadiamanti and Polytehniou and take your pick of disco or bar - try Kentavros Bar, a favourite with local expats. In Skopelos town check out Oionos Karaiskaki for jazz and ethnic music.
What's the food like?
Delicious, with lots of fresh grilled vegetables, fish, seafood and meat. Taste a Skiathos meatball - a mini meatloaf, with rice and tomato sauce; or kopanisti - feta cheese whipped with hot peppers. The local grainy bread is good.
What should I buy?
Local handicrafts include hand-woven materials, rugs, clay and copper utensils, ceramics and carved wooden chests and furniture. The best place to find these is at Skyros town in its folk art shops.
What is there for children to do?
Build castles in the sand and make new friends on the beach. Greece is a relatively safe place for a family holiday, and child discounts are available at resorts.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London W1S 2DJ. Tel. 020 7495 9300.
|
|
|
|
|
| | Fact File : Sporades Islands |
|
| | | Sporades | | Did you know?
The waters around the island of Alonnisos are designated a marine park and are the cleanest in the Aegean.
Language
Greek
Visas
None required for EU residents.
Getting there
Direct charter flights from UK to Skiathos. Domestic flights from Athens to Skiathos and Skyros. Ferries from the Greek mainland serve Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonnisos.
Flying time from London
Around four and a half hours
Getting around
Inter-island ferry and hydrofoil services. Varying degrees of bus service on the islands.
Currency
Euro
Costs
Litre of petrol 50p; bottle of beer £1; moderate restaurant meal £10; roll of camera film £2.50; four-mile taxi ride about £3. Prices are approximate.
Weather
May to mid-October are the warmest months of the year with a temperature range of 22-30C (72-86F). June, July and August can be dry and even hotter (up to 33C/93F), relieved only by the annual northerly meltemi wind. By the end of October the rains begin and continue until February, with temperatures from 10-20C (50-68F).
Time difference
Three hours ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 30 for Greece followed by island code - Skiathos 0427, Skopelos 0424, Alonnisos 0424, Skyros 0222.
Voltage
220V, 50Hz. Plugs are the standard continental type with two round pins. Take an adaptor with you for UK appliances.
Opening hours
Banks open Monday to Thursday 8am-2pm, and 8am-1.30pm Friday. Post offices open 7.30am-2pm Monday to Friday. Shops in tourist areas may be open daily although most close in the heat of the afternoon and on Sunday. Some museums are closed on Monday.
Health - Before you go
No jabs necessary. The UK has reciprocal medical agreements with Greece. Take an EHIC form with you - obtainable from any UK post office.
Health - When you are there
Tap water is generally safe to drink. Protect yourself from the sun and pack an insect repellent. For medical services on Skiathos dial (30) (0427) 22222.
Warnings
Practise common sense and keep an eye on your belongings.
Emergency
Tel 166. Tourist police in Skiathos, Tel. (0427) 23172. British Embassy, Ploutarchou 1, Athens 106 75. Tel. (30) (1) 72 72 600. Fax: (30) (1) 72 72 722.
Customs
Around 98% of Greeks belong to the Greek Orthodox Church and life is centred on the festivals of the Church calendar. If you want to go into a church, dress appropriately - women with skirts below the knees and men with full-length trousers and covered arms.
Pets
Under the Pet Travel Scheme you can travel with your pet dog or cat, as long as you have the correct documentation. This takes some time to set up, however - ask your vet for details.
Tipping
Service is included on restaurant bills but it is customary to leave a small tip. Same goes for taxis.
Tourist office
Hellenic Tourism Organisation, 4 Conduit Street, London, W1R 0DJ. Tel. 020 7495 9300.
|
|
|
|
|
| | Available rental properties in Sporades Islands |
|
|
|
|
