Travel Guides: All Countries / Europe / Turkey
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| | | | Win the lottery and retire
I have been to Turkey twice in the last two years and found the place beautiful. The people are so friendly and helpful (especially when you are out shopping).
The climate is very hot and the food is very good.
The first place I stayed was just outside Hisaranou (Ovacik) which was very nice I would recommend a holiday there to anyone and when I win the lottery I shall definitely retire there.
Travel Guide: Turkey
We'd go again
We stayed at the Demir hotel in Torba. It was a last minute bargain and I must say it was very basic - but so was the price we paid.
Staff were wonderful. The food was Turkish - not to everyone's taste but we didn't expect egg and chips so we were more than happy. We would go again anytime.
Travel Guide: Turkey
To the East, for a bath
From the Daily Mail
Marble floors. Stone basins. Copper bowls with beautiful Islamic designs. The drip and splash of water. Damp, pressing heat. And everywhere, steam, steam, steam.
All at once, out of the swirling mists of the Beldibi Hamam in Marmaris, Turkey, appeared an elderly man carrying a pink pillowcase. I eyed him warily from my position on a sopping marble plinth.
He had already loofahed me to the colour of a freshly cooked prawn, held out the grey twists of dead skin and said, unnecessarily: 'Dirty!' Then he dropped a bar of soap into the wet pillowcase, rubbed it vigorously, blew into it to produce a cotton balloon and used it to cover me in bubbles.
Afterwards, I sat swathed in white towels, thinking that it was like a soft, pink, girlie car wash. I've never forgotten it.
Purists of the Turkish bath (known as a hamam) will already be curling their lips, for the fact that he was a man reveals that I was in a tourist hamam, rather than in the authentic local version (where people go to get clean and have a good gossip).
In the latter, the sexes never, ever mix. The Marmaris hamam came early in my Turkish bath career; followed by one in Bodrum, in a domed building with sunlight pouring through a vent in the roof.
Then, in Istanbul, I discovered the magnificent twin baths - one side for men, one side for women, many of them famous architecturally - which dot the city.
The bathing experience is even more intense when you can step off the hot, busy streets of a huge metropolis and be steam-cleaned and on your way in an hour or two.
Their history is fascinating, too. Under the great Sultan Suleiman (1494 to 1566), water was piped to Istanbul all the way from the Belgrade Forest, which lies in the mountains to the north of the city, via aqueducts and vaulted tunnels.
The real thing reached Turkey via Rome and Byzantium, and fitted in perfectly with Islamic notions of cleanliness and propriety. In a proper hamam, men would never bathe naked.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Take the dreamboat
From the Mail on Sunday
What could be better than to be in Turkey while the country was doing so brilliantly in the World Cup!
I cafe-hopped from port to port on a wonderful boat. It was a joy. Even when the Turks finally lost to Brazil they were incredibly good natured about it.
'Ah well, we got much further than we expected,' one man said to me.
Sailing in southern Turkey is hard to beat - but it does depend how you do it.
My wonderful week at sea was arranged by American friends of mine.
I thought that the southern coast of Turkey had been ruined since the only other time I came here in August 1968. Lots of parts have been ruined by the insatiable appetite of northern Europeans for cheap holidays in the sun.
Bodrum, a lovely little seaport where we stayed back then, is now filled with trashy pubs where young Brits and others drink too much. But it remains beautiful.
Marmaris, a fishing village levelled by an earthquake in 1957, is now the principal tourist resort along the southern coast; Kusadasi and Antalya have been taken over by Russians.
But there are huge stretches of the coastline which are still completely unspoiled and are best seen by boat. And that, rather than jammed ports and noisy discos, was what we were after.
There are boats and boats and boats plying along the southern Turkish coast. Most are gulets, a distinctive Turkish type - beamy, with a high poop deck, with tall masts on which the sails are rarely set.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Set sail on a grand Grandi
From the Daily Mail
Watching the sun set from our vantage point on an Anatolian hillside, I realised with a sudden shock that as far as the eye could see there was no sign of human life.
Not a house, farm, animal, car or even a road. Only our boat in the bay below broke the vast panorama of deep blue water, curving inlets and pine-clad coastal hills stretching to the shadowy outline of the island of Kos 20 miles distant.
Only by sea can one reach somewhere so remote. My companion John and I had joined a sailing cruise round the south coast of Turkey run by the Dutch firm Tussock, on boats carrying between six and 18 passengers.
On ours, Grandi I, 10 mahogany-panelled double cabins with tiled shower rooms next door, a central lounge-cum-galley-cum-wheelhouse and an afterdeck neatly fitted into her 27m length.
To look after the 14 of us was a crew of five, of which only the captain and the cook failed to join the frenzied few minutes of activity that saw her four square metres of sail hoisted up masts of 21m and 24m respectively.
Grandi I was made almost entirely of wood, from mahogany and pine to the teak deck, warm and absolutely smooth, on which going barefoot was not only enjoyable but compulsory.
'We came knowing what to expect,' said radiographer Alison Maw, there with her company director husband Brian, from Clitheroe, Lancashire. 'Brian's very into sailing.'
But you don't have to be a sailor to enjoy life on board. Another of our group, Brian Beaumand, a former Merchant Navy officer and then director of an engineering company, decided to come at the last minute. 'I thought it would be something different,' he said.
It took no time at all to sink into a sybaritic life of constant attention, delicious food and idle lolling in the sunshine - average daily temperature 32c - with a glass of wine to hand whenever one wanted it.
After our first breakfast - filter coffee, sliced melon, oranges, tomatoes, cheese and hard-boiled eggs, bread bought fresh that morning, yoghurt and honey - Captain Umit brought out his chart to explain where we would be going that morning.
'The first one-and-a-half hours will be by motor,' he told us, 'to save lengthy tacking. Then - after we turn here - we go by sail.'
Travel Guide: Turkey
Run the bazaar gauntlet
My husband and I fell in love with Turkey six-seven years ago, we have been to Olu Deniz, Altinkum, Marmaris and Bodrum. We are going hopefully twice this year and cannot wait,
We have even persuaded friends to come as well. I have read other letters on your page and find some of the comments sad, a holiday is what you make it and there are going to be good and bad wherever.
The people are so friendly and very amusing - a walk through a bazaar is a little like running a gauntlet but it is great fun, the night life is brilliant with very reasonable delicious food and great bars and you are always made to feel welcome.
A kiss on the hand from a nice Turkish man when you enter a bar and the attention you receive after are second to none (but it may be my age).
If you get the chance to go to Turkey take it you will not be disappointed.
Travel Guide: Turkey
My rover's return to Turkey
My first trip to Turkey was a nightmare. I won't go into detail, but suffice it to say that there was, and still is, a Rovers Return in Olu Deniz (the resort I stayed in).
So you can imagine that when Steve MacDonald - the character I play in Coronation Street - turned up, the holidaymaking Brits were amazed.
This time round, though, my friend Rob and I were going to Kas and then on to Kalkan, two resorts on the southern coast of Turkey where you would be hard pressed to find drunken Brits doing the conga.
From Manchester we flew to Dalaman airport and were ferried by car to our first resort. We quite liked Kas. It was pretty but lacked atmosphere somehow.
Kalkan, on the other hand, was a delightful place.
Someone we met said: 'You're not going to tell them how lovely it is, are you? It's just that we want to keep it a secret.' Well, the secret's out.
This is a place where narrow streets wind down to a beautiful little harbour and where carpet shops, jewellery shops and traditional Turkish merchandise spills into the streets from cool boutiques.
Every day the temperatures soared to more than 100F.
We discovered the joys of Kalkan's air-conditioned bars too late to really benefit from the reprieve they afforded us.
Our hotel was more than a mile out of town, so you have to hire cabs at 3,750,000 Turkish lira a time (about £2) or get a Jeep, which is what we did.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Mucking about is a Turk's delight
From the Daily Mail
Bloodcurdling screams punctuated by banshee shrieks of laughter rang round the old dome of Kusadasi's public baths, as a young man from Birmingham discovered that, yes, his body could be bent into a figure of eight. It was possible to touch the tip of his nose with his toes - with just a bit of extra help. The masseur grinned, slapped him on the back and motioned for his next victim to step forward.
Taking a Turkish bath has become one of the great must-do experiences in Kusadasi, the popular port on Turkey's Aegean coast, and it is a good example of how much this part of the world has adapted to tourism. Ten years ago, the thought of giving a mixed group of visitors, men and women, a rubdown in a traditional hamam would have been unthinkable; these days it barely raises an eyebrow in the main tourist towns.
It is this exotic but friendly face that has helped Turkey become a favourite summer hot spot for hundreds of thousands of British tourists. This year, it is expecting to break the million barrier for UK visitors.
Turkey has also become extremely affordable. Coupled with the Turks' instinctive and unaffected love of children, it's a great family option. Most Britons head for a resort on the Aegean coast. The sunshine is dependable, the sea is warm and the restaurants are unlikely to break the budget. You can expect many things to cost half what they would at home.
KUSADASI
A busy working port and commercial centre, Kusadasi is a popular holiday town, but it is still peaceful in the old Kale district first thing in the morning, or along the seafront at dusk. The port is a springboard to some great historical sites, such as Ephesus, 20 minutes away, or the travertine terraces at Pammukale. Altinkum, a resort further down the coast, is handy for the Temple of Apollo at Didyma. For nightbirds, the action is in noisy Pub Street in the centre of town with its Irish and German bars.
ADVANTAGES: Good for Ephesus and Pammukale.
DISADVANTAGES: Very little for young families; beaches are poor.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Cruise packed with Turkish delight
Embarking on your first sailing trip to an uncharted land with a boat full of strangers is like throwing yourself in at the deep end.
Those were the fears I had at the start of my cruising holiday in Turkey.
But the crew's warm welcome put me at my ease as soon as I boarded the luxurious, modern gulet (wooden yacht) with my fellow passengers in Bodrum, in the country's south west region.
The first thing I had to do was to get to know the other holidaymakers cruising around Bodrum with me.
We sat down to our first supper, authentic Turkish cuisine, freshly-prepared by the cook on board. This was washed down with copious amounts of alcohol from the well-stocked bar.
Socialising with my companions, who came from all walks of life, was easy in these lush, congenial surroundings.
As we were on a boat and not staying in a hotel, it was easy to visit many of the legendary beautiful bays near Bodrum.
When we awoke on our first morning we visited tiny and tranquil Castel.
It was easy to enjoy its simple beauty — the part pebble and part sand beach and wild, overgrown woodland — as there wasn't a single tourist or local in sight.
From Castel it was a short trip to Gumusluk, a sleepy seaside town with a cluster of shops. We bought gorgeous handmade gold and silver jewellery. When night fell we got tipsy on Raki, a heady local aniseed spirit in one of the beach hut-style rooftop bars.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Not for clubbers
We stayed in the Simay apartments in Side and were very happy with the service and accommodation.
Side would not suit people who want a clubbing type holiday, but we found the tavernas etc great fun and cheap prices.
All in all a great holiday and the white water rafting trip is a must.
Travel Guide: Turkey
A good beach holiday resort
This was a very, very good holiday that I enjoyed so much that I am going back in six weeks - just eight weeks after my last visit.
The people are very nice and make you feel welcome. The weather is lovely and the resort is beautiful. The nightlife is also very good.
It was an all-round excellent holiday.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Gumbet is paradise
My friend and 1, both of us 19 year old single girls, went to Gumbet last July. It was a last minute deal and neither knew the first thing about the place or the country.
I am glad I acted on impulse. It turned out to be the best thing I ever did. We both absolutely loved it - it was amazing. It was so good we went back six weeks later. We were just blown away.
Our hotel was pretty basic as were most in the town, but it was spotless so it didn't matter. And the staff couldn't do enough for you.
We had a great laugh with them. They go out of their way yo make sure you are having lots of fun.
We went into Bodrum on one night on our second trip but there was more than enough iin Gumbet to keep us entertained - endless restaurants bars and clubs so your guaranteed to find something for everyone's taste.
The shopping is fantastic. I was in heaven. Brilliant bags, ornaments and souveniors, some gorgeous clothes and if you have a good look, you'll find really decent quality fakes, also for the gold and leather. It's top quality stuff at knock down prices.
This place was paradise, with glorious weather and beautiful beaches, unbelievably hospitable people and fantastic nightlife. Although single lads might be disappointed, the girls will definitely leave with a smile on their face.
Travel Guide: Turkey
When is a holiday not a holiday?
From the Daily Mail
When you are accompanied by teenage girls. For the knowledge that you're heading to the sun with two young women who want to go clubbing every night is bound to fill even the most easygoing parent with trepidation. After Majorca last year - our first family holiday where a curfew was a major bone of contention - the thought of going through it all again in Turkey made me apprehensive.
So is it possible to go on holiday with teenagers and still enjoy yourself? Yes - eventually. In Majorca, an uneasy truce had been reached. But whatever time we agreed, my wife and I found we couldn't get off to sleep properly until we knew Holly, our daughter, and Sophie, her cousin, were back at the hotel.
This time, we reckoned that as they were now 17-year-olds, it could be the last occasion they would be prepared to go away with us, so we opted for Marmaris, a lively town on the eastern Mediterranean with plenty of night life to keep the girls happy.
When the first couple of evenings passed with them returning earlier than the time we had set- albeit at 2.30am - it was clear we were fighting a losing battle against a couple of streetwise teenagers who knew how to handle parents. It also helped that they seemed to be happy with the bars and clubs a walk away from the hotel, along a well-lit promenade, rather than the more raucous Bar Street in central Marmaris.
From then on, having also been reassured by the local tour rep how safe the girls would be, we agreed a time with them, set our alarm and went to sleep. With a couple of exceptions, they returned when they said they would, apparently sober, and my wife, brother-in-law and I were able to relax and get on with our holiday.
Not that the girls saw much of the mornings. With one exception, they were strangers to breakfast and only passing acquaintances with lunch.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Pamper yourself with a Turkish bath
We went to Gumbet in June and the weather was lovely. The holiday itself was great.
We stayed at the Hotel Simba. It was a great hotel, especially the amazing bar staff that gave great entertainment all day long. We stayed at the hotel most of the time as we didn't think much to the beach.
We went for a Turkish bath which was lovely - it made your skin feel great. In August, we hope to go back ias we enjoyed it so much.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Ten out of ten
I am just back from Kusadasi and it was the holiday of a lifetime. The hospitality was great, the food and the nightlife too.
The only bad thing? Hassle in the shops to buy everything,
I really want to go back. Ten out of ten!
Travel Guide: Turkey
Enjoy a traditional pampering
Marmaris, Icemeler, Bodrum and Gumbet each has its own lasting memories and we'd return to any or all of them. But there are also other great locations to try.
Wherever you decide to go, don't forget a trip to Pamukkale. It's a must and Ephesus is not to be missed.
Everyone who goes to Turkey should try an authentic Turkish bath at a hammam.
It's something you will either love or hate but if you hate it, you're obviously not one that likes to be pampered.
Travel Guide: Turkey
From Russia with Rugs
From the Mail on Sunday
From Russia With Love is a satisfying film, especially if, like me, you have just got back from Istanbul, where most of the action takes place.
In his second outing as 007, Sean Connery, resplendent in tailored grey silk, zooms about Istanbul planning to bash up SPECTRE, sort out some tarra-diddle about encoding machines and simultaneously bonk a blonde double-agent dolly-bird.
I'm a little hazy on the plot because while I was watching the film at home with the children, I felt that although they had missed the trip to Turkey, they needn't miss out on my fascinating insights.
I kept interrupting the action with scintillating facts and they kept losing the plot. 'Look, that's the broken city wall below the Blue Mosque!' I announced. Or 'He's in the Grand Bazaar now. Your mother bought an embroidered sack for 50 quid up there.'
And a little while later I was able to tell them: 'Look, that's the palace on the banks of the Bosphorus that's now been turned into an expensive hotel where, interestingly, John F. Kennedy spent his honeymoon.'
The children finally lost patience: 'Shut up!' I was not deterred: 'There's Hagia Sophia! First built as a Christian church and only later converted to a mosque. You don't actually have to go on the guided tour as 007 is doing, and it was a lot more crowded.' My son screamed as I made him miss a really important bit in the story.
I thought the best thing is that a great chunk of the action is set in Constantine's underground cistern, a huge water tank filled with columns. James Bond's ally, the head of the Turkish secret police, has set up a submarine periscope which he pokes, apparently unnoticed, right up into the Russian Embassy's sitting room.
'Improbable, if you ask me,' I informed my reluctant audience. 'Yes, yes,' they groaned as one. '. . . because, in reality, there's a rather nice garden above it.' But perhaps not as improbable as the sonorous classical music and the restaurant perched on a platform in the middle of the subterranean pond that tempts the visitor today.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Cruise packed with Turkish delight
Embarking on your first sailing trip to an uncharted land with a boat full of strangers is like throwing yourself in at the deep end.
Those were the fears I had at the start of my cruising holiday in Turkey.
But the crew's warm welcome put me at my ease as soon as I boarded the luxurious, modern gulet (wooden yacht) with my fellow passengers in Bodrum, in the country's south west region.
The first thing I had to do was to get to know the other holidaymakers cruising around Bodrum with me.
We sat down to our first supper, authentic Turkish cuisine, freshly-prepared by the cook on board. This was washed down with copious amounts of alcohol from the well-stocked bar.
Socialising with my companions, who came from all walks of life, was easy in these lush, congenial surroundings.
As we were on a boat and not staying in a hotel, it was easy to visit many of the legendary beautiful bays near Bodrum.
When we awoke on our first morning we visited tiny and tranquil Castel.
It was easy to enjoy its simple beauty — the part pebble and part sand beach and wild, overgrown woodland — as there wasn't a single tourist or local in sight.
From Castel it was a short trip to Gumusluk, a sleepy seaside town with a cluster of shops. We bought gorgeous handmade gold and silver jewellery. When night fell we got tipsy on Raki, a heady local aniseed spirit in one of the beach hut-style rooftop bars.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Two weeks isn't long enough
One of the best holidays the family has had. People were really friendly, restaurants and bars were great.
Travelling on the Dolmas wasn't too much of a problem and there was always something for us to do. Two weeks wasn't enough to do everything.
Travel Guide: Turkey
It's out of this world
No matter how you arrive, it won't be long before the locals mention the first Star Wars film and the scenes in which this region of Turkey allegedly featured heavily.
In fact, the movie was filmed in Tunisia, but the spectacular force of the scenery should not be underestimated, whether it made it on to celluloid or not.
Ten million years ago, three volcanoes erupted, leaving piles of volcanic stone and ash called tufa. Much of the tufa eroded to produce an eclectic landscape of ravines, spires, hills and towers with boulders perched perilously on top - a phenomenon locals call 'fairy chimneys'.
The area has a long Christian history, and after fleeing the Roman Empire in the first century, these Christians, many of whom became Byzantine monks, found they were able to carve out houses, churches, tunnels and even subterranean cities from the soft rock.
Today there are more than 1,000 rock-cut churches in Cappadocia and some of the best and most accessible can be found at the Open Air Museum at Goreme, an hour south-west of the airport Kayseri.
Most of the chapels date from the tenth to the 13th centuries, and their restored frescoes are amazing. There's a small entry fee, but try to get there early.
Six miles down the road is Zelve, a monastic complex inhabited until the 1950s. I don't think the frescoes in the Balikli (Fish) and Uzumlu (Grape) churches are as impressive, but Zelve is worth a visit and is less crowded.
Cappadocia has a mass of subterranean labyrinths to explore. The two largest are Kaymakli and Derinkuyu. The first few levels may have been excavated as early as 1200BC, but they were later expanded into troglodytic complexes by Christians escaping Arab invasions in the seventh and eighth centuries.
We visited Mazikoy, an elaborate subterranean system with air and waste shafts, 20 miles south of Goreme. It was not until I ventured inside that I realised the sheer magnitude of what lay beyond the simple cave entrance.
This community was built within the walls of a cliff and a tricky Spiderman-style manoeuvre is required to climb footholds carved into the walls between levels.
Half an hour before the sun sets, bus loads of people arrive at the plateau overlooking the Red Valley. The sight of the sun setting over the labyrinth of rock cones is a truly Cappadocian vista.
After all my underground exploration I felt I deserved to sample some of the region's wines. At the Turasan Winery outside of Urgup tasting is free and with six whites and five reds on offer from £3 to £10, I chose a dry, biting red, Turasan Kalecik Karasi.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Cachet Travel (020 8847 3848, www.cachet-travel.co.uk), Tapestry Holidays (020 8235 7777, www.tapestryholidays.com) and On The Go Tours (020 7371 1113, www.onthegotours.com) offer three to five-day deals. Car can easily be rented at Kayseri Airport (0090 212 5117410, www.carrentalturkey.net).
WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Gomeda, four-star hotel outside Urgup (0090 384 353 50 50). Cappadocia Palace, B&B hotel with 18 rooms, four of which are cave rooms. (Book on 0090 384 341 61 25).
Turkish delight
Visit once and you're hooked
I have been to Calis six times in the past year and it has the nicest people who would do nothing but help.
Calis is a small beach town which is only 10 minutes bus ride away from Fethiye the main town. I have made many friends over there and it's true what they say - visit Turkey once and you are hooked.
I would recommend to try Calis once. There is plenty to do for the young and old - I could
sit here and write an essay about Calis and how wonderful it is but try it yourself and you will love it
Travel Guide: Turkey
A quiet resort with a good beach
We visited Turkey for the first time in April 2002. We stayed at a five star hotel in Icmeler and we were not disappointed.
We could see Marmaris across the bay which could be reached by a short dolmus ride or water taxi ride. So we had the best of both worlds - being by a bustling resort but not actually staying in it.
Icmeler was quieter but still had a good market, loads of bars and restaurants and a nice beach.
We saw so much in the time we were there but hardly scratched the surface of this fascinating country.
The holiday was wonderful and so were the people.
We can't wait to visit again.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Massages in the restaurants
If there is one place you should stay in Turkey it's Bodrum with it's lively atmosphere, wonderful views across the harbour and fantastic people.
I don't think we sat down anywhere in a restaurant without getting a free massage as well (great!).
There's plenty to do from boat trips to Greece (Kos) sailing on gullets around the coast and watersports.
There's a great castle and fantastic shops and restaurants selling English breakfasts (sort of) and if you enjoy the night life, as well as having many great nightclubs and bars it has the biggest outdoor disco in Europe.
Great for watching the sun come up in the morning! I just loved it
Travel Guide: Turkey
Many things to do and see
This happens to be one of the top resorts for tourists and, after reading the other review, I was disappointed to see that they did not enjoy their holiday.
The beaches here are lovely and renowned in Turkey as some of the best, the nightlife is great and although there is some hassle from each restaurant it has not affected our holidays there and that is why we have booked for the fourth year in a row.
So many things to do and see both locally and further afield.
Travel Guide: Turkey
It's the dream place for me
I feel very sorry for the lady who disliked Altinkum.
I've been there four times in the past 18 months and have enjoyed every moment of my holidays.
The people are very friendly and, of course, they want you to go to their restaurant, but skulking on the other side of the road instead of smiling and saying 'no thanks' is not very polite.
Every place has its downside but my friends and I love Altinkum - both the people and the place and we wouldn't dream of going anywhere else.
If you want Blackpool with sun go Majorca. We prefer the lovely beach and friendliness of Altinkum.
During our holidays there we've met some wonderful people and we are proud to call them our friends. We've visited their homes inland and met their families who have never spoken to English people before and they were very welcoming too.
When visiting a place you should find out about it first then you know what to expect.
Mozzies and dirt tracks aren't ideal but everything else makes up for them.
Don't let one person's opinion put you off going there - it's great!
Travel Guide: Turkey
Far from a dream holiday
Having had previous holidays there, friends suggested trying Turkey, due to its friendly atmosphere.
I was horrified to find it was too friendly for those who wore a Newcastle shirt. The Turkish wore one to attract you! My family was constantly badgered when eating out. Each restaurant was offering a "better deal" and it became so unbearable that we decided to stay back in our complex or alternatively walk slyly along the beach front to avoid these "very friendly people".
There's nothing for the children, and they were bored with only the pool to play in - the alternative was a showground, which looked great by night, but dangerous by day.
The beach was too far away, you also found that it was overcrowded. Finding it wasn't too bad, but walking along a dusty old track was. There were Turks lying on mattresses near the roadside. And Turkish children hunted for food in skips outside apartments.
We found clothes bought from Turkey were soon falling apart at the seams. Perfume looked good in boxes but dreams were soon shattered when trying them out.
Altinkum was swarming with mosquitoes and no insect repellent or candle held them at bay. In my opinion stay clear of Altinkum.
Travel Guide: Turkey
Going underground in Turkey's lost city
You could be forgiven for arriving in Cappadocia and thinking you had stepped on to another planet.
Located 200km southeast of Ankara, the capital of Turkey, this World Heritage Site was once an extremely active volcanic area. The erosion of the land over millions of years has left behind unique rock formations and hundreds of conical structures standing up to 40 metres high - known as 'fairy chimneys'.
All the tour guides are quick to remind you that scenes from the original Star Wars movie were filmed here. If you take a quick look around you can appreciate why. You really have to see it for yourself.
Back in the 7th century, the Christians of Cappadocia built underground cities to escape from Roman invasions, often for months at a time. The cities were so well hidden that the first one wasn't discovered until the 1960s. Thirty-five more have since been found. A trip to one should be one of your top priorities while in the region.
Wherever you stay there will be an abundance of agencies offering tours of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli. These are the two largest underground cities and, as such, do get very busy. If you can, avoid visiting at the weekend.
The underground city of Derinkuyu was once 18 storeys deep and home to 20,000 people. The top seven storeys have been excavated and are now open to the public. Look up the air vent from the seventh floor – this is no place for the claustrophobic.
If you have your own transport you can drive to either of the underground cities in under an hour, but to get the most out of the day you'll need to book a tour guide (£6-£8) or hunt down a group to tag along with.
The Ihlara Valley is a 16km canyon that is popular with tourists for its greenery and wildlife - a real contrast with the aridity throughout most of Cappadocia. Spending a few hours walking the gorge is a fabulous way to spend a morning.
There is much to see along the valley. Numerous churches carved from the rocks can be visited and a number of astute locals have opened up restaurants, so don't worry about taking too many supplies with you. Should you walk far enough you can take a relaxing dip in the 40C Ziga hot springs.
For the town's proximity to Cappadocia's many attractions and its laid-back lifestyle, Goreme is an ideal base. With a population of 2,000, it was once a haven for backpackers but now has accommodation to suit every kind of tourist.
Travel Guide: Turkey
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| | | | Good starter bath
Women, on the other hand, are expected to be naked (though a tourist hamam will allow swimsuits - the steambath equivalent of eating a meal with a paper bag on your head).
Women are also expected to be scrubbed to within an inch of their lives.
A good starter bath in Istanbul is Cemberlitas, near the Grand Bazaar, which separates men and women and provides a fairly authentic experience, but still welcomes tourists blundering around in the steam.
How the female Cemberlitas attendants have been overlooked for a 007 movie, I don't know. They are muscular and confident, with industrial-sized swimsuits rolled down to the waist.
The terrified squeaks of tourists being shooed on to the massage tables are followed by awed silence as they realise they are in the hands of true professionals. I hate to think what the men are like.
Since Marmaris, I have tried Austrian, Korean, Iranian and Japanese public baths. I love the sense of anonymity, and the extraordinary clarity of thought that comes in the swirls of steam.
But without doubt, the Turkish bath is the most sensuous, the one most given over to pleasure. Some might say that it was this weakness that polished off the Ottoman Empire.
And if you think about it, all the empires which got into steam baths in a big way came to a sticky end. Roman. Byzantine. Hapsburg. Japanese. Er, ours.
That thought occurred to me while sitting in the steam room at my local gym, and I think it needs developing. Perhaps it's time to book another trip to Istanbul.
Nothing but a G-string
I went on one back in the early Nineties; my principal memory is of the rather bad-tempered captain who sashayed around all day long in nothing but a G-string. Not madly attractive.
But even that was better than the boat on which friends of mine booked cabins through a popular London travel agent.
They found themselves sharing a dirty, overcrowded gulet with a gang of British lager louts who wanted only to throw their empty beer cans into the sea by day and tie up near to the noisiest discos in the hottest ports by night. An invitation to suicide.
Very unlike the trip I have just made. In fact, apart from the excellent Turkish crew and delicious food, this was an all-American escapade.
We were on a charter boat called Sea Fox which, at 30 metres long by eight in the beam, is pretty large.
She was built in 1998 in Antalya, but by a Bodrum designer. That's very important, stressed her new owner, Betsy Haskell, because the kings of Turkish boat builders are all from Bodrum.
Betsy is rather exotic - the sort of person who should be jumping straight out of the pages of a novel. She is a southern American blonde, a Raymond Chandler type, who ran her own hotel in Tblisi, the capital of Georgia, for eight years.
It was known as 'Betsy's' and was where all travelling Americans hung out. For years it was safe from the Georgian mafia but then crime got worse and Betsy decided to move on.
She had made a couple of 'blue voyages' in southern Turkey and in 2000 met a gulet captain called Mehmet Ali Satilmaz, known as Kaptan Ali. They liked each other and decided to go into the boating business together.
After six months searching - she for a beautiful small boat, he for a monster - they found Sea Fox, a compromise but still a pretty damn big boat, costing much more than she expected.
Swim in the clear water
It was clearly a morning for stretching out on the bright blue sun mattresses on the sun deck above.
Most days we anchored in a small bay, climbing down a ladder attached to the boat's side to swim in the clear water.
Meals were eaten at a long refectory table running sideways across deck at the back, under a bright blue awning pulled back later for sunning.
In the evenings, we would sometimes sit in the central glazed cabin - half-seating area, half-galley kitchen and wheelhouse. One morning we went to a market where, apart from fruit and vegetables, the best buy was spices of all sorts and, surprisingly, shorts and cotton trousers.
We lunched afterwards at a little restaurant nearby, which was festooned with morning glory and bougainvillea.
We ate delicious Turkish hors d'oeuvres of stewed aubergines, courgettes cooked in pureed tomato, followed by a beef stew served on cracked wheat.
Another day we went on an expedition to an archeological site, driving up olive-planted hills where small black goats leaped out of our path.
Down in the fertile valleys, women in white headscarves tended wheat, tobacco and cotton, their donkeys tethered under trees. In the villages, old men in shirtsleeves sat on chairs in circles in the shade.
In Iasso, a small narrow bay like a finger, with fishing boats moored around it and eucalyptus and oleanders flanking the shore, the ruins of a major temple of Zeus lie in a secluded grove, swallows swooping among tall columns and tumbled masonry.
Feeling of unutterable rest
As a general rule, we felt restaurant etiquette was lacking everywhere we went. Rob developed a kung-fu-like awareness around the waiters, who would swoop down and take your plate before you had finished.
One day we hired a motorboat and went snorkelling off the coast and anchored the boat in the middle of nowhere.
We had a cold-box full of ice cream, soft drinks and water and we ate, drank, swam and sunned ourselves like lazy seals on the deck.
In our hired Jeep we didn't find driving too bad, despite warnings to the contrary.
Coastal routes teetering around windy cliffs I can take or leave, but open-top Jeeps definitely are fun and a must if you get stir-crazy lying by the pool all day.
Our particular vehicle had no visible tread on the tyres, though, so be careful when you're hiring.
There were two highlights of our trip, both places within easy driving distance from Kalkan.
The first is Saklikent, which is a gorge full of the purest aquamarine-coloured water I have ever seen.
It runs down from the mountains and out into the surrounding countryside.
It was here, seated at a low Turkish table, surrounded by cushions and the effortless sound of rushing water, that my entire being seemed to surrender to a feeling of unutterable rest.
Getting away from the tourist trail
BODRUM & GUMBET
On a double horseshoe bay under a crusaders' castle, it is the best looking resort, thanks to building restrictions, leaving the white, sugar-cubed centre untainted by high-rise hotels. During the quiet months, it is a bohemian, laid-back place, popular with Turkish holidaymakers. Come summer, however, the town is bursting at the seams - and its nightlife is famous. During the day, the Castle of St Peter provides the big tourist draw. Ten years ago Gumbet, a ten-minute trip away, was just two hotels and a strip of sand; now the beach can hardly cope with the numbers billeted in town. But it is good for watersports and has lots of bars and nightclubs.
ADVANTAGES: Good-looking town with a fine harbour.
DISADVANTAGES: Busy and noisy in the height of summer.
BODRUM PENINSULA
Regular visitors to Turkey often want to get away from the crowded resorts to somewhere more authentic, such as the sleepy bay at Gundogan; Turkbuku, where you sunbathe on platforms; Gumusluk, famous for its seafood; Bitez, with its fine windsurfing; or Turgetreis, with its laid-back souk.
ADVANTAGES: Quieter, more relaxed.Great for watersports.
DISADVANTAGES: A road trip every time you want to go to Bodrum.
MARMARIS
Although the harbour and the little warren of streets in the old town are quite attractive, too much of Marmaris has been sacrificed to tourism. There is a narrow strip of beach, in places little more than 10ft wide, but most holidaymakers take day trips by boat to more secluded coves. Marmaris is more family-oriented than Bodrum, with fewer nightclubs, and building controls that have ensured a more sympathetic development. It has a better beach and the water sports facilities are good, although it can get crowded.
ADVANTAGES: Good base for boat trips. Plenty of shops.
DISADVANTAGES: Too many tourists.
BOZBURUN PENINSULA
A way to escape the crowds. The best-known bolt-hole is probably Turunc Bayx. The beaches and coastline are clean and safe and the main area has kept its village character. Kumlubuku attracts daytrippers from Marmaris to its seafront restaurants, but once they have gone it returns to its happy, soporific state. Orhaniye is real 'get away from it all' spot with great trekking in the hills and fine coastal walks.
ADVANTAGES: Peace and quiet
DISADVANTAGES: You need to travel to Marmaris for holiday shopping.
Pass the chicken curry and pancakes
We had Yeoliaolalan next in our sights. It was just 12 miles from Gumusluk. But the journey time sailed by as we ate, drank and made merry on the boat.
Yeoliaolalan gave us a chance to see locals living a traditional lifestyle.
We were invited into the home of a villager and with our captain translating we learnt that they baked their bread, grew fruit and vegetables and reared cows and chickens.
The journey from Gumusluk to the fascinating Muslim village, Asgimazi was 17 miles.
We visited its pretty white-washed stone mosque and watched the skilful art of traditional carpet-making. Then it was off to a party at a village home. Dining Muslim-style sitting on cushions, we feasted on spinach pancakes and chicken curry and watched folk dancing.
We ended our cruise by returning to Bodrum for a taste of ancient history.
Our tour guide, an archaeologist, talked informatively about the ancient Greeks as she took us around the amphitheatre and the temple of Zeus.
After this exhausting trip we visited a Turkish bath. We lay in a communal colonnaded steam room and let a vigorous masseuse release the kinks from our muscles with an oil massage.
We toured Bodrum on our very own floating hotel.
It was two holidays in one. We visited remote Turkish locations we would never have found by ourselves and enjoyed the pleasures of sailing — sunbathing on deck, swimming and eating, drinking and generally chilling out.
My seven-day all-inclusive trip cost around £1,000. For more information visit tussockcruising.com
Daytrips worth waking up for
As the top holiday resort in Turkey, Marmaris is not short of things to do or see. Virtually flattened by an earthquake in 1957, it has been rebuilt and developed to such an extent that there is a non-stop buzz about it.
With the temperatures around 38 to 40c, we were glad of the air-conditioning in the impressive, five-star Grand Azur Hotel. Set in well-maintained gardens, it was an oasis of peace in the madness that is Marmaris. There, bargains are available at every turn, day trips are always cheaper than anyone else has to offer and fake designer clothes and watches are the staple purchase. Restaurants of every kind abound, fancy yachts and excursion boats line the harbour and the promenade is abuzz, not just with tourists but with locals as they take the cooler evening air, sauntering back and forth.
Haggling over prices is expected, so if you don't enjoy taking on the natives at their own game, stay clear of the bazaar. Its maze-like collection of stalls is a tremendous experience, with temptations galore in the way of leather jackets, bags, shoes and carpets. Show an interest and, before you know it, you'll be supping apple tea and agreeing a price that you wonder if you could have reduced further. With around half-a-million Turkish lire to the pound, getting to grips with money can be a problem.
Mind you, with 'full English breakfasts', a 1.7-litre jug of beer and restaurants called The Queen Vic and The Greasy Spoon, there are times when you wonder if you are in Turkey. So a Turkish bath was a chance to find out how the natives get rid of the stress of living in modern-day Marmaris. Ten minutes in the 45c heat of the sauna was enough for me before I entered the Turkish bath. There, lying flat on a marble square, I was soaped up for a gentle massage. A second, more rigorous, massage - with luxurious oils - followed before I emerged invigorated.
Another favourite with visitors is a mud bath, a popular part of the day trip to Turtle Beach. At the Aqua Mia Mud Baths, shrieks of laughter accompany the slapping on of the mud and the inevitable picture-taking.
There's no shortage of trips on offer if the heat gets too much for you, but it was the Grand Azur Hotel's daylong boat trip that dragged the girls away from their strenuous activities of waking up and sunbathing. Cruising round bays, dropping anchor and dipping into the sea for a swim, eating and drinking as much as you want - those middle-of-the-night alarm calls seemed light years away.
Across the Golden Horn
Of course, Istanbul now lacks some of the gritty mystery of the Cold War years. The seething nest of espionage has largely been replaced by a seething nest of matronly American tourists in comfortable shoes, but the city of the world's desire still practises its heady allure.
When I last went there, it was when I was 18 and in what is now called a gap year. I was working on the SS Uganda, part of P&O's old school cruises fleet, and we stayed everywhere for 16 hours: Kos, Rhodes, Tunisia, a brothel in Lisbon that we thought was a cafe. Nowhere hit like Istanbul.
I stood on the bridge across the Golden Horn, filling my own gaps with sensations. The squat, scary mystery of the New Mosque loomed behind me. The rush hour poured great masses of humanity through the city. 'This must be like Russia was,' I thought, ungrammatically. And it is; like a parallel universe. The alienating experience the traveller craves and the tourist misses.
In Istanbul everything is familiar but skewed. At 18, I avoided the sights completely. I never got further than the Grand Bazaar, and maybe not even there. I crossed the quays where Heath Robinson ferry boats nudge for places like piglets in a sow's litter, and climbed up into the grey labyrinth of the city, thronging, as medieval streets must have thronged, with a thousand-thousand market stalls.
Suddenly there is nothing but trousers - above, below, alongside you: jeans, kecks, drawers, pantaloons, in shops, like tunnels, threading into the buildings. Then, just as suddenly, a street of dishcloths or plastic toys or a million leather coats.
In the grand bazaar itself you can get tourists' rugs and new lamps for old, or old lamps posing as new, in fact. But I recommend that you skirt it and dive down the lanes that link it to the rest of this fascinating city. This time, my wife and I went as the markets were closing on a wet Sunday afternoon.
Stallholders wielded long poles to push up tarpaulins high above them, and we danced around unexpected waterfalls crashing into the streets. A gentle mist of steam rose from the baked pavement.
Around us were precarious electric signs and advertising hoardings, hung on the crumbling fabric of palaces a block long and seven storeys high, with corbel windows and huge, ancient wooden doors at street level.
And unlike so much of, say, North Africa, this is a city that goes about its own business. You will get hassled in the main tourist spots but elsewhere you can, and should, wander and ponder.
It had really been my intention to overcome the dismal failures of youth and get to the main sights this time.
Pass the chicken curry and pancakes
We had Yeoliaolalan next in our sights. It was just 12 miles from Gumusluk. But the journey time sailed by as we ate, drank and made merry on the boat.
Yeoliaolalan gave us a chance to see locals living a traditional lifestyle.
We were invited into the home of a villager and with our captain translating we learnt that they baked their bread, grew fruit and vegetables and reared cows and chickens.
The journey from Gumusluk to the fascinating Muslim village, Asgimazi was 17 miles.
We visited its pretty white-washed stone mosque and watched the skilful art of traditional carpet-making. Then it was off to a party at a village home. Dining Muslim-style sitting on cushions, we feasted on spinach pancakes and chicken curry and watched folk dancing.
We ended our cruise by returning to Bodrum for a taste of ancient history.
Our tour guide, an archaeologist, talked informatively about the ancient Greeks as she took us around the amphitheatre and the temple of Zeus.
After this exhausting trip we visited a Turkish bath. We lay in a communal colonnaded steam room and let a vigorous masseuse release the kinks from our muscles with an oil massage.
We toured Bodrum on our very own floating hotel.
It was two holidays in one. We visited remote Turkish locations we would never have found by ourselves and enjoyed the pleasures of sailing — sunbathing on deck, swimming and eating, drinking and generally chilling out.
My seven-day all-inclusive trip cost around £1,000. For more information visit tussockcruising.com
Up and away in a hot air balloon
To learn more about Cappadocia's history and to view dwellings from as far back as the 7th century, visit the town's Open-Air Museum, a pleasant 1km walk away. The museum opens at 8am - arrive early to beat the tour groups.
Many of Goreme's restaurants boast superb Turkish food and glorious views of the town's unique rock formations. The Orient Hotel offers a delicious Turkish meze and Capaddocian local wine at less than half the price you'd expect to pay down on the Mediterranean coast.
Goreme is also a great place to shop for carpets, as well as ceramics. The rug shop owners will gladly serve you complimentary cay (Turkish tea) as they show you around. If you buy a rug, for an extra fee you can arrange delivery to a later destination or even back home if you, understandably, don't want to carry it over your shoulder for the rest of your trip.
A hot-air balloon flight in Cappadocia at sunrise is quite simply an unforgettable experience. At up to £150pp for a 90-minute flight it is costly but, especially if you've never flown in a hot-air balloon before, this is the place to do it.
Kapadokya Balloons offer a cheaper, no-frills flight at £90pp, lasting for 45 minutes - ample time to savour the surroundings from 500ft. You'll have to make do with a cup of tea and a biscuit rather than the customary glass of champagne on landing, but that's no big deal at 6am.
Most visitors will stay in Cappadocia for three to five days before moving on. It is not a place where you'll find two-week package tours. The nightlife is quiet and you couldn't really be any further from the beach - Marmaris or Bodrum this certainly is not.
But if you want to experience some real Turkish culture and hospitality, head central to this beautifully desolate region. Once you step back into the real world, you'll be glad you made the effort.
You can fly from Istanbul to Kayseri in eastern Cappadocia in about 1½ hours, but Turkey's comfortable, efficient coach service runs from across the country direct to Goreme and neighbouring town Urgup.
September to October is the best time to visit, with bearable heat and little chance of rain. June to August is the hottest time of the year (averaging just under 30C), but the temperature does cool once the sun goes down.
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| | | | Its own Turkish bath
They ripped out the insides, reducing the number of cabins (thank goodness, because there is nothing worse than an overcrowded boat in the heat) to six doubles, each with its own bathroom.
When you first get on board it's worth showing a little rat-like cunning. 'Oh just put me at the stern near the engines - that's fine for me.'
Or you could just elbow your way to the stern. For the stern is where you'll find the master stateroom. It's as wide as the boat and has two double beds, and windows that open over the wake of the ship - quite a playroom.
Midship there is a large interior saloon, with television, and above the stern there is a poop you could think of playing tennis on if it did not also have two dining tables at which we had most of our meals.
Sea Fox even has her own Turkish bath under the fore mast. We used this just once - it is fun but I have to confess I am not sure it is the best use of space on board. I would have preferred the area to have been divided between the cabins.
We flew to Dalaman, which has become a massive tourist airport serving the south west of Turkey. We had a wonderful drive westwards through lush pine trees and hills and spent the first day in Dalyan, a very pretty river village which has staggering Lycian tombs carved in the hillside. (One legend has Midas, king of the Phrygians in the 8th Century BC, in one of the tombs.)
In Dalyan we had lunch in the garden of a cafe on the river bank and watched the Turkey-Senegal match.
The Turkish victory gave me almost as much pleasure as it did all those young villagers who immediately careered around the streets in pickup trucks, shouting for joy and waving huge Turkish flags.
My wife was happy too. She found a perfect shop in which a young English woman and her Turkish boyfriend sold rather good clothes made in Nepal - he apparently journeyed there every few months.
Throughout the trip we were constantly impressed with how incredibly nice and even tempered the Turks all were.
After-dinner games
Another day brought an expedition to Heraklia, the source of the legend of Endymion and Selene - the story of the shepherd boy with whom the moon goddess fell in love - to see the 5th-century BC temple of Artemis set in groves of olives.
One evening we anchored in the secluded bay of Colentme. Driving up past pale, blonde, feathery wild oats and low stone walls that fenced in rocky fields studded with pale blue beehives or olive groves, we came to a hilltop village of whitewashed houses where mules picked their way down steep, stony paths.
Here, we ate in a house belonging to the family of one of our crew, sitting cross-legged on a flower-strewn verandah.
There was a full moon glinting through a tracery of leaves as stewed aubergines, spinach and ricotta pancakes, chicken salad and chips were brought out by the children of the house.
After dinner there was dancing to a violin, mandolin and a toadstool-like drum, held between the knees, played by three of the village men.
Next day we sailed to another little bay - deserted except for one other boat - tying up to one of the pines so that we could spend an hour swimming before lunch.
Stuffed peppers and aubergines with a yoghurt and garlic sauce were served as we glided gently away under sail.
As the days passed, board games after dinner became increasingly popular. A regular Scrabble school quickly formed; others played Articulate and the steady-handed went in for Jenga, a game which is played with lengths of wood that gradually build up into a tower.
My favourite was Rummy-kub, known in Turkey as Okey, played with numbered counters to build up sequences and three or four of a kind that link together in a complicated pattern until, eventually, someone is able to win by discarding all their counters.
Mirage of dark horsemen
The second place is Patara beach, about seven miles from Kalkan and so a little nearer than Saklikent.
You have to pay a toll of about £2 per person to get in, but once inside there is a ruin of an ampitheatre and a beach which will burn an imprint on your memory for ever.
Up a windy wooden track and past the camel on the left lies a beach which feels three times wider than any beach you've ever been to.
It is shored on one side by rolling dunes and by an ocean on the other side which, if you crossed, would get you to Alexandria.
It feels Arabic. It's 11 miles long and after a while becomes a mirage of dark horsemen in flowing robes.
The heat is unforgiving and the tranquillity almost abstract, like a frozen moment in time.
Get there early if you want a big shady umbrella, though.
As I had forgotten my beach shoes, in order to walk on the hot sand I would run, fling down my towel, jump on it and then repeat the action.
This is a seriously hot place so plenty of water, hats, lotion, towels and dips in the sea are the order of the day.
On the whole we were impressed with Turkey and what it had to offer. We are outdoor blokes and there was plenty to keep us active.
We ended up not diving which, when we started out, was the focus of our holiday.
But that's what holidays should be, schedule-less, plan-less, organic things which rest you deeply, beyond just loads of sleep and good food.
By the time we came home, my nails - often bitten to the cuticles through stress - were longer than they had been for years.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
Anatolian Sky Holidays (www.anatolian-sky.co.uk tel: 0121 325 5500) offers a two-centre break spending one week at the Hera Hotel in Kas and one week in the Club Xanthos Apartments in Kalkan with flights from London Gatwick, transfers and half-board accommodation.
TURKEY - WITH ALL THE TRIMMINGS
GETTING AROUND:
If you are confident behind the wheel, driving along the Turkish coast is a simple enough business, but you should always book a vehicle before you go, as car hire can be fiendishly expensive. Consider paying a bit extra for air conditioning - it's worth it at the height of summer. The most popular way to travel short distances is to take a dolmus, a shared taxi, which can be waved down. Short trips cost little more than 30p. Regular taxi prices often increase after midnight.
SHOPPING:
Haggling is the name of the game in the markets. Be patient - and be prepared to sit down with a glass of apple tea during the long, drawn-out process. But don't even begin to bargain for a carpet or leather jacket unless you intend to buy. Holiday company reps know the reputable dealers and often organise tours to cheaper factory outlets. Avoid shopping in Kusadasi when there is a big cruise ship in port - the prices go up accordingly.
RESTAURANTS:
Beware - fish and seafood in Turkish restaurants is usually paid for by weight, and this can lead to a surprisingly hefty bill. It is not unusual to hear tales of tourists paying as much as £10 for five prawns. If you are feeding a family, consider ordering a selection of mezes - traditional starters and the ubiquitous kebabs rather than expensive main courses.
Palace of the Sultans
We did the Blue Mosque and were horrified, disgusted even. First, at the implacable discourtesy of the majority of visitors who ignored the polite notices and photographed, chattered and videoed. And secondly, by the overpowering smell of feet.
Muslims wash before entering a mosque. Tourists simply remove their shoes and pad about, yelling at each other.
We did Sophia, an edifice hewn out of history. A church built in the dark ages that still rivals St Peter's and beats it hollow for mystery. I have never been in such a holy place. It emanates from the stone.
Mosaics from the Byzantine era have been left undisturbed, despite years of Islamic rule, and the Virgin Mary still glows out of her golden halo, testimony to the tolerance of the Ottomans.
In the time of Suleiman the Magnificent, the Greek church was encouraged to officiate its rites and Turks went to watch. The Hungarian ambassador claimed that many secretly baptised their children, just in case.
This Turkish pragmatism is reflected in Topkapi, the incomparable palace of the Sultans, built with the confidence of rulers who were, at the time of Elizabeth I, the supreme emperors of the world.
Later the same week, I happened to be in France, standing in the grandiose pomposity of Versailles' mammoth halls of mirrors, and compared it with the private kiosks and the intimate water gardens and sanctums of the sultans' palace. One designed for show and public trumpery, the other for discreet and private pleasure. If you should happen to become ruler of several million people, which you would rather have?
Conveniently, Istanbul's major tourist attractions are gathered in an enclave on the European side of the Golden Horn harbour. Doubly conveniently, so are the tourists that visit them.
Trebly conveniently, so rich, so profligate, so fruitful were the excesses of Ottoman invention and so limited the imagination of the typical visitor from Iowa that it is possible, with minimum effort, to get off the tourist trail to discover exquisite and unvisited treasures.
Off in the stables of the palace, there was an exhibition of the sultans' tents: just a few of their marquees taken out of storage and put on display. We braved a thunderstorm, running over drains gurgling with flood water, to take a look.
What a gorgeous treat. The court, lavish enough at home, spent half the year campaigning, and here were its temporary palaces, saffron-yellow-striped and pinnacled, exquisitely embroidered and ours, alone, for half an hour.
Even better were the Alexandrian sarcophagi in the sparsely attended Museum of Antiquities. Now that museums are applauded for the length of their queues, it is humbling to be left almost alone in the presence of stuff like this.
The tombs are impossible. Relief figures, horses, chariots, warriors burst from the sides of the catafalques. The edges are ridged with patterns as formal and repetitive as a machine.
The contrast between the two, and the knowledge that they were both dug out of rock, is gobsmacking. A solitary Dutchman walked in, looked unimpressed and left.
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| | | | Remained quite unspoiled
That evening we boarded Sea Fox in Ekincik Bay, a picturesque inlet between Gocek and Marmaris.
The bays and villages which we were to visit over the next few days were graced by the fact that the coastal road system here is still pretty primitive. Many places have therefore remained quite unspoiled.
We set off at once and anchored for the night off deserted rocks covered in gorse and heather, where we swam and then had the first of many excellent meals on board.
The chef was called Murat Sarikavak, a delightful man. But he was new and Betsy, who came for the voyage, was a bit nervous about his food.
She need not have been, because the food was one of the most enjoyable aspects of the trip.
Murat's best dishes included octopus in a creamy sauce, grilled calamaris, both cheese and meat-filled burek, risotto with pine nuts, stuffed broiled eggplant, eggplant in garlic yogurt, and other delicious yogurt dishes, lamb kebabs and fresh fish. There were salads galore.
It was an immense pleasure to sit at the big table on the poop three times a day (breakfasts were also good - eggs, salads, yogurts, coffee) partaking of all this. The local wine was good too.
On the first day we stopped outside Marmaris to be boarded by the Turkish navy, checking that we had enough life jackets and no illegal immigrants.
Our first delightful landfall was Bozburun, a small village where they still build wooden ships on the beach with the practice of ancient eyes.
We landed in late afternoon, when the village was asleep in the sun. We stopped in a little cafe, climbed the stairs and had exquisite sage tea, supposed to be very good for flu.
Felt like a king
So what about the downside to such a holiday? If there is a good breeze, anyone susceptible to seasickness could feel queasy (the stablest place, incidentally, is at the back of the boat above the motor).
Be careful, also, not to take too much with you. In cabins measuring a mere two metres square, storage space is at a premium.
But then, with most days spent in a swimsuit, all you need in addition is a hat, one pair each of shorts and trousers, some T-shirts, underwear, a cardigan for occasional cooler evenings and a long-sleeved shirt to protect you from the fierce sun during expeditions.
Itineraries are flexible depending on wind and passengers' preferences; in all, there are 11 different routes over a sailing area of 310 nautical miles.
On the last day, instead of Captain Umit's briefing, we looked at the visitors' book, with its ecstatic letters from children.
One heartfelt comment struck home. 'I felt like a king this week - never heard "no or "not possible".' How different, alas, from the real world.
Travel facts Tussock Cruising is 020 8510 9292 or visit the website at http://www.tussockcruising.com
Turkey's sensuous delights
There is actually a magazine - Cornucopia - dedicated to the sensuous delights of Turkey. It regularly features articles on Ottomania: the fabulous, rich clothes, the delicate food and - dread subject - the beautiful carpets.
I have an addiction. It sucks up money more quickly than any dealer in King's Cross. It gives you a quick thrill but leaves you depressed for days. I just cannot get enough carpet haggling.
Istanbul used to be useless. Ten years ago it was easier to score in London. But since the collapse of the Soviet Union and the economies of central Asia, Istanbul has again become the entrepot for all things knotted, woven and embroidered.
Yeah, yeah, I know. Well, I pity you! When I see a heap of carefully folded rugs, my heart starts pounding. My temples throb. I ache to hear the cliched spiel and squat amongst the musty smell for the rest of the afternoon. Yes, it's that bad.
I promised to limit myself. I once actually spent an entire night in a shop near Bodrum, and staggered into the dawn with a nasty blue and red Kilim and a stomach full of apple tea. The very notion of so many carpet shops in Istanbul began to make me feel faint.
'Just a quick look,' I promised. 'We won't actually sit down.' But, you see, once you're in, the system just works against you.
The first place we went to was dominated by a top salesman. He was enormously tall and dressed for a supporting part in a fairy tale, with a superb sideways sprouting beard and a funny hat, and he had this languid way of getting through his stacks that rather gave me the impression that he wasn't quite showing me the real goodies. So we went on. And on. Then we had supper . . . and came back.
And we went on. Then we went down a side street to a sort of superstore, where what we had already seen was multiplied by a hundred thousand. In the end I sat absently fingering an Uzbekistan flat weave. 'Right. Your best price?' He named a figure. I sighed and cautiously named another, somewhat lower, figure.
All the guides, the holiday programmes, the hotel brochures and the air stewardesses; all the books, pamphlets and 'rough', 'off-beat', and 'deserted planet' guides tell you to bargain. Knock 'em down. They love it.
Have these people, I wonder, ever gazed on the expression of complete contempt mingled with pity and weary exasperation that the mighty bearded one now assumed? Have they ever wasted hours in the company of a serious grown-up, heaving carpets, suzanis and saddle cloths out of enormous heaps and then offered to bargain? I think not. Much better just to get up and leave. Which I did.
This is kismet. He nodded mournfully and bade me farewell. 'Inshallah.'
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| | | | Sleeping under the stars
Every night was spent in watery wildernesses with short afternoon stops in different villages, most of them hours by local bus from big towns and still quite unspoilt.
There was Datca, known for its delicious wine; and then Palamut Buku where we watched another World Cup match in a garden restaurant.
This time, alas, Turkey were beaten by Brazil. But I was very impressed with the way in which everyone behaved. No shouting, cursing, throwing beer cans - we knew we were not in Britain.
'It's not so surprising. We got much further than we expected. It's the first time Turkey has played in the World Cup for 47 years and we made the semi-final,' said Kutai, the elegant young diving instructor on board.
Kutai gave lessons to several of our party but I was lazy and preferred to read, swim and eat the excellent food and watch the gloriously unspoiled coast pass by.
Seven days went very fast, swimming, eating, swimming, walking, sleeping under the stars.
There is only one relatively long stretch of open water to cross to get to Bodrum. The day we wanted to cross it was pretty rough and so we stopped in Knidos, a tight little bay which provides a wonderful anchorage.
Back in the 4th century BC, Knidos thrived on offering strategic shelter in what was then one of the world's busiest shipping lanes.
Its attractions included a huge statue of a naked Aphrodite by Praxiteles. This was one of the earliest nudes and attracted thousands of ancient tourists to Knidos.
My guidebook declares that, 'After paying their respects to the image ... pilgrims were wont to observe the rites of love with one of the sacred prostitutes who worked in the temple precincts'. The Byzantine Christians put an end to all that and destroyed Aphrodite and her temple.
Museum of Turkish Life
I went up the street in this, the best carpet bazaar in Istanbul, to see if anything else might take my fancy. And would you believe it? There was quite a lot. So I never really saw anything else of Istanbul.
I tore myself away long enough to visit the disappointing carpet museum, full of enough ancient holey threads to make me doubt the authenticity of the 18th Century dating that the dealers use to categorise their dusty-looking rags.
And I wandered into the Museum of Turkish Life to get a look at a jolly interesting whole yurt, or nomad's tent, erected in a corner. But naturally in the end I went back to my bearded salesman and made him an offer he couldn't refuse - especially as it was almost exactly the price he'd asked for.
Alas for James Bond, he seemed to be far too busy to get any real enjoyment out of Istanbul. But at least his briefcase on the way home was only full of explosive shaving foam.
For myself, I wouldn't have had room for my Beretta. I staggered to the airport with my hand luggage stuffed with carpets, determined to get back to Istanbul as soon as possible. It's that sort of place.
Travel facts Details from Tapestry Holidays are available on 020 8235 7777 or visit www.tapestryholidays.com
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| | | | Underwater archaeology
That night, when the wind eased, we motored a few miles around the corner from Knidos into a beautiful bay with lush fields and a forbidding Alpine backdrop. The next morning we crossed the bay and arrived back in Bodrum.
Bodrum was one of the great ports of ancient times. Herodotus came from here in the 5th Century BC and in 334 BC Alexander's armies laid the city waste.
In the 15th Century the Knights of St John sailed across from Rhodes and built the wonderful Castle of St Peter, Bodrum's most splendid monument.
The town has been partly ruined by the cheap tourist invasion. On one side of the castle is a vast discotheque which blares hysterically loud music most summer nights and there is another on the opposite side of the harbour.
But the castle itself is a lovely structure, and there we met George Bass, a magnificent American who arrived here in the early Sixties when there were no tourists and his was only the second car.
George was one of the creators of underwater archaeology in one of the areas of the world richest in shipwrecks.
In the castle, he and Turkish officials created a marvellous museum to show all the ships and the artefacts, from the Bronze Age onwards, discovered on the sea bed during the past 40 years.
We were on one of Sea Fox's first voyages of the season. Betsy and Ali were planning to spend a few days in Bodrum fixing the little things that always go wrong on boats, improving this and modifying that.
There are a few weeks still unbooked - so, if you want to be generous to yourself and your family, spoil yourselves on Sea Fox. Just make sure you meet with Betsy.
TRAVEL DETAILS:
For details visit http://www.halikarnasyachts.com or http://www.interpacyachts.com. The Sea Fox costs £5,600 per week (for all six cabins). Individual cabins may be available on certain weeks, from around £930 a cabin. Food is an extra £17 per person per day.
Britannia offers charter flights to Dalaman from London Gatwick and regional airports. http://www.britanniadirect.com tel: 0800 000 747.
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| | Destination Guide : Turkey |
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| | | Hit the beach |  | Why go on holiday to Turkey?
It's a huge country and the variety of things to see is enormous - ranging from water sports to mountain trekking, archaeology to nightclubbing. It also has some of the best beaches in Europe. Turkey can easily keep you happy for weeks or even months.
How much does it cost?
Turkey has some of the best beaches in the Mediterranean and a two-week family holiday in Gumbet in July will cost from £1,100. A one-week family holiday to the scenic Turunc in May will cost £850. These prices are subject to change.
A city break to Istanbul for two nights at Christmas will cost from £350 per person. Flights-only go from £100. Hotels are from £15.
When should I go?
Turkey has several climatic regions but most tourists hit the Aegean or Mediterranean coasts, which have a typical Mediterranean climate. April to June and September to October are perfect months to visit these areas.
In winter, December to February, temperatures can drop to around 40F (4C). July and August temperatures can rise as high as 104F (40C).
* Feeling inspired? Book a break to Turkey.
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| | | Fabulous Topkapi jewels |  | What should I do when I'm there?
Visit Istanbul and take in 3,000 years of history - from 16th-century Topkapi Palace with its fabulous jewellery collection, to the ancient fishing villages on the Marmara shore.
Natural attractions such as the limestone waterfall at Pamukkale and the fairytale landscape of Cappadocia are also worth a visit. To relax by the beach try Cesme or Altinkum. For impressive scenery, head to eastern Anatolia.
Where can I meet the locals?
When in Turkey you can't really leave until you've tried a Turkish steam bath or hammam. Many are set up just for tourists now but if you want to meet local people, go to a neighbourhood bath (mahalli hammam). You'll find them in Istanbul and Ankara.
Where can I sample Turkey's history?
A must-see is Ephesus, the best-preserved classical city on the eastern Mediterranean. Among hundreds of other Greek and Roman sites are Aphrodisias, Priene and Miletus.
The great imperial mosques of Istanbul are worth checking out. The ruins of Hieropolis, the ancient cure centre founded around 190BC, are now part of a South Aegean national park.
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| | | Bustling bazaars | | Where's good for nightlife?
Istanbul has plenty of nightlife from bars, nightclubs and discos to excellent concerts, opera and ballet. Or try a night ferry cruise from Eminonu to Uskudar and see the city lights.
Marmaris is Turkey's biggest resort and things get lively on Bar Street. Bodrum also hums, with a giant open-air disco till dawn. Gumbet is another lively nightspot.
What's the food like?
The variety of dishes found in restaurants is not as great as some might like. Popular dishes include fried, grilled or poached fish, grilled meats and kebabs. Vegetarianism is an alien word.
Turkish sourdough bread is delicious. Beer is served everywhere. Tuborg makes light (beyaz) and dark (siyah) varieties. Turkish wine is good and cheap.
What should I buy?
The best place for bargains is Istanbul. You can get anything here, from leather goods to handmade cloth at the Selvi El Sanatlari. Or try haggling in the covered bazaar's maze of narrow streets. For more upmarket shopping try Ragip Gumuspala Caddesi.
The country is famous for its beautiful carpets and wherever you go you'll be spoilt for choice. Rub a wet handkerchief on the top of the carpet to see if the colour runs - it may be an old carpet touched up.
A cheaper gift to take home is sweet Turkish delight, or lokum as it's known locally. Leathergoods and inlaid wood are also good buys.
What is there for children to do?
Resort hotels have plenty of organised activities and watersports abound on the beaches. There are also several waterparks, including a large new one in Bodrum. Most kids will love the bazaars - just keep a close eye on them so they don't get lost.
Tourist office
Turkish Tourism and Information, 1st floor, 170-174 Piccadilly, London, W1V 9DD. Tel. 020 7629 7771. Brochure request line 09001 887755 (calls cost 60p a minute).
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| | Fact File : Turkey |
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| | | Turkey | | Did you know?
In the capital, Istanbul, the shop where Turkish delight was invented in the 18th century is still in business.
Language
Turkish.
Visas
You will need to buy a visa sticker on arrival in Turkey. At time of writing, visas cost £10 for up to three months.
Getting there
Most package holiday flights go into Dalaman or Bodrun airports. Trains also go to Istanbul from London Victoria.
Flying time from London
Three and a half hours.
Getting around
Buses are a good way of getting around the country. Car travel is inadvisable if you are a timid driver, but can get you to some great out-of-the-way places.
Currency
Turkish lira.
Costs
Prices vary greatly, but as a very rough guide: a bottle of beer in a bar £1.50; moderate restaurant meal £20 for two people; a bottle of wine in a restaurant £8-9, a bottle of wine from a supermarket £4-5, 24-exposure camera film £2.50; four-mile taxi ride £8-£15, litre of petrol 75p.
Weather
Turkey has several climatic regions but most tourists hit the Aegean or Mediterranean coasts. April to June and September to October are perfect months to visit these areas. Winter (December to February), drops to around 40F (4C), while July and August can hit 104F (40C).
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
00 90.
Voltage
220 volts but you'll need an adaptor for the mostly two round-prong plugs.
Opening hours
Major post offices open 8am-midnight Monday-Saturday, 9am-7pm Sunday. Banks, 8.30am-noon, then 1.30-5pm on weekdays. Shops, 9.30am-1pm, then 2-7pm (closed Sundays). Museums close on Mondays.
Health — before you go
No jabs required but hepatitis A, polio and typhoid are recommended. The UK has no reciprocal health arrangements with Turkey, so take out adequate health insurance.
Health — when you are there
Tap water is safe to drink as all towns have chlorinated supplies, but bottled may taste better. Avoid milk products, as electricity is expensive and some places will scrimp on fridge temperatures — though you should have no problems in major tourist areas.
Warnings
If you're offended by cigarette smoke you will have some unpleasant moments. This is the land of aromatic Turkish tobacco.
Emergency
Police, tel 155. British Consulate: Ingiliz Baskonsoloslugu, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 34, Tepebasi Beyoglu, Istanbul.
Customs
Turks view foreigners as cultured, educated and wealthy, so expect to be made to feel special. Women should cover heads and arms and not wear short skirts when visiting mosques. Men should not wear shorts in mosques.
Pets
The UK has no arrangements with Turkey regarding pets so normal quarantine rules apply.
Tipping
Some places automatically add 10%-15%, though a small tip is expected.
Tourist office
Turkish Tourism and Information, 1st floor, 170 -173 Piccadilly, London, W1V 9DD, tel 020 7629 7771. Brochure request line: 09001 887755 (calls cost 60p a minute).
Did you know?
Hisaronu sits at the base of a once-fortified hill. Its name means "in front of the fortress".
Language
Turkish.
Visas
UK nationals may enter Turkey after obtaining a multiple-entry sticker visa at the border or airport. You don't need to apply in advance, but at time of writing, you'll need £10 sterling to pay for it.
Getting there
Fly directly to Dalaman from the UK. Dalaman is the nearest airport.
Flying time from London
Four hours.
Getting around
Dolmuses — Turkish mini-buses — are cheap and run frequently to and from the town.
Currency
Turkish lira.
Costs
Prices vary greatly but as a rough guide, expect to pay: moderate restaurant meal £10 with wine; bottle of beer £1; 24-exposure camera film £2.50; four-mile taxi ride £6.
Weather
Summer 30-37C (86-97F), winter 15-21C (59-69F).
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
00 90 252.
Voltage
220V; plugs are two-pronged, so UK appliances will need an adapter.
Opening hours
Banks open from 8.30am-noon and from 1.30pm-5pm Monday to Friday. Shops open from 9am-noon and 2pm-7pm Monday to Saturday.
Health — before you go
No jabs are required but protection against hepatitis A, polio and typhoid is recommended. Make sure you have health insurance.
Health — when you are there
Don't drink tap water and take the usual precautions in the sun.
Warnings
On day trips to local ruins and sights, women wishing to avoid attracting unwanted attention may want to dress like the locals, keeping torso, legs and upper arms covered.
Emergency
The emergency number is 155 for police, 112 for an ambulance. The nearest British Consulate is in the Yesil Marmaris Travel Agency and Yacht Management building at Barbaros Caddesi 249, No 118 Marina, 48700 Marmaris. Tel 252 412 6486.
Customs
Unrelated men and women must not sit next to each other on public transport. Shaking your head from side to side means "I don't understand".
Pets
You can take animals into Turkey with the correct paperwork but they would have to go into quarantine on return to the UK.
Tipping
In the cheapest restaurants, tipping is not necessary. In more upmarket eateries a 10-15% charge is normally added to your bill, but this goes to the owner, so most people choose to leave another 5% for the waiting staff. In taxis, just round up the metered fare.
Tourist office
Turkish Tourist Office, 170-173 Piccadilly, 1st Floor, London, W1V 9DD.Tel 020 7355 4207
Did you know?
Altinkum means "golden sands". Herodotus, the Greek academic dubbed "Father of History", was born in nearby Bodrum around 485BC, when it was known as Halicarnassus.
Language
Turkish.
Visas
A 90-day tourist visa costs £10 and is obtainable on arrival in Turkey.
Getting there
Direct charter flights from the UK to Bodrum International Airport near Milas, then coach transfer to the resort if travelling with a package.
Flying time from London
About three and a half hours.
Getting around
Buses depart frequently from the resort for many places, near and far. Istanbul is 14 hours away and there are hourly services in summer, for example. Dolmuses (minibuses) connect Altinkum with bigger resorts along the Aegean coast and there's a ferry to nearby Bodrum. The main intercity bus station is at Didim.
Currency
Turkish lira.
Costs
These vary greatly, but as a rough guide: bottle of beer £1, glass of local beer 50p, bottle of local wine £2, moderate restaurant meal with wine £10, 24-exposure camera film £2.50, four-mile taxi ride £6.50.
Weather
Turkey can get scorching hot in July and August, when daytime temperatures regularly top 35C/95F. May and September are fresher, and winter months are generally wet and cool, with some days of blue sky. Temperatures in January and February range from 15-21C/59-69F.
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
(00 90) 252.
Voltage
220V, but take an adaptor for two round-prong plugs.
Opening hours
Banks: 8.30am-midday, 1.30pm-5pm, open daily in tourist areas. Shops: 9.30am – 7pm, although in tourist areas some close around midnight.
Health – before you go
No vaccinations are required but you may want to consider polio, hepatitis A and B and typhoid jabs as a precaution. Make sure you have health insurance.
Health – when you are there
Tap water is safe to drink in Altinkum but drink bottled water to be on the safe side. Avoid eating dishes that are not piping hot and milky desserts that are not prepared fresh.
Warnings
There are laws against insulting, defaming or making fun of the Turkish flag, the Turkish people and Ataturk, founder of the Turkish Republic. Theft and muggings are rare but take the usual safety precautions.
Emergency
Police 155, emergency services 112.
Customs
Smoking and enjoying nightlife are national pastimes in Turkey. Altinkum has a few bars, music venues and clubs but isn't as rowdy as Bodrum nearby. On the whole, foreigners are treated with respect and generosity.
Pets
Normal quarantine rules apply because Turkey is not part of the Pet Travel Scheme.
Tipping
Some restaurants add 10-15% to the bill. A small tip is expected otherwise.
Tourist office
Turkish Tourist Office, 170-17- Piccadilly, London, W1V 9DD. Tel 020 7629 7771. Brochures: 09001 887755 (60p/min).
Did you know?
In the capital, Istanbul, the shop where Turkish delight was invented in the 18th century is still in business.
Language
Turkish.
Visas
You will need to buy a visa sticker on arrival in Turkey. At time of writing, visas cost £10 for up to three months.
Getting there
Most package holiday flights go into Dalaman or Bodrun airports. Trains also go to Istanbul from London Victoria.
Flying time from London
Three and a half hours.
Getting around
Buses are a good way of getting around the country. Car travel is inadvisable if you are a timid driver, but can get you to some great out-of-the-way places.
Currency
Turkish lira.
Costs
Prices vary greatly, but as a very rough guide: a bottle of beer in a bar £1.50; moderate restaurant meal £20 for two people; a bottle of wine in a restaurant £8-9, a bottle of wine from a supermarket £4-5, 24-exposure camera film £2.50; four-mile taxi ride £8-£15, litre of petrol 75p.
Weather
Turkey has several climatic regions but most tourists hit the Aegean or Mediterranean coasts. April to June and September to October are perfect months to visit these areas. Winter (December to February), drops to around 40F (4C), while July and August can hit 104F (40C).
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
00 90.
Voltage
220 volts but you'll need an adaptor for the mostly two round-prong plugs.
Opening hours
Major post offices open 8am-midnight Monday-Saturday, 9am-7pm Sunday. Banks, 8.30am-noon, then 1.30-5pm on weekdays. Shops, 9.30am-1pm, then 2-7pm (closed Sundays). Museums close on Mondays.
Health — before you go
No jabs required but hepatitis A, polio and typhoid are recommended. The UK has no reciprocal health arrangements with Turkey, so take out adequate health insurance.
Health — when you are there
Tap water is safe to drink as all towns have chlorinated supplies, but bottled may taste better. Avoid milk products, as electricity is expensive and some places will scrimp on fridge temperatures — though you should have no problems in major tourist areas.
Warnings
If you're offended by cigarette smoke you will have some unpleasant moments. This is the land of aromatic Turkish tobacco.
Emergency
Police, tel 155. British Consulate: Ingiliz Baskonsoloslugu, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 34, Tepebasi Beyoglu, Istanbul.
Customs
Turks view foreigners as cultured, educated and wealthy, so expect to be made to feel special. Women should cover heads and arms and not wear short skirts when visiting mosques. Men should not wear shorts in mosques.
Pets
The UK has no arrangements with Turkey regarding pets so normal quarantine rules apply.
Tipping
Some places automatically add 10%-15%, though a small tip is expected.
Tourist office
Turkish Tourism and Information, 1st floor, 170 -173 Piccadilly, London, W1V 9DD, tel 020 7629 7771. Brochure request line: 09001 887755 (calls cost 60p a minute).
Did you know?
In the capital, Istanbul, the shop where Turkish delight was invented in the 18th century is still in business.
Language
Turkish.
Visas
You will need to buy a visa sticker on arrival in Turkey. At time of writing, visas cost £10 for up to three months.
Getting there
Flights to Antalya, though most package holiday flights go into Dalaman or Bodrun airports. Trains also go to Istanbul from London Victoria.
Flying time from London
Three and a half hours.
Getting around
Buses are a good way of getting around the country. Car travel is inadvisable if you are a timid driver, but can get you to some great out-of-the-way places.
Currency
Turkish lira.
Costs
Prices vary greatly, but as a very rough guide: a bottle of beer in a bar £1.50; moderate restaurant meal £20 for two people; a bottle of wine in a restaurant £8-9, a bottle of wine from a supermarket £4-5, 24-exposure camera film £2.50; four-mile taxi ride £8-£15, litre of petrol 75p.
Weather
Turkey has several climatic regions but most tourists hit the Aegean or Mediterranean coasts. April to June and September to October are perfect months to visit these areas. Winter (December to February), drops to around 40F (4C), while July and August can hit 104F (40C).
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
00 90.
Voltage
220 volts but you'll need an adaptor for the mostly two round-prong plugs.
Opening hours
Major post offices open 8am-midnight Monday-Saturday, 9am-7pm Sunday. Banks, 8.30am-noon, then 1.30-5pm on weekdays. Shops, 9.30am-1pm, then 2-7pm (closed Sundays). Museums close on Mondays.
Health — before you go
No jabs required but hepatitis A, polio and typhoid are recommended. The UK has no reciprocal health arrangements with Turkey, so take out adequate health insurance.
Health — when you are there
Tap water is safe to drink as all towns have chlorinated supplies, but bottled may taste better. Avoid milk products, as electricity is expensive and some places will scrimp on fridge temperatures — though you should have no problems in major tourist areas.
Warnings
If you're offended by cigarette smoke you will have some unpleasant moments. This is the land of aromatic Turkish tobacco.
Emergency
Police, tel 155. British Consulate: Ingiliz Baskonsoloslugu, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 34, Tepebasi Beyoglu, Istanbul.
Customs
Turks view foreigners as cultured, educated and wealthy, so expect to be made to feel special. Women should cover heads and arms and not wear short skirts when visiting mosques. Men should not wear shorts in mosques.
Pets
The UK has no arrangements with Turkey regarding pets so normal quarantine rules apply.
Tipping
Some places automatically add 10%-15%, though a small tip is expected.
Tourist office
Turkish Tourism and Information, 1st floor, 170 -173 Piccadilly, London, W1V 9DD, tel 020 7629 7771. Brochure request line: 09001 887755 (calls cost 60p a minute).
Did you know?
In Istanbul, the shop where Turkish delight was invented in the 18th century is still in business.
Language
Turkish.
Visas
You will need to buy a visa sticker on arrival in Turkey. At time of writing, visas cost £10 for up to three months.
Getting there
Flights to Istanbul's busy Ataturk airport. Most package holiday flights go into Dalaman or Bodrun airports. Trains also go to Istanbul from London Victoria.
Flying time from London
Three and a half hours.
Getting around
Buses are a good way of getting around the country. Car travel is inadvisable if you are a timid driver, but can get you to some great out-of-the-way places.
Currency
Turkish lira.
Costs
Prices vary greatly, but as a very rough guide: a bottle of beer in a bar £1.50; moderate restaurant meal £20 for two people; a bottle of wine in a restaurant £8-9, a bottle of wine from a supermarket £4-5, 24-exposure camera film £2.50; four-mile taxi ride £8-£15, litre of petrol 75p.
Weather
Turkey has several climatic regions but most tourists hit the Aegean or Mediterranean coasts. April to June and September to October are perfect months to visit these areas. Winter (December to February), drops to around 40F (4C), while July and August can hit 104F (40C).
Time difference
Two hours ahead of the UK.
International dialling code from the UK
00 90.
Voltage
220 volts but you'll need an adaptor for the mostly two round-prong plugs.
Opening hours
Major post offices open 8am-midnight Monday-Saturday, 9am-7pm Sunday. Banks, 8.30am-noon, then 1.30-5pm on weekdays. Shops, 9.30am-1pm, then 2-7pm (closed Sundays). Museums close on Mondays.
Health — before you go
No jabs required but hepatitis A, polio and typhoid are recommended. The UK has no reciprocal health arrangements with Turkey, so take out adequate health insurance.
Health — when you are there
Tap water is safe to drink as all towns have chlorinated supplies, but bottled may taste better. Avoid milk products, as electricity is expensive and some places will scrimp on fridge temperatures — though you should have no problems in major tourist areas.
Warnings
If you're offended by cigarette smoke you will have some unpleasant moments. This is the land of aromatic Turkish tobacco.
Emergency
Police, tel 155. British Consulate: Ingiliz Baskonsoloslugu, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 34, Tepebasi Beyoglu, Istanbul.
Customs
Turks view foreigners as cultured, educated and wealthy, so expect to be made to feel special. Women should cover heads and arms and not wear short skirts when visiting mosques. Men should not wear shorts in mosques.
Pets
The UK has no arrangements with Turkey regarding pets so normal quarantine rules apply.
Tipping
Some places automatically add 10%-15%, though a small tip is expected.
Tourist office
Turkish Tourism and Information, 1st floor, 170 -173 Piccadilly, London, W1V 9DD, tel 020 7629 7771. Brochure request line: 09001 887755 (calls cost 60p a minute).
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| | Available rental properties in Turkey |
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| |  | | Villa Kismet
A very special villa accommodating up to 10 people in exquisite comfort. Private swimming pool, near beach and town. 5 bedroom, 4 bath, gamesroom.
|  | | VILLA AYSUN, UZUMLU, NR FETHIYE
Welcome to paradise, a luxury villa with private pool in a rural and very peaceful idyll amongst olive trees, in the time-locked village of Uzumlu
|  | | VILLA KATIFE, CALIS BEACH, NR FETHIYE
Luxury villa with private pool close to an unspoilt part of Calis Beach where the mountains tumble into the clear waters of the Mediterranean Sea
|  | | VILLA SELIM
Villa Selim (Turkish for Wonderful Villa) - A Private Luxury Villa with Pool for Rent in an exclusive development in Gundogan, Bodrum. Telephone services provided.15% OFF in 2009!!!
|  | | VILLA BAHCE
Villa Bahce (Turkish for Garden Villa) is a new private luxury villa. Fully Air-Conditioned. Panaromic Views of the Aegean Sea & the Rabbit Island. Private Seaside Facilties.15% OFF in 2009!!!
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Holiday Rentals in Turkey |
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Why Rent With Us
