The Alpujarra
Casa la Regadera is a traditional 3 storey house situated in Válor, an attractive village in the eastern Alpujarra, just 90 minutes from Almería airport, 2 hours from Granada and around 3 hours from Málaga. The Mediterranean coast is around an hour away.
The Alpujarra is a unique enchanting area, lying between the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Mediterranean. The landscape is dotted with whitewashed villages offering a glimpse of rural life that has changed little even with the advent of tourism.
Village life is relaxed, although farming on the steep terraces is hard, and still carried out manually or with the use of mules and donkeys. You will find the local people to be friendly and welcoming, and the Alpujarra remains one of the few places in Spain where bars still serve free tapas with every alcoholic drink.
A large proportion of the Alpujarra lies within the National or Natural Park of the Sierra Nevada, and has a wealth of wildlife and more indigenous wild flowers than any other European region. The area is excellent for both winter and summer activities such as walking, mountain biking, skiing, trekking and horse riding. Renowned for the purity of its air (third cleanest in the world according to a recent WHO report) and great sunshine record (320 days a year), the area is a popular holiday retreat for Spanish families. Its altitude means that, even in July and August, temperatures feel comfortable, without the oppressive heat often found on the coast.
There have been many books written about the region over the years, in particular 'South from Granada' by Gerald Brenan, who lived in the village of Yegen in the 1920s. More recently, Chris Stewart's 'Driving over Lemons', 'Parrot in the Pepper Tree' and ‘The Almond Blossom Appreciation Society’ provide a fascinating portrayal of Alpujarran life (copies are in the house for your enjoyment).
Valor and the local area
Válor itself is a very pretty, peaceful village of some 1000 inhabitants, situated at 900 metres above sea level (nearly as high as Snowdon but much warmer!) It is a place of great historical importance since it was the birthplace of Aben Humaya, who led the Morisco uprising against the Christians in 1569, defeating 800 men (this event is celebrated every year in September, in the form of a mock Christians versus Moriscos battle, and is well worth seeing). There is a beautiful church, a good range of bars and restaurants, several shops plus a recently built outdoor pool with fabulous mountain views.
Shopping
Most things you are likely to need can be easily obtained in the village. Shop opening hours are usually from around 9 - 2, then again from 5 - 8 (may be different in winter).
The nearest shop is Cóviran - a small but well-stocked mini market just a 2 min walk up to the main road and left. There are several other shops spread throughout the village. In addition, various mobile delivery vans call regularly and stop just outside the house (selling fresh fish, fruit and veg, wine etc). The quality is excellent, and prices are very reasonable.
For a wider range of shops, Ugíjar is just 10 mins drive away, and, like Válor, has some great bars and restaurants. Both villages also have interesting fortnightly markets - for days, see signs as you enter village. There are two banks with 24 hour cash machines.
The nearest large town is Berja (40 mins) with a good range of shops, plus a big supermarket (Mercadona) with pasteurised milk! Better still - and a really pleasant town - is El Ejido.(50 mins) In the heart of the 'plasticulture' region, it doesn't look very promising as you approach, yet is well worth a visit, and has some great shops. For serious 'all under one roof' shopping, there are large indoor centres (centros or parques comerciales) at El Ejido (Copo), Roquetas de Mar (Gran Plaza), and Almería (Mediterráneo). These are open all day, usually from 10 - 10, Mon to Sat (and sometimes on Sundays in August and before Christmas). They also have leisure facilities such as multi screen cinemas and (at Gran Plaza) ten pin bowling.
Eating & Drinking
Válor has a surprising number of bars and restaurants for a small village. Most are located along the main road - El Perdiz, Aben Humaya, El Puente, La Pradera, El Azahara, Suizo, Suizo Terraza (summer only). You will find that tapas are served automatically (and free!) with alcoholic drinks. You never know what you are going to get, but it's usually good. You tend to get a different tapa with each round of drinks, so 2 or 3 beers can result in a very cheap and varied lunch.
Beers come in different sizes - una caña (just under half a pint), un tubo (just under a pint) or una jarra (a pitcher).
When ordering wine, just ask for una copa de vino blanco/tinto for a glass of white/red. Be careful about specifiying ‘dry’ (seco) – you are likely to get a glass of dry sherry, a popular accompaniment to tapas in Andalusia, but a bit of a struggle (maybe?) if you have ordered a whole bottle!
You can order at the bar or, at most places, take a seat on the terrace and wait to be served. Unlike in the UK, you don't pay when you order, but when you leave - even if you have had several rounds of drinks. Just ask for la cuenta, por favor.
Personal favourites for tapas include El Azahara and the Aben Humaya. Several of the bars also have restaurants - El Puente is excellent, although only open lunchtimes. If you just fancy a snack, but something larger than a tapa, the Suizo Terraza bar does good hamburgers, chips etc., and the Aben Humaya offer a wide range of raciones (larger sized portions of tapas),as well as a full restaurant menu.
Food is traditional Alpujarran, with a heavy emphasis on meat - wild boar, pheasant, partridge, rabbit, venison, goat as well as the more familiar pork, lamb and chicken. Vegetarians are not too well catered for, although the Aben Humaya does have some good vegetable dishes; however, the walls abound with pictures of animals - dead and alive - so it's not for the squeamish! If you order salads, watch out for bits of meat that tend to find their way into them - the concept of vegetarianism is not really too well understood in Spain. Good, fresh fish is plentiful, and features on most restaurant menus.
Places to visit
It is very easy to spend whole days (if not weeks!) just pottering around the village doing not very much. However, there are plenty of places within easy reach for day trips. Granada, with its famous Alhambra Palace (and much more besides) is about 2 hours away, and there are several other interesting towns and villages worth visiting. Guadix (1 hour), is a beautiful town with many historic buildings and lovely squares, and is particularly famous for its cave houses.
The Alpujarra is very popular with walkers, with routes of varying levels of difficulty. From Válor itself, there are three 'not too strenuous' marked walks, and more serious walkers will be pleased to know that the long distance footpath GR7 passes through the village. The area offers a whole range of trekking possibilities, including ascents of Spain's highest peaks (Mulhacén and Veleta). Just 45 minutes drive away lies Puerto de la Ragua, a mountain pass (2000 metres) which has developed into a
small outdoor activity centre. Cross country
skiing, mountain biking, winter and summer trekking, and dog sled rides can all be found here.
Beaches & Swimming
Although you wouldn't really choose the Alpujarra for a seaside holiday, there are plenty of beaches (all with Blue Flag) within easy reach. Not particularly well known to most British visitors, the Costa Tropical is hot, dry and sunny, and provides perfect conditions not just for sunbathing but for plants. Horticulture is big business, and the region provides winter fruit and vegetables for most of Europe! They achieve this by erecting large white plastic 'greenhouses'. Although this means we can buy a cucumber from Tescos in February, it doesn't add a lot to the natural beauty of the landscape (to get an idea of the scale of this industry, head towards the Campo de Dalías). Since it is hard to tell from the map which are likely to be the best beaches, we hope the following suggestions will be useful.
The nearest (about 50 mins) is at Adra - coarse sand, spacious, but with a backdrop of plastic greenhouses. A few minutes further away is Almerimar, a huge, modern resort, with ongoing development of villas, houses and apartments; it has an attractive marina (with some very impressive boats!) and 2 beaches (levante and poniente) The poniente (western) beach is more sheltered, and closer to the bars, restaurants and shops. The levante beach at the far end is quieter and more attractive, but more exposed and so the sea can be fairly rough. A little further along the coast is Roquetas de Mar (just over an hour), a well developed tourist resort with a very long, quiet beach, with good facilities (lifeguards, parasols and sunbeds, beach cafés, showers, toilets). However, the beach shelves steeply, and you are out of your depth after a few metres. Great for sunbathing though!
One of our favourites is Aguadulce (just over an hour), along from Roquetas. It's a much smaller resort and, although there is some new development, it is further inland, rather than along the seafront. The beach is gently shelving, sandy, with good facilities (lifeguards, several snack bars specialising in seafood, sunbeds, showers). There is an attractive promenade, marina, lots of bars and restaurants and a stunning backdrop of mountains (with not a greenhouse in sight!).
Just over an hour, but in the Málaga direction, is La Rábita, another very attractive resort with great bathing and good facilities, plenty of restaurants, bars etc. A few minutes further towards Malaga is La Mamola, another really pleasant, but smaller resort, with a few restaurants and bars.
Of course, if you just fancy a swim, then remember you don't even need to get in the car. The excellent village pool is a 10 minute walk from the house. Built in 2002, with a brand new sports and cultural complex under construction, it is open from approximately June to September (depending on the weather), from 12.00 to 8.00pm. Entrance costs around €2, and there is also a good bar serving drinks and snacks.
sleeping :
The village house comprises 2 bedrooms in total;
1 double, 1 twin and 1 cots, 1 of the bedrooms with en-suite facilities.
The property also has 1 single sofa bed located in the Extra single folding bed in twin bedroom, 1 double sofa bed located in the Ground floor lounge area.
This gives room for up to 5 people.
Bed linen and towels are provided for your use.
general :
The village house has 2 bathrooms and 3 WCs for your party's use.
entertainment :
The village house has
television dvd. The music system will play cds, radio.
eating & living :
There is room for 4 in the living room and 4 in the dining room. To prepare food you will find a cooker, an oven, a microwave, a fridge, a freezer, a kettle, a toaster. You will also find a washing machine, a clothes drier, an iron and ironing board. The owner has also provided cutlery, crockery, glassware, cooking utensils.
Smoking :
This is a non-smoking village house
Pets :
Pets are not welcome
Wheelchairs :
Not suitable for wheelchairs
on site :
The village house is right beside
walking, a restaurant, a food shop.
less then 15 minutes drive away :
Close to the village house you will find
swimming, historic sites, shopping areas.
less then 45 minutes drive away :
Within easy reach
of the village house you will find
climbing, mountain biking, horse riding, skiing/snowboarding, a museum.
extra information :
Cross country skiing & mountain biking at Puerto de la Ragua. Swimming pool in village (summer only)
Multi screen cinema 1 hour drive. Several small shops in village, larger ones 10 mins drive