Travel Guides: All Countries / North America / USA / Texas
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| | | | Safari without the bugs and bandits
From the Daily Mail
The herd of ghostly white antelopes drifted across the savannah, heading for the shade of the thorn trees in the shimmering noontide heat. 'Scimitar-horned oryx,' said the man from Ohio beside me in the zebra-striped Jeep. He focused his binoculars on the long line of animals as they trekked across the dry grass.
'So rare,' he said. 'I never thought I'd see so many of them.' 'They're really beautiful,' said his wife. 'You can't believe this is Texas. It's just as good as an African safari.' Her husband thought about this for a minute. 'Even better,' he said. 'We gotta real chance of gettin' outta here healthy and alive.'
The wide open spaces of the south-western United States, long famous for cowboys and longhorn cattle, are cashing in on a new fashion in travel. Today they are creating 'soft safaris' out on the range. As one Texas ranch owner told me: 'Today's traveller is said to be more adventurous than ever before, but the truth is that there's a big demand for low-tar adventures.
'Our Stateside safaris are just right for someone who wants to take videos of big wildlife, but who doesn't want insanitary accommodation, dull food and the risk of a bandit attack.' He added: 'Our largemouth bass fishing is another plus - it's the best anywhere.' So the old cowboy song about being home on the range, where the deer and the antelope play, has a new twist in Texas.
On the range today the deer and the antelope are playing their part in a booming business. There are still American deer and American antelope out there in the Lone Star State - about 2.5 million whitetailed deer at the last count - but they are rapidly being outnumbered by a manmade menagerie which has turned this Hill Country area into a bonanza zone for wildlife photographers.
Chances of seeing those graceful scimitar-horned oryx in the wild in their native Africa, for example, are very remote. A few are rumoured to survive in the central Sahara, but getting there is no fun, and they've probably been killed off by Kalashnikov-toting rebels.
So the news that this beautiful pale ghost of an antelope is thriving in Texas, on ranches and now in the unfenced national parks, is a pleasant surprise. Far from being endangered, the oryx are described as 'breeding like mice' and the herds on the American grasslands are numbered in thousands.
Vast spreads such as the 100 square mile YO Ranch at Mountain Home and the 777 Ranch at Hondo are opening their gates to tourists who want to see dramatic animals such as oryx and ibex, bongo and buffalo - all in large numbers, all up close. And all are in settings so natural that many professional wildlife cameramen are now grabbing their 'darkest Africa' shots within hailing distance of a comfortable U.S. lodge.
Only an hour's drive beyond the guitar-pluckers in the bars of Bandera - the 'Cowboy Capital of the World' - the Hill Country has herds of animals which have vanished from most of their original homelands. Once-rare Indian blackbuck are now even a pest in the suburban gardens of San Antonio. Biologist Bernard da Silva told me: 'The landscape looks like South Africa's Kruger Park, but it seems to be a perfect new home for almost every kind of game.'
Travel guide: Texas
A big Texas welcome for wannabe range rovers
From the Daily Mail
'Those are buzzards,' said Jeanne, pointing at the birds circling overhead. 'Lookin' for somethin' dead to eat. So you and me'd better look lively. Yes-sir!' She laughed, flicked the reins, and the two of us set off at a canter down the trail, our horses bounding forward in long, easy strides.
Jeanne Beauxbeannes leads guided trail rides into the Texas Hill Country, an exhilarating experience. Wind in our hair, Jeanne and I climbed steadily towards West Point, the highest spot in the Hill Country State Natural Area. There, we stopped to admire the view.
The horses stamped beneath us on red earth dotted with cacti. A carpet of Mountain Cedar trees lay spread out on the plain. Beyond them lay the blue-ridged hills that would take you all the way to Mexico, if you rode that far. We headed back to the ranch at a trot, whooping with pleasure.
Staying on a 'dude', or guest ranch, in the U.S. has never been more popular with Britons. You won't be asked to mend fences or rope steers, but you will get a taste of life on the range.
Some ranches cater exclusively to tourists, with swimming pools, bars and luxury cabins. Others are working ranches, their drawling cowboys and herds reminding you that, in America, cattle farming is a way of life that hasn't changed in centuries.
This being Texas, one thing that all ranches share is hospitality. 'Howdy, pardner - welcome to the Twin Elm,' said a cowboy as I stepped out of the car. 'How y'all doin' today?' Yes, they really talk like that.
Travel guide: Texas
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| | | | Overrun by Emu
One of the pioneers of the Texas safari is the 777 Ranch at Hondo. The little town is on the road west out of San Antonio, which tourists visit for the Alamo and for its roller-coaster parks. There's not much to Hondo, apart from a big welcome sign which says: 'This is God's Country. Please don't drive through it like Hell.' But it is now drawing its own visitors.
Over a turkey sandwich with gravy in one of the town's diners, I asked Kevin Christiansen of the 777 how he saw the future of the game ranches. He said: 'Our main income has traditionally been hunting, which is the reason these game animals were introduced here. But we've diversified and we are now offering photo safaris, even day-trips from San Antonio. The future really depends on tourism.' The tourists like what they find, staying in modern lodges on the 777 or 150-year-old cabins on the YO Ranch.
Are there any problems? Jim Hanks, a guide on the YO Ranch, told me: 'You could say the emu was a problem. 'A few years back, financiers were coming to us and asking how they could get in on the ostrich and emu boom. Now they're coming back and asking if we'd like some for free, you understand. The emu business just died.'
And when the YO declines the offer, the owners of the now-worthless ostriches and emus tip them out on the ranch at night and let the flightless birds take their chance. There are emus everywhere, much to the annoyance of the famous longhorn cattle on the ranch.
I asked Jim his opinion of emus. 'They got a two-watt brain,' he said. 'When it's lit.'
Native wildlife has not been displaced by the 50 species of exotic animals that now roam the range. Wild turkeys stroll on the roadsides among the vivid flowers of verbena, sage and paintbrush. Roadrunners sprint down the track ahead of your rented car, whitetail deer plunge into the brush and brilliant painted buntings sing in the treetops.
The summer landscape is fiercely bright and hot, just like Africa. So the cool showers and great food in the air-conditioned lodges are an all-American bonus after your soft safari in the bush.
'Cowboy capital of the world'
The Twin Elm is a small ranch a few miles north of the town of Bandera, with snug wooden cabins, a games room and a swimming pool.
Cowboys are on hand to show guests around, take them out for horse rides, even offer advice on cowboy style. In the horse corral, I saw a cowboy teaching some children how to toss a lariat.
Stetsons, it seems, are obligatory. And the only acceptable jeans are Wrangler - not for the name, but because with no inner seam they don't chafe the legs when riding.
At sundown, the Twin Elm's Mexican cook rattled his triangle, and we all headed off to eat in the outdoor dining area. Dinner was not beans and rice, as you might expect, but excellent spaghetti bolognese.
Later we sprawled round the campfire as a cowboy with a guitar sang Blue Moon Of Kentucky and a silver moon came out from behind the stars. Perfect.
The town of Bandera calls itself the 'cowboy capital of the world'. It's an endearing, no-frills place, with one main road running through a strip of ramshackle buildings.
There are a few bars, restaurants and souvenir shops, but Bandera has resisted the urge to sell its soul for tourist dollars. Instead, like the rest of Texas, it takes life as it comes.
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| | | | Louisiana oysters and tequila
One of Bandera's attractions is its proximity to San Antonio, which is less than an hour's drive away. This city has transformed itself in recent years into one of America's most popular tourist towns.
A once-derelict stretch of the San Antonio River running through the city centre has been cleaned up, revitalised and given the name 'Paseo del Rio', or River Walk.
An easy two-mile stroll takes you under little wrought-iron bridges, through shady gardens, and past open-air restaurants and bars where, on warm evenings, diners sit surrounded by rose-sellers, strolling musicians and glittering fireflies.
The border with Mexico lies just a 100 miles away, and more than 60% cent of San Antonio's population is Hispanic.
The Mexican side of town lies around the old covered market. There you can buy everything from brightly coloured blankets to bottles of industrial-strength tequila.
Outside, old boys sit in the shade exchanging lazy Spanish greetings, and the venerable La Margarita restaurant, in a lovely colonial building, sells its special 'Margarita Magnifica' and a half-dozen Louisiana oysters for less than £6.
In Bandera it was party night.
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| | | | Love songs at the Silver Dollar Saloon
At the Dixie Dude ranch, cowboy Dusty Britches (I kid you not) was giving a riding demonstration on his horse, Noah.
Noah pawed the air and then stood on a seesaw and stayed still as Dusty climbed into his saddle and stood up, twirling a flaming lariat around in circles.
One of the other cowboys commented that Dusty was 'likely to kill himself with that fool behaviour', but he carried on regardless. The children in the audience watched in awe. This was far more entertaining than anything they had seen on TV or at the cinema.
Later, everyone headed into town to watch Dusty in another guise - that of musician. Dusty and his group, the Rhythm Ranch Hands, were playing Western Swing music, with bass, fiddle and guitar, at the Silver Dollar Saloon.
Dusty crooned about lost love. Off-duty cowboys in their best jeans and stetsons flirted with girls as middle-aged couples two-stepped across the floor.
When you say goodbye in Texas, everyone says more or less the same thing: 'Y'all come back now,' or 'Don't be a stranger!' The funny thing is, this being Texas, they mean it. Yes-sir!
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| | Destination Guide : Texas |
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| | | Spectacular scenery |  | Why go on holiday to Texas?
The second-largest state in the union has varied and spectacular scenery - huge mountain ranges and canyons in the west; plantations, lakes and pine forests in the east; plains to the north; and citrus groves, beaches and the Gulf of Mexico in the south.
Oil has made this a rich as well as proud place - as the booming cities of Dallas, Houston and Austin show. Close cultural links with Mexico lend a Hispanic influence to the food and music scene.
How much does it cost?
A flight-only deal direct to Dallas or Houston costs from £250 if you shop around but expect to pay nearer £450. Downtown city hotels can be pricey (from £70) but on the outskirts of the cities rooms cost from £40.
On the Gulf coast, motel rooms go from £15-£20. A 14-day combined package tour of Texas (10 days) and New Mexico (four days) costs from around the £1,000 mark.
When should I go?
The size and varied terrain of Texas makes it hard to generalise. During summer it gets very hot in most parts. Other parts can get very humid - Dallas, for example gets very sweaty in January, while folks in El Paso wouldn't know what humidity means.
State average temperatures are 50F (10C) in winter, 85F (30C) in summer, though it hikes up to around 100F (38C) in the Rio Grande valley in summer. Texas is subject to tornadoes, with around 130 a year.
Hurricanes also happen sometimes due to the proximity to the Gulf.
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| | | Big city life |  | What should I do when I'm there?
The US's fourth-largest city, Houston is a modern, wealthy metropolis with the skyscrapers to prove it. Visit the Civic Centre, the Sam Houston Historical Park and the old market square. Space cadets will enjoy the Lyndon B Johnson Space Center.
Dallas is an elegant, high-rise haven of culture. Cosmopolitan but welcoming, its rich history makes it a rewarding destination.
Outside the shimmering, modern city centre the West End Historic District has 100-year-old buildings converted into museums, shops and restaurants. At Reunion Tower take the glass elevator up 50 storeys to the observation terraces and restaurant.
Dealey Plaza, where Kennedy was assassinated, has an exhibit on that shocking event. Meanwhile, Southfork Ranch offers a soapy day out for the terminally uninspired.
Where can I see a cowboy?
Fort Worth is a good ole Texan cow town and much of the Old West survives to this day. Visit the stockyards on Northside and you almost expect John Wayne to come ambling round the corner.
The art museums are a treat for cowboy fans - the Amon Carter Museum of Western Art, the Sid Richardson Collection of Western Art and the Fort Worth and Kimbell Art museums all have works by Frederic Remington and other frontier brush twirlers.
For a real treat take the trip to Abilene, which has a reconstructed frontier settlement. It was one of the most notoriously wild towns in the west and residents included Wild Bill Hickock and John Wesley Hardin.
Where can I learn about the Alamo?
San Antonio is one of the most Spanish cities in Texas, with old colonial buildings and a fiesta lifestyle.
Its most famous landmark is the Alamo, a fort where in 1836 a small band of independence-seeking Texans fought furiously to the death against the massed armies of the Mexican despot Santa Anna.
Davy Crockett, Jim Bowie et al became instant martyrs and the Alamo a symbol of Texan pride and bravery. The story is told in a huge IMAX theatre nearby.
Where can I chill out?
Texas has some 600 miles of beautiful beaches lapped by warm coastal waters - Galveston Island alone (one hour's drive from Houston) has 32 miles of family-style beaches. Or get back to nature with a trip to Big Bend National Park in south-west Texas.
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| | | Giant steaks, great seafood | | Where's good for nightlife?
If it's a real taste of Texas you want, then head for Fort Worth, where country and western is king. Beautiful Austin, the state capital, is famed for its live music venues.
6th Street is the centre of activity as folk amiably stumble between soul, jazz, R&B and country and western bars. San Antonio offers traditional "Tejano" sounds among many others (Dixieland is strong here) - the Paseo del Rio is the nightlife centre.
What's the food like?
This is cattle country and consequently you will never want for a steak (usually the size of a mattress). Cows aside, Dallas alone has more than 500 restaurants of all kinds, so choice is not a problem.
A local speciality here is catfish fried in cornmeal batter and the chicken-fried steak is good. Houston offers great seafood from the Gulf of Mexico, and Spanish and Mexican dishes.
San Antonio is the Tex-Mex capital of the world and all the spicy favourites are available in abundance.
What should I buy?
Jeans and cowboy gear (hats, boots, shirts, etc) are typically Texan. Or nip across the border to buy Mexican silver and leather goods. Central Texas has loads of factory outlets to snap up a bargain.
Houston and Dallas both have ritzy all-you-could-want malls called The Galleria. In Austin try The Arboretum. Remember to check your customs allowance coming back into the UK before you run amok or you may be liable for duty.
What is there for children for do?
Major theme parks include San Antonio's Sea World and Six Flags Over Texas (between Dallas and Fort Worth), one of the oldest and biggest amusement parks in the US. Dallas has two large aquariums.
The Houston Zoological Gardens Discovery Centre has a collection of friendly furry critters for kids to pat. Basically, there's something for kids around every corner.
Tourist office
Texas Tourism, Molasses House, Clove Hitch Quay, Plantation Wharf, London SW11 3TN. Tel. 020 7978 5233.
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| | Fact File : Texas |
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| | | Texas | | Did you know?
The world's first computer chip was produced by Texas Instruments in Dallas in 1958.
Language
English; secondary languages, especially Spanish
Visas
All British passport holders, including children, travelling to the USA under the visa waiver programme will need their own machine-readable passports (MRP). Anyone without an MRP, including children who are currently on a parent's passport, will need a visa to travel to the USA.
Getting there
Direct flights from the UK to Dallas/Fort Worth and Houston.
Flying time from London
11 hours
Getting around
Greyhound and local bus services are extensive, cheap and efficient. Trains are surprisingly impractical and not always comfortable; flying is relatively inexpensive. Car hire is another option but you need to be aged over 25.
Currency
US dollar
Costs
Moderate restaurant meal £10-£15; bottle of beer £1-£2; roll of camera film £3-£4; four-mile taxi ride £6; litre of petrol around 30p. All prices will fluctuate.
Weather
The size and terrain produces a variety of weather but during summer it gets very hot in most parts. Some parts get very humid, such as Dallas in January. With little rain, state average temperatures are 50F (10C) in winter and 85F (30C) in summer, though it hits around 100F (38C) in the Rio Grande valley. Texas has about 130 tornadoes a year.
Time difference
Central Time is six hours behind GMT, Mountain Time seven.
International dialling code from the UK
00 1 then: Austin 512, Dallas 214, El Paso 915, Fort Worth 817, Houston 713.
Voltage
110 volts (60hz) with two flat-pin plugs. You'll need dual voltage appliances and an adaptor.
Opening hours
Shop hours are roughly the same as the UK, but in malls shops often stay open until 9pm. Bank hours are same as UK.
Health - Before you go
No jabs required. Medical costs are high so take out adequate health insurance.
Health - When you are there
Make sure you are protected against the sun and drink plenty of water if heading into areas like the hot Rio Grande Valley. Mosquitoes are problem in the south and coastal areas, so use a good repellent.
Warnings
Hurricanes and tornadoes will be preceded by warnings and instructions on what to do. Hurricane season is June to November. Take care of personal possessions. Remember the legal drinking age is 21.
Emergency
Police, dial 911. British Embassy, 3100 Massachusetts Avenue NW, Washington DC 20008, Tel. 202 588 6500.
Customs
Big hats, big cars and beef with everything.
Pets
The US is part of the PETS travel scheme but it can take months to organise. Your vet should be able to help you arrange the correct injections and documentation.
Tipping
15-20% expected in restaurants and better hotels, nothing in fast food outlets or self-service places. Taxi drivers expect around 15%.
Tourist office
Texas Tourism, Molasses House, Clove Hitch Quay, Plantation Wharf, London SW11 3TN, Tel. 020 7978 5233.
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