Travel Guides: All Countries / Oceania - Australia / Australia / New South Wales / Sydney
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| | | | Spectacular bridge climb
I was lucky enough to be in Sydney whilst the Olympics were on last year and I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. Unlike most English cities, Sydney does not really feel like a city as there are so many beautiful gardens to visit and being right next to the ocean, it sometimes felt like you were a million miles away.
There were lots of places of interest to visit which didn't always mean spending lots of money. The Botanical Gardens are lovely, the Opera House tour is spectacular but I must admit my favourite activity of all was the Harbour Bridge Climb. A three-hour tour takes you through the safety aspects before you begin the climb, the actual climb itself and, of course, the spectacular view once you reach the top. The guides are friendly and helpful, providing historical information. I really recommend anyone who wants a last memory of this beautiful city, to climb the famous bridge.
To fully explore Sydney, I think you need about one month as there is so much to do and see, it is just not possible in a short time.
Travel Guide: Sydney
It's a bargain
It was Bill Bryson, in his book Down Under, who said that the Sydney Opera House is something not to take your eyes off for more than a minute. Anyone who's ever been to the world's most famous harbour would agree. For some reason you keep glancing at it as if you are checking it's still there. The harbour is every bit as breathtaking as it appears on TV.
Unfriendly locals? The Aussies are anything but Pommie Bashers. You'll receive a warmer welcome Sydneyside than you would in Spain. The Antipodean cost of living also means that there has never been a better time to go.
I took five friends to The Oaks, a pub-restaurant in Neutral Bay. Each had a huge plate-overhanging steak with a garden of salad. The bill came to a measly £50. OK, we had to cook the steaks ourselves but barbecuing at is half of the fun dining out Down Under.
The only drawback visiting Oz is it takes a day to get there. But, if you can spare two or three weeks, it's well worth it.
Cheap food, cheap clothes and cheap to get there, Australia is certainly the Florida of the future.
Travel Guide: Sydney
How I went for gold shopping in Sydney
From the Mail on Sunday
The decision to go to Sydney was taken one cool evening last October.
We were watching the closing ceremony of the Olympic Games on TV. For days, like millions around the globe, we had been entranced by glimpses of this city by the sea. And it wasn't just the athletes that were winning medals. The beaches looked golden, the sea they sailed on was a shiny silver and all sorts of interesting bits looked bronzed. But the decider for us was the sight of a bunch of raw prawns on bicycles as they swept into Stadium Australia to the roar of approval from both Ockers and foreigners.
Finding winter sun in a country that had the ability to laugh at itself. Strewth, the tickets were as good as bought. What the Australians themselves call the 'Olympic Impact' meant that we joined an extra million visitors who popped into Sydney for the New Year celebrations of 2001.
We thought we were quite knowledgeable about the place - a daughter and a niece are working there right now. Yes, we knew about the ubiquitous barbecues, the sports-loving, hard-drinking blokes, their equally tough Sheilas and everything else we had gleaned from Neighbours and Home And Away.
What we weren't prepared for is what a very darling experience visiting Oz's biggest city is - and not only because Sydney contains Darling Harbour (think Soho-sur-mer), Darling Point, Darling River and Darlinghurst.
Darling, too, describes the tiny boutiques on Oxford Street. Crammed full of interesting baubles from embroidered picture frames to made-to-measure frocks à la Grace Kelly (some of them designed to slip off the shoulders of 42-inch hairy chests). Then there's the Sunday open-air market, where the beautiful people come to track down hand-painted furniture, feather chokers and sequin-dusted fairy wings for all ages, all sizes and sexes. Sydney, we discovered, has a powerful gay and feminine side. Unlike the myth, it isn't full of mindless Bonding.
Take Mosman, a northern suburb and home to the Rodeo Drive of the southern hemisphere. The elegant kerb is lined with large, square terracotta pots overfilled with trailing white petunias. These stand guard outside boutiques selling all the usual international designer stuff but also containing shops special to Oz.
Tricologie is full of original furniture and style accessories along the cool lines of the seaside homes of the Hamptons and Nantucket. When you leave your goodies are packed in shiny white bags with lilac ribbon handles. Opposite, Mosmania sells elegantly distressed wireware for flowers and plants, all in shades of clotted cream and cloudy-day grey.
In fact, great shopping has been the big Sydney secret. In the middle of Sydney there is a vast catacomb of malls. Shop after shop selling clothes at about half of the cost of those in the UK interconnect both underground and over-ground. An escalator will take you to your nail bar, a monorail will whizz you past a department store of Harrods dimensions. And in the midst of all this perch al fresco restaurants and bars that will sell you anything from a Greek salad to a Mexican fajita.
Travel Guide: Sydney
Free kids travel and excellent transport
I spent a couple of months in Australia in July/August. We travelled around some distance and found Sydney to be excellent, the public transport was clean and efficient and the kids travel free.
The trains are amazing - three floors high. We did the harbour bridge walk where you walk over the top of the bridge harnessed to the railings.
I thought I would feel sick if I looked down but once I was up there it was great. The guide was excellent and my 11-year-old twins loved it as well.
Sydney was a bit like London - lots of traffic and high rise buildings but it was cleaner.
We stayed in Bronte which was a lovely residential area with a great beach. Our favourite beach was Manly and we were a bit disappointed with Bondi - I thought there were too many backpacker hostels and graffiti.
The waves were so big that surfers had to be towed out past the surf by jet skiers.
Travel Guide: Sydney
A harbour love affair
There's so much to see and do it's hard to know where to start, but we followed a friend's advice and took a coffee cruise on the harbour. It turned out to be a brilliant way of starting our sightseeing.
The views of the Opera House and the bridge are spectacular from the water and you realise just how big the harbour is, as the boat takes you right out to its mouth. We grew so attached to the harbour it became a daily visit - we loved hanging around The Rocks.
On our last evening we treated ourselves to exclusive fish and chips at the famous Doyle's seafood restaurant. To the right was the floodlit opera house and to our left the bridge - yet another great view of our favourite harbour.
Travel Guide: Sydney
The finest city on earth
The 24-hour journey is a nightmare - unless you're rich enough to travel first class. Having arrived it is forgotten and truly is the finest city on earth. There is so much to see and do.
Don't miss Watsons Bay. Travel from Circular Quay by ferry and have a wonderful harbour cruise before you arrive (about £8 return).
The views from the hillside walk are stunning and after working up a healthy appetite, eat fish and chips at Doyles - heavenly! Visit Paddy's Market on a Sunday, everyone else seems to be there but the atmosphere is great and the Chinese masseurs do a wonderful job of relieving stress.
Hire a car and visit the Blue Mountains - about an hour's drive away. If you've the time stay a couple of days, its peace and tranquillity are a welcome break from the city.
Value for money - it must be the place to go especially in February when the Gay Mardi Gras takes place - what a specticle!
We've been lucky enough to go three times and are returning in 2003 - can't wait.
Travel Guide: Sydney
Sydney on a plate
Sydney thinks it is the finest city in the world - and if New York, Paris, Venice and London dispute that, then it can certainly settle for being the finest in the southern hemisphere.
It has so much to offer that you probably have to live there half a lifetime to take it all in.
I'd been to Sydney twice before, but this was the first time with my family - and they knew exactly what they wanted to see first: the harbour, the bridge and the Opera House.
The permanent throng of tourists around that area did not deter them from plunging straight into this world-famous cityscape.
At least Circular Quay, the hub of the harbour that runs from the bridge to the Opera House, seemed to have a drinks or ice-cream stall every few yards to help refresh us.
We stayed in the Rocks, the district of the city by the water's edge, from which the Harbour Bridge springs forth towards the smart northern suburbs.
You can walk to most places you would want to see from there, and in terms of charm, there is no better place to stay in a city that is famous for leisure, but, in most parts, given over to business.
As well as the spectacle of the bridge - you can take a guided walk over the top if you have a good head for heights - the main thoroughfare in the district, George Street, is lined with bars, restaurants, gift shops and luxury retailers.
Although the Rocks verges on being a tourist trap, it still manages to reflect the real Australia, with bars and cafes serving the delicious local Tooheys beer ice cold, and contemporary Australian cuisine.
Many are manned by bright students earning money to travel abroad and who want to hear about Europe.
Travel Guide: Sydney
Can you really do Oz in a fortnight?
From the Daily Mail
Two weeks to see Australia? It's surely not possible - at least not without the unflagging, Japanese-style 'If it's Tuesday this must be Ayers Rock' kind of tourism, which would be mentally numbing, physically exhausting and - with the cost of internal flights - financially crippling.
However, what you can do in a fortnight, if that is all the time you have, is experience the sheer vastness of Australia and the stunning disparity of its landscapes and climates by spending the first week on the eastern coast and the second on the western one (or vice versa).
On the eastern coast are people, civilisation and nature tamed into greenery as far as the eye can see.
On the west, if you go north any distance from Perth, are isolated settlements struggling to survive in a wilderness that reaches arid fingers of sand and scrub right down to the sea.
Hard-bitten ranchers in the wild west will look at you askance if you start praising Sydney.
Very fine, yes, full of banks and smart suits and high-rises, but what is there for travellers to do, once they've gawped at the view across Sydney Harbour towards the white sails of the Opera House and the bridge?
The shopping's good in Perth, and the beaches are better. What's the fuss about?
But as tens of thousands of visitors who went to the 2000 Olympics can testify, Sydney is quite simply the most beautiful major city in the world.
It refreshes the spirit to sit out anywhere along the blue-beaded necklace of bays and coves linked by the Harbour Bridge and, drink in hand, watch the sun go down over the yachts and ferries.
There is so much waterfront that they are only now converting long-disused 1920s warehouses in a prime position almost underneath the bridge.
Travel Guide: Sydney
Sensational Sydney
Sydney is one of those cities in the world, and there aren't too many, that has achieved such iconic status that it genuinely feels a privilege just to be there.
Widely said to have 'come of age' over the last decade, it always offer visitors and locals alike a number of special and memorable experiences, and if it's within your means, I urge anybody to see this charming place at least once.
Although Sydney is a city, it doesn't take long to realise that it has the feel of a large village, so compact and welcoming is its centre and atmosphere.
Of course, it's the majestic harbour that has provided the world with its iconic images, with the Harbour Bridge and Opera House the most recognisable landmarks in Australia.
I can't imagine many people tiring of walking around Circular Quay, the major harbourside transportation centre with its numerous boats and ferries, drinking in the atmosphere. The free entertainment on offer, with buskers of all types, adds to the enjoyment.
The historic Rocks district, a short stroll from Circular Quay, is known as the birthplace of modern-day Australia, after Captain Arthur Phillip arrived with his fleet and settled there in 1788. The houses, shops and museums give the area a distinctive flavour, and on weekdays it is usually lovely and peaceful. Unsurprisingly, the Rocks are much busier at the weekend, with many attracted by the splendid market.
Thinking back it was probably best that our Sydney Harbour Bridge climb was on our first full day. I certainly wouldn't say I was looking forward to my climb, and my concerned expression didn't go unnoticed by the others in our group.
I think it was when I saw group of school children on the way down that I pulled myself together, and as soon as I realised that we were attached to the bridge at all times, I began to relax. The views just kept getting better as we made our way to the top, and when we reached the summit, it was exhilarating.
Such is the force of gravity at the top that you can spread your arms wide and almost hang in the wind – something I won't easily forget. You can make the climb at any time, from dawn until late into the evening.
Sydney's other internationally recognised landmark is the Opera House, and we were lucky enough to be given a backstage tour. You can visit the Concert Hall and Opera Theatre, walk onto the stages and spend time relaxing in dressing rooms normally occupied by stars of stage and screen.
It almost goes without saying that the entertainment on offer is first class, with the very best in theatre, opera and classical music on a daily basis.
Possibly the most memorable experience of my week in Sydney came courtesy of a seaplane ride from nearby Rose Bay. The delightfully compact aircraft took us on a magnificent 20 minute flight, with spectacular bird's eye views of the coast and many landmarks, before we arrived at Cottage Point.
Situated in one of the most picturesque and secluded spots imaginable, we spent a leisurely afternoon at the splendid Cottage Point Inn Restaurant. On our return, we flew over the harbour, as close as any aircraft is allowed, and enjoyed the most outstanding views. If you feel like splashing out, you won't regret this special four hour experience, but if you're on a tighter budget a 15 minute flight up to Bondi Beach and around the harbour won't break the bank, and is still spectacular.
Darling Harbour is a short walk from the centre of town. You can also reach there by ferry, although I recommend you incorporate a trip on the MonoRail into your visit. Hugely significant redevelopments have taken place over the last 15 years, and there are a host of attractions, including the National Maritime Museum, IMAX Theatre and Sydney Aquarium.
We visited the recently opened Wildlife World, which is ideal for families – children in particular will love the close proximity to the animals and the friendly staff are happy to let you handle some of them. Needless to say, while some of the braver (or madder) members of our group allowed snakes to wind their way around them, I was cowering in the background.
A quick note for seafood lovers: eat at Nicks Restaurant while in Darling Harbour, I enjoyed a sumptuous lunch there, and the setting is typically marvellous.
If you fancy a day trip out of the city, there is something unmistakably magical about nearby Manly, everything from the wondrous ferry trip there to the place itself. Pulling out from the majestic harbour, there are delightful views and sights throughout the 30 minute journey.
Something about its main street is reminiscent of an English seaside resort of the 1970s, but it's always glorious rather than tacky – and you can certainly pick up some fine souvenirs at bargain prices.
I'm a long way from being one of life's natural beach lovers, but even I was attracted to the beach at Manly. It's not so much the perfect sand or clear blue water, but the activities. If anybody wanted an example of the Australian love of sport, spend some time on this beach. Everywhere you look there are games of rugby, Aussie rules, cricket and volleyball. All kinds of watersports are on offer and the sea is awash with surfers.
I teased a couple of classically bronzed athletes about England's recent successes on the sporting field, but soon felt a little foolish when I called for a rugby ball to be thrown at me and was nearly poleaxed by the ferocity of the throw.
Slightly further afield from the centre of Sydney are the Blue Mountains, and if, like me, you love trains, the two hour journey won't disappoint. You arrive in the small town of Katoomba, from where it is easy to take a tour into the mountains. Many people understandably opt for bush walking or camping here, but I took a more sedate bus trip followed by a cable car ride, which takes in breathtaking scenery.
Unfortunately, while the sun shone brightly on Manly, it was more like Cleethorpes in February when we visited Bondi Beach. Smaller than you might imagine, given its worldwide fame, it still looks delightful and there are plenty of interesting shops nearby should the weather take an unexpected turn. If Bondi is too packed, and in the summer months it generally is, another of Sydney's fine beaches is Coogee, which always seems a touch underrated to me.
If shopping is your game, you won't be disappointed. Many fine department stores and shops grace George Street in the heart of the city, but if you find markets more interesting, as I do, head to Paddington.
There are all manner of items on sale in the sizeable market, which is very popular at weekends, and it's a pleasant part of town to spend time in. You can also shop at a host of fashionable boutiques on the main street, and I urge you to take the shortest of walks to nearby residential roads, where the houses are delightful, with their multi-coloured facades and wrought iron balconies.
While you can dine at some of the world's finest restaurants and will never tire of the variety of food on offer, the nightlife in Sydney can be a strange affair. The centre of town is often very quiet in midweek, but the pubs in the Rocks and George Street fill up at weekends. For a good night out, I suggest you head to Kings Cross or Newtown.
The former has an undeniably seedy side (it makes London's Soho seem rather tame) but there are many decent pubs and clubs, and there is a buzz on the streets. Newtown is a short train ride away from Circular Quay and has an unmistakably bohemian feel. It's become increasingly trendy in recent years.
You can rest your head anywhere - from a youth hostel to swanky five star hotel - and we were fortunate enough to be looked after at the latter, the Shangri-La Hotel in the Rocks. Waking up to a stunning view of Sydney Harbour would be a tonic for anyone in the morning, the rooms are spacious and luxurious and the facilities first class.
But try and remember the old adage 'patience is a virtue': six lifts aren't quite sufficient for such an enormous hotel and you can end up waiting many minutes at a time.
Even taking into account that I'm an unashamed sentimentalist, I defy anyone not to feel a sense of sadness when leaving Australia, not least because you're never quite sure if and when you will ever return to this faraway destination.
My memories were my consolation, and they are of one of the world's most beautiful towns. It takes a long time to get there, but the effort is always more than worthwhile.
* Feeling inspired? Book a holiday
* Virgin Atlantic flies daily to Sydney via Hong Kong. Economy fares start from around £1,005 pp for departures between Jan 16 – Apr 15 next year. For reservations, ring 08705 747747 or log onto www.virginatlantic.com. Prices at the Shangri-La Hotel start from £130 for a Deluxe Darling Harbour View room.
Travel Guide: Sydney
The one stop holiday bonanza
Sydney is the mother of all holidays - a sun worshipper's Mecca, a culture vulture's dream, a clubber's paradise and a nature lover's haven, all in one.
It has all the vigour of a first-class city yet possesses an easy-going charm you would be hard pushed to find in London, Paris or New York.
From the sparkling harbour to the golden beaches on the Pacific Ocean, Sydney has got it by the bucket-load.
If it is sand, sea and surf you want then Sydney is for you - you are never more than half an hour away from a beach wherever you are in the city.
The famous Bondi beach on the Eastern shores is a surfer's paradise and a perfect place to spot the local talent if you are out there looking for love.
For a quieter time try the Northern Beaches, which stretch to Palm Beach, where Aussie soap Home And Away is shot.
For city slickers looking to take in a bit of culture, Sydney is one of the world's most vibrant hot spots for the visual and performing arts.
The most obvious being the spectacular Opera House, where a ballet will cost you less than £30 per ticket.
Experimental theatre is also alive and well in this amazing city. Check out the Belvoir Street Theatre in Surrey Hills at http://www.belvoir.com.au.
Pack your Sealegs because the best way to see Sydney is by boat. There are many harbour cruises to choose from that leave from Circular Quay. However, regular ferry trips are just as good and a lot cheaper. Hop on one to Manly, home to Syndey's longest ocean beach.
Travel Guide: Sydney
New Year Down Under
A beautiful, cosmopolitan city, full of restaurants, parks and great shopping. I went in December, and spent New Year's Eve in the centre of Melbourne. It was spectacular, but the fireworks weren't as good as those we see in Sydney harbour.
With a wide choice of dining available, the Chinatown area is particularly good, but seafood restaurants win hands down. If you're idea of fun is people-watching, try the cafes in Acland Street, where all the beautiful people hang out.
For a getaway from city life, the Mornington peninsula, south of Melbourne, is very picturesque, with great scuba diving, amazing beaches, wineries galore and many other activities to keep you busy.
It's where the Melbournites go on their weekends and holidays, though, so it's best to avoid it in the holiday season.
Travel Guide: Sydney
Slow down and don't do too much
Australia is enormous - don't try to pack in too much. It's a temptation when you've gone all that way, but you'll end up not enjoying anything because you'll be too tired.
Don't expect to "do" cities like Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth and certainly not Sydney in anything less than three days.
It's also great to get a perspective on things by not flying everywhere, but slowing down and taking a train journey.
We took a 32-hour trip from Brisbane to Cairns and it was brilliant to just chill out and enjoy the scenery - sleeping on the train was very relaxing - and I liked being woken up by the chirpy steward with my morning cuppa.
Travel Guide: Sydney
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| | | | Eggs benedict on the beach
If you can tear yourself away from credit card alley, the beaches are very darling, too - large half moons untouched by sun loungers or deckchairs. Most have free showers and changing rooms. Australia, a land of immigrants, lays great emphasis on public accessibility and visitors will find much is free.
The beaches - many with barbecuing facilities - are clean and uncrowded. Often there are solid wooden tables and benches under the trees and if you love surfing or tumbling in big waves this is paradise. In the main, the much-talked-about sharks can be identified by their posing pouches.
At magnificent Palm Beach, an hour's drive to the north, you can watch the boats bobbing off Broken Bay or lie facing up the hill and decide which million Aussie dollar home you want most. The planners obviously keep their worries to themselves.
You'll find tinted window-wrapped Hollywood villas rubbing shoulders with Home Counties posh. There is even a fair showing of Elizabethan-style beams. After all, the British were here in a big way, and Queen Victoria's statue still stands guard over one of Sydney's main intersections.
At Balmoral, only ten minutes from the Harbour Bridge, another sandy bay with quieter waves has a large lawn sweeping down to the beach. Here the Thirties-style Bathers' Pavilion has not been left to decay like some public buildings littering our British seafronts. Instead, the town council has restored it to its former splendour and brilliant food is available. On one side there is an inexpensive bistro-style menu. On the other, a four-star restaurant. There is even a cook book, more Pacific Ocean than River Cafe.
On the little seafront near the bandstand we had breakfast at a glass-fronted cafe with a central polished concrete bar, and watched the chef serve up homemade muesli and yoghurt and first-class eggs Benedict.
As the day wears on you find that this is the capital of the coolbag. There were picnics going on all over, from Observatory Point to Bronte Beach, where the Chippa (what would Charlotte and Emily think of the spelling) will do you a barbecue chicken sandwich and chips or dressed crab or lobster.
One welcome innovation from Oz is fusion food - East meets West, a sort of suck it and soy taste that originated in many of Sydney's smart eateries. And it's very healthy too. Eleven per cent of Australia's population is now Asian and enough refugees from the Mediterranean live here to ensure that extra virgin olive oil rather than butter is often proffered. Near the harbour, the Rockpool - one of Sydney's finest nosheries and well worth a visit - has a special plate that magically reveals its star centre when oil is poured into it.
The British place names, the warmth of the locals and the value-for-money prices (about 2.75 Aussie dollars to the pound) means that this is a very friendly holiday. You could get a shock, though, when lying supine by the pool on the roof of the Park Hyatt Hotel you are suddenly assailed by a chorus of 'G'days' from high above, from the thrill-seekers who have paid a hundred dollars for the privilege of climbing to the top of Sydney Harbour Bridge. It certainly makes you cover up your wobbly bits!
Our only regret was visiting the site of our original inspiration - the Olympic stadia out in the less-attractive western suburbs. Enthusiastic young Australians are still serving kangaroo kebabs (I couldn't face one, but the family munched away) and proudly conducting guided tours. There are plans to fill the vast arenas with pop concerts and sporting events. But for now they are just hollow shells. Ah well, back to the beach and the real raw prawns on the barbie!
Plenty of surfers
The jolliest thing we found to do in the Rocks was to explore the huge, open-air market at the top of George Street, which operates on Saturday and Sunday mornings.
Dozens of stalls sell local artefacts and crafts, with everything from lavishly-carved boomerangs, to handmade lace and linen.
My children chose a shark's tooth pendant each, preparing to return home and regale their friends with unlikely tales of how they had wrestled the shark themselves.
On my previous trips to Sydney, I'd enjoyed taking the ferries that ply the harbour from Circular Quay. If you want to ride with Australians, rather than with gangs of tourists, take one of the green-and-yellow municipal boats.
For me, the best ride of all is the half-hour trip on the ferry to Manly, a little seaside town on the Pacific at the end of the harbour. As we sailed in, we saw the sheltered inland beach.
However, by walking for five minutes through the town, we came to the great beach on the Pacific, a perfect crescent of golden sand, probably the nicest in the Sydney area - Bondi may be the most famous, but it is crowded and noisy.
There were plenty of surfers showing off their skills, but when the wind got up, and the beach was closed to swimmers, some show-offs carried on.
I only hoped there were enough girls watching to make it worth the danger.
Manly is also full of excellent restaurants. The spectacular seafood platter at the Fishmarket Cafe did, as predicted, defeat us, not least because of the charming local habit of serving piles of battered cod and chips with tons of shellfish.
Australia is very child-friendly: all the restaurants we visited either offered a children's menu or rustled up something small and simple if they did not.
And Sydney itself has plenty of attractions aimed at children.
Sun, sand and six-packs
We stayed in one of these, the Sebel Pier One, with windows giving right out on to the water and the old cast-iron beams and joists cleverly integrated into the walls and ceiling.
We spent a couple of days in the Blue Mountains, but there is enough to keep you in Sydney for a week without looking further afield.
To orient yourself, catch a return ferry to Manly and cycle down the beach promenades to the bushland, stopping off to swim in the Pacific.
In less than a day, you will have an indelible image of how Australia enjoys itself: the beach shorts and palm trees; the sun, sand and six-packs; the fitness fanatics, environmental faddists, surfers and shoppers all hanging out and having a good time.
If you still haven't had enough of the spectacular cityscape, take another half-day and climb to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
You'll be breath-tested before you start; you'll sign a medical form and be given a briefing before getting into your special suit for the three-hour climb - everybody is harnessed.
For somewhere peaceful to recover, try Sydney's Botanic Gardens on Mrs Macquarie's Road.
They are an unsung, under-rated delight: 30 waterfront acres of flowers, fig trees and tropical ferns, and giant fruit bats hanging upside down in the Palm Grove near the excellent restaurant.
Also in the gardens is the home of the first Governor of New South Wales.
The energy with which Australia cherishes its past seems comical, at first, to visitors from Britain, considering that not one stone built upon another exists from before 1804.
Could you cope with eating Skippy?
Sydney is a food lover's paradise awash with restaurants, selling amazing food at reasonable prices.
Here you can treat your taste buds to the best seafood without breaking the bank. Or the more adventurous can chow down on Roo Burgers, which are not for the faint-hearted. Roo means Kangaroo - could you cope with eating Skippy?
Restaurant Row overlooking Harbour Bridge at The Rocks is a must.
The Rocks, which lie under the awesome shadow of Sydney's Harbour Bridge, are the birthplace of modern-day Australia, where the first European settlement was declared in 1788.
They are a maze of narrow alleys hewn out of original rock, hence the name - and they have a lot to offer tourists.
There are shops and eateries galore and The Rocks market at George Street is a "must see" on the weekends.
Once you have sunbathed on the golden beaches, eaten fine food at affordable prices and taken in the sights, there is only one thing left to do in Sydney and that's party!
Cruise is just one of the hip bars that defines the city's cool club scene and is full of Sydney's trendier types.
Open until 3am and located at Circular Quay it is a great place to start your night before crawling to other haunts.
Kings Cross is one of Sydney's less salubrious areas, so you need your wits about you - but it is also home to some of the coolest nightclubs. If you want to really party then this the place.
The Cross is also peppered with more than 200 bars and restaurants and it just buzzes with life. Nearby Darlinghurst comes alive during the annual gay and lesbian Mardis Gras parade. It's for 24 hour party people.
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| | | | Huge, poisonous spiders
Mine are still at the age when wildlife is of endless fascination. They loved the Australian Museum, the country's premier natural history museum, which has a vast collection of bird life and an array of the huge, poisonous spiders for which the country is famous.
But the best highlight was the aquarium at Darling Harbour, the revived dockland area which includes excellent wharf-side restaurants, the National Maritime Museum and an extensive collection of shops.
The aquarium contains more than 11,000 examples of fish and marine life from more than 600 species - yet the most breathtaking experience was the 'ocean floor' walk along see-through tunnels with sharks swimming by.
At less than £20 for a family of four, it's a great bargain.
For all the shopping and cultural attractions of Sydney, we kept being drawn back to the waterfront, either to ride on ferries or walk around Circular Quay and the Royal Botanic Gardens, which has a public swimming pool and countless varieties of tropical trees, shrubs and flowers.
We would then walk out of the gardens, past the Opera House and the cafes that face it, round the quay to the opposite point by the Harbour Bridge.
At that end is Doyle's world-famous seafood restaurant, as well as a huge warehouse divided into several other places to eat, all boasting one of the best views in the world.
For all the activities Sydney has to offer, it is probably one of the finest places on earth just to sit and do nothing, other than admire what nature and man have created in this vibrant city.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Travelbag (http://www.travelbag.co.uk tel: 0870 890 1458) organises trips to Australia. Australian Tourist Commission (http://www.atc.australia.com tel: 90202 780 2229).
Ritzy northern suburbs
But if you think of our 1920s as Australia's Georgian period, and our Victorian as Australia's Tudor, you can muster some respect for Cadman's Cottage (1816), the oldest private house in Sydney.
The Rocks area of terraced cottages and cobbled alleys was hammered out of the sandstone by early settlers.
The most astonishing and gratifying change since I was last in Australia 15 years ago is in the quality and sophistication of the food, typically an approximation of Pacific Rim cuisine with native Australian ingredients.
Profiting from our exchange rate with the Australian dollar, we ate good food more often and more cheaply than I ever have in France or Italy.
On our last full day in Sydney we drove to the ritzy northern suburbs of Palm Beach and Whale Beach, swam through the breakers, sat in the sand (bring your own beach umbrella) and ate in the 'original' Whale Beach Restaurant (est. circa 1940).
Under an awning, with a light breeze blowing from the sea 100 yards away, we had a delicious seafood lunch of smoked eel and grilled snapper washed down by a superlative white Riesling - wondering, like thousands of visitors before us, whether Australians enjoyed the best lifestyle on God's earth.
Even so, a week in Sydney is probably enough for most people. Western Australia, four-and-a-half hours away by Qantas jet, is a different proposition.
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| | Destination Guide : Sydney |
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| | | A night at the opera |  | Why go on holiday to Sydney?
To catch a show at the world-famous Opera House, admire the views across the harbour, watch the surfers at Manly or Bondi beaches and eat in some of the world's finest restaurants.
How much does it cost?
Return air fares start from around £500 but prices can leap considerably - particularly over the Christmas period. Hotel rooms are from £30 a night. Four-day hotel packages are from £160 (bookable from the UK).
When should I go?
Australian seasons are the reverse of ours. Sydney has a temperate climate with the temperature rarely dropping below 10C (50F). Summer maximum is usually around 25C (77F), though during a really hot spell it can get up to 40C (104F).
Average monthly rainfall is from 75 to 130mm, with torrential showers common between October and March.
Festivals include the gay and lesbian Mardi Gras (February/March), Festival Of The Winds kite festival at Bondi (September) and the Survival Festival, celebrating Aboriginal culture (January).
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| | | Surf city | | What should I do when I get there?
A good starting point is a cruise around the bay - the world's largest natural harbour and one of the most scenic. Get your bearings and enjoy spectacular views of the Opera House and bridge from the water.
Explore Darling Harbour with its marina, shops, restaurant and tranquil Chinese Garden, or the bustling Rocks and Circular Quay areas.
How far are the beaches?
Sydney has lots of sandy beaches, within a short bus or ferry ride. Choose from sheltered harbour beaches like Manly Cove or family-oriented Shark Beach, or ocean beaches like Bondi and Tamarama, which are great for surfers.
What's on offer culturally?
The Opera House stages dance, theatre, concerts and film as well as opera. There are often free lunchtime and Sunday afternoon concerts.
The Powerhouse Museum, housed in an old power station, is worth a visit, and the Art Gallery of New South Wales in the Domain area is a must for art lovers.
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| | | Cosmopolitan cuisine | | Where's good for nightlife?
There are plenty of good pubs, especially round The Rocks area and lively Kings Cross. The ornate Marble Bar under the Royal Arcade, Pitt Street, has live blues and jazz.
Stand-up comedy thrives here - venues include The Comedy Store on Parramatta Road. Check out the Sydney Morning Herald Metro section on a Friday for more ideas.
What's the food like?
There's a huge choice of restaurants at all prices, offering all styles of cooking.
Modern Australian food mixes influences from the Mediterranean, Asia and California, and is available at street cafe to top restaurant level.
Chinatown in Dixon Street has good Chinese, Vietnamese, Japanese and Thai food. Great dining views are a feature of eating out in Sydney, especially around the harbour. Many restaurants offer a bring-your-own-wine option to keep costs down.
What should I buy?
Clothes, handicrafts, opals and antiques are alternatives to tacky souvenirs which are probably made outside Australia. Try the weekend markets at The Rocks or Chinatown, or discover the shops inside the impressive Queen Victoria Building on George Street.
Australian antiques can be found in Queen Street in Woollahra. The Akubra bushman's hat is widely available but try Strand Hatters in Pitt Street Mall for expert advice on the right fit.
What is there for children to do?
Sydney Aquarium is comprised of three oceanariums moored in the harbour, with sharks, rays, big fish and seals on view. Taronga Zoo, on a hillside overlooking the harbour, has more than 4,000 animals.
Explore Sydney Olympic Park at Homebush. Lots of great beaches for kids include Bronte with a toy train, picnic areas and safe swimming.
Tourist office
Australian Tourist Commission, Gemini House, 10-18 Putney Hill, London, SW15 6AA. Brochure line: 0906 8633235 (60p per minute).
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| | Fact File : Sydney |
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| | | Sydney | | Did you know?
The highest view is from Sydney Tower, a 300m viewpoint at the Centrepoint shopping centre.
Language
English
Visas
British citizens staying less than three months need a free electronic travel authority (ETA), which is invisibly scanned into your passport. Arrange it through any IATA-registered travel agent.
Getting there
Sydney airport is well served by many major carriers. There are direct flights, but all aircraft have to stop to refuel. An overnight stopover in, for example, Singapore, can help with jet lag.
Flying time from London
22 hours
Getting around
The city has an easy-to-use public transport system. Plenty of trains and buses, plus boats across the harbour and a monorail.
Currency
Australian dollar
Costs
Prices vary but as a guide: pint of beer £1, roll of film £1.50, moderate restaurant meal £10, litre of petrol 30p, short taxi ride £4.
Weather
Australian seasons are the reverse of ours. Sydney has a temperate climate, with the mercury rarely dropping below 10C (50F). Summer maximum is usually around 25C (77F) though during a really hot spell it can get up to 40C (104F). Torrential showers are common in Sydney between October and March.
Time difference
10 hours ahead of GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 61 2
Voltage
220-240 volts, AC 50Hz. The flat, three-pin power outlet is different from the UK, so you'll need an adaptor.
Opening hours
Shops generally 9am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat (some close early Saturday). Downtown shops often open Sundays. Banks are usually open 9.30am to 4pm. Post offices, 9am to 5pm Mon-Fri.
Health - Before you go
No jabs needed. The UK has reciprocal health arrangements with Australia via Medicare but you have to enrol for this and it doesn't cover all costs, so make sure you have sufficient travel insurance.
Health - When you are there
The sun can be very strong so drink plenty of water (at least four litres a day) and slap on the sunscreen. Hats should also be worn. Take things slowly until you adjust to the heat.
Warnings
Normal big city rules apply. Take extra care in the King's Cross area, which attracts all sorts of people, not all desirable.
Emergency
Police, Tel. 000. British High Commission, Commonwealth Avenue, Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT 2600, Tel. (61) 02 6270 6666.
Customs
Barbies on the beach at Christmas.
Pets
Australia is part of the PETS travel scheme under long-haul regulations. However, this is a long and complicated procedure requiring vaccinations, medical check-ups and route planning; it is not as simple as walking on and off a plane with your pet. Therefore the scheme is more suited to those returning from a long stay abroad, rather than the two-week holidaymaker. It takes several months to set up the relevant documentation; see your vet for further details.
Tipping
10% if you are feeling generous.
Tourist office
Australian Tourist Commission, Gemini House, 10-18 Putney Hill, London SW15 6AA. Brochure line: 0906 8633235 (60p per minute)
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| | Available rental properties in Sydney |
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| |  | | South Sydney Waldorf Apartment Hotel
South Sydney Central location, selection of studio & 1 bedroom hotel apartment accommodation suitable for short & extended stay
|  | | Bondi Breeze Executive Apartment
The Bondi Breeze Apartment has a rooftop pool with 360 degree views from the ocean beaches to the harbour bridge and gourmet chefs kitchen and spa bat
|  | | Bulli Beach House
Close to Sydney's attractions and just 100 metres to golden beaches . Fantastic restaurants, and 4 bedrooms/3 bathrooms for the ideal family holiday with cycling and walking tracks.
|  | | SAND-ON BULLI BEACH
100 metres to golden beaches , cycle and walking tracks, private 8 metre swimming pool.
Just a short drive to coastal villages, restaurants and shopping.
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Holiday Rentals in Sydney |
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