Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Spain / Canary Islands - Canaries / Tenerife
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| | | | Review by Angela Hall from London UK
Tenerife has something for everyone. Do your research and one shouldn't be disappointed with their visit.
Get all gorgeous in Santa Cruz
I had dinner with Fidel Castro, Kermit the Frog and Michael Jackson last week. Before you ask, no, there weren't any magic mushrooms on the menu. I was in Tenerife's capital, Santa Cruz, to experience Carnival, where dressing up like your favourite dictator or pop star is obviously de rigueur.
Despite being one of the world's largest carnivals, with over 200,000 visitors annually, the inhabitants of Santa Cruz de Tenerife seem to enjoy keeping the fortnight-long celebration a strictly local affair.
So there was bound to be controversy among the community when this year's organisers enlisted festival-director extraordinaire Rafael Amargo in from, gasp, Andalucia.
Confirming their worst suspicions, Amargo immediately set about bucking all the usual conventions. Firstly he refused to hold an open castings for the carnival queen contestants. Then he booked famous mainlanders to perform at the traditionally all-local 'Election of the Carnival Queen Night'.
Not that any of this was immediately obvious on the night to us non-Spanish-speaking Brits. We watched in blissful oblivion and actually joined in the jubilant cheering and exuberant foot stamping for famous Spanish band Dover. Only afterwards did we realise we'd actually been shouting: "fuente" or "get off". Oops.
The biggest genuine cheer of the night, went to the amateur clown group Ni Fu Ni Fa, one of the many Murgas, or comedy groups that make up amusing satirical songs about recent political events.
And the crowd perked up no end when it was time for the18 carnival queens to start strutting their stuff. Despite Amargo's insistence that the girls be pretty and thin, we discovered that neither were vital, winning criteria. Instead judges looked for how elaborate and innovative the costumes were, and how well the girls wiggled within them.
The eventual winner, Elisabet Garcia Garcia stood out straight away, with her neon flashing lights, James Bond theme tune and confident poise.
We next saw her and the three runners-up parading through Santa Cruz two nights later in the vibrant Carnival Parade. Families lined the parade route knee-deep with excitable children, all dressed in impressive fancy dress outfits - a Superman here, a shimmery mermaid there.
Not did the fancy dress end there. The parade is an opportunity for everyone to dress up, adults and children alike. Tonight you looked strange without an outlandish fancy dress outfit. Lucky I had my mask and feather boa then.
However, whatever the spectators wore literally paled into comparison with the hundreds of dancers, singers and bands that samba-ed through the streets until the early hours of the morning. There can't have been a single gold sequin, brightly coloured feather or shiny lurex catsuit left in any of the island's shops.
Group after group resembling extras from a Scissor Sisters video shimmied past us, each one performing a mini Fame-like dance routine to blaring music from loud speakers, or the deafening drum beat of accompanying musicians. The crowds danced along and everyone's spirits were sky high.
Drinking and dancing carried on till sunrise along the cobbled, pedestrianised streets of the town centre. Cocktails, beers and spirits were served in outdoor bars and the reliably warm Tenerife weather ensured that spirits weren't dampened by any unexpected rain.
As I wandered around leafy Park García Sanabria the next day, I was impressed to spot several hardcore party-goers, still in costume, still in high spirits, some still drinking beers as they swayed between sculptures.
Clearly, a little thing like Amargo the Andalucian taking the show over wasn't going to stop Tenerifians from letting their hair down and partying hard for another successive year.
After all, Carnival has been going nearly every year since 1496. Even during the Franco years when carnival was banned, it sneaked through by changing its name to The Winter Fiestas.
In fact, gently meandering through the sun-dazzled streets of Santa Cruz seemed the perfect way of walking off my post-carnival head. From Park Garcia Sanabria, I wandered down pedestrianised Calle Castilla, the main shopping street where Quiksilver, Zara and Massimo Dutti (its upmarket equivalent) were delightfully empty.
After some shopping I continued towards spacious Plaza de Espana where the Carnival Queen Election is normally held (this year, it was being refurbished). On the other side of the road is the palm-lined port and although Santa Cruz has no beach within the city, the Cesar Manrique-designed Lido is perfect to sunbathe, or join the locals who gravitate towards Teresitas, a 10-minute bus ride away.
My final stop was the historic old town of Santa Cruz, which dates back to the 18th century. Calle la Noria and surrounding streets are lined with traditional, one and two storey Canarian houses painted attractive terracottas and bright blues, perfectly off-set by the clear blue skies and wide cobbled streets.
Many have been converted into stylish bars and restaurants, serving Spanish and Canarian tapas dishes. A few hardcore locals nursed their hangovers al fresco with strong black coffee and even stronger black sunglasses.
As I sat down with a glass of local vino tinto in La Balsa Blues restaurant, it felt impossible to believe I was in Tenerife. The British-run cafes, rowdy beach bars and lobster-pink Brits were nowhere to be found.
So if you're looking for a cultural, historic winter-sun holiday that will confound your expectations, Santa Cruz is the place to come.
- For more information about Tenerife, visit www.webtenerife.com. For reservations at the Sheraton Mencey Hotel, see www.sheraton.com/mencey. Low-cost airline Monarch offers flights to Tenerife from Birmingham, London Gatwick, London Luton and Manchester. Single fares start from £62.50pp. Seee www.flymonarch.com or tel: 08700 40 63 00.
* If you like the sound of the Tenerife Carnival, you might like to visit:
Rio
Trinidad & Tobago
New Orleans
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Head for quieter Las Galletas
My family and I visited Tenerife last year. We stayed in Las Galletas, which was a very quiet part of the island.
The name of the hotel/apartment we stayed at was Ten Bel. This was average, with a very large, infinity pool. We stayed on a self catering basis. It was a cheap and cheerful deal so not much to complain about. You have to make the most of it.
As my sister was there at the same time, we stayed with her in Playa, which is livelier than Las Galletas.
Tenerife is a nice place with a nice climate. I will go back in six weeks, staying in Costa Adeje. Tenerife is the most favourite of the Canary Islands.
It has nice, friendly people, and is easy on the pocket for eating out. Taxis are on hand for the journeys uphill, and Playa is in reach of other areas such as Los Christianos.
My sister did the crusie trip to Santa Cruz and loved every moment of it. There's lots of water parks for the kids too.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
A great family holiday
We had never been abroad before and we wanted somewhere not too far by plane. We went to Puerto de Santiago with our two girls aged 12 and 13, together with the in-laws.
We loved the place we stayed at which was an apartment over a little shopping complex. The people were friendly and it wasn't too busy.
We walked down to Los Gigantes harbour where there were so many big fish just waiting for a crisp or piece of bread to be thrown in.
We went on a boat trip and saw dolphins and had a wonderful meal of paella. We stopped on the way back in Masca Bay where husband and one of our girls went for a swim. Although it was a beautiful day, the water was freezing.
We went to Jungle Park at Playa de las Americas and the water park too.
I would go back again to the same place at the same time. I loved it.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Isle of contrasts
Los Cristianos is a small town in which you can have a relaxing peaceful holiday or a lively one. There are plenty of cheap, good-quality restaurants and bars where you can pay as little as £3.50 for a three-course meal.
The beaches all have clean white sand, and offer watersports if you wish. There are also weekly markets where you can buy local crafts and there are plenty of places to visit around the island.
Two miles up the road is Playa de Las Americas, which is very lively but a bit like Blackpool in the sun with its clubs and dirty streets. These two towns are completely opposite to each other and you will find the more sophisticated in Los Cristianos, whilst the lager louts club it up in Las Americas, which is also a lot more expensive - you could pay up to £5 for a drink.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Tenerife's classier alternative
Call me a snob, but I've always thought Tenerife was for people who didn't mind being packed like sardines on bland beaches in a sunnier version of the UK.
Now that I've been there, I can see that the millions of Britons who go annually do have a point.
There's no time difference, it's warm year-round and it's got some smashing luxury hotels in the south to be spoilt in.
The Costa Adeje is a classy corner of Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Isles, lapped by the Atlantic.
It's where the bulk of new five-star hotels in the country are being built, but there's a downside to that — rubble. It's dumped willy-nilly outside buildings, ruining the view. Thankfully this is temporary, because Adeje is affluent, peaceful and smart — a good place to recharge worn out batteries.
El Duque is the costa's small but perfectly formed dark sand beach.
Like the rest of the resort in Tenerife Sur, it's spotlessly clean (you hardly ever see cigarette butts on the ground) and sun loungers under cute thatch-roof tables are free to use.
Nearby, past a short wooden boardwalk and along a neatly marked out pathway, attractive restaurants and bars line up for business and staff never tout.
It's incredible to think that one of calm Costa Adeje's closest neighbours is Playa de Las Americas. The resort has a bad rep for being rowdy and it is noisier than Adeje, but in low season (March), it was full of middle-aged Britons enjoying the gentle sunshine.
It takes only a morning to stroll around Adeje's handful of shops, bars and restaurants.
When you've done that, book an island tour immediately. For 39 euros (£26), you get a day's noseying around Tenerife's best sightseeing stops.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
I fell in love
I have been to Tenerife twice and I too fell in love with the place. It is excellent and I definitely intend to go back when I leave school.
The people are really nice to you and Hotel Paradise Park in Los Cristianos is the best.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Tenerife revisited, the good and the bad
Having been to Puerto de la Cruz about 30 years ago, I was disappointed to see how tacky it's become. A last-minute booking had turned up a self-catering deal in Las Galletas, which was quiet but unremarkable.
I hired a car and set out to rediscover the island. Puerto didn't come up to my memories of it, but on the other side of the island Santa Cruz is still a pleasant working town, good for shopping and for mixing with real Canarians.
Las Canadas National Park is still the highlight of this island for me, with its lunar landscapes and imposing Mount Teide. You'd be mad to miss the chance to come here - and it's much better to drive yourself and take your time than go on an organised trip.
Los Gigantes - massive cliffs that drop sheer to the sea - always impress and it's a good place to stop for coffee. La Orotava is still well worth a visit with its graceful old houses, some with beautifully carved wooden balconies. There's a fine craft centre here, too. Driving the one-way system here can be a bit confusing, though.
All in all, Tenerife still has plenty to recommend it - not least the great year-round weather.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Something for everyone
The Brits have made southern Tenerife their base. The noisier, brasher, young set are in Los Americas and the older bunch are in Los Christianos. Pirate boats, whale watchers and kids paddle boats are at sea, and ashore there is Mount Teide and the run to Puerto de la Cruz via the Parrot Park, Golf and the Capital. There's food for all tastes. Self catering or all-inclusive, the food's good. The island's tax-free for booze and cigs.
There are quiet bits still to be found. Entertainment, from Gala Shows to sing-a-longs should suit everyone. Weather is best in spring or autumn: hot in summer, sunny in winter. It's greener up north. Walk along the prom with the rest of the world every evening. Go!
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Good for a budget break
My family and I visited Tenerife in 2005. We stayed in Las Galatas, which was a very quiet part of the island. This was average, with a very large sea-like pool. We stayed on a self catering basis.
As my sister was there at the same time, we stayed with her in Playa, which is livelier than Las Galatas.
Tenerife is a nice place with a nice climate, and I will be going back in six weeks, staying in Costa Adeje. I enjoy holidaying in Tenerife, and it is my most favourite of the Canary Islands.
The people are nice and friendly, it's easy on the pocket for eating out, taxi's are on hand for the journeys up hill, and Playa is within easy reach of other areas such as Los Christianos and Torviscos. My sister did the cruise trip to Santa Cruz and loved every moment of it. There were lots of water parks for the kids too.
We love Tenerife.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Tenerife - from peaks to parrots
The most popular resort in Tenerife is Playa de Las Americas, a sweaty purpose-built tourist city in the south of the island.
But Tenerife has an appeal that extends beyond fish 'n' chip shops and British pubs with names like Lady Di.
North of the imposing volcanic peaks that straddle its centre lie a string of pretty, peaceful little towns that exude easy-going charm.
One is the little coastal settlement of Garachico, where you can happily while away some hours wandering its steep winding roads and gazing at its fine old buildings.
You might want to join the locals for coffee in the shady main square, or try out one of the many fish restaurants.
Garachico is a pleasant, relaxing place to stay, so long as you don't mind the quiet. There are two small hotels, both situated around attractive courtyards.
A short drive up the coast, a sleepy old quarter and a bustling modern centre nudge comfortably up against each other in the town of La Orotava.
Its narrow streets nestle precariously against a mountain slope overlooking Tenerife's stunning northern coastline. Turn a corner, or peer between the buildings, and you are bound to catch the view.
Ornate, balcony-clad buildings, once home to Tenerife's leading families, now house craft shops and museums.
If you are a confident driver and have a strong stomach, you might like to motor along the hairpin-turned road that cuts through the mountains on Tenerife's north western tip. Break your journey at the tiny mountain village of Masca, which offers refreshments and great views.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
I fell in love
After the first visit to Tenerife, I fell in love with the island and its people, so much so, that we bought an apartment in Puerto de la Cruz.
The weather is likely to be more cloudy in the north but it is still possible to obtain a wonderful tan. We have been there and not seen a cloud for a month, but that is the luck of the draw.
The people in the north are typical, whereas, the people in the south are more holiday-orientated.
We have found great Spanish friends, who helped us to find great off-the-beaten-track bars and restaurants, half the price of the norm, with delicious local food.
If the weather is not so good in one area, hire a car and travel to another part of the island.
A Tenerife friend of ours told us: "The sun is always shining in one part of this beautiful island." This appears to be true, we have always managed to find the sun somewhere.
This year I have spent several months there and enjoy every minute of it. I tried to learn Spanish and even joined a local choir.
We are taking a short break in December of two weeks and will visit several little villages, Loro Parque, Las Canadas and Tiede.
It is a good idea to catch a bus, using a bono ticket, which reduces the price by half. The service is excellent, although the drivers do not always speak English. It is possible to visit all the island by Titsa Bus.
For dramatic views visit Masca, the Mercedes Mountains, the Anaga Range. For beaches the south is better, but Playa Teresitas, near Santa Cruz, with its backdrop of hills and its lagoon-like beach complete with palm trees takes some beating.
Puerto has lovely beaches, but some people have difficulty accepting black sand, although one does become used to it.
We have been going to Tenerife as often as we can, but maybe the future will see us dividing our time between Wales and Tenerife.
Travel Guide: Tenerife
If you want a party
If you want a party go here. If you want the sun go here. If you want to let your hair down go here.
If you want cheap drinks and a great laugh go here.
If you want a quiet drink and chilled out atmosphere stay in the UK - you aren't going to find it here!
It's a great laugh and lots of fun!!!!
Travel Guide: Tenerife
Superb ports of the Med
Sailing on the MSC Sinfonia in February wasn't just an excuse to escape the miserable Brit winter. Honestly.
No, this was a chance to sample the delights of Barcelona, Casablanca, Tenerife, Madeira, Malaga and Alicante - if I could be bothered to vacate my luxury penthouse cabin.
You see that's the problem with cruising. Sometimes it's hard to drag yourself away from all that pampering.
Okay, so after a severe badgering from my girlfriend, we disembarked at our first port of call, Barcelona.
This fantastic city needs no introduction and, having both been there before, we knew what to expect.
It was just a shame that we only had a little over half a day in this glorious port town. It didn't give you much time other than to take a stroll along Las Ramblas, the main shopping street.
After a brief stop in Barcelona, our ship sailed on to the Moroccan port town of Casablanca.
This was the longest single spell at sea, and the choppy waters of the Atlantic were most unwelcome after the millpond-like tranquility of the Med.
Fortunately the prospect of spending a day exploring the exotic back streets of Casablanca kept our spirits up - how deluded we were. I can honestly say Casablanca is one of the worst cities I have ever had the misfortune to visit.
Forget any romantic associations you may have with the classic Humphrey Bogart film of the same name. You won't find a smokey Rick's Club here with the sound of wartime jazz music wafting through the air. This is a grimy, filthy, dust-bowl of a city with a menacing feel to it.
Casablanca really did mark a low point in our cruise. It's hard to describe just how bad this place was. Imagine Coventry in a heat wave on the morning after a particularly savage wave of bombing during the blitz - that's modern day Casablanca.
Fortunately we were only there for the day and Tenerife was just a day's sail away. This was going to seem like paradise in comparison.
For me, the island's capital Santa Cruz was the highlight of our cruise destinations.
Located in the north of the island, it couldn't have been more different from the tourist hell that is Playa de las Americas on the south coast.
The Spanish-inspired architecture gave the town an almost South American feel and the locals we encountered couldn't have been more welcoming.
Sadly, the torrential rain ruined what could have been a lovely day in Madeira so the free sauna and massage onboard the MSC Sinfonia was a lot more appealing.
On the last two days, we made consecutive stop-offs in Malaga and Alicante. The Picasso museum in Malaga was a real treat, and a much-needed culture injection. In Alicante, the Castle of Santa Barbara on the outskirts of the city was a must see. You could just imagine an ancient garrison of soldiers sat here keeping a watchful eye over the old town.
A day here was just enough, leaving a final 48 hours at sea for some vital last minute pampering.
Our 10-day Mediterranean cruise was a great introduction to life on the ocean waves for first-timers.
It was also a brilliant way to cram a lot of sight-seeing into a short period of time, while there was always the option to kick back and stay on board if you wanted to take things easy.
On the downside, I would say some of the destinations were a bit unimaginative and sailing to three Spanish towns was too much.
There were organised excursions for all the destinations on this cruise, but my girlfriend and I decided to opt out. They were often pretty costly, about £100 per person. And the thought of being frog-marched around by a tour guide has never appealed to me.
For instance, the neck-breaking optional tour to Marrakesh after docking in Casablanca was way too much to do in one day. I'd rather go back and visit the city properly.
So would I do a cruise again?
On balance, I reckon I would, although I think I'd always have to do it in style, with a balcony and a large cabin. The thought of an inside cabin with no sea view just doesn't appeal.
That might be okay if you spend a lot of time off the boat, but we really wanted to use the trip as a chance to relax and unwind, and for that you need some serious luxuries.
* For reservations on MSC Sinfonia, call 0870 850 4883 or see www.msccruises.com
Travel Guide: Tenerife
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| | | | Crowded points of view
Parque Nacional del Teide, a volcanic region up in the clouds above Spain's highest village Vilaflor, is super. Resist picking up rocks or get fined.
It was blowing a gale and I'd just scraped hair off my face for a photo when an old woman barged in front of me to have her picture taken in my spot.
In Los Roques de Garcia, one of southern Tenerife's most visited natural attractions, you've got to elbow your way past thronging crowds to catch a view of its bizarre rocks.
It's a tourist trap, but the view is so intriguing that it's got to be done.
Boat trips, jeep tours and animal parks keep Tenerife Sur visitors busy. For an authentic view, try fishing villages.
La Caleta is a short taxi ride from Costa Adeje. It's not pretty but you can have a tasty fresh fish lunch with wine and tapas starters such as grilled shrimp in garlic here for under £15.
Menus tend to be in English and Spanish too, although the muddled translations don't always make things clearer.
When night falls, Playa de las Americas delivers more than a plethora of bars.
The Carmen Mota show at the Piramide de Arona centre is a modern take on flamenco with segments inspired by Bizet's opera Carmen. The dancers are superbly passionate.
- Cadogan Holidays has seven nights at five-star Gran Tacande, home to an excellent spa, in Costa Adeje from £669 per person. Call 023 8082 8300.
Cadogan Holidays is offering all viewers a special 15% discount on all holidays featured by the operator. To qualify for the discount readers must call Cadogan Holidays direct on 0800 3768300 quoting reference TFS0304.
Visiting the volcanoes
The largest tourist destination in northern Tenerife, Puerto de La Cruz, sprawls outward from a busy cobblestone harbour that teems with working fishing boats.
There are old churches to explore, and outdoor cafes where footsore sightseers can take a rest.
Visitors in July can watch the annual fishermens' festival, when a revered statue of the Madonna is launched out to sea, and locals celebrate with tears, dancing, and of course alcohol.
Puerto de La Cruz is also the unlikely location of one of the largest and most renowned parrot parks in the world.
Founded by a German entrepreneur with a passion for these brightly-feathered birds, Loro Parque is a commercial wildlife attraction that lays great stress on conservation issues.
It offers regular parrot shows - watch out for low flying birds - and more conventional dolphin and sea lion shows.
Northern Tenerife is an ideal base if you wish to visit Mount Teide, a live volcano and Spain's highest peak.
Hire a car or take an organised tour up the vertigo-inducing mountainside, and watch the scenery turn from pine forest to moonscape during your drive.
Tenerife was formed by a series of ancient volcanic eruptions, and you can trace old lava paths on its ethereal, many-coloured, rock-strewn slopes.
If you tend to wilt in the blasting heat of the mid-summer Mediterranean sun, the mild warmth of northern Tenerife may offer a welcome refuge.
The temperature averages a comfortable 23c over the year, although the occasional shower may interrupt the idyll.
You can explore northern Tenerife from five-star Hotel Botanico in Puerto de La Cruz. Prices for a week start at £539. Details: 0034 922 922381400.
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