Travel Guides: All Countries / South America / Venezuela
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| | | | Up into The Lost World, but where was Raquel?
From the Mail on Sunday
There are only a few places on Earth where landscape and weather conspire to create the perfect mystery. Mount Roraima in south-eastern Venezuela is one of them. For days on end, the summit of this massive table mountain can be hidden by cloud. Towering cliffs 1,500ft high guard its secrets from the outside world.
One can't help but wonder what's up there on the plateau as big as the Isle of Arran - and neither could the scientists of Victorian England. Fresh from their studies of Darwin, they speculated that something from an earlier age might survive up in the swirling mists. Which is why, today, Roraima is more familiar to us as Arthur Conan Doyle's Lost World.
At a time when interest in dinosaurs is at a Spielberg-induced high, it is odd that few people realise Mount Roraima provided the inspiration for the granddaddy of all dinosaur epics. The Lost World was inspired by the ascent of Roraima in 1884 by two naturalists, Everard Im Thurn and Harry Perkins. They spent just two hours on the summit - enough to scotch rumours of a South American Jurassic Park, but not enough to quell Conan Doyle's imagination.
On the map of Venezuela, Roraima lies right on the country's south eastern borders with Brazil and Guyana. It's an area called the Grand Sabana - a remote, high plain dotted with pockets of rainforest. Dominating this desolate landscape are the tepuis - more than 100 flat-topped mountains, the remains of an ancient plateau.
These weirdly eroded pedestals litter the horizon. They are islands in the sky ringed by sheer cliffs and steep, forest-covered scree slopes. Gazing at them for the first time, I experienced something akin to deja vu. Had I seen this landscape before, perhaps in some primordial memory stored deep in my DNA? Either that or watching Raquel Welch in 'One Million Years BC'.
Perkins and Im Thurn took two months to climb Roraima. Today it's a little easier to reach from Caracas by either land or air. The group I travelled with drove for three days from the capital, crossing the Orinoco and passing into increasingly unpopulated country on the highway built in 1972.
At the small Indian settlement of San Francisco, high on the Grand Sabana, we transferred to four-wheel-drive trucks for an hour's bone-shaking ride to the hill village of Paraytepuy. This is where the trail to Roraima begins. We camped by the village soccer pitch and drank a last beer while shadows crept up Roraima's forested flanks, the setting sun turning its cliffs amber, then rose pink.
Travel guide: Venezuela
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| | | | Staring at the Wall
The 16-mile hike from the village to Roraima's giant cliffs took two days. Intense heat and steep gradients restricted our pace to a slow trudge. On the second afternoon we camped just two miles from the cliff - or the Wall as the locals call it.
From the shade of my tent, I stared at the sheer rock face. At this proximity, the mountain was overwhelming. It loomed over the campsite, clouds rolling off its summit like ocean breakers. My only comfort was a sighting of the Ledge: a line of trees running up across the cliff face at an angle of 30 degrees. This was the route taken by the expedition of 1884; it was ours, too.
Leaving camp the following morning with six Indian porters and a guide, we began the two-mile scramble up a steep slope through rainforest to the foot of the Wall. It took two hours - two hours of breathless, sweaty misery before the sound of a waterfall pierced the forest gloom. Abruptly there were no more trees ahead, only a cool, moss-covered rockface rising vertically. I craned my neck so far back it felt in danger of snapping.
From the Wall, the trail ran along a ledge so wide I had no sense of the enormous drop somewhere over to my left. Here climbing was easier - not so steep. Besides, I had been reinvigorated by the knowledge the worst was over. It was an hour later, after a final undignified scramble, that I clambered through the small canyon called the Door - the gateway to Roraima's summit.
Elation and relief overwhelmed me. Breathless from altitude, my legs reduced to jelly, I slumped on to the flattest boulder within staggering distance and took my first proper look at the Lost World. Unlike the tropical jungle imagined by Conan Doyle, Roraima's summit is a barren moonscape of black rock. Aeons of erosion by wind and rain have created a landscape like the dream of an insane sculptor. It's Henry Moore on acid, the surreal rock architecture of a Road Runner cartoon brought to life.
The scene is dominated by huge rock tors similar to those on Dartmoor. All around them are boulders scattered like a child's building bricks. Some balance perilously, others have been carved into arches and bridges, more stacked like cairns. Between the tors are flatter areas filled by rock pools and loosely anchored rafts of vegetation: insectivorous sundews and pitcher plants, stegolepis with its sharp leaves like a fan of green daggers.
Roraima's flora is tough: it has to be to survive days of scorching sun and nights cold enough to force visitors into their fleeces and thermals. Apart from birds and insects, the only animal to eke a living here is the tiny black Roraima toad.
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| | | | Camping on top of the world
With no soil to speak of and often extreme weather conditions, camping is a tricky business. From the Door, we hopped from rock to rock for 40 minutes to reach a 'hotel' - one of a number of protective rock overhangs beneath which tents can be pitched.
It's on the summit that an Indian guide becomes invaluable: they know the 'hotels' and the scuffed rocks marking a trail. It's easy to get lost in such an alien landscape where clouds drift through the valleys like moorland fogs. It can also be dangerous: the plateau is crisscrossed by deep ravines.
Having pitched camp, we ventured to the Wall - the edge of Roraima. Here, the world falls away in a sheer drop of Grand Canyon proportions. One by one, we crawled on our stomachs to the edge and peered over the heart-stopping precipice. It felt incredibly unsafe, as though the mountain were tipping you over. Three years ago, a German tourist fell to his death from the same spot while trying to take a photograph looking straight down.
The wind had dropped, there were no birds - just a hissing in my ears. I found a rock pool, stripped naked, squatted down and washed myself in its warm water. Around me was nothing but rocky wilderness. I must have looked like something out of the Stone Age.
That night as we gathered at the Wall to watch sunset, a cold wind sprang up behind us. In the next valley to our right, a huge plume of cloud curled off the summit like a waterfall, drifting lazily out into space. For me, the most memorable experience on Roraima was simply being alone - something that's quite easy bearing in mind there are only 20 or 30 people on the summit at any one time.
Roraima is without doubt a unique experience. While fitness and mobility limit those able to make the climb, it is possible to visit the summit by helicopter from the town of Santa Elena 50 miles to the south. But for the real Roraima experience, it's got to be on foot.
Two days after our ascent, we returned to the Door and began the long walk from the Lost World back to civilisation. And although it's only 20 miles, it is a long walk - at least 500 million years.
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| | Destination Guide : Venezuela |
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| | | Tropical paradise |  | Why go on holiday to Venezuela?
Venezuela is a country of dramatic contrasts, from the snow-capped peaks of the Andes in the west to the steamy Amazonian jungles in the south.
Then there's the hauntingly beautiful Gran Sabana plateau, with its strange flat-topped mountains, in the east, and mile upon mile of white-sand beaches fringed along the Caribbean coast.
South America's largest lake, Lake Maracaibo, and third-longest river, the Orinoco, are also to be found in this tropical paradise.
How much does it cost?
It is cheap once you're here but costs for packages vary quite considerably. As a guide, a 12-day tour taking in Caracas, the Orinoco delta, Gran Sabana, Angel Falls, the Andes and wildlife watching, including all meals, starts from £1,100. Flight-only return to Caracas from £500. A double room in a mid-range hotel from £12-£20 per night.
When should I go?
The dry season, December to April, is more pleasant but some sights, such as Angel Falls, are best seen in the wet season.
Venezuelans take their holidays and tend to travel at Christmas, Carnaval (several days prior to Ash Wednesday) and Holy Week, so avoid these periods or book well in advance to ensure accommodation.
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| | | Coral reefs and beaches |  | What should I do when I'm there?
Mountaineering, hill trekking and rock climbing; guides and equipment are available for hire in the Sierra Nevada de Merida, which is also the best place to go hang-gliding and paragliding.
There are beautiful beaches and snorkelling opportunities all along the Caribbean coast.
Tucacas is the best diving centre. Speleologists should check out Cueva del Gu charo, the most spectacular of Venezuela's many cave systems.
Tours up the Orinoco, Sipapo or Autana rivers and deep into the Venezuelan Amazon can be arranged from the hot but pleasant town of Puerto Ayacucho.
Where are the best beaches?
On the north-east coast you'll find long expanses of white sand lapped by turquoise waters and fringed with coconut palms. Isla Margarita, 25 miles from the mainland, is a favourite with Venezuelans and has good resort hotels and facilities.
The Los Roques archipelago is known for its coral reefs, whilst on the mainland coast Puerto La Cruz offers resort facilities as well as access to secluded islands and beaches.
Coro on the Caribbean coast is a cultured town worth a visit: the cobblestoned Calle Zamora is the most beautiful colonial street with spectacular old mansions. Other attractions include the cathedral and the Museo de Arte Coro.
Which cities are good to visit?
Caracas is a bustling metropolis of nearly 3.5 million that is fast, progressive and cosmopolitan.
Sights not to miss include: the Plaza Bolivar, with 17th-century cathedral; the Casa Natal de Bolivar, birthplace of Simon Bolivar; Santa Capilla, a 19th-century neo-Gothic church; and the Petares district, full of colonial character.
On the Lower Orinoco lies Ciudad Bolivar (formerly Angostura), a hot city which retains much colonial charm. Near Ciudad Bolivar is Canaima, a spectacular town on the Rio Carrao near a chain of seven magnificent waterfalls.
Friendly Merida nestles in the mountains 12km (7m) from the highest peak, Pico Bolivar.
Tell me about the natural wonders
Venezuela has 40 national parks. The Sierra Nevada de Merida is the best region for mountaineering, hill trekking and rock climbing - try a five-day trek to the peak of Roraima.
The tabletop mountains of the Gran Sabana, known as tepuis, have unique flora and fauna - as all the species evolved in isolation because of the shape of the mountains.
Venezuela is also home to a wide variety of exotic animals, including the jaguar, ocelot, tapir, armadillo, anteater and the longest snake in the world, the anaconda.
Salto Angel is the highest waterfall in the world at 979m (16 times the height of Niagara Falls) - but it's best to fly there across the jungle.
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| | | Party at carnaval | | Where's good for nightlife?
Carupano has the best carnaval (two days before Ash Wednesday) but carnaval is held across the country. Also see the Diablos Danzantes (dancing devils) in San Francisco de Yare during the Corpus Christi festival.
In Caracas nightlife is centred around the districts of Las Mercedes, El Rosal, La Floresta and La Castellana. Enjoy a beer at the Greenwich Pub, or catch some jazz at the Juan Sebastian Bar, one of the city's few authentic jazz venues.
The resort of Isla Margarita is known as a party-isle playground and offers the usual big resort facilities. Puerto La Cruz and Polamar offer the most discos after Caracas - expect to salsa and merengue.
What's the food like?
Snacks and dishes (referred to as comida criolla) consist mainly of pancakes, chicken, pork, beef, soups and stews. Travellers should look out for restaurants serving menu del dia, a cheap set meal of soup and a main course.
Local specialities include empanadas, deep-fried cornmeal turnovers with fillings of ground meat, cheese, beans or baby shark; and pabellon criollo, Venezuela's national dish which consists of shredded beef, rice, black beans, cheese and fried plantain.
What should I buy?
There are plenty of handicraft shops in most major cities - but try to buy from the artisans themselves, as it's cheaper.
Examples of common crafts are: chinchorro (hammock) of the Warao, a manta (long dress) of the Guajiro, or the baskets of the Yanomami.
For local music Caracas has the best selection. For gold and diamond jewellery go to El Callao - but don't expect bargain prices. Leather footware is a good buy everywhere in Venezuela.
What is there for children to do?
Venezuelans love children and they usually get cheaper tickets to transport, museums and attractions.
If your kids are seriously outdoorsy or in training to be explorers, then they'll love Venezuela - but remember they need protection from stinging flies, etc, in wilderness areas.
Beach resorts are mostly adult-orientated rather than the Portuguese-style family resorts with kiddies' clubs, etc.
Tourist office
Embassy of Venezuela, 1 Cromwell Road, London, SW7 28W. Tel. 020 7584 4206.
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| | Fact File : Venezuela |
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| | | Venezuela | | Did you know?
Venezuela was the inspiration for Conan Doyle's "The Lost World".
Language
Spanish is the official language, but more than 30 Amerindian languages still survive, predominantly belonging to the Arawak, Carib and Chibcha language groups.
Visas
At time of writing, no visa required if flying into Venezuela. If entering by land all foreigners need a visa. Get one before you travel.
Getting there
There are direct flights from the UK.
Flying time from London
Nine and a half hours
Getting around
Avensa is Venezuela's domestic airline and serves 24 cities. Buses are fast, efficient and comfortable, and fares are reasonable. There are no passenger trains in Venezuela but the capital Caracas has a modern, efficient and cheap metro.
Currency
Bolivar or 'Bs'. There are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, 1000, 2000 and 5000 notes in circulation. There are also some coins but they are nearly worthless and have virtually disappeared from the market.
Costs
Fairly cheap, although prices can jump in tourist centres. Expect to pay around: 15p for a litre of petrol, bottle of beer 40p, moderately priced meal £10, 24-exposure camera film £3, four-mile taxi ride £3.50.
Weather
Venezuela is close to the equator so temperatures vary little throughout the year. Dry season is December to April, the rest of the year is rainy season. Average temperatures 72-86F / 23-31 C.
Time difference
Four hours behind GMT
International dialling code from the UK
00 58
Voltage
110V, 60 Hz
Opening hours
8am-noon and 2pm-6pm Monday-Friday. In practice offices tend to open later and close earlier and opening hours may be only until 4pm. It is nearly impossible to arrange anything between noon and 2pm. Shops open 9am and close 6 or 7pm Monday -Saturday.
Health - Before you go
Recommended vaccinations are cholera, hepatitis and yellow fever. Malaria is present in Venezuela so anti-malarials are also advised. The UK has no reciprocal health agreements with Venezuela so make sure you have taken out adequate travel insurance.
Health - When you are there
Caribbean beaches and stunning mountain trails are not without their drawbacks, specifically mosquitoes and sand flies. They are vicious and worst at dusk. Take protection and make sure you always have a mosquito net at night, as even if you are taking anti-malarials, mosquitoes also spread dengue fever.
Warnings
Crime levels are high, especially in Caracas and other major cities - so take care at all times. Do not walk in the streets at night and take taxis only from regular taxi ranks. Avoid the border area with Colombia as terrorist and narcotic gangs are active, and there is a risk of kidnapping. Ring the Foreign Office on 020 7238 4503/3 or visit their website at http://www.fco.gov.uk for more information.
Emergency
Police national emergency, Tel. 103. British Embassy: Edificio Torre Las Mercedes (Piso 3) Avenida La Estancia, Chuao, Caracas 1061. Postal Address: Embajada Britanica, Apartado 1246 Caracas 1010-A. Tel. 00 58 2 993 41 11. British Consulate: Avenida 2G, #67-49 Sector La Lago, Urbanizacion Virginia (diagonal al Club Creole), Maracaibo. Tel. 00 58 61 915589/951355/925557.
Customs
Rum is very cheap and bought through small hatches in shop fronts in Caracas. It's drunk with lime and soda and packs a punch.
Pets
Venezuela is not part of the "Passports for Pets" scheme, so don't take your pets or they will have to go through quarantine on return to the UK.
Tipping
Most restaurants add a 10% tip onto your bill, so tipping is not necessary. Taxi drivers are not normally tipped.
Tourist office
Venezuelan Embassy, 1 Cromwell Road, London, SW7 28W, Tel. 020 7584 4206.
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